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Hubis posted:I've got to think renting masonry bits is a bit like borrowing a condom Even worse, because ya can't turn a drillbit inside out now can ya.
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Apr 3, 2020 03:49
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Soo.. My ex-wife liberated all my tools from me so I'm starting from scratch mostly. Tool step 1: Laser levels: Decent recommendations for a budget one? One of my upcoming projects is going to be building a wall to make a closet, and chalk lines suck, if the answer is a $200 kit I'll go chalk line but if there's decent enough stuff for ~100 I may pick one up instead of dealing with chalk lines. Will also be likely using this for other projects. Edit: Preferably something that wont' get here in 40 days from amazon tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Apr 3, 2020 |
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Apr 3, 2020 13:41
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tater_salad posted:Soo.. My ex-wife liberated all my tools from me so I'm starting from scratch mostly. I have a black and decker one that came free with a drill 15 years ago that sat in a box until last month when my wife was hanging some pictures. Unless you're looking for the fancier ones that place mutiple lines at once or shoot to multiple walls I don't think its a tool that quality really matters. If you cheap out your laser line will still be straight.
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Apr 3, 2020 17:36
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Fellow cheap laser level owner checking in: The line is definitely straight but I very much wish it was auto-leveling. It takes me more time to get it set up right then it would just make measurements and drop a chalk line or measure everything I'm doing individually.
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Apr 3, 2020 17:54
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I like my auto level Bosch a lot, it makes any adjustment easy. I probably wouldn't buy one without that feature and would end up doing what the poster above said
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Apr 3, 2020 20:03
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Recommend me a motor-less lawnmower, I have a lawn now that is just big enough I want to run over it a few times with some sharp blades on wheels. Googling seems to show me monstrosities with support wheels and structures that make them much larger (storage wise) than I really need for my small little patch. Ideally I want some powder coated steel or aluminum with some sick rear end welds and some sharp loving blades on some hard tough plastic or rubber tires that will last for a decade because it's not a cheap piece of poo poo.
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Apr 3, 2020 21:19
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If you are in the US, American Lawn Mower Company makes almost all the available manual reel mowers, except Fiskars. Watch out for the cut adjustment range, some of the models are made for golf fairway style grass and don't go very high at all. I have the scott's branded mower with the large wheels and it is good, though I haven't used other brands so I can't actually compare to anything. I have to go over grass twice to get it looking really nice, so about the same as trying to do a really nice job with a powered rotary mower. It has a hard time with debris like chunks of wood (stops the blades), but it cuts through tall grass or overgrown weeds well. If I was going to buy again, I might pick one with a motor for the reel, so it would keep going even when making slow turns or when you run into a wall or fence the end of a row. That's really my only complaint. It's not a big deal, but I have thought about adding a cheap battery drill to drive the blades e: I have this one there is also a 16" wide version. taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Apr 3, 2020 |
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Apr 3, 2020 21:26
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Thanks for the great info, I am in the US. My backyard (front is done by HOA/landscapers) is seriously probably 25ft by 60ft at best so adding any sort of motor for turns just really won't be worth the hassle for me. I have a battery powered trimmer and can do it all by hand but it's a bit annoying and I don't get as even of a cut of course. I'll probably end up going with what you linked but I'll check out Fiskars also.
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Apr 3, 2020 22:20
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just lmao if you're not using a scythe, your agrarian ancestors would be ashamed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE
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Apr 3, 2020 22:38
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no lie I literally thought about that video when I was out cutting it ~10 days ago with my trimmer, I'm just not loving cool enough to do it
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Apr 3, 2020 23:37
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I have the Scott’s branded reel mower too and it worked well. Eventually I gave up and started using a hand me down gas mower though.
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Apr 4, 2020 06:27
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canyoneer posted:just lmao if you're not using a scythe, your agrarian ancestors would be ashamed Channeling my inner Hank Hill: "Who would let their grass get that long anyway"?
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Apr 4, 2020 14:23
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I would think that grass that long has big fuckoff rocks hiding in it. That video would be more interesting if the brushcutter guy and the scythe guy had to use their bump feed / peen their blade respectively.
