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Pollyanna posted:Well, it wasn't a collision, as much as the bumper got caught on some ice. I guess insurance doesn't care. Collision is a catch all bucket for damage to your vehicle that isn’t covered under comprehensive. They’ll ask you why you didn’t report it but just say you didn’t think it was covered or you didn’t have coverage.
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Mar 26, 2020 01:35
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Colostomy Bag posted:Guess the problem I'm having to reconcile is if your battery was toast so is the calibration for throttle learning? Nah, the battery is new. The self-learning do-si-do doesn't always work. VVV as it turns out: no... you should be able to disconnect the battery without disturbing any engine settlings VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Mar 26, 2020 |
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Mar 26, 2020 02:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Nah, the battery is new. Oh sorry, guess I wasn't clear...not pointing you out. I was just wondering in my brain if a battery goes tits up does that mean a re-program. Guess I view it as not much different than disconnecting the connector for the average joe.
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Mar 26, 2020 17:06
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C-Bangin' it 
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Stupid question time. I've found myself in possession of a 1972 Plymouth Fury. It's beat to poo poo and the owner, who died a month ago, has all the weaponry to be a rolling mechanic's shop. I'm not a mechanic. What I am, though, is a guy trying to locate the bloody gas tank on this thing so I can take it to a gas station, fill her up, and maybe take her to a proper mechanic to get her street legal. Is there an owner's manual around that's not being held hostage on eBay?
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Mar 27, 2020 17:05
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Your Boy Fancy posted:Stupid question time. I have to assume you are looking for where to put gas into the car. Judging by an image of the gas tank I would guess dead center on the rear behind a flap.
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Mar 27, 2020 17:21
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StormDrain posted:I have to assume you are looking for where to put gas into the car. Judging by an image of the gas tank I would guess dead center on the rear behind a flap. You're right. I forgot. It's hiding behind the licence plate. Thank you friend.
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Mar 27, 2020 17:28
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Ah, the old days of filling up gas.
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Mar 27, 2020 18:01
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Your Boy Fancy posted:Stupid question time. Others have already pointed out the license plate filler thing, that was really common in this era and lasted in to the '90s on a few vehicles, but for future reference here's a collection of service manuals for Mopars of that era. They should contain everything you might possibly need to know http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109
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Mar 27, 2020 18:51
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Collision is a catch all bucket for damage to your vehicle that isn’t covered under comprehensive. Alright, I'm gonna do it. I bet my rates are gonna go up  E: Yeah no, they won't take it. Ah well. I'll save up for a fix once we're out of quarantine, even if it'll end up being expensive. Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Mar 27, 2020 |
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Mar 27, 2020 19:58
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Pollyanna posted:Alright, I'm gonna do it. I bet my rates are gonna go up Is this an agent or did you call up directly?
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Mar 27, 2020 20:08
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Directly.
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Mar 27, 2020 21:01
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My brother’s got a ‘98 Civic that won’t start. It cranks, it’s got spark, and the plugs are wet and smell like gas. It’s done this before, which we fixed by replacing all the cap, rotor, wires, etc. Anyway, I’m thinking check the timing, fuel pressure, and compression. Anything else I should check? If those all check out, is it worth replacing the ignition parts I mentioned above again?
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Mar 28, 2020 02:55
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Sure, replace that poo poo and lets us know if it works.
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Mar 28, 2020 15:16
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What does the tach do while cranking, if it has one? (DX won't have one, I think all other trims do except maybe CX?) If it's not twitching slightly while cranking, the ignitor took a poo poo. It's a common issue on 80s-early 00s Hondas. It'll get random spark, but not the right spark. It lives inside the distributor. Also, does it sound normal while cranking, or weird compared to before? It's possible the timing belt jumped or broke. Broke is unlikely since it has spark and fuel, but if it jumped, cam timing will be hilariously off. If it's only 1 tooth off, they usually don't bend valves, but they won't run. Learned that one the hard way when the tensioner didn't tension on my 95 and let it jump by 1 tooth.  (mechanic told me whoever did the timing belt job never pulled the pin to release the tensioner.. I did an angry downshift to pass someone that spun it to almost redline (3rd to 2nd around 50 mph), and it faceplanted).You can't get distributor timing far enough off to keep it from running on those unless you remove the distributor hold-down bolt. I'm going with ignitor, weak coil, or jumped timing. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Mar 28, 2020 |
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Mar 28, 2020 16:42
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Hah, was just going to ask to if it would be the ignitor. Man they had issues on those.
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Mar 28, 2020 17:31
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Yup. And always go OEM on those fuckers. If you think the OE ones didn't last long, try an aftermarket one 
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Mar 28, 2020 17:34
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STR posted:Yup. And always go OEM on those fuckers. If you think the OE ones didn't last long, try an aftermarket one They still running this disaster? I mean hell dealing with a 87 Civic or something but oil would leak into the distributor and basically kill it.
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Mar 28, 2020 17:46
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STR posted:Yup. And always go OEM on those fuckers. If you think the OE ones didn't last long, try an aftermarket one Hehe, yeah, I remembered we replaced that this summer with a potentially rather cheap one. I suggested getting one of those instead of the other parts for now.
