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fknlo posted:Not exactly apples to apples, but my M3 does more than fine with winter tires. RWD with winter tires is stupidly fun in the snow too.
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Apr 3, 2020 21:05
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I mean, I get how more power means more of a handful in the winter in general, but this thing with people going "RWD in winter = KILLED BY DEATH" is a little silly.
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Apr 4, 2020 18:30
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Gorgar posted:I haven't driven a 997 without PASM but I would miss both it and sport chrono. The extra taut ride in sport+ is really fun, and I generally drive in sport+ with the PDK in manual all the time because of it, even in Chicago. Do the non-PASM cars have the same nannies? I should probably figure out how to store winter tires, but I live in a 400 square ft studio apartment. It hasn’t been an issue so far since I’ve been in my Saabaru with PS A/S3+ which do fine in inclement weather.
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Apr 4, 2020 18:44
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blk posted:Do the non-PASM cars have the same nannies? Sometimes you have to look out to the suburbs to find them, but there are tire shop that will store tires between seasons, or mobile services like this one https://mytireguys.com/. It's worth it to have proper performance tires in the summer.
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Apr 5, 2020 02:07
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blk posted:I should probably figure out how to store winter tires, but I live in a 400 square ft studio apartment. It hasn’t been an issue so far since I’ve been in my Saabaru with PS A/S3+ which do fine in inclement weather. I just pay a couple hundred a year to store them at the dealer. I have a garage and room for tires (still have the winter wheels from my previous 997, for no good reason), but no other car so no way to transport the tires back and forth.
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Apr 6, 2020 16:10
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I saw a 997.1 C2 with 20k miles for $30k on Craigslist last week - one owner, garaged all the time, probably at risk of IMS failure because it's been babied but whatever - just missed it. Thinking of seeing how close I can get with this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-Porsche-911-Carrera/254534295712?hash=item3b436d20a0:g:BJcAAOSwq2heg5D7 Do you think low 30s is a good price? I'm not sure most 911 owners are vulnerable to the economic shocks we're going through right now - if they're so over-leveraged that they need to sell the car, they probably couldn't afford to maintain it, either.
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Apr 6, 2020 23:25
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blk posted:I saw a 997.1 C2 with 20k miles for $30k on Craigslist last week - one owner, garaged all the time, probably at risk of IMS failure because it's been babied but whatever - just missed it. Looks like it has had its share of problems with the second owner who had it only 1500 miles and a couple years. https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=dvw_1&vin=wp0aa29955s716225
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Apr 7, 2020 00:15
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EVERYWHERE 
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blk posted:I saw a 997.1 C2 with 20k miles for $30k on Craigslist last week - one owner, garaged all the time, probably at risk of IMS failure because it's been babied but whatever - just missed it. Bog standard C2 with nothing going for it aside from low mileage, should be mid to high 20's at best I can't wait for the bottom to drop out of the used Porsche market.
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Apr 7, 2020 00:45
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Blue On Blue posted:I can't wait for the bottom to drop out of the used Porsche market.
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Apr 7, 2020 01:38
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Apr 7, 2020 16:13
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With stocks falling it is time to invest in static assets like old german cars. You fools buy now!
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Apr 7, 2020 18:38
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I've noticed there's a lot more cheap 987's being listed. Been wanting to pick up something for a dedicated track toy and if they keep falling a Cayman might be a good option, other than it still having some pricier consumables.
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Apr 7, 2020 19:05
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I was of the understanding that the motors in those didn't have the best reputation for staying alive on track, especially if you are on <=200tw tires and can drive.
