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got some chores tonight posted:Any suggestions? Crucial P1 is a QLC drive. They're fine for normal games and desktop apps but need a little bit of precaution for knowing what you're getting. QLC drives get slower as they get full, because they need unused space for their SLC cache (any time the drive is forced to write to actual QLC the speeds drop to HDD-level performance). Personally I'd rather have a good TLC sata drive like a WD Blue or MX500 than a QLC drive as my main system storage option. They don't need any care & attention, and while they're not as fast as a QLC NVMe drive at its fastest, they're much faster than a QLC drive at its slowest. Sata SSDs have little performance difference for games at the moment. All the usual suspects for cheap-but-good NVMe drives seem to be pretty sold out at the 1TB size right now, unless you live near a microcenter. The Adata SX8200 Pro and the HP EX950 are both available at $150, so a fair jump over your $110.
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Apr 8, 2020 04:27
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I didn't get a response to a previous post, but is there anything about this build I should change to make it better for Twitch streaming/video editing? I'd be willing to spend another $200 if it's worth it.MikeC posted:Flex 1080p at 100+ FPS or 1440p at 60+ FPS
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Apr 8, 2020 04:44
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Does anyone have a take on MSI Tomahawk Max vs. ASUS ROG Strix B450-F ? The extra m.2 slot and different sound chip are intriguing.
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Apr 8, 2020 06:00
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kingcobweb posted:I didn't get a response to a previous post, but is there anything about this build I should change to make it better for Twitch streaming/video editing? I'd be willing to spend another $200 if it's worth it. I'd do at least two things: 1. Get 32 GB of RAM for video editing 2. Go with an Nvidia card to avoid AMD driver headaches and use the new Turing NVENC encoder for Twitch You can also squeeze in a 3700X with your extra budget, which would help with both: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($298.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($152.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB SC BLACK GAMING Video Card ($383.98 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Best Buy) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1230.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-08 01:24 EDT-0400 There's a USB-C port on the front of this case that there is no header for on the Tomahawk, but you could add it through a PCIe card later or get the Phanteks P300A Mesh as an alternative: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/crqBD3/phanteks-eclipse-p300a-mesh-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec300atg_bk01 Demostrs fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 06:27
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skooma512 posted:Does anyone have a take on MSI Tomahawk Max vs. ASUS ROG Strix B450-F ? The extra m.2 slot and different sound chip are intriguing. It's not bad, but it's more expensive and will need more airflow on the VRM if you overclock. The second M.2 slot also shares bandwidth with the GPU slot. That's not an issue for any current card outside the 2080 Ti (which only loses ~3% performance), but if you're planning on keeping the board for a long time you might take a performance hit after a card upgrade or two. If you're paying $130 for a B450, I'd consider just paying another $12 for an Asus Prime X570-P. Demostrs posted:2. Go with an Nvidia card to avoid AMD driver headaches and use the new Turing NVENC encoder for Twitch Besides drivers and NVENC, the newest version of DLSS upscaling offers a pretty significant performance boost for a mostly-unnoticeable quality hit. It has to be explicitly supported by games, but integration is also much easier than previous iterations so there are a lot of games that are adding support. Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 07:55
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got some chores tonight posted:PCPartPicker Part List You might want to spend a bit extra if you can for a 5700 xt for 1440p. Though you can apparently flash the bios of a 5700 with the xt bios and get almost as good performance out of it if you're brave enough.
