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Here is the A/C thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888018 And the world isn't gonna go backward and suddenly have Freon be more available than newer stuff The replacement in new cars is R-1234yf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene Mercedes claims it's flammable but it's used anyway.
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Apr 4, 2020 22:18
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DariusLikewise posted:I know the car used R134a originally but I had also read that Canada banned R134a awhile back and that R12a is what everyone is using now even for refills. I can’t actually go out and buy new R134a as far as I know Your mechanic probably still used R134a when they recharged your car. From what I can discern Canada didn’t outlaw R134a, they outlawed selling it in containers smaller than 22 pounds. They were probably trying to make it cost prohibitive for shade tree types to recharge their AC systems with since most cars only use a couple pounds. For a shop that works on automotive AC systems 22 pounds isn’t that much so it wouldn’t be a big deal for them to buy and use it in those quantities. What’s sold as R12A isn’t actually R12, it’s a hydrocarbon blend (propane/butane IIRC).
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Apr 4, 2020 22:50
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Charles posted:Here is the A/C thread Yep. So you got that in the car world, and when you need poo poo on house/HVAC world here is R-410A over R-22. Alphabet soup.
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Apr 4, 2020 23:18
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C-Bangin' it 
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zundfolge posted:Your mechanic probably still used R134a when they recharged your car. From what I can discern Canada didn’t outlaw R134a, they outlawed selling it in containers smaller than 22 pounds. They were probably trying to make it cost prohibitive for shade tree types to recharge their AC systems with since most cars only use a couple pounds. For a shop that works on automotive AC systems 22 pounds isn’t that much so it wouldn’t be a big deal for them to buy and use it in those quantities. They're trying to prevent exactly what the person you are responding to wants to do: not fix the system, just keep topping it off and dumping this poo poo in to the atmosphere.
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Apr 5, 2020 16:15
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After not driving for a week and a half to two weeks, my radio won't turn on. Battery is less than a year old, Interstate from Costco. When I first started the car up after a couple years (got wrecked and I took forever to fix it) the radio didn't turn on for a week or two until it automatically turned on randomly, if that makes a difference. I'd think it wouldn't be the fuse otherwise it wouldn't have come back on at all, could it be like a partially worn fuse that has higher resistance now than it should so it needs the battery to be at absolute max voltage before it gets current through?
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Apr 5, 2020 21:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:After not driving for a week and a half to two weeks, my radio won't turn on. Battery is less than a year old, Interstate from Costco. Since you didn't mention it, I assume the car started fine despite the radio not working? When it works, does everything function correctly and the output is normal volume? Everything else electrical in the car seem ok? It could be a loose connection, which includes the fuse terminals. Possibly a short somewhere that is overloading the power supply, does it ever turn off on its own once it works? If you take the head unit out, you can use a multimeter and test load to check out the input power at the connector. It could also be a problem with the headunit itself. Intermittent issues like that are possible with components on the edge of spec or if there is a broken solder joint that is connected only by mechanically touching.
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Apr 5, 2020 22:10
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Yeah, everything started fine without any hesitation. It doesn't turn off by itself at all, this is the first time it's been an issue in maybe 4 or 5 months, since it started working the first time. The radio is pretty old, I mean it's technically possible that the crash could have damaged something in it? It's aftermarket but it was in the car when I bought it used in 2009, I've been wanting to get one with an aux jack or bluetooth for years but it hasn't been a priority. I can try pulling it and using a multimeter, I can check fuses too. I've got plenty of time to work on it now that I'm working from home due to the pandemic. At least I will once I stop having to cover extra shifts due to people being sick/having family emergencies. My first priority is mechanical stuff, though, I'm doing the struts and air filter at least, I'll probably have a shop do the spark plugs because the plugs are a huge pain in the rear end on boxer engines. I've also got to do some work on my other car, though, spark plugs and air filter and replace some worn suspension crap.
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Apr 5, 2020 23:33
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If it's an aftermarket head unit my first guess would be a poorly done installation, and I really doubt you will need to go any further than that.