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Mar 28, 2020 19:41
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I just got through replacing a window regulator in my 06 Focus. This is the second time I've had the door apart and the water barrier is real rough and torn in several places. How necessary is this? I can probably mash it back together in several places but it feels like a lost cause.
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Mar 28, 2020 21:01
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2003 Honda Accord, Green Started and ran fine yesterday, but cranked without starting once stopped at the store. No new engine codes, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, compression is good, spark plugs are showing normal color, not seeing or smelling fresh gas on either the plugs or compression tester, coil fuse is fine. I'm pretty positive there's a fueling problem, is there a way I can check further without pulling the rail and see if it's squirting?
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Mar 29, 2020 02:16
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2007 Tacoma TRD-OR, 4wd So I thought I needed a brake job but I’m not so sure now. Symptom is long pedal travel, everything else is normal. I took my wheels off to check everything before ordering parts and here’s what I found: Front pads have about 10mm of material left. I didn’t remove the rotors to find the spec thickness, but I estimate that there is less than 0.5 mm of wear on each surface. That’s for both sides, wear is even.  Rear shoes are 4-5 mm thick, drums are 254 mm ID with max of 256 mm.  Lines have been bled, no effect on pedal travel. Parking brake works pretty well, I know this because I forgot to undo it before taking the drums off and not was it a struggle till I realized what I’d done. Anyhow, all those measurements seem in spec. How do I adjust pedal travel to have braking begin near the top of the stroke?
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Mar 29, 2020 02:25
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You don’t, somethings hosed up. Bulging brake hose or bad master cylinder would be my guess.
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Mar 29, 2020 03:07
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What about adjusting the drums? Would that help? Honest question.
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Mar 29, 2020 03:23
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I should add that it’s not a sudden problem. I’ve had the truck for about 12k miles, and it’s always been a little long on brake pedal travel. But feedback is good, never had a problem actually stopping, ABS works great, never bottomed it out on the floor, etc. It feels a little longer lately though.
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Mar 29, 2020 04:13
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Flush the brake fluid (which will also bleed any air out). See if it improves. Be careful not to let the master cylinder run dry, getting the air out of the ABS pump can be a massive PITA if it does run dry. The pedal isn't sinking while you're sitting on it, is it? It's possible the rear drums are a little out of adjustment, but usually a few hard stops while backing up at ~10 mph will get them back into adjustment (if the auto adjusters aren't seized). Those rear shoes look a bit long in the tooth, but not totally worn out. The front pads look pretty much new.
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Mar 29, 2020 12:46
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STR posted:Flush the brake fluid (which will also bleed any air out). See if it improves. Be careful not to let the master cylinder run dry, getting the air out of the ABS pump can be a massive PITA if it does run dry. The pedal isn't sinking while you're sitting on it, is it? Came to post that you probably have air lurking in there, somewhere, and that the only solid success I've had clearing soft brakes/long travel, short grab was to pull a solid pint of fluid through all four wheels using a vacuum bleeder. STR posted:It's possible the rear drums are a little out of adjustment, but usually a few hard stops while backing up at ~10 mph will get them back into adjustment (if the auto adjusters aren't seized). HA. It'll be a first if they ain't. There are also manual adjusting daisy wheels on each side if you have a broad-bladed screwdriver or a brake spoon.
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Mar 29, 2020 14:40
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I'll add that I've had no luck in the past with vacuum bleeders (could never get a good seal on the bleeder) but Speed Bleeders have never done me wrong. They make it a brainless one person job.
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Mar 29, 2020 15:26
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100% agreed. I'm never going back to anything else if I have the choice, speed bleeders make it so much easier.
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Mar 29, 2020 15:46
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Right on, thanks y’all. No softness, no pedal sinking while I’m holding the brakes. Everything feels right except engagement is just way down the pedal throw. I’ve got a harbor freight vacuum that works ok on motorcycles but requires another person on cars. Maybe I’ll order some speed bleeders and install those. I’ll try a harder reverse reset and see if I can monkey with the rear adjusters first.
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Mar 29, 2020 16:54
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Ugh. Broke the wiring harness side of the TJ's rear downstream O2 sensor connector - the joys of dealing with plastic that's been heat cycled in the AZ desert for 18+ years. I recall there being some concerns about crimping O2 sensor wires - it's a four-wire heated sensor if that matters at all. Jeep decided to key each of the O2 plugs individually and I'm having no luck finding a new version of the factory connector, so I'm having a really hard time arguing against just using a generic 4-pin connector. Is there anything to worry about there or should I just fix the wiring the way they should have done it and put the connector in a serviceable location that isn't "top of the bellhousing"?
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Mar 29, 2020 23:03
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MikeyTsi posted:2003 Honda Accord, Green Welp definitely have pressure to the rail (and gas in the engine bay), I pulled the rail (it's surprisingly easy on this one), and it looks like the injectors aren't pulsing, so I think I've narrowed the issue down.