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Apr 8, 2020 08:15
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Hi all, building my first PC in 15 years so while I've read the guide I do need some help on knowing what's worth it or not. What country are you in? Canada What are you using the system for? Gaming, specifically want to be able to play some milsim FPS like Tarkov, Squad and ArmA, and then other mid tier graphics games like MB2 Bannerlord, Civ, Rome total war 2, CK3 when it's out. The highest tier game, If possible, I'd like to be able to play RDR2 on settings comparable to the PS3 version (i.e. I don't need 4K). What's your budget? For everything (monitor, mice, keyboards, headset incl) I'm looking at $1000 - 1300 USD (or $1500 - $1700 CAD). Ideally would like to keep it around $1,000, +/- $200. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? N/A If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Not sure yet. Debating whether I'd like to invest a bit more on my monitor since it'll stick around longer than other parts, so I'm currently debating if I want to go up to a 27in - 30in 1440p / 144ghz+ TN monitor but then am worried about blowing my budget. Any advice here appreciated. Oysters Autobio fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 13:47
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Klyith posted:Crucial P1 is a QLC drive. Thanks for the heads up. I was sure there was something I was missing, but couldn't figure it out by myself. Ebola Dog posted:You might want to spend a bit extra if you can for a 5700 xt for 1440p. Though you can apparently flash the bios of a 5700 with the xt bios and get almost as good performance out of it if you're brave enough. I was chewing that over myself. The 5700 XT is about $100 more right now if I buy it on eBay (buying the 5700 on NewEgg also gives me Monster Hunter: World and a few other perks). Is the difference in performance worth the $100-150 difference in price?
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Apr 8, 2020 14:34
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Can someone please let me know what the best either 6 pin or no pin video card is available right now? Would be used to play games. I got a couple of workstations in a school sale with unchangeable power supplies so I'm stuck with using a 6 pin for the video card. Last year I picked up one of these for one of them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IA9FEOO Which is working great, plays everything I throw at it. I'd like to get something similar for the 2nd one, however the price on this went from $150 to $400
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Apr 8, 2020 15:25
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Harminoff posted:Can someone please let me know what the best either 6 pin or no pin video card is available right now? Would be used to play games. Best would be a 1660 Super, which all have 8-pin power but you can safely use a 6-8pin adapter with. 1660 supers consume ~125 watts, peaking at 130-140 transient or with stress tests. That's just slightly higher than a 1060. Check the power supply's sticker for how much it can supply on the 12V (volts * amps = watts). On a whitebox system you want to give it a generous margin, staying at least 20% under the sticker spec.
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Apr 8, 2020 16:07
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Settled on a build Case: Meshify S2 CPU: Ryzen 3600 Mobo: Msi tomahawk Max Ram: Gskill 16Gb at 3600 Power supply: Corsair Rmx 650W Migrating a GeForce 1060, 256GB SSD, two platter HDs. Also have an m2 waiting and a spare SSD I’ll probably put Three Kingdoms on or something. I should be good, just gotta wait for the parts. I kind of feel bad for even ordering any of this poo poo during this time, but I also work in healthcare and I could be dead or dying in a couple weeks, so Imma go for it.
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Apr 8, 2020 20:29
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What's the cheapest Bluetooth gaming headset that isn't garbage?
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Apr 8, 2020 20:31
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I posted this build in the monitor thread but wouldn't mind a look at everything else. Built it off the Canadian Modest Build, but modified from micro to ATX form factor (I'd like the space to put it together). Also added the other peripherals I need but all open to suggestion. Please see my last post for my planned use and games https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Q8N6Pn Here's the same but went with a GTX 1660 Super instead of Ti, seems price difference isn't worth it. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/HXxHb8 Oysters Autobio fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 23:02
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I just picked up a 4tb HDD for extra storage. I plugged it all in and my computer wont turn on. Some troubleshooting and the only way to prevent this is to unplug the sata power cable from the PSU. I didn't have my originals so I got the power cable off a friend from a rig he built a year ago. It's definitely plugged into the sata power slot (I tried 2 of the 4 available ports). When it's plugged in (whether plugged into the hard drive or not) the Mb clicks and one led flashes then nothing. As soon as I unplug the sata power cable from the PSU, everything works fine. Are these power cable brand specific or something? It's a Seagate focus plus gold psu (750 iirc).
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Apr 9, 2020 01:08
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Cocaine Bear posted:I just picked up a 4tb HDD for extra storage. I plugged it all in and my computer wont turn on. Some troubleshooting and the only way to prevent this is to unplug the sata power cable from the PSU. I didn't have my originals so I got the power cable off a friend from a rig he built a year ago. It's definitely plugged into the sata power slot (I tried 2 of the 4 available ports). When it's plugged in (whether plugged into the hard drive or not) the Mb clicks and one led flashes then nothing. As soon as I unplug the sata power cable from the PSU, everything works fine. Yes, modular power supply cables are not the same between brands. Getting a cable from a friend with a different one means it may not be wired the same (and it probably isn't and you're likely shorting something out). You have to use one of the ones that came with your PSU or get a compatible one from the manufacturer or one of the sleeved cable makers.
