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kid sinister posted:
Great, as for the recall kit it is part# sw6350. I was wrong on the price, it is around $20. So free at dealer. Or DIY on not a bad job and not have to dick around with dealer.
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Apr 8, 2020 19:51
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C-Bangin' it 
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Recommendations for a jack and jack stands? Primarily for occasional use swapping winter/summer wheels, potentially other relatively simple things like brake work, etc. I have an RS4 and an F150. Is this one of the things that harbor freight is good for? If so, which line? What capacity should I be looking at?
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Apr 9, 2020 01:21
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 Can I put a new plug end on my inflator? Looks like it's some kind of crimp. It'd be a shame to throw it away if I can repair it (plus I don't wanna spend the money).
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Apr 9, 2020 01:35
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So I got a 2012 Civic Si Coupe, and I've been wanting to deepen the exhaust note. How would the sound differ between an aftermarket full cat-back or just swapping the muffler (perhaps something like an Apexi WS2)? BTW, is there a Honda thread or somewhere else I can poo poo up with more SI questions?
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Apr 9, 2020 02:43
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Steve French posted:Recommendations for a jack and jack stands? Primarily for occasional use swapping winter/summer wheels, potentially other relatively simple things like brake work, etc. I have an RS4 and an F150. Is this one of the things that harbor freight is good for? If so, which line? What capacity should I be looking at? I have a Daytona 4-ton from HF, it's good so far. $200. Available in low-profile, long-reach, and regular varieties. Heavy goddamn thing. I paired it with an 8-ton bottle jack that I keep in the truck to lift it or whatever trailer I was using, haven't had a problem with either. Jack stands, eh. I use the cheapies from Advance Auto. Think it was $29.95 for the pair. I use a jack handle to let them down so's to keep fingers out from underneath the vehicle, but you should be doing that anyway.
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Apr 9, 2020 04:09
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Charles posted:
https://amazon.com/LUMITECO-Compressor-Portable-Connector-Chuck-2Pack/dp/B076F2PL5H?ref_=ast_bbp_dp  Is this what I want? They also have this style: https://amazon.com/LUMITECO-inflator-Compressor-Connector-repair-2Pack/dp/B07263PGCW?ref_=ast_bbp_dp  Does hotlinking images from Amazon work?
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Apr 9, 2020 18:19
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Yeah those will work. Looks the second on is spring loaded.
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Apr 9, 2020 18:31
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Any thought on which is better? Seems like the second one is easier to use 1 handed.
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Apr 9, 2020 19:34
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Charles posted:Any thought on which is better? Seems like the second one is easier to use 1 handed. Not all rims have the clearance for straight on Schrader connections. I also don't see any seal inside that render. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 22:33
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kid sinister posted:Not all rims have the clearance for straight on Schrader connections. I also don't see any seal inside that render. Hmm, the third review on that one mentions it not sealing properly on all stems because of the way it seals. I guess I'll get the first one. I wasn't able to find any non-brand X ones, they're all non-native translated product descriptions. I tried Home Depot's website too but couldn't find anything.
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Apr 9, 2020 23:04
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I want talk about transmission and engine oil coolers. I have a 98 land rover discovery, that I swapped from the v8 to the 300tdi (which is a 4cyl turbo diesel for those not familiar with Rover nomenclature) about a year ago. I retained the v8 radiator, which is larger than the standard tdi radiator, and has an internal transmission cooler as well as an engine oil cooler. (The standard 300tdi radiator is shortened to accommodate the intercooler next to it. I have front mounted my intercooler to retain the v8 rad.) The transmission also gets an additional cooler mounted in front of the radiator. In a standard 300tdi discovery, there is no transmission cooler in the radiator,only the external cooler in front of the rad. The trans cooler piping is complicated, rusty and starting to seep from the rubber sections so I want to replace it all with stainless braided. In thinking about doing this, piping would be WAY easier with no external trans cooler. If I retain the trans cooler in the rad, can/should I do away with the external cooler? The turbo on the 300tdi is only cooled by oil, would it be beneficial to add an external cooler for the engine oil, in addition to the one in the radiator? Since both fluids are already being cooled in a larger radiator than standard, are external coolers just added complications? I am not having issues with the turbo or the trans, but I I'm thinking about longevity. I suspect the answer is that more cooling is probably beneficial, for both fluids, up to a point. heyou fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Apr 10, 2020 |
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Apr 10, 2020 14:39
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There's multiple schools of thought on transmission coolers. The one in the radiator has the benefit of helping the transmission fluid come up to temp quicker, especially on cold days. But it has the small risk of an internal failure that could result in coolant and ATF mixing, resulting in damage to the transmission. If you have the room for it I'd still run both coolers, but I'm paranoid like that, and I live in the loving desert.
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Apr 10, 2020 16:43
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heyou posted:The trans cooler piping is complicated, rusty and starting to seep from the rubber sections so I want to replace it all with stainless braided. The one that runs up the left side that is connect to the top of the transmission is hands down the biggest pain in the rear end job. To IOCs point, I'm not aware of any real amount of failures between the coolant/trans coolers in those rads, although it was WAY to common on Toyotas of a certain age (raspberry milkshake). I'd say use every trans cooler you can get your hands on if you're towing, but you put in a tractor enginer so lol, you're probably not. I'd run with the external trans cooler and if you have the space an external oil cooler. How'd you get that lump through customs? (assuming you are in the US)
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Apr 10, 2020 17:35
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Don't plan on towing, but I will see if I can come up with a more elegant hose and cooler mount situation. I have a big bumper and front steering guard, I think I could add some ducting over the top of the skid plate and mount the coolers there. The intercooler is mounted in front of the a/c condenser and rad, so I don't want to compromise any more airflow. And since I've got plenty of time now... Motronic posted:
I am indeed in the US! I came across a guy locally who imports and restores defenders. He'd imported the motor/trans for a customer of his who wanted their defender to be converted to automatic, but changed their mind. This guy has a