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Apr 4, 2020 16:52
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They need to do an appropriate test since scythes arent used for trimming around things and string trimmers aren't for cutting hay. So it's scythe vs a tractor with a 9 foot sickle bar
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Apr 4, 2020 19:17
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I've been using a 20v Black and Decker cordless drill for a few years, and its been adequate for just about everything, but then I was drilling 2" holes in a 2x4 and the magic smoke came out along with some magnet bits (brushes?) and its more or less dead. Couple of questions - I like what Milwaukee has to offer, but I can't decide if their compact brushless 18v is good enough, or if I should go full overkill and spend on the m18 Fuel line. The fuel is more than double the torque, but my main concern is that it doesn't blow up with heavy use. Any suggestions or recommendations? Should I be using a bimetal hole saw? Or will a 2" self-feeding bit, or a 2" forstner bit be more efficient? Or even a carbide hole saw just for wood?
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Apr 4, 2020 23:54
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I want like 2 or 3 or 5 of the Milwaukee M18 drills and I have no idea why since our old rear end Makita corded drill works just fine. I also want a recip saw and a jigsaw. And a circular saw. And a miter saw. And a band saw, although I don’t think Milwaukee makes a floor-standing one of those. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 00:56
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While working on my espalier trellis, I have made the extremely disturbing discovery that RULERS AND TAPE MEASURES DO NOT, IN FACT, ALL MEASURE THE SAME, and now I am questioning everything I have ever done  A bunch of mine differ by as much as 1/16” to 1/8” per foot, which may not sound like a lot, and in a lot of cases probably doesn’t matter too much, except that the thing I’m building is 38’ long and 10’ high, and at lengths like that, THOSE ERRORS ADD UP TO SOME FUCKERY Sooo apparently now I have to ask this thread to recommend me some accurate rulers, tape measures, yardsticks, etc and I kinda hate myself for asking that but again... 38 feet, wrong rulers, poo poo fucks up
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Apr 5, 2020 02:55
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I. M. Gei posted:While working on my espalier trellis, I have made the extremely disturbing discovery that RULERS AND TAPE MEASURES DO NOT, IN FACT, ALL MEASURE THE SAME, and now I am questioning everything I have ever done So tape measures have that little bit at the end that wiggles for a reason: https://www.ustape.com/blog/hidden-features-of-measuring-tape/ But that shouldn't be PER FOOT. I don't rightly know what an accurate tape measure would be I just know to use the same measuring tape for everything that I'm working on in case there's a difference between it and another tape.
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Apr 5, 2020 03:12
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I. M. Gei posted:While working on my espalier trellis, I have made the extremely disturbing discovery that RULERS AND TAPE MEASURES DO NOT, IN FACT, ALL MEASURE THE SAME, and now I am questioning everything I have ever done Is there any chance your rulers are shrink rules?
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Apr 5, 2020 05:04
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That is such a huge amount of deviation that I have to wonder what the hell kind of crappy ruler/tape measure you managed to find. Can you post a photo?
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Apr 5, 2020 05:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That is such a huge amount of deviation that I have to wonder what the hell kind of crappy ruler/tape measure you managed to find. Can you post a photo? Here’s what I’ve got: lovely Home Depot yardstick.  Two lovely tape measures.  Lufkin 100’ tape measure. This one is probably the most accurate tape measure I have, but it just measured a piece of wood as being 7’6” long when it was actually about 5/16” longer than that.  This is apparently the only really accurate measuring device I own. 
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Apr 5, 2020 05:53
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The trick is to find a ruler and tape measure that agree and only use those, throw the rest away as defective tools.
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Apr 5, 2020 09:27
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I. M. Gei posted:Here’s what I’ve got: You know wood shrinks seasonally?  Lufkin and Stanley tape measures and most all of, you know the retractable kind? They have steel blades and're pretty consistent.
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Apr 5, 2020 11:51
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If you can get away with measuring everything with the same item then its not such a big deal. Otherwise, I've found that the name brand poo poo is usually several oval office hairs more accurate than the brand x stuff. Like the really really small tape measure that I got for signing up for a credit card is fine for putting in my fishing tackle box, but is not fine for much else. The 15-25 dollar stanley or lufkin or (insert mega cool brand name) tape measures are more likely to have measurements that are accurate.