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Apr 6, 2020 15:16
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zundfolge posted:Your mechanic probably still used R134a when they recharged your car. From what I can discern Canada didn’t outlaw R134a, they outlawed selling it in containers smaller than 22 pounds. They were probably trying to make it cost prohibitive for shade tree types to recharge their AC systems with since most cars only use a couple pounds. For a shop that works on automotive AC systems 22 pounds isn’t that much so it wouldn’t be a big deal for them to buy and use it in those quantities. Yeah I've decided I'm not going to gently caress around with it and just take it to the mechanics
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Apr 6, 2020 15:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's an aftermarket head unit my first guess would be a poorly done installation, and I really doubt you will need to go any further than that. Check your PMs.
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Apr 6, 2020 16:51
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How hard is it to glue in a new side mirror? Mine popped off the backing (probably the factory glass from 1992) and my glass place got hit with the 'rona so they can't do it.
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Apr 6, 2020 18:56
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Not. Get a clamp or two to hold it in place while the glue dries.
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Apr 6, 2020 19:03
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I haven't driven my car for a few weeks due to our current global pandemic. I went out to start it earlier this morning and it wouldn't start. I think the battery's dead, but I just had it replaced about a year ago. Jumping it isn't going to magically save the battery from needing to be replaced again will it?
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Apr 7, 2020 15:13
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C-Euro posted:I haven't driven my car for a few weeks due to our current global pandemic. I went out to start it earlier this morning and it wouldn't start. I think the battery's dead, but I just had it replaced about a year ago. Jumping it isn't going to magically save the battery from needing to be replaced again will it? You might be alright if it's that new. Is it totally dead? Did you leave a light on?
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Apr 7, 2020 15:16
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Charles posted:You might be alright if it's that new. Is it totally dead? Did you leave a light on? I don't believe so, I just haven't started it in a month. When I turn the ignition the dashboard lights come on and I just hear a repeated clicking noise, so there's still some juice there. It did the same thing when I had to have the last battery replaced, but that one was a few years old at that point.
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Apr 7, 2020 15:22
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C-Euro posted:I don't believe so, I just haven't started it in a month. When I turn the ignition the dashboard lights come on and I just hear a repeated clicking noise, so there's still some juice there. It did the same thing when I had to have the last battery replaced, but that one was a few years old at that point. Charge it back up and see what happens.  Get a trickle charger to keep it topped up when you're not driving it.
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Apr 7, 2020 15:23
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C-Euro posted:I don't believe so, I just haven't started it in a month. When I turn the ignition the dashboard lights come on and I just hear a repeated clicking noise, so there's still some juice there. It did the same thing when I had to have the last battery replaced, but that one was a few years old at that point. It's probably OK, just jump it and go for a nice 30 or 45 minute drive. I've had issues the last 5 years or so with batteries dropping cells though. The Ford batteries would drop a cell and go down to 10.8V or so and then not start the car. Replacement was the only option at that point.
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Apr 7, 2020 15:33
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skipdogg posted:It's probably OK, just jump it and go for a nice 30 or 45 minute drive. I'm driving an Escape, I'd have to go back out and look but it may very well be a Ford battery because I had it replaced at the dealer last time lol. I've been meaning to get a new jumper/charge pack anyway after my last one got stolen so I'll start there.
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Apr 7, 2020 15:39
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Anecdotal evidence, but I've replaced 4 Ford batteries in the last 6 years from them dropping a cell. 2 of them under factory warranty. All Group 65 OEM Ford batteries. 2 replaced under warranty in Ford Explorers I've owned, my SHO needed one around year 4, and I just put a new one in our 2017 Explorer last summer. I live in a hotter climate so the summers can be rough on the batteries, I know they didn't last long in Phoenix either, but South Central TX isn't as hot as Phoenix.