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Apr 7, 2020 19:38
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With the weather here in NJ finally trending towards spring/summer, I pulled the 991.1 C4S out of hibernation. Trip report: 1) Adjusting from driving a 4runner all winter took a minute or two, and you notice the weirdest things. Why are the mirrors so tiny! Also, why is the mileage so good! 2) Sports Chrono with manual continues to be the best combination in Sport+ mode. Gotta pick the gear and work a bit, but don’t worry about rev-matching when you don’t have to 3) Still thinking a C4 may have been a better choice; the S is just too easy to get into trouble with in anything above second gear. It constantly feels like you have to hold back Only thing I need to do is order a module to save the Sport+ setting. It’s easy enough to punch the button, but if you forget and downshift assuming the car will rev-match... not the greatest experience. EDIT: Question: was the 991.1 C4 Cabrio not available as stick shift, or are they just rare? morothar fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 19:48
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blk posted:Do you think low 30s is a good price? I'm not sure most 911 owners are vulnerable to the economic shocks we're going through right now - if they're so over-leveraged that they need to sell the car, they probably couldn't afford to maintain it, either.
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Apr 7, 2020 20:02
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BlackMK4 posted:I was of the understanding that the motors in those didn't have the best reputation for staying alive on track, especially if you are on <=200tw tires and can drive. I'll have to read up on them more, I saw something about oiling issues on long high speed corners that some company was selling a fix for a while back, supposedly affected the 987/997 generation iirc. That and they cook their power steering but an inline cooler could fix that. I'm starting to feel like the old Miata Is Always The Answer might be true... And I don't think I'm in the "can drive" risk group yet 
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Apr 7, 2020 20:28
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slidebite posted:"Most" is a pretty broad brush, but a lot of people that buy cars like the 911 (or many other high end cars in general) absolutely cannot maintain them properly, especially once they are out of warranty. Another reason why so many are leased from new. I just expect that if I'm not buying from an enthusiast with a rep on the relevant forum(s) that the thing is gonna be in bad shape in regards to maintenance debt. I price all of them accordingly - basically just figure I'm going to need to do the xx,xxx or xxx,xxx mi service to catch up, change all fluids, etc. Unless somebody can produce maintenance records/receipts. And they almost never can. The Cayenne came with a stack of them. It was being maintained at the midtown Manhattan dealership its entire life, living in a parking garage and being driven to the hamptons or wherever on occasion based on the low mileage. I was willing to pay a premium for that, but was able to negotiate a deal that was actually fair on both sides. I would definitely have gone higher if necessary. While it's not always going to be possible to find a car like that at any given time, one that is being sold off due to a massive economic downturn is pretty much the LEAST likely place to expect it.
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Apr 7, 2020 20:32
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https://twitter.com/RoadandTrack/status/1247559568558821377?s=20
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Apr 7, 2020 21:55
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How many millions of dollars worth of cars has that dipshit written off at this point
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Apr 7, 2020 22:07
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Yall see this center-seating modded 911?: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2008-porsche-911-carrera-s-20/ assuming it doesn't do anything super sloppy with the steering, that'd be a hoot to drive. Motronic posted:We're up to a bulking charge. Let's see how this goes: How do you like this charger? My Delta only has charging against <80% charged and >80% charged. Do you think the extra phases/modes meaningfully indicate battery condition and/or reflect how far it is from fully charged?
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Apr 7, 2020 22:31
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kimbo305 posted:How do you like this charger? My Delta only has charging against <80% charged and >80% charged. I don't know that those LEDs inform me of anything terribly useful, but it brough two totally thrashed batteries back from the dead and did a great job on a pretty dead one in the "recondition" mode. So basically if recondition mode can fix even ONE battery that thing pays for itself. I've been moving it around to the mower and other poo poo in the barn throughout the winter and leavig it on in normal mode for a day or two just to keep things working and so far so good. I used the mower for the first time a couple days ago ind it just fired right up. I have the cheaper (1 amp I think?) version without a recondition mode mounted inside the engine bay of the bigger tractor and it was getting plugged in along with the block heater over the winter. All went well. E: and to address what was happening in that post: it did bring the cayenne main battery back to full voltage and, as expected, the problems went away. Until last week when I had to go to the grocery store after it sitting for 2 weeks. The truck just sits too much and draws a hell of a lot while sitting. I should probably get another one of the 1 amp ones and just plug the drat truck in when it sits in the garage. Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 22:35
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I've been using that charger with an Odyssey PC680 140cca battery in my S2000 for three years. The battery has gone completely flat more times than I can count and it has brought it back every time. e: kimbo305 posted:Yall see this center-seating modded 911?: lol 5 point harness, no roll bar, and lovely harness angle e2: and the waist belts going over the sides of the seat 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 22:42
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For what it’s worth Motronic my fire investigators told me they find trickle chargers as a frequent cause of fires; might want to make sure it’s sitting/hanging in a steel bucket or something if possible while connected and of course obligatory smoke alarm recco for the barn etc
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Apr 8, 2020 01:44
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Tremek posted:For what it’s worth Motronic my fire investigators told me they find trickle chargers as a frequent cause of fires; might want to make sure it’s sitting/hanging in a steel bucket or something if possible while connected and of course obligatory smoke alarm recco for the barn etc Dude....this is why I don't use Harbor Freight level poo poo. And have insurance. Remember I used to be a municipal fire marshal........
