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Achtane posted:Nah, it's the latter. And yep, it's the 2.4. Thanks for the leads, I haven't even gotten a chance to really check it out yet. There was a lot going on at the time and we didn't get it home 'til dark. It does seem pretty simple, and I especially like that there's a very minimal amount of previous owner electrical rigging going on under the hood. Pull a plug after trying to crank it. If it's wet, your distributor or coil took a poo poo (there's an optical pickup inside the distributor). If it's not wet, the ECU isn't firing the injectors for some reason (probably sensors) or the fuel pump took a poo poo (... always fun if the tank is full). Or some dipshit put diesel in it. They really are simple motors, and they'll run with nearly every sensor unplugged, so long as you have MAP and crank position it'll fire up.
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Mar 23, 2020 00:16
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STR posted:Pull a plug after trying to crank it. If it's wet, your distributor or coil took a poo poo (there's an optical pickup inside the distributor). If it's not wet, the ECU isn't firing the injectors for some reason (probably sensors) or the fuel pump took a poo poo (... always fun if the tank is full). Or some dipshit put diesel in it. Excellent, I'll give it a shot this week. Hey, I just discovered that it comes with a metal baseball bat behind the seat.
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Mar 23, 2020 00:45
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Achtane posted:Hey, I just discovered that it comes with a metal baseball bat behind the seat. That's for checking the tires on my pre-trip inspection officer.
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Mar 23, 2020 01:10
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 Pushed into my 20x20 carport since hey late march means snow right? Picked up a 350 Pontiac that has been rebuilt for it so don't need to mess with the engine mounts to try and get a SBC or LS to mount. Going take the engine and trans out next weekend so I can get better access to replace the brake master cylinder and booster and clean the engine bay.
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Mar 23, 2020 13:11
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I’ve been having some snapping/clunking sounds from the front end of my BRZ when the steering reaches the end of its travel (like while parallel parking). Since I’m stuck working from home I decided it would be a good time to swap in some newer sway bar end links I had, and replace the sway bar bushings as a first step. Everything came apart easily until I got to the bolts that connect the links to the sway bar. They have a design where you need to put a hex key in the center of the bolt to hold it still and use a wrench or pass-through socket to turn the nut.  About half way through removing each side the inner hex area stripped out. On one I was able to use some pliers to keep the bolt from spinning and was able to get the nut off, but the other is stuck, I can’t even tighten it again. Soaked it in PB Blaster and still nothing. Since I’m replacing it anyway I decided the cut the bolt off, however I only had one metal cutting blade for my jigsaw and that only made it about a quarter of the way through it. Now I gotta risk a trip to Lowe’s and pick up a hacksaw or something to finish it.
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Mar 23, 2020 20:15
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Just get skinny vise grips and clamp down on the back side of it, always works for me.
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Mar 23, 2020 20:23
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Ported my sub box to match the new driver:   (yeah, used an old piece of black PVC)  and finally installed the remote gain ("bass knob")    Sub sounded decent sealed - the manual claimed that the box was on the large end of the allowed size, but perfect for ported - now sounds decent-er. At least according to the
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Mar 23, 2020 20:37
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DrChu posted:I’ve been having some snapping/clunking sounds from the front end of my BRZ when the steering reaches the end of its travel (like while parallel parking). Since I’m stuck working from home I decided it would be a good time to swap in some newer sway bar end links I had, and replace the sway bar bushings as a first step. Skinny lock jaw pliers or a slim jaw adjustable wrench are the weapons of choice.
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Mar 23, 2020 21:56
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Full album here: I've never seen a shifter in that position.
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Mar 24, 2020 00:12
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Volguus posted:I've never seen a shifter in that position. Unusual to look at but great to drive. Very little movement of hand from wheel to shifter.
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Mar 24, 2020 00:25
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So I fought for a couple hours to get the seat out of the Hardbody 'cause the passenger door currently doesn't open, and managed to check the codes. Got a code 41: intake air temperature sensor. So I pulled the air filter housing and sure enough, one of the wires was broken. Ordered and replaced. But, still not starting up. I sprayed some carb cleaner into it and it did briefly get going. Checked the fuel pump fuse and relay, both seem to be working. I don't hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key, though, so next time I might take the bed off and see about replacing the pump. Unless I'm going in the wrong direction about this?
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Mar 24, 2020 20:12
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opengl128 posted:Just get skinny vise grips and clamp down on the back side of it, always works for me. Arishtat posted:Skinny lock jaw pliers or a slim jaw adjustable wrench are the weapons of choice. The hacksaw ended up being the cheaper option so I went for that, took only about 3 minutes to cut through the bolt. I was worried the vise grips or locking pliers would still slip on the back part, since that’s the area I tried with the pliers I had (using a clamp to keep them tight). Bushings are supposed to arrive tomorrow but it’s supposed to rain all day so I doubt I’ll be able to get this back together until Thursday.
