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jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


yeah White is very much its own beast. i was gonna see if it makes yellow a bit less painful

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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer

jesus WEP posted:

is there a technical/material reason why you shouldn’t thin your acrylic paint down with a similar-coloured ink? on the face of it this seems like a great idea - you get something that flows smoothly and would have superb coverage. but maybe the two media won’t mix that well? might end up with a weird streaky finish?

im gonna try it and see what happens.
I do it all the time, mostly with red and black.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer

R0ckfish posted:

Bastiladon done!



Crystal could have turned out better but it is okay.

I disagree, I think the crystal came out really well. I love the use of brown for the darker portion. Reminds me of big gems that get dropped in Shovel Knight or DuckTales



hooman
Oct 11, 2007

This guy seems legit.
Fun Shoe

TotalHell posted:

Personal opinion, maybe go another layer of highlight/edge highlighting up on the face in order to draw that focus and try keeping the pants as they are.

Ez8 posted:

Agreed. The face/head is where the eye is naturally drawn so it's a good idea to spend some time here giving it some additional detail and highlights.

Thanks team! I brought up the highlights on the head/mask which made me realise the chest was too bright, so I brought that down with some very thinned down gryphon sepia.

This is the result which I'm much happier with:

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang
The main problem you run into with thinning acrylics is that eventually the binder breaks down, you'll be able to thin further with inks than water I think, but there's still a limit.

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Can you thin with both acrylic medium and water to stretch that out? I'm not sure most people have acrylic medium around to add in but it's easy enough to get*


* or was in the Before Times.

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

jesus WEP posted:

is there a technical/material reason why you shouldn’t thin your acrylic paint down with a similar-coloured ink? on the face of it this seems like a great idea - you get something that flows smoothly and would have superb coverage. but maybe the two media won’t mix that well? might end up with a weird streaky finish?

im gonna try it and see what happens.

It's great for applications where you want to increase the flow of the paint without weakening the color at all, like drybrushing edge highlighting or freehanding. It makes the paint less transparent than thinning with water would, so it can be more difficult to blend with depending on what technique you're using. Inks are usually pretty glossy so depending on how much you use it may make the finish glossier than you want.

e: not sure why I wrote drybrushing there initially. Don't thin your paints with ink for drybrushing :v:

The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Apr 3, 2020

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

Ashcans posted:

Can you thin with both acrylic medium and water to stretch that out? I'm not sure most people have acrylic medium around to add in but it's easy enough to get*


* or was in the Before Times.

I believe so, yes. Obviously the medium will bulk the physical thickness of the layer up a bit but the pigment should thin further.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


ive found that a combination of flow improver and water lets you thin a bit further than just water. thinning just with flow improver made glazes super hard to control so a combo worked best for me

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"

Ashcans posted:

* or was in the Before Times.

Soon we're gonna have to go back to egg tempera for mini painting.

Ez8
Aug 5, 2004

hooman posted:



This is the result which I'm much happier with:


You've made a definite improvement for sure and I'd encourage you to keep going with the highlights. Have you considered pure white on the extreme edges of the skull?

Give it a try, if you don't like it you can always go back.

Someone once told me that you should apply highlights until you feel you've got enough, and then go at least two more shades lighter. It's good advice and you can always undo it.

Dienes
Nov 4, 2009

dee
doot doot dee
doot doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot


College Slice
My husband got me several of the Nolzur's young dragons, and I just finished the blue dragon.



Edit: For reference, this was my very first mini a bit less than 4 months ago.

Dienes fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Apr 3, 2020

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



WIP of this Khorne Daemon Prince - Or, if you ask my 2.75 y/o daughter - "Red Spiderman Angel".

I'm super pleased with how he is turning out. I tried to step a little outside of my current comfort zone of "slap some contrast paints on that poo poo and call it a day". I still need to finish the rocks he is standing on and the various bits and pieces hanging off his loincloth.

I really like the bronze and the skin. The skin is just a mix of red and black contrast paints, but it looks pretty dope - I'm unsure if I should give it some highlights to wrap it up, but I'm scared of loving it up. I feel like there's an equal chance of it looking even better if I try, and looking awful.

I dunno what to do with that weird segmented metal chain-whip-thing. Currently it is just a basecoat of gunmetal with a nuln oil wash - Which looks good, but is pretty bland.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


the red with black in the recesses looks really awesome, makes the red pop big time

The Jumpoff
May 4, 2011
Your dad's in the Russian Mafia, that's the jumpoff!
I haven't painted in a year, so i'm probably a bit rusty, but i really just wanted to share this Ork Nob i'm doing because i love him and i haven't even finished his basecoats.




