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Klyith posted:It's a Phision E12, so same thing as an Inland Premium or HP EX950. Doesn't show up in reccomendations just because they're normally sold at a higher price than other E12 drives. If you got it at a good enough discount, score. Not that it really matters, but the HP EX950 has a Silicon Motion 2262EN, the same controller as the Adata sx8200 Pro and a small step up from E12 drives. They'll all be functionally equivalent for consumer tasks, though!
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# ? Apr 9, 2020 22:00 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 04:12 |
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Gunshow Poophole posted:why are GTX 1070s going for $600 retail? This is just that weird section of Amazon where stock depletes and hits the scalpers. They don't actually sell for $600 - they're typically around $200 on ebay, and you'd need to jump up to at least a 2060 Super / 2070 to see a significant performance boost (though that would also give you access to the new DLSS features!) Build looks good - 32GB isn't necessary for gaming now, but ram is still relatively cheap. You'll probably want to throw on a cheap cooler, too - the stock one is pretty loud. X570 is not necessary for compatibility - just get a Tomahawk MAX b450 (and most other b450s will be updated by now). A 2070 and 2060 Super are basically the same, so don't buy a 2070 unless it's cheaper than an equivalent 2060 Super. Also, check performance benchmarks for the 2060 Super / 2070 Super if you're planning on running 1440p - it might be worth stepping up. If you're at 1080p, it might be worth stepping down to a 2060 if you can find one for ~$300. Since SSDs are still relatively cheap, I'd also consider bumping up to 1TB. Games are getting bigger! SATA is fine for games - there's not really a noticeable advantage to NVMe drives. E: If you have lots of games installed on spinny disks and you have a free SATA port, you might want to consider getting a small $10-15 ssd off ebay and setting up a read cache with Primocache. It's not as good as installing direction to an SSD, but it works well for games that load the same levels/assets many times (like multiplayer games). Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Apr 9, 2020 |
# ? Apr 9, 2020 22:09 |
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Stickman posted:This is just that weird section of Amazon where stock depletes and hits the scalpers. They don't actually sell for $600 - they're typically around $200 on ebay, and you'd need to jump up to at least a 2060 Super / 2070 to see a significant performance boost (though that would also give you access to the new DLSS features!) thanks for weighing in! interesting note about the video card, but everything I see has 2070s at about the same price at 2060 supers. I'm at 1080p for games plus another monitor so I kinda land n the middle. is a PCIe SSD noticeably faster than a SATA3 or whatever? I don't really need to go that way. I've got two other *SSD drives I'm migrating over anyway plus my NAS so... I'm not strapped for space. No spinny disks. Gunshow Poophole fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Apr 9, 2020 |
# ? Apr 9, 2020 22:14 |
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Gunshow Poophole posted:is a PCIe SSD noticeably faster than a SATA3 or whatever? NVMe drives are rarely noticeably faster than sata SSDs for a user of desktop apps and games. They are a lot faster in raw bandwidth, and in highly-queued applications like databases. At the moment that doesn't translate well to many things us normal people do. Games generally only see a second or two of load speed increase (on 20-30s load times), because the CPU is doing a lot of work during the load and a faster drive doesn't help. However, the new consoles are going to come with NMVe drives, and MS & Sony are spitting big game about how their custom drives are faster than PC drives, and how everything will load instantly on next-gen. Maybe they're right and games will start seeing more improvement from NMVe. It remains to be seen though.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 01:02 |
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Klyith posted:It remains to be seen though. eah I'm just not invested that much in it my machine is a PC of Theseus that set sail in like June of 2013 so I'm making several leaps replacing the guts regardless thanks for everyone's thoughts this thread has been a godsend for 10 years
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 01:46 |
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What’s the opinion on GPU bolsters/supports? I’m building with a Gigabyte 2070 Super, and sure, it’s heavy, so do I need one? I never put one in my old build with a 970.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 03:22 |
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Schiavona posted:What’s the opinion on GPU bolsters/supports? I’m building with a Gigabyte 2070 Super, and sure, it’s heavy, so do I need one? I never put one in my old build with a 970. My own anecdote is I've never used a GPU support before across 6 builds over about 17 years of PC gaming. I have only had one minor problem with a PCI-E slot once, and that was from a triple-slot monster of a GTX 580 on a motherboard that I really cheaped out on. Even then I just had to give the card a jiggle every now and again. If you've got a monstrously heavy card and a really low-end motherboard, I can't see any harm in using a support bracket. But it seems to me that even a lot of midrange boards have metal reinforced PCI-E slots these days, so I personally wouldn't bother.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 08:52 |
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Looking to pick up a SSD for my budget build and I see a deal on a Western Digital nvme 500gb piece... My motherboard is the ASRock B450M Pro 4 and when I check the support list on the ASRock site I don't see the exact SSD i'm looking to buy on the list... Should I pick something that's only on the supported list or should I be okay picking this one up?