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Apr 5, 2020 15:08
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Tajima, Starrett, Lufkin and Stanley (in that order) are my preferences. But mostly because of the markings, I doubt their accuracy is different enough for carpentry, for woodworking stick to the first two. I use Stanley Fatmax for carpentry and cement work.
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Apr 5, 2020 17:29
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Checking a new Empire ruler I got at Home Depot. The marks appears to sync up with this internet ruler I use to check ruler accuracy... but only if I look at them with both eyes open. If I look at them with one eye closed it looks off a bit. Am I supposed to look at them with both eyes open, or with one closed? ...... I am developing a problem...... help me.
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Apr 6, 2020 00:40
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Get an inspection microscope and use both eyes
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Apr 6, 2020 01:37
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Count the number of atoms per foot, it's the only way to be sure.
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Apr 6, 2020 02:17
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What if his rule is made of primitive cubes but he's expecting body-centred? Best way is to shine a laser on whatever he's trying to measure and time how long it takes to bounce back. Do you own a vacuum pump?
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Apr 6, 2020 04:57
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I just ordered two Starrett rulers on Amazon and I hope that’s the last time I ever have to do that (it won’t be, I cannot un-know what I know now  )I also found out that Amazon sells rulers that cost over $5000 
I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 06:12
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Hello thread. If there are any rotary tool enthusiasts here, I have a question: In short, is it fair to say that my ancient cordless Dremel just isn't the right tool for cutting metal? I've tested multiple cutoff wheels, different speeds, different metals, and it just doesn't have the oomph to cut through, for example, wire shelving without bogging down. Nevermind cutting through a bolt or something more substantial. Should I bite the bullet and get a corded version, or is this operator error?
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Apr 6, 2020 06:30
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Wire shelving, if it's the rubber-coated type I'm thinking of, is a pain to cut with a rotary tool like that... but a set of bolt cutters will go through it easy.
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Apr 6, 2020 06:43
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Trabant posted:Hello thread. If there are any rotary tool enthusiasts here, I have a question: I have a corded Dremel and while it doesn't bog down, I have cut wire shelving and it's difficult and time consuming. A manual hacksaw is actually quicker, or especially a sawzall, which I use a lot more than my Dremel.
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Apr 6, 2020 06:56
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^ jinx! Yeah, the enamel-ish paint they use all over tends to gum things up, but it's a problem in general. I've never had success with a rotary tool and metal of any kind. It just binds and halts the wheel. Ended up taking a hacksaw to the shelving, although now I'm wishing I had a bolt cutter.
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Apr 6, 2020 06:57
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Angle grinder will go through that in fractions of a second.
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Apr 6, 2020 08:17
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Angle grinders will go through practically anything in fractions of a second. Just don't lose control of the tool...
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Apr 6, 2020 14:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Angle grinders will go through practically anything in fractions of a second. Just don't lose control of the tool... or use discount cuttoff wheels.. Also protect yourself.. plz use face protection.. which I hope you have already kuz if not.. just L O L if you try and get a face shield right now. Also any kind of breathing protection  I wont' be buildign my closet for awhile because I don't feel like breathing drywall dust while mudding it.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 15:17
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True, that would probably be the most versatile of all options. Alas, a grinder's not in the cards, as my only real workspace these days is my balcony. I could've used a grinder at my makerspace, but while at home I can't really use much beyond "doesn't make much noise or mess" kinds of tools. That's why the Dremel came out of retirement, only to disappoint yet again. Eh, it doesn't always disappoint. Just when metal is involved.
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Apr 6, 2020 15:23
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tater_salad posted:or use discount cuttoff wheels.. Have you seen wheels pop anywhere besides the collar and spin freely? I've always wondered but never had it happen but I've seen the collar break a lot and that isnt bad at all
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Apr 6, 2020 16:57
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| # ? May 20, 2024 00:31 |
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I. M. Gei posted:Checking a new Empire ruler I got at Home Depot. Rulers have thickness, so they are suspect to parallax. You should be looking normal to the ruler at each point you want to measure (probably with one eye if it's that critical.) So if you're measuring something 1 foot in length, you'd start with your head in front of the zero mark to align that, then move it over 1 foot to look at the other end and check where those markings are. Or just get a precision glass scale/linear encoder. Those ones aren't very accurate, only +- 3 microns, but I think that'll meet your accuracy requirements.
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Apr 6, 2020 17:10
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