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Apr 7, 2020 18:21
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I wouldn't expect one month of not driving to render a relatively new battery weak enough to not start, but my newest car is 2006 so doesn't come with an infotainment system or modem or anything. Edit: unless maybe it's freezing or super hot? Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 19:00
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Nah the weather's been fine here. More rain than I'd prefer but not too hot or cold. I definitely did have this "make sure you start your car every so often" revelation with my last car. Gonna keep trying to start it, but since I was going to get a new charger kit anyway do y'all have a model or brand you'd recommend? VV I'm pretty sure I want the jumper, but for my own curiosity when would I want the charger instead? C-Euro fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 21:21
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C-Euro posted:Nah the weather's been fine here. More rain than I'd prefer but not too hot or cold. I definitely did have this "make sure you start your car every so often" revelation with my last car. For jumping: https://smile.amazon.com/REDESIGNED-Antigravity-XP-3-Micro-Start/dp/B01E5T4L74/
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Apr 7, 2020 21:45
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C-Euro posted:Nah the weather's been fine here. More rain than I'd prefer but not too hot or cold. I definitely did have this "make sure you start your car every so often" revelation with my last car. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GODGN9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This one in particular has rescued two completely shot to hell batteries I'd left to totally discharge sitting in that goddamn rover rusting behind my barn.
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Apr 7, 2020 21:50
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I'm trying to add keyless entry to my 1997 Ford F250 HD and in the process broke the horn... It's a negatively switched relay system and it worked at the beginning of the day. Since then though, it doesn't want to work. I can manually bypass the relay at its socket to get the horn to sound and I can also ground the wire under the steering column to get it to make noise. I wish I knew where that drat wire went. It's either green/pink or green/orange. I mean yeah, I could splice it to ground, but I don't know what else I'd be screwing up. Does anyone know where that wire goes? Is it related to cruise control? Does pressing the horn turn off cruise control? edit: I traced it. That wire does indeed go to the "speed control servo/amplifier assembly" in the engine bay, located right on top of the cruise control unit. Now why would that thing not be connecting that wire to ground like it should be? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 23:46
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C-Euro posted:VV I'm pretty sure I want the jumper, but for my own curiosity when would I want the charger instead? The jumper is if your battery is dead and you need to start your car. The charger is to keep it from going dead in the first place (or to slowly recharge it if it does). The idea being you keep it hooked up to the charger if you're not going to be driving it for a while.
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Apr 7, 2020 23:57
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kid sinister posted:I'm trying to add keyless entry to my 1997 Ford F250 HD and in the process broke the horn... It's a negatively switched relay system and it worked at the beginning of the day. Since then though, it doesn't want to work. I can manually bypass the relay at its socket to get the horn to sound and I can also ground the wire under the steering column to get it to make noise. I wish I knew where that drat wire went. It's either green/pink or green/orange. I mean yeah, I could splice it to ground, but I don't know what else I'd be screwing up. Does anyone know where that wire goes? Check to make sure your truck has had the cruise control recall done! edit: check here: https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ edit 2: that might not go back far enough (it says 15 years). Check here instead https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/maintenance/recalls.html Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 00:55
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Charles posted:Check to make sure your truck has had the cruise control recall done! Hmmm. quote:Status:11 - RECALL INCOMPLETE How do I know if my truck has had this fixed?
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Apr 8, 2020 01:52
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kid sinister posted:Hmmm. The master cylinder has a plug in the front of it. (this is what turns off cruise control when you hit the brakes, and the brake fluid was migrating through the switch into the electronics) Stock is just some wires and a connector going into it. "Repaired" is a pony harness that plugs into the original wiring and then into the master cly switch with a fuse and a gigantic sticker hanging off the wires. E: there she is. Thank you google. 
Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 02:15
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Yeah basically a free repair or around $12 bucks and a few minutes to do it yourself. And yeah, it can cause your truck to catch on fire sitting in your garage. If recall not done, yank off the harness from the sensor. Won't have cruise control, but better than the alternative. e: This was a BIG recall.
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Apr 8, 2020 02:41
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kid sinister posted:Hmmm. My country has a database online of what's been fixed I double checked by calling a dealer, which I'd have needed to do anyway to schedule the replacement of an airbag
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Apr 8, 2020 03:35
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The center console in my 2012 Mazda 3 has 12V socket that is always "on" i.e. it still charges my devices even when the car is turned off. I want to put a little USB light in (something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCQSJGF/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_5-tJEb2VHVYDZ ) so I can see when I'm digging around in there. Would this being on 24/7 be a significant drain on the battery?