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Mar 29, 2020 23:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ugh. Broke the wiring harness side of the TJ's rear downstream O2 sensor connector - the joys of dealing with plastic that's been heat cycled in the AZ desert for 18+ years. If you can crimp correctly then crimping is the preferred way to connect wires. If you can find a connector that fits, use it. Keep the wires away from heat and abrasion. Make connector is well protected against water intrusion.
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Mar 29, 2020 23:58
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Yeah, just gonna lop the connector off and use DT connectors instead. I'm going to run it along the same path but I'm going to extend the wiring harness side so that the connector between the sensor and the Jeep is closer to the sensor, not top center on the transmission.
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Mar 30, 2020 00:15
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MikeyTsi posted:Welp definitely have pressure to the rail (and gas in the engine bay), I pulled the rail (it's surprisingly easy on this one), and it looks like the injectors aren't pulsing, so I think I've narrowed the issue down. WELP. My partner neglected to tell me that the key fob had come open while she was in the store, it looks like the immobilizer chip has gone rogue. That's a cost I didn't want to have to pay right now.
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Mar 30, 2020 00:24
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Oh. Welp. Ignore my post in your thread then, I assume you have the flashing green light of death. So my own super stupid question. My car has a cracked radiator. I've been topping it off every day with 50/50 premix, and leaving the cap loose. But I've noticed with the engine idling, the coolant kinda surges up and down with the cap off at idle, with an occasional bubble. It's a Subaru (2003 Outback 2.5, so the EJ251), so the first thing that pops to mind is head gaskets. But the oil looks like oil, there's no steam/coolant smelling stuff from the exhaust, and there's no leaks visible from the valve covers or heads (it looks like the engine has been out before, I'm guessing the head gaskets have been done at some point - the heads look pretty much new, same with the valve covers). I know it got low enough recently that I could hear the coolant rushing through the heater core when I started it (that was my first clue that something was amiss with the cooling system, a few weeks later I started getting visible steam from under the hood, found a large previously-patched crack on the top tank of the radiator). Is it possible it's cavitation from an air pocket? It's ONLY doing this once the thermostat is fully open. Up until it started pissing coolant/steaming from under the hood (and the steam is definitely coming from the radiator, it's visibly pissing out of the crack), I was adding maybe a cup of coolant every 2 months. It's kinda bouncing up and down like you're shaking a water toy or in a bathtub while on a cruise ship, for lack of a better way to put it. It drops down below the neck, pops back up to just short of overflowing, over and over, never actually overflows, doesn't seem to drop aside from what's leaking out from the crack. Maybe a better way to describe it to someone familiar with really windy areas is... the way your toilet acts when it's SUPER windy outside, the water starts bobbing up and down in the bowl from the gusts of wind hitting the vent. Related, how the gently caress do you burp a Subaru when you drain the cooling system? Changing the radiator tomorrow. I assumed that with the heads being down low, it'd probably self-burp pretty easily, but the occasional bubble and up/down of the coolant every second or so has me thinking otherwise. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Mar 30, 2020 |
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Mar 30, 2020 15:28
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STR posted:Related, how the gently caress do you burp a Subaru when you drain the cooling system? Changing the radiator tomorrow. I assumed that with the heads being down low, it'd probably self-burp pretty easily, but the occasional bubble and up/down of the coolant every second or so has me thinking otherwise. On non-turbo cars.... no idea 
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Mar 30, 2020 16:15
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I want to try welding my exhaust back together, do I need to remove lambda sensors from the catalyzer or is disconnecting the battery enough?
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Mar 30, 2020 22:48
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The last Subaru I worked on was an '06 WRX, and it wasn't engine issues, sooo...STR posted:So my own super stupid question. My car has a cracked radiator. I've been topping it off every day with 50/50 premix, and leaving the cap loose. But I've noticed with the engine idling, the coolant kinda surges up and down with the cap off at idle, with an occasional bubble... That sounds like the normal ebb & flow of a thermostatically-controlled cooling system? That's not operating under its normal pressure? STR posted:Related, how the gently caress do you burp a Subaru when you drain the cooling system? Changing the radiator tomorrow. I assumed that with the heads being down low, it'd probably self-burp pretty easily, but the occasional bubble and up/down of the coolant every second or so has me thinking otherwise. I turn the top hose upwards & fill it with coolant until it overflows from the radiator, then cap the radiator & keep filling until it overflows, then pivot the hose around & reconnect it. I also overfill the reservoir. If there's an air bleed nipple somewhere around the throttle body, burp it through. Also, run it up to temp with the heat on full.
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Mar 30, 2020 23:49
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2. Same part for the clutch as well as brakes, right? If I'm going to get some, might as well do all 4 wheels, the clutch, and the motorcycle. edit: nm, seems like the 2nd gen Tacomas are unicorns when it comes to bleeder size and there's a very limited selection of approved parts to use. And they have some kind of fancy booster of which I was unaware. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 31, 2020 |
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Mar 31, 2020 00:33
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Oovee posted:I want to try welding my exhaust back together, do I need to remove lambda sensors from the catalyzer or is disconnecting the battery enough? Is this something particularly fussy? Because even on german poo poo I'm all about clamp the ground close and crank up the welder. After doing neither of the things you mentioned.
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Mar 31, 2020 03:12
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