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Mar 24, 2020 22:17
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Volguus posted:I've never seen a shifter in that position. It's just really happy to see you.
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Mar 25, 2020 03:43
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One advantage living in the rust belt and replacing sway bar links. It narrows your choice of tools down to one even before looking at them: a sawzall.
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Mar 25, 2020 14:51
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:One advantage living in the rust belt and replacing sway bar links. It narrows your choice of tools down to one even before looking at them: a sawzall. I went to replace the links and bushings once and every single bolt broke, so that sway bar just got removed entirely.
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Mar 25, 2020 16:01
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Achtane posted:So I fought for a couple hours to get the seat out of the Hardbody 'cause the passenger door currently doesn't open, and managed to check the codes. Got a code 41: intake air temperature sensor. So I pulled the air filter housing and sure enough, one of the wires was broken. Ordered and replaced. Go here, select Hardbody. They don't have a 93, but 94 should be close enough. You might try jumping the fuel pump relay (it may be clicking, but might not actually be completing the circuit) or swapping it with another relay. Otherwise, it's time to see if power is getting to the fuel pump. Also make sure power is on both sides of the fuse - it can LOOK okay, but may be cracked (test light is good for this, or a multimeter.. check both sides of the top of the fuse's metal parts immediately at key on/engine off). If you've tried swapping the fuse, look for corrosion in the socket. But yeah... you're probably pulling the bed to go further. Unless the tank is almost empty. But it's probably easier to just pull the bed unless some dick did a spray-in bedliner over the bolts. Remember it's only going to run the fuel pump for 3-5 seconds when you first turn the key on; it won't run it full time until you're trying to crank it or it detects an RPM signal (sounds like you know this already). The OEM pump is quiet enough that you'll have to be under the truck to hear it. You might have a friend try smacking the bottom of the fuel tank dead center with a mallet immediately after you turn on the key, and/or while trying to crank. If the pump is just seized or on a dead spot, that might free it up enough to get it to start. If that does get it running, grab a new fuel pump anyway, but you just ruled out everything else if that worked. Volguus posted:I've never seen a shifter in that position. Toyota did similar on the Matrix, though it's a little further from the wheel and less upright. You get used to it quick. There's a few 6 speed converted Honda Odesseys that have a similar position. 
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Mar 25, 2020 16:48
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Needed something to do so i painted the wheel covers on my xB. One can of graphite wheel paint and one can of matte clearcoat did the trick, looks a lot better than stock silver for $14.
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Mar 25, 2020 19:53
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What the hell??? I thought you had the cool Scion xB???
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Mar 25, 2020 19:56
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Rhyno posted:What the hell??? They're offering 0% at 84 months on Mustangs, do the needful.
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Mar 25, 2020 19:58
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Rhyno posted:What the hell??? Lol the first gen is too slow. These have the 2.4 with much better torque. I think it's cool  Plus this generation of xB saved my life, they are really safe cars. This one is a 2015, last year they made them. opengl128 posted:They're offering 0% at 84 months on Mustangs, do the needful. Nah, probably gonna get a Miata or Wrangler for my fun vehicle.
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Mar 25, 2020 20:04
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opengl128 posted:They're offering 0% at 84 months on Mustangs, do the needful. I know. I know.
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Mar 25, 2020 20:49
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opengl128 posted:They're offering 0% at 84 months on Mustangs, do the needful. What What
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Mar 25, 2020 22:48
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opengl128 posted:do the needful.
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Mar 25, 2020 23:17
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Hey goons, got a question regarding a parts vendor. I was looking to start doing some work on my old truck, and was googling around for parts, I found cjponyparts has a lot of the parts i'm looking for, mostly dashboard and door panel stuff to start easy with. I found they had pretty decent prices compared to carid and some others, but have a pretty low user rating via google, something like 1.5 star average. would you all recommend that retailer, or is there a better one for '73 ford f250 parts you are aware of? the truck, as of 22 years ago when i bought it! 
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Mar 26, 2020 00:40
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I use CJP as my primary source for my Focus stuff, have never had a problem ordering from them. Got my intake, exhaust hangers, couple other things, zero problems. 5/5 would recommend for ford stuff
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Mar 26, 2020 01:22
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Can't speak for cjp but my general impression of carid is "those jerks who SEO their way into my Google searches but do me no good" which is only about one step below Andy's Auto Sport, not really a good place to be.
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Mar 26, 2020 01:57
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ratchild13 posted:Hey goons, got a question regarding a parts vendor. I was looking to start doing some work on my old truck, and was googling around for parts, I found cjponyparts has a lot of the parts i'm looking for, mostly dashboard and door panel stuff to start easy with. I found they had pretty decent prices compared to carid and some others, but have a pretty low user rating via google, something like 1.5 star average. would you all recommend that retailer, or is there a better one for '73 ford f250 parts you are aware of? I've used them before, they're fine. Probably some bad reviews from boomer Mustang guys.