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Apr 8, 2020 04:25
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Motronic posted:The master cylinder has a plug in the front of it. (this is what turns off cruise control when you hit the brakes, and the brake fluid was migrating through the switch into the electronics) Well drat, my truck doesn't have that, just stock wiring harnesses. Guess it's going to a dealership soon! Still, that's a long way for brake fluid to migrate from there to the cruise control unit, down one wiring harness and up another. That's some impressive capillary action! Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah basically a free repair or around $12 bucks and a few minutes to do it yourself. Done. I'm not sure if cruise control even works now. I haven't driven it since the horn broke. It definitely won't work without the cruise control unit sitting beside me at my desk. And of course the circuit board inside is sealed beneath a layer of silicone, so it isn't serviceable. Time to go to Pick N Pull! Human Tornada posted:The center console in my 2012 Mazda 3 has 12V socket that is always "on" i.e. it still charges my devices even when the car is turned off. I want to put a little USB light in (something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCQSJGF/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_5-tJEb2VHVYDZ ) so I can see when I'm digging around in there. Would this being on 24/7 be a significant drain on the battery? LEDs have about the lowest draw there is. That being said, the common LEDs that are on while the engine is off are things like armed alarm LEDs. Even then, they only flash every few seconds. You will probably get weeks before it becomes a significant drain.
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Apr 8, 2020 16:30
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kid sinister posted:Well drat, my truck doesn't have that, just stock wiring harnesses. Guess it's going to a dealership soon! Still, that's a long way for brake fluid to migrate from there to the cruise control unit, down one wiring harness and up another. That's some impressive capillary action! Unplug it now. I'm serious. And it doesn't need to migrate any further than through the hydraulic side of the switch to the electrical side of the switch. That's where the fire starts. It burns the plastic on the switch and spreads from there. Before that recall I put out two house fires that were caused by this. In one of those cases is was a "room and contents" because the door from the garage to the living space was closed. In the other case the door was open and no one was home and they had no central station fire detection, so it cooked for a while before a neighbor noticed. We saved the basement.
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Apr 8, 2020 16:42
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Motronic posted:Unplug it now. I'm serious. I did, don't worry. I'm still worried about the horn though. My plates are due in a couple months. I don't think I'm going to pass safety inspection without a horn... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 17:05
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Got a 2007 Lexus LS460 that won't start this morning, and gives a "parking brake not available" message, along with flashing all sorts of warning lights. My wife hasn't really been driving the car that much recently, other than short trips to the store (but those do involve going on the freeway). I checked the voltage and the battery is at 11.5v, and the batter is only around 1.5 years old. Worth taking it out to put on my Optimate 5? I'd rather not have my wife get stuck somewhere due to a dead battery, but that doesn't seem THAT low to me.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:06
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Have you even tested the parking brake yet?
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Apr 8, 2020 17:09
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It's not a normal parking brake, it's some automatic button pressed one that is apparently not working. I can't tell because I can't start the car.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:16
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MomJeans420 posted:Got a 2007 Lexus LS460 that won't start this morning, and gives a "parking brake not available" message, along with flashing all sorts of warning lights. My wife hasn't really been driving the car that much recently, other than short trips to the store (but those do involve going on the freeway). I checked the voltage and the battery is at 11.5v, and the batter is only around 1.5 years old. Worth taking it out to put on my Optimate 5? I'd rather not have my wife get stuck somewhere due to a dead battery, but that doesn't seem THAT low to me.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:17
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Motronic posted:Unplug it now. I'm serious. Another brilliant Ford move.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:23
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MomJeans420 posted:It's not a normal parking brake, it's some automatic button pressed one that is apparently not working. I can't tell because I can't start the car. You can't roll the car and see if it engages or not? Also... kid sinister posted:I did, don't worry. I'm still worried about the horn though. My plates are due in a couple months. I don't think I'm going to pass safety inspection without a horn... It was the cruise control module! I swapped it with one from my local Pick N Pull. Stupid electronics.
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Apr 8, 2020 19:13
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