Blood Angels Red contrast over Leadbelcher is magic or something.

ThoraxTheImpaler
Aug 13, 2014

CONDESCENDING
ASSHOLE

The Jumpoff posted:

Blood Angels Red contrast over Leadbelcher is magic or something.

Contrast paints over metallics has become my go to for new paint schemes because it basically is cheating. It consistently looks phenomenal without almost no actual effort.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Just using contrasts for minor details like gems or eye lenses is my go to cheat in many cases, it's so easy and doesn't look half bad either. Still need to test contrasts over the metallics more. Still have the Blackstone Fortress CSM's that are begging to be painted into Alpha Legion.

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

Cooked Auto posted:

Just using contrasts for minor details like gems or eye lenses is my go to cheat in many cases, it's so easy and doesn't look half bad either. Still need to test contrasts over the metallics more. Still have the Blackstone Fortress CSM's that are begging to be painted into Alpha Legion.

Akhelian Green over Leadbelcher seems to be the go-to for Alpha Legion, but I kinda like two or three coats of Aethermatic Blue better. It turns out less turquoise and more of a duller, dustier blue:



Contrast paints also make faces easy as hell.

I grabbed the Battletech starter box before everything shut down and have been working on these as a change of pace:

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
I've been wanting use the Contrast over metallic technique to do something for a long time now. One recipe I saw from WHTV was Blood Angels Red over Retributor Armor to get the pre-Heresy Thousand Sons look.

-

Today, I started putting together the Rhino I got like three months ago. Partway through getting the sides put together, it occurred to that it would make more sense to prime it while it was partially constructed in order to paint the interior. Should I do that? From what I can tell, it seems nigh-impossible to paint the inside completely if it's fully constructed, but I've not done sub-assembly painting before, and I worry about assembling the rest after painting, since I'm using plastic glue (I know I can file the paint off at the joints, but I still worry about the pieces fitting together after painting, or if filing will ruin the primer.)

I also don't know if sub-assembly is something you should do with rattlecan primer (seems like it's more suited to airbrushing).

The Jumpoff
May 4, 2011
Your dad's in the Russian Mafia, that's the jumpoff!

Max Wilco posted:



I also don't know if sub-assembly is something you should do with rattlecan primer (seems like it's more suited to airbrushing).

When i sub-assemble with spray primer, i just use painters tape on any important looking joins (or blue tack if it's small enough) so i know i won't have to file anything. I'd say if having the inside of a rhino painted is important, then taking some time to tape the joins shouldn't be much more work imo.

---

I finished that nob i was working on and he may be my favorite non-hq model now. I'm more just pleased i didn't forget literally everything after a year and change.




I think the only thing i wish i did better (in the 4 hours i spent on this model) is the muzzle burn on the skorcha bit, but i have literally no idea how people get that nice clean transition with a brush.

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019

That’s a great looking ork! Nice paint job.

Is the whole thing contrast?

The Jumpoff
May 4, 2011
Your dad's in the Russian Mafia, that's the jumpoff!

TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:

That’s a great looking ork! Nice paint job.

Is the whole thing contrast?

Thanks! I wish it was all contrast, the only contrast i use is on the shoulder and other red metal bits. Gold is Retributor armor, skin is basecoat AP Greenskin, strong tone wash, then drybrush Moot Green, and then i AP Green Tone wash the deeper skin areas and then highlight with AP Goblin Green. Leather is just AP Leather Brown with a strong tone wash and then re-highlighted. The gun metal is Leadbelcher and then AP Dry Rust drybrushed on. I forget how i did the burn on the skorcha.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


I got back into painting again, what with being stuck at home most of the time anyway. Got the old paints and stuff out of the closet, and all my Vallejo dropper bottles are still good, just need a drat good shake.

The biggest surprise was that my old hexagonal Citadel paints are still perfectly good! Those have got to be 20+ years old at this point?

All of my later screw top Citadel paints dried out ages ago and have been repurposed as handles with a bit of blutack, but the good old hexagonal bleached bone, rotting flesh, mithril silver and brazen bronze soldier on!

Still haven't painted anything really worth showing off yet this time around, but I'm getting there :)

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


yeah citadel have now fixed the issue where people come back to the hobby after some years and don't immediately have to go out and buy 30 new citadel paints

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?
Figure Painter Magazine has released their entire catalog for free.

https://www.facebook.com/FigurePainterMagazine/photos/a.352623928173169/2463716967063844/?type=3&__tn__=-R

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1J8DcOhPPY_bsV4DC3z8a1OJUJr5lnxih

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/278wlpr4kuhvi2l/AAACYLEs-PNSNSRf_hTQ6gGMa?dl=0

Dreadwroth2
Feb 28, 2019

by Cyrano4747

R0ckfish posted:

Bastiladon done!