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 10:34 |
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Schiavona posted:Whats the opinion on GPU bolsters/supports? Completely superfluous thing that was only invented after everyone got cases with windows and noticed that heavy GPUs don't stay at exact 90° angles. Your GPU going a bit is an aesthetic thing only and a bolster is only needed if you care about its appearance. Angry Asian posted:Looking to pick up a SSD for my budget build and I see a deal on a Western Digital nvme 500gb piece... My motherboard is the ASRock B450M Pro 4 and when I check the support list on the ASRock site I don't see the exact SSD i'm looking to buy on the list... Should I pick something that's only on the supported list or should I be okay picking this one up? NVMe support lists are 100% ignorable, it's not a thing that has any variance like DDR timings (all fast DDR ram is technically violating the spec, which is why you have to press a button in BIOSes to load XMP). The two things that were ever a compatibility concern with NVMe drives were the first motherboards that barely supported it, and early drives that needed drivers in windows to work well. Both of which are long in the past.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 13:01 |
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What're the high end CPU options right now, and when's gonna be the time to buy a new GPU? I sprung for a 1060 gpu when they came out, like, two years ago, but I've been getting seriously bottle necked by my CPU which was middle of the line when I got it.... uh, 8 years ago. i5 3570k. I'm looking towards upgrading to a three monitor set up with my next build, because as it is I spend a ton of time keeping discord chats or forum posts open while watching a stream and trying to play a game all at the same time, and I want something that can just loving demolish all the asks streaming/streams/the most poorly coded web page in chrome/an MMORPG raid demand of a CPU, all at the same time. (probably gonna spring for 32 gb of ram, speaking of...)
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 13:18 |
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If you are just playing an actual game on only one monitor just get a 3700x / 2070 SUPER to ease your mind. No need in "waiting" for anything. Your tasks are not extremely demanding. You could probably get away with a 2060 SUPER as well if you aren't gaming at 1440p. Also the 1060 is almost four years old.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 15:13 |
Taking a look at getting a PC somehow. What's the second hand market like for Ryzen 5 and 7s? Are the first generation ones pretty much obsolete for the money now? I wouldn't mind building one myself, but it seems that 2nd gen systems are going for some decent prices on ebay.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 15:42 |
I got my parts today, and started building the machine. I tried to remove the heatsink to resocket it because the screws wouldn't hit the threads and I'd used too much thermal paste so the CPU got ripped out of its socket while in the locked position . Luckily everything works but that was a scare.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 15:47 |
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Built a PC for VR, first system I've built since 2012. Here's what I got: Ryzen 5 3600 with Noctua NH-D15 Chromamax Black cooler Asus ROG Strix B450-F motherboard MSI RTX 2070 Super w/8GB GDDR6 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus NVMe 16GB DDR4-3200 (soon to be 32GB) EVGA 850 GQ PSU NZXT H510 Case Vive Cosmos Elite VR headset I have a few questions I'm hoping y'all can assist with - and I apologize for the noob-ness as I'm knowledgeable enough to build a PC but I'm not a power user: 1). I despise bloatware so when I got a popup on every boot saying NVidia Control Panel wasn't installed I just disabled the service that causing the popup. I do have the latest graphics drivers installed - but don't have GeForce Experience, as I decided it was poo poo way back when they enforced account creation. That said, I'm now leaning on my graphics card harder than I have with any computer I'm now wondering if I should get it, or if I'm fine without. 2). The motherboard came with "Aura" for managing RGB LEDs, a lovely news app and a branded version of CPU-Z. I am surprised there isn't something for like, monitoring sensors (e.g. fan speed/temps) at a glance and checking for BIOS updates. Any recommendations for some sort of smallish "widget" style utility? Really looking for something simple/dashboardy for temps & speeds, rather than something like HWINFO. 3). Speaking of HWINFO/CPU-Z, it's reporting that the DRAM Frequency is 1197.7MHz, which- well, I'd expect that to say 3200MHz, since it's DDR4 3200 - is that correct, or am I seeing a metric for something else? I have the memory in the slots recommended in the manual (and in fact will have 4 identical 8GB modules installed later today).