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Apr 9, 2020 01:20
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Well poo poo. Guess I need to hunt down a very specific power cable then. Thanks for the info!
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Apr 9, 2020 01:27
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Cocaine Bear posted:Well poo poo. Guess I need to hunt down a very specific power cable then. Some of the cheapest sources are also the slowest shipping right now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCIe-6Pin-1-to-4-SATA-Power-Cable-for-Seasonic-FOCUS-Plus-Gold-850-750-650-550-/202480985541 Cablemod is who I was thinking of for custom cables. They'll have it but it'll be a bit more costly. You can get it sleeved in cool colors, though! https://cablemod.com/made-for/seasonic/
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Apr 9, 2020 01:33
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Yeah, everything I'm seeing is either 30 bux or takes months to arrive. It's nothing urgent but guess I'm going to have to shell out or wait or find a friend with a spare from the same series of PSU. Also, is there a quick way to see if I fried anything by plugging in the wrong cable? Everything seems to be working fine so far but I'm getting paranoid. Thanks again for the info, Rexxed!
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Apr 9, 2020 01:53
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Cocaine Bear posted:Yeah, everything I'm seeing is either 30 bux or takes months to arrive. It's nothing urgent but guess I'm going to have to shell out or wait or find a friend with a spare from the same series of PSU. Your description makes it sound like after being told to power on the system or even the PSU realized there was a short or some bad voltage and just stopped the whole boot up right away, so that's good. I'd guess if the computer is running it's probably okay. To test the hard disk you could plug it in with the cables from another disk and check that at least it shows in the BIOS/UEFI or use a bootable OS to check it out. Otherwise I'd use an external HD adapter but I know not everyone has those cluttering up the place.
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Apr 9, 2020 02:01
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If you have a spare molex header, a molex->sata adapter would work for a while. Unfortunately it's still a week for shipping but your friend might have some lying around, or call around local shops. I wouldn't use them long-term because they often have quality-control issues, but one could hold you over until you get a proper cable!
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Apr 9, 2020 02:02
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Again, thanks for the replies. I'm going to call up some local shops (lots of them are closed rn for some reason  ) and put up some Kijiji ads and see what I can find. Worst case, I'll just dish out the cash and get the drat thing shipped to me. Hopefully I didn't fry the new HDD, but I'm just happy I don't seem to have bricked myself.
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Apr 9, 2020 02:19
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I just upgraded my computer with a new motherboard and some ram, and it's telling me when I boot that the ram is in non-optimal slots (I have it in 1 + 2, it tells me to put it in 2 + 4). Problem is, If I try 1 + 3 or 2 + 4, the computer just doesn't boot. Is there something it could be other than faulty motherboard slots?
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Apr 9, 2020 04:08
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TastyAvocado posted:I just upgraded my computer with a new motherboard and some ram, and it's telling me when I boot that the ram is in non-optimal slots (I have it in 1 + 2, it tells me to put it in 2 + 4). Problem is, If I try 1 + 3 or 2 + 4, the computer just doesn't boot. Is there something it could be other than faulty motherboard slots? You almost certainly want 2+4 (if 4 is the one that's farthest away from the CPU). It's unlikely to be the slots but possible. 1. Have you run a memtest on this ram to make sure it's good? 2. Are both sticks of ram the same, like from a 2-stick kit? 3. Are you loading XPM / setting it to run at higher speed, or just defaults? Oysters Autobio posted:I posted this build in the monitor thread but wouldn't mind a look at everything else. Built it off the Canadian Modest Build, but modified from micro to ATX form factor (I'd like the space to put it together). Also added the other peripherals I need but all open to suggestion. Please see my last post for my planned use and games 1660 Super. With the Ti it's smarter to just move up to a 2060 or 5700. Suggestions: * ditch windows 10, purchase cd-key from goon or ebay, or re-use whatever win7 key you can find lying around * dunno if the 1600AF is available in canada, but search for "YD1600BBAFBOX" in your canuk stores * a seasonic focus plus gold is apparently $5 cheaper than the corsair TXM * storage: $10 more for a wd blue or crucial MX500 is worth it for your main drive, since those have dram and the team does not
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Apr 9, 2020 04:50