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Mar 26, 2020 02:08
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Excellent, thanks for the input!
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Mar 26, 2020 16:25
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    Mounted my baby turbo and started welding up my hotside
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Mar 26, 2020 19:38
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STR posted:Fuel pump stuffs Hey man, I really appreciate all the help so far. I double checked the fuel pump fuse and relay, and with the help of my dear wife, pulled the bed off. Power seems to be getting to the fuel pump, but I think it's toast. Fingers crossed that the new one will be working this weekend... While I was checking it out, I saw this:  That can't be good. I don't know exactly but that's the pressure relief valve, maybe? Either way, I ordered some new line. But, hopefully I'll be able to update on Saturday.
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Mar 26, 2020 20:46
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tehk posted:
Geez us
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Mar 26, 2020 20:50
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ratchild13 posted:would you all recommend that retailer, or is there a better one for '73 ford f250 parts you are aware of? I've no experience with cjp. LMCtruck will have a ton of stuff for that vintage Ford. They can be on the pricier side though they have hard to find items. tehk posted:
In Snail We Trust.
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Mar 26, 2020 21:31
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Tehk can you tell me more about that y-merge on the passenger side of the engine bay, it looks like its one piece and not two bends cut/welded together?
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Mar 26, 2020 21:39
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tehk posted:Mounted my baby turbo and started welding up my hotside Your posts always make me feel inadequate!
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Mar 26, 2020 21:52
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TWSS posted:Tehk can you tell me more about that y-merge on the passenger side of the engine bay, it looks like its one piece and not two bends cut/welded together? It’s cast stainless. CF8m(cast 316) or CG12(cast 309) I suspect since it only is slightly magnetic. Came with gusseting on the inside of the Y as well which is nice. Welded nicely with 309l filler and it will last a long time with amazing flow. 3” in dual 3” out. Few companies sell it, I think I got it from CXracing. Also if you want a sanitary y that goes twin 90 degree outs there are tons of them if you don’t want to make one. Speaking of cutting tubes I picked up one of these and it’s a game changer for cutting sanitary elbows 
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Mar 26, 2020 22:52
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Got a tune in the mail for my new Ecoboost F-150 and flashed it in with HPTuners. This is just a safe tune-up to do some data logging on, but holy hell. It is ridiculous. I logged a peak of 27 psi at 2300 rpm. Just silly amounts of torque. This thing is going to cost me money, I am already addicted.
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Mar 26, 2020 23:51
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wallaka posted:Got a tune in the mail for my new Ecoboost F-150 and flashed it in with HPTuners. This is just a safe tune-up to do some data logging on, but holy hell. It is ridiculous. I logged a peak of 27 psi at 2300 rpm. Just silly amounts of torque. 2.7 or 3.5? I’ve got a 93 octane tune for winter and an e30 tune for summer for the 2.3 Ecoboost in my RS and it’s a game changer. The 93 tune is great but the e30 tune turns it into a monster.
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Mar 27, 2020 01:20
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My 3.5l started doing weird stuff when the timing chain started to stretch, like hitting 20lbs of boost. It was hella fun for a short period, but then I got it fixed and things went back to normal. Makes me want headers and a tune for my 2019 Ecoboost F150 but I've got a 7 year warranty I don't want to gently caress up, so oh well...
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Mar 27, 2020 03:16
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Huge_Midget posted:2.7 or 3.5? I've got a 93 octane tune for winter and an e30 tune for summer for the 2.3 Ecoboost in my RS and it's a game changer. The 93 tune is great but the e30 tune turns it into a monster. 2014 3.5. I went with Brew City Boost and a 93 octane adaptive tune. We don't have really any options for ethanol in Alabama. I don''t have a warranty and want to see what I can do with bolt-ons, downpipe, intercooler, exhaust, etc. I've already specced out an exhaust upgrade path.I had a 2004 BMW M3 and can't stand the rasp. I want a middle exit exhaust like the old Lightnings but with no drone. My theories are OK, but are unproven.
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Mar 27, 2020 03:52
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cursedshitbox posted:I've no experience with cjp. LMCtruck will have a ton of stuff for that vintage Ford. They can be on the pricier side though they have hard to find items. Agreed with this. No experience with cjp, but I've used LMC and Macs in a pinch. If you can find actual Ford part numbers (I think Macs uses them in their catalog?) there's an outfit called Green Sales that has NOS ford parts going back at least to the 50s. Not any kind of reliable selection, but it's worth checking with them to see if they have what you need. Many of the reproductions from catalogs are of visibly inferior quality compared to NOS.
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Mar 27, 2020 04:29
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