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 16:16 |
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sarcastx posted:3). Speaking of HWINFO/CPU-Z, it's reporting that the DRAM Frequency is 1197.7MHz, which- well, I'd expect that to say 3200MHz, since it's DDR4 3200 - is that correct, or am I seeing a metric for something else?
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 16:29 |
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You don't need GeForce Experience for most things (I'm not using it so I can't tell you what you're missing) but the control panel is a different thing, Windows 10 drivers are now distributed in a form that requires additional control panel apps from the Microsoft Store. The reported RAM clocks are half the memory's speed so you should be seeing something close to 1600 MHz (minor differences would be fine, eg. something like 1596.4 MHz). Your memory is running at 1200 MHz ie. DDR4-2400 (a safe default value for DDR4-RAM) however, which means have to turn on XMP/A-XMP/DOCP in your BIOS.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 16:34 |
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When installing a brand new CPU with a fresh out of box cooler, do you need to do any solvent cleaning of the surfaces before putting them together? What’s the best thermal compound right now? Is it still AS5? Should you use whatever compound comes with your aftermarket cooler?
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 16:35 |
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Thoughts? Mostly for office and some gaming. Will eventually be moving to a dual monitor setup, so any help there would be appreciated. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sWJRMc CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($238.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Amazon) Total: $901.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-10 12:29 EDT-0400
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 17:30 |
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cage-free egghead posted:Taking a look at getting a PC somehow. What's the second hand market like for Ryzen 5 and 7s? Are the first generation ones pretty much obsolete for the money now? First gen aren't at all obsolete, I'm still using a 1600X and it's fine. But for used you should calibrate your prices around the 1600AF* selling for $85 new, so I'd want deals in the $50 range. *and the 1600AF isn't even first gen, it's 2nd gen with a 1st gen name Joda posted:I got my parts today, and started building the machine. I tried to remove the heatsink to resocket it because the screws wouldn't hit the threads and I'd used too much thermal paste so the CPU got ripped out of its socket while in the locked position . Luckily everything works but that was a scare. For future reference it helps to give a heatsink a bit of twist action before pulling it off to break the adhesion. Kraftwerk posted:When installing a brand new CPU with a fresh out of box cooler, do you need to do any solvent cleaning of the surfaces before putting them together? Out of the box it shouldn't need any cleaning unless you see visible schmutz on it. Use whatever came with the heatsink, special thermal compounds don't have performance differences worth any extra effort. If you need to get more AS5 is still fine, the newer versions like arctic MX and other brands are a bit more liquid / goopy. I think the newer ones spread more easily with just a glob and mashing down the heatsink.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 17:47 |
Klyith posted:First gen aren't at all obsolete, I'm still using a 1600X and it's fine. But for used you should calibrate your prices around the 1600AF* selling for $85 new, so I'd want deals in the $50 range. I did see that AF version and dug into it more, that's pretty slick. Here's something I found for $750 that piqued my interest after some digging: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Des...ReikBa&LH_BIN=1 -AMD Ryzen 5 1600AF CPU (new) -MSI B450 Chipset Bazooka V2 Mainboard (new) -PNY GTX 1070 XLR8 OC 8GB Graphics Card (refurb) -Seasonic 620W power supply (new) -SBX 240GB NVME SSD (new) -Toshiba 1TB HDD (new) -16GB Oloy 3000MHz DDR4 RAM (new) -DeepCool Blue LED CPU Cooler (new) -6x 120mm Blue LED fans (new) -New Cougar tempered glass side panel case with stainless steel front panel I've got some hard drives, an SSD, and a m2 ssd somewhere that I can reuse, but the 1070 is like half of the cost of this build. Thoughts? Here is one I put together based on some general recommendations: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (14nm) 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor ($85.00) Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.98 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($224.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.95 @ Walmart) Power Supply: EVGA 600 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $599.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-10 13:17 EDT-0400 That would leave some money left over for a new monitor, I'd like to venture above a 1080p screen but don't really care about 4k gaming or anything like that. cage-free egghead fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Apr 10, 2020 |