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Cocaine Bear posted:I just picked up a 4tb HDD for extra storage. I plugged it all in and my computer wont turn on. Some troubleshooting and the only way to prevent this is to unplug the sata power cable from the PSU. I didn't have my originals so I got the power cable off a friend from a rig he built a year ago. It's definitely plugged into the sata power slot (I tried 2 of the 4 available ports). When it's plugged in (whether plugged into the hard drive or not) the Mb clicks and one led flashes then nothing. As soon as I unplug the sata power cable from the PSU, everything works fine. Ahhhh, never do this, modular cables are not standardised in any way, you're shorting something out; the psu is protecting you right now You should always keep the psu box with the extra cables for easy identification
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Apr 9, 2020 08:36
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What's a good program to stress test for clock speeds and thermals once a system has been finished? Ideally I'd like something I can leave running for a while and then get a detailed report of, for both CPU and GPU afterwards. Edit: OCCT seems to be exactly what I want except it seems you can't get any detailed graphs after testing, it only shows you clock and thermals "live" Incessant Excess fucked around with this message at 11:02 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 10:54
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Klyith posted:You almost certainly want 2+4 (if 4 is the one that's farthest away from the CPU). It's unlikely to be the slots but possible. 1. No, but the computer won't even go to bios with memory in the other slots, so I'm not sure how I could test them. The system recognizes I have them both in at least. 2. They came together. 3. No. Is there any benefit to using the right slots other than that "dual channel" stuff? A quick look around suggests the dual channel benefits are tiny in most cases and I'm not too upset to just ignore it since the computer seems to be working great.
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Apr 9, 2020 13:23
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TastyAvocado posted:1. No, but the computer won't even go to bios with memory in the other slots, so I'm not sure how I could test them. The system recognizes I have them both in at least. You can run memtest on them in the current 1+2 slots, the idea here is you're just testing the memory sticks themselves. But with your other 2 answers it does look more like it's the motherboard. You should still run a memtest though, it takes a while so just leave it going overnight or something. I guess my only other question is, when you've put the ram in different slots during your troubleshooting process, have you made sure that it's fully seated into the socket every time? The memory slots are pretty stiff and need a very firm push to get all the way down until the latches click. TastyAvocado posted:Is there any benefit to using the right slots other than that "dual channel" stuff? A quick look around suggests the dual channel benefits are tiny in most cases and I'm not too upset to just ignore it since the computer seems to be working great. If you don't play video games it's mildly ignorable. I'd still want it fixed if it's a mobo flaw, because you might have other problems down the line. Those things are tested at the factory.
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Apr 9, 2020 14:05
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TastyAvocado posted:1. No, but the computer won't even go to bios with memory in the other slots, so I'm not sure how I could test them. The system recognizes I have them both in at least. You shouldn't be OK with degraded performance and a faulty motherboard from brand spanking new. It could be that the problem will get worse, or will later manifest itself in another way. Edit: eh, it's already been said
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Apr 9, 2020 14:15
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I tried some old memory and again it doesn't work with the 3rd or 4th slot. A look online makes it seem like this is a common problem and one issue might be I might have hosed up installing the CPU, and it's too tight on one side? I was freaked out while installing it at how tightly I had to pull the lever on the cooler. Unfortunately sending the motherboard in for repairs or whatever doesn't feel like an option, I need the computer to work from home and obviously I can't take a month off of work or however long it would take. I could put the old one back in I guess but now I'm scared I'll just gently caress that up too.
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Apr 9, 2020 14:43
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Klyith posted:You can run memtest on them in the current 1+2 slots, the idea here is you're just testing the memory sticks themselves. But with your other 2 answers it does look more like it's the motherboard. You should still run a memtest though, it takes a while so just leave it going overnight or something. [...] And yes, it might seem annoying to troubleshoot now but if you just keep using the computer that "works" right now, I can assure you it will be so much more annoying to figure out what's going on once it starts doing random crashes, driver lockups etc. in a year or three if something about your mainboard or RAM is defective already.