Crystal could have turned out better but it is okay.

You could try doing a light wash to blend the transition maybe?

Ineptitude
Mar 2, 2010

Heed my words and become a master of the Heart (of Thorns).
We have this tradition here where children paint styrofoam eggs and attach pipecleaners for legs and felt for wings and beak and make chickens for easter.

Our initial attempt was using oil based paint but that turned into a big mess. The craft stores are all out of styrifoam eggs now so i gotta clean up the ones we have.

Can i use my corax white primer on the eggs? Is that safe for kids once dry? Can it crack and/or peel off since the eggs are a bit soft and flexible?

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!
Fairly sure rattle cans will melt polystyrene /Styrofoam. Maybe try painting them with pva glue first to seal it if that's all you have? Or papier mache them.

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



I can say from experience, that corax white will absolutely melt your styrofoam eggs :) But if you have any regular white acrylic paint left over from painting, say, a wall, you can just slap that on until it covers any previous attempts. It's what I did last easter :D

Ineptitude
Mar 2, 2010

Heed my words and become a master of the Heart (of Thorns).
Im not too surprised that the primer is not a good fit but i did not expect to hear that it MELTS styrofoam :prepop:

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Ineptitude posted:

Im not too surprised that the primer is not a good fit but i did not expect to hear that it MELTS styrofoam :prepop:

Its the aerosol propellant in the can, not the primer. Polystyrene does not react well to most propellant (I'm told the super dense insulation stuff is less of an issue, but expanded polystyrene definately doesnt like it). IIRC one of the craft terrain guys I follow on youtube (off the top of my head I couldn't tell you which one) swears you can get it to work with the right brand of spray paint and keeping the can a good distance away from the surface, but I wouldnt risk it myself on anything I gave a poo poo about. Sealing it with PVA glue or wall filler (Spackle I think is the american term?) may work or it may not.

Probably easiest to just do some nice thick coats of acrylic craft paint/house paint over them and move from there.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Just use brush-on gesso and eliminate the propellant from the equation. S'better for the environment, too.

Under 15
Jan 6, 2005

Mr. Helsbecter will you please stop shooting I am on the phone

SiKboy posted:

Its the aerosol propellant in the can, not the primer. Polystyrene does not react well to most propellant (I'm told the super dense insulation stuff is less of an issue, but expanded polystyrene definately doesnt like it). IIRC one of the craft terrain guys I follow on youtube (off the top of my head I couldn't tell you which one) swears you can get it to work with the right brand of spray paint and keeping the can a good distance away from the surface, but I wouldnt risk it myself on anything I gave a poo poo about. Sealing it with PVA glue or wall filler (Spackle I think is the american term?) may work or it may not.

Probably easiest to just do some nice thick coats of acrylic craft paint/house paint over them and move from there.

Yeah, the paint is full of volatile solvents. You'll have to spray far away so they evaporate before making contact. Probably a waste of your 20 dollar GW poo poo but if you have regular rustoleum or krylon go for it

Under 15 fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 6, 2020

Paddyo
Aug 3, 2007
Does anyone know of a good way to trim decals around model details and contours after they have already been applied? I'm trying to add some Forge World transfers around the little headlight depressions on the chest of a Leviathan dreadnaught, and would appreciate some advice before I ruin expensive decals. It seems like they would just tear if I tried to cut them with an exacto knife after they dry...

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Use Microsol and Microset

Two Headed Calf
Feb 22, 2005

Better than One
Im not sure what to do on the runes on the wings here - I'm thinking either light blue or bright green - suggestions?

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free
Quality is a bit poo poo because imgur is garbage and i was just fuckin around, but my little spinner finally shipped from china a week and a bit ago, and turned up yesterday!

https://i.imgur.com/RooIZlU.mp4

Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



Two Headed Calf posted:

Im not sure what to do on the runes on the wings here - I'm thinking either light blue or bright green - suggestions?



I think a pale blue that goes to a glowing white in the center would look pretty rad and not look out of place if you're aiming for a magical look. Green could work too but you've got kind of a subdued look right now and that would probably take it into a more vibrant rainbow-ish direction.

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Happy quarantine y'all! I painted some battletech minis:








Wanted to try something a little different and these are colors i landed on!

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Brock Samsonite
Feb 3, 2010

Reality becomes illusory and observer-oriented when you study general relativity. Or Buddhism. Or get drafted.

Hixson posted:

Happy quarantine y'all! I painted some battletech minis:

Wanted to try something a little different and these are colors i landed on!

Goddamnit Hixon not everything has to be Night Lords!
(...beautiful job though)

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