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 18:12 |
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cage-free egghead posted:ebay vs build Your second PC is basically performance-identical with the ebay one, would still be cheaper if you added the storage, and your case is way better. Plus fresh warranties. This is why I generally find buying used PC stuff worthless unless it's on SA-mart, ebay is just flooded with non-deals. cage-free egghead posted:Power Supply: EVGA 600 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Best Buy) Get a better PSU though, the EVGA brand name doesn't do much for that one. The corsair CX 450 or 550 are what I generally point to for budget PSUs. The 450 only has 1 PCIe power plug, which would work with your 1660 but may limit future upgrades.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 18:34 |
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Used 1070s are $200 so I'm not sure how you got that as half the value of the first machine.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 18:40 |
Klyith posted:Your second PC is basically performance-identical with the ebay one, would still be cheaper if you added the storage, and your case is way better. Plus fresh warranties. This is why I generally find buying used PC stuff worthless unless it's on SA-mart, ebay is just flooded with non-deals. Cool, appreciate the advice! I thought the CX series ones were frowned upon, or is that concern long gone? I remember years ago it was goon disapproved. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Used 1070s are $200 so I'm not sure how you got that as half the value of the first machine. I based it off of new ones, which I realized after I posted.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 19:14 |
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cage-free egghead posted:Cool, appreciate the advice! I thought the CX series ones were frowned upon, or is that concern long gone? I remember years ago it was goon disapproved. That might be the CV you're thinking of? Which would not be recommended. And the CX is specifically the non-modular version, which has different (better) guts than the modular CXM.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 20:09 |
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The CX/CXM were frowned upon back when they still had the green label but the grey label ones are a new platform.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 20:12 |
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so if I have an 8600k and want to upgrade soon would getting a 9900k be worth it? or should I just dump the motherboard and jump on the AMD train. I've been told my CPU will be useless for games in the next year to two due to the lack of hyper threading and want to get out ahead of that, and maybe give my 8600k to my bored nephew.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 21:29 |
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hatty posted:so if I have an 8600k and want to upgrade soon would getting a 9900k be worth it? or should I just dump the motherboard and jump on the AMD train. I've been told my CPU will be useless for games in the next year to two due to the lack of hyper threading and want to get out ahead of that, and maybe give my 8600k to my bored nephew. It's definitely not worth it to buy a cpu now for games in the future, especially not games that are more than a year out. We don't really know what the cpu requirements will look like on PC, nor what will be acceptable single-core or multi-core performance. We'll have 10th-gen Intel processors (on a new motherboard) and 4th-gen Ryzen by then and third-gen Ryzen will probably be on firesale. If you're bored nephew has a 60Hz monitor, just pick him up a 1600AF + MSi B450-A Pro or Asrock B450 Pro4 for not much more than the price of a Z370/90 board to run your 8600k.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 21:40 |
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okay I'll just wait longer, thanks!