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Apr 8, 2020 01:58
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Fire don’t care about your credentials nor does it have the good manners to not roast your tractor while you’re on a plane PAL Turned out the power strip that roasted my poo poo was UL rated and everything. Welp, as they say
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Apr 8, 2020 02:02
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Tremek posted:Fire don’t care about your credentials nor does it have the good manners to not roast your tractor while you’re on a plane PAL Not sure what to do with that information other than what I'm doing now or just severing power and gas to the whole property.
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Apr 8, 2020 02:21
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slidebite posted:"Most" is a pretty broad brush, but a lot of people that buy cars like the 911 (or many other high end cars in general) absolutely cannot maintain them properly, especially once they are out of warranty. Another reason why so many are leased from new. My 986 I bought last year came with a 6 inch thick stack of dealer/specialist service history because I wasn't dropping even small money on a Porsche that I had no idea on how it had been maintained. Had everything down to oil changes and new tires. Can't imagine dropping 30 large on a 911 with zero history.
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Apr 8, 2020 13:05
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I've done the binder thing for the Porsches that I've owned. Whenever people see that they seem to appreciate it, but it seems kind of silly that people want/expect that when buying a 20k Porsche, but not a 20k Subaru. The auction sites/Rennlist classifieds definitely seem like they're filling up with more cars. I keep on thinking that I want to sell my Spyder to get an air cooled G50 as a fun weekend car, but the service/maintenance receipts definitely give me pause. The idea of an air cooled 911 is probably way better than paying $10k for an engine service.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:43
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My broke as gently caress cousin bought a BMW X5 for 3000 quid once. She then complained that it had very expensive repair bills and I had to explain to her that just because she got it cheap doesn’t mean it won’t have BMW sized repair bills. 20k Subaru is probably almost brand new, 20k Porsche is probably a bit long in the teeth and you want to know if it has at least been serviced.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:50
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Any good places to look besides all the Autotempest-searchable classifieds, Rennlist, and PCA? Also, just out of curiosity, but why do SCs trade for less than other classic 911s?
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Apr 13, 2020 02:28
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Pelican Parts forums
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Apr 13, 2020 03:07
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blk posted:Any good places to look besides all the Autotempest-searchable classifieds, Rennlist, and PCA? They're between the mid 70s and the mid 80s ones. Nothing mysterious about it, I think, they had the impact bumpers so not the classic 911 shape, and didn't have as much power as the later 3.2 Carreras. If you start seeing lots of 70s 911s going for more than the SCs, though, then I don't know. The 3.0 engine was really the best of that era for reliability as well. I like my SC and wouldn't trade it for the world, but at the time I bought it it was 17.5 and late 80s 3.2s with the G50 transmission were already up near 40. It feels like yesterday still but drat I've had that car seven years now.
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Apr 13, 2020 14:41
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Dave Inc. posted:They're between the mid 70s and the mid 80s ones. Nothing mysterious about it, I think, they had the impact bumpers so not the classic 911 shape, and didn't have as much power as the later 3.2 Carreras. If you start seeing lots of 70s 911s going for more than the SCs, though, then I don't know. The 3.0 engine was really the best of that era for reliability as well. Is there a general consensus on which air cooled 911 is the best bang/buck? It's tough for me to get a sense of whether a newer car with the G50 transmission is the way to go over something with the 915, and just how much of a PITA an air cooled engine is for upkeep.