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Apr 9, 2020 14:46
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TastyAvocado posted:Unfortunately sending the motherboard in for repairs or whatever doesn't feel like an option, I need the computer to work from home and obviously I can't take a month off of work or however long it would take. I could put the old one back in I guess but now I'm scared I'll just gently caress that up too. I'd say leave it where it is for now while you need your poo poo to be functional working from home, but put fixing it on the top of your list for when this mess is over. A complete teardown & reassembly so you can check the CPU socket & mount, then get on the warranty RMA if that doesn't fix it. Also depending on which company this is who made it, you may be able to ask for cross-ship replacement. They'll put a hold on your credit card for the mobo value.
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Apr 9, 2020 14:58
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I have an old tube of Artic Silver 5 that's probably about 10 years old. Is that okay to use or should I toss it and use the stuff that comes with my CPU?
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Apr 9, 2020 16:18
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 CO CPU Cooler ($32.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($83.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($124.99 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB KO ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($303.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon) Total: $935.83 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-09 11:21 EDT-0400 I actually already have the RTX 2060 in my current rig (recently purchased), just including it to reflect the end wattage which is 329W. I realize this should be a little more after you consider the case and fans connected but there isn't anything crazy that would drive it beyond 350W. Do you think the RMx 550W PSU is enough here? I also have a little flexibility in my budget, so if there are any obvious upgrades you suggest that only raise the price $50-100, please let me know! Thanks goons.
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Apr 9, 2020 16:26
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Two runs of memtest came up clean, I fear it's the CPU thing. I'm scared to check, if putting the cooler on messed it up once, it might break something worse a second time. I'm going to leave it for now and will either check it out myself or get it checked out at a shop.... uh, when that becomes a possibility. Thanks for the help everyone. The good news is it's working great so far.
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Apr 9, 2020 17:02
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seiferguy posted:I have an old tube of Artic Silver 5 that's probably about 10 years old. Is that okay to use or should I toss it and use the stuff that comes with my CPU? If it's still spreadable it's ok. If they've been stored well most paste will last nearly forever, the silicone oil that most of them use as the liquid matrix is pretty stable at room temp. They only dry out quickly with heat. I have a tube of AS that's over 15 years old and still usable. Ah those were the days, when they filled the tubes all the way up and you could get several dozen uses if you did the card-spreading method. Liquid Banjo posted:Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($124.99 @ B&H) The 660p is a QLC drive, see this post for details. For a relatively modest increase in price there's the HP EX950 or an adata XPG SX8200. A quality PSU like the RMx with 550w is fine for that build and even has headroom for a more power-hungry video card in the future.
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Apr 9, 2020 17:10
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Klyith posted:
I have access to a nearby Microcenter but they don't carry either of those. Any other recs? Even at 500GB too. Thanks for the response!
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Apr 9, 2020 17:27
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Liquid Banjo posted:I have access to a nearby Microcenter but they don't carry either of those. Any other recs? Even at 500GB too. Thanks for the response! If microcenter is available, no question get the Inland Premium 1TB.
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Apr 9, 2020 17:42
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Any thoughts on the Seagate Firecuda 510? I got a 1tb at a really good discount. It’s an M2 SSD and TLC.
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Apr 9, 2020 18:17
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Kraftwerk posted:Any thoughts on the Seagate Firecuda 510? I got a 1tb at a really good discount. It’s an M2 SSD and TLC. It's a Phision E12, so same thing as an Inland Premium or HP EX950. Doesn't show up in reccomendations just because they're normally sold at a higher price than other E12 drives. If you got it at a good enough discount, score.
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Apr 9, 2020 18:49
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why are GTX 1070s going for $600 retail? should... I be selling mine? lmao I'm kinda behind on the times here but I was thinking I'd recently upgraded my video card and it was time to tick-tock upgrade the guts of my machine... Anyway my proposed build is Ryzen 3600 RTX 2070 32 GB DDR 3200 ASRock X570 to mitigate compatibility issues (Haven't done the reading on this) this is bundled with a 500GB PCIe SSD I have a bunch of other drives. Is a 650W PSU sufficient to drive this? Gunshow Poophole fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 21:50
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