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 21:42 |
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Sadly, the PC I built six years ago in college and sporadically upgraded since has hit the point where I desperately need to upgrade my CPU, which also means upgrading the motherboard, which means it's basically time to scrap most of it and start over. Of the parts I've got, I've most recently replaced the graphics card and the storage drives, so I'm not planning to replace those immediately (unless they're secretly huge bottlenecks and I haven't noticed). My use case is occasional current-gen AAA gaming and frequent CPU-intensive map-painting gaming in 1080p. I don't have any immediate plans to upgrade my monitors, but might want to in a year or so. What I've got right now is this, with the parts I plan on keeping for now noted: My current build posted:PCPartPicker Part List I've shamelessly taken all of the basic recommendations in MikeC's post, which gives me this: What I'm looking at posted:PCPartPicker Part List PCPartPicker isn't flashing any compatibility warnings at me, which I think means everything will fit together; am I being a bonehead for keeping my not-ancient parts for the moment/will this work ok for a while until I can upgrade those too?
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 23:04 |
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Quorum posted:Sadly, the PC I built six years ago in college and sporadically upgraded since has hit the point where I desperately need to upgrade my CPU, which also means upgrading the motherboard, which means it's basically time to scrap most of it and start over. Of the parts I've got, I've most recently replaced the graphics card and the storage drives, so I'm not planning to replace those immediately (unless they're secretly huge bottlenecks and I haven't noticed). My use case is occasional current-gen AAA gaming and frequent CPU-intensive map-painting gaming in 1080p. I don't have any immediate plans to upgrade my monitors, but might want to in a year or so. The 1060 is gonna have to get switched out soon-ish but it’s not urgent.
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# ? Apr 10, 2020 23:32 |
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Quorum posted:Sadly, the PC I built six years ago in college and sporadically upgraded since has hit the point where I desperately need to upgrade my CPU, which also means upgrading the motherboard, which means it's basically time to scrap most of it and start over. Of the parts I've got, I've most recently replaced the graphics card and the storage drives, so I'm not planning to replace those immediately (unless they're secretly huge bottlenecks and I haven't noticed). My use case is occasional current-gen AAA gaming and frequent CPU-intensive map-painting gaming in 1080p. I don't have any immediate plans to upgrade my monitors, but might want to in a year or so. Get the 1600AF which is essentially identical to the 2600 and will save you ~$35. https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07XTQZJ28 The 1060 is pretty brutal considering its only the 3GB model... but yea.
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 01:15 |
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Thom P. Tiers posted:Get the 1600AF which is essentially identical to the 2600 and will save you ~$35. Yeah, that's next on the list. I can limp along another few months to a year, though, so it gets a stay of execution. e: also good suggestion on the processor, thanks! Quorum fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Apr 11, 2020 |
# ? Apr 11, 2020 01:46 |
Hey Goons, I'm in Ireland, the system is for gaming (the work stuff can be easily done within the current system) I can spend like 2k tops but I'd rather not push the outer limits of that unnecessarily. The existing system is to the best of my recollection GPU :1070 ti CPU: i7 8700k Ram: 16 gigs ddr4 at 2400 mhz Board: I forget what this is offhand. It cost around a 100 euro 2-3 years ago. Its an msi thing. Monitor: BenQ XL series XL2411Z PSU: Forget what this is but I think it had a silver medal and is like 2 years old. 650 watts. It also came with a comical amount of extra cables so i should be able to plug into whatever Storage: 2 ssds at 250 gigs and a terrabyte hdd, the games and os are on the ssds and the hdd is mostly films and music Case: I can't remember the model but it fits like 8 fans. The I can't remember stuff is because I'm not at home and am trapped out in the countryside on my toaster laptop. Covid 19 travel restrictions are not fun. I should be back in a week or two and it would be nice to pick this stuff up and just install it I want to upgrade the monitor. The colors aren't great on the benq but I really appreciate the 1ms response time and the 144hz. I'd like to get those qualities with better color. Nothing makes a game look better to me than a high fps at a high refresh rate but if I could get that with nicer looks I'd like that I'm going to buy another 16 gigs of ram at a higher mhz. That seems pretty affordable. The gpu I kind of want to upgrade. I can afford to and I'm aware that a new gen is coming but at some point instead of 6 months due to everyone's favorite virus. I was thinking of buying a rtx 2070 super. The one above that in the ratings doesn't seem worth it but for all I know the 1070 is fine I want to leave the cpu alone, it should be fine. Consequently I also want to leave the board alone. What I want is very high fps and looks a second to that but I think a monitor change would do a lot there. I'd happily spring for a gpu that isn't 1.2k euro. I'd go for it if it wasn't definitely going to be superseded in like a year, year and a half Goofballs fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Apr 11, 2020 |
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 03:54 |
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Is the Asus ROG line of motherboards and video cards considered the “best” now? I’ve always been getting them since Skylake and I’m not sure if I’m missing anything from EVGA, gigabyte, msi and so on. Thoughts? Am I just falling for marketing?