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Apr 13, 2020 14:55
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Residency Evil posted:Is there a general consensus on which air cooled 911 is the best bang/buck? It's tough for me to get a sense of whether a newer car with the G50 transmission is the way to go over something with the 915, and just how much of a PITA an air cooled engine is for upkeep. The 3.0 and 3.2 have more or less the same issues with only a couple of failure points, none catastrophic, but all costly. Well the 3.0 has poor chain tensioners but those can be replaced for about $1k. I don't know a lot about the 2.7 other than that the magnesium block can fail, which is not great and a reason why lots try to stay away from them or you find later 3.0s in 73-77 models. For the 3.0 and 3.2 they'll all eventually need a rebuild for head stud failure, but that's a one time thing. General maintenance, though, is a god-damned breeze. Easiest car to take care of for regular things that I've ever owned*. The 3.0 is really about as quick as the 3.2 considering additional mass, and while the CIS can be a pain to learn it runs rather well if it's properly sorted and vacuum leak free. The 915 vs. the G50 I can't say. I understand the G50 feels much more like a modern transmission while the 915 was clearly designed in the 60s, but if the synchros are in good shape (after $3000 they will be) then it's capable and smooth if you're used to it; it requires patient and deliberate shifts, though, which is charming in a way. I wouldn't pay the premium for an '88 or '89 to get the G50 instead of the 915. I'm rambling. 81-83 SCs are great value, the early SCs were a little rougher, and the carreras are better but not that big a step above until 88/89. There are lots of buyers guides out there but in general at this point it's more about the condition of the individual car than its year. Going for a good '81 over an okay '86 would be fine, and if one has a documented engine/trans rebuild you're looking good. * Caveat on that. They require valve adjustments every 10k miles which is something of a chore and runs about $500 at a shop or $100 at home for the valve cover gasket kit.
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Apr 13, 2020 22:23
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Residency Evil posted:Is there a general consensus on which air cooled 911 is the best bang/buck? It's tough for me to get a sense of whether a newer car with the G50 transmission is the way to go over something with the 915, and just how much of a PITA an air cooled engine is for upkeep. Being air cooled isn’t particularly worse for upkeep and they’re pretty easy to work on. You tend to see more of the oil leaks so it’s harder to ignore, which is annoying. What’s a giant PITA is distributors and carburetors. Once you have fuel injection and electronic ignition, your life gets much better.
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Apr 14, 2020 07:00
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Dave Inc. posted:other than that the magnesium block can fail, which is not great and a reason why lots try to stay away from them Honest question: What was the rationale behind utilizing magnesium over aluminum? I know it requires special care during machining since it can, you know, catch on fire, so I'm trying to think of what the advantages are and I can't think of any off the top of my head.
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Apr 14, 2020 15:07
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I always thought it was for weight savings. Magnesium is lighter and just? as strong as aluminium.
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Apr 14, 2020 15:22
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Yeah magnesium is very light but I guess not as stable as other alloys. It was used a lot in old racecars before they cared about fire safety and drivers dying. Still used for wheels on some cars I think.
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Apr 14, 2020 15:39
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slidebite posted:Honest question: What was the rationale behind utilizing magnesium over aluminum? The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Porsche Thread: Why? Because race car! Also there are Reasons that somewhere at my dad's house there is a gigantic photo album full of just pictures of him working on his '74 911. One full rebuild due to fire, another gigantic teardown to find a ticking noise.
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Apr 14, 2020 16:51
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Early magnesium wheels had lots of problems with corrosion, which is one reason why they went away. Modern magnesium alloys don't have the same problems, supposedly. Mg alloys are up to 1/3 lighter than aluminium alloys but have lower strength in general. IIRC VW has been using Mg in their gearboxes of late, for example, where demands on temperature resistance and strength aren't as high.
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Apr 14, 2020 18:37
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