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 03:55 |
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Is there any downside to buying internal cables via Aliexpress, other than the shipping time that is? I have a bunch that are either too long or too short for neat cable runs.
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 10:31 |
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Joda posted:I got my parts today, and started building the machine. I tried to remove the heatsink to resocket it because the screws wouldn't hit the threads and I'd used too much thermal paste so the CPU got ripped out of its socket while in the locked position . Luckily everything works but that was a scare. I was scared shitless of that happening when I was swapping my 2700X for a new 3800X. A lot of wiggling and a plastic knife helped break the seal between the heatsink and cpu. Turns out I did a pretty good job on the old chip's thermal paste spread.
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 12:02 |
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Kraftwerk posted:Is the Asus ROG line of motherboards and video cards considered the “best” now? I’ve always been getting them since Skylake and I’m not sure if I’m missing anything from EVGA, gigabyte, msi and so on. Thoughts? Am I just falling for marketing? No, the ROG label is not a universal sign of quality. Sometimes it just means they stuck extra RGB and bling on it. For example, the differences between this and this are purely cosmetic, and then the ROG version adds some more features but keeps the same poor VRM. (Asus's B450 boards were unusually bad for them, but the point is they're not above charging you $20 for 50 cents of RGB leds and plastic shrouds with the ROG name.) But you're also probably falling for marketing in general with the idea that the best motherboards get you any sort of value for the money they cost. What do you actually need? Are you doing extreme overclocking like the guys you see on youtube? Then you probably don't need a $400 EVGA Dark or Asus Hero mobo.
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 14:47 |
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Mostly I just need a way to measure the actual quality of motherboards. I don’t actually care that much about the coloured LEDs. I just want 2 M2 slots, a user friendly bios interface, the ability to overclock without much hassle and to have plenty of room for stuff like fan headers etc. I also want the board to be reliable and durable so it can deal with the weight of stuff like the dark rock pro.
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 16:00 |
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Kraftwerk posted:Mostly I just need a way to measure the actual quality of motherboards. I don’t actually care that much about the coloured LEDs. I just want 2 M2 slots, a user friendly bios interface, the ability to overclock without much hassle and to have plenty of room for stuff like fan headers etc. quote:I also want the board to be reliable and durable so it can deal with the weight of stuff like the dark rock pro. That's all boards, they're made of glass fiber and resin. No mobo can't deal with even the heaviest cooler, unless you drop it or something.
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 16:31 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 04:12 |
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Klyith posted:Are you looking at AMD CPUs? For AMD motherboards, there's a good spreadsheet of VRM quality to consult. VRM is often overblown as a "need", but if you're overclocking it makes a difference. And it's the thing that has the biggest spread in quality from worst to best. Just what the doctor ordered. Thank you!
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# ? Apr 11, 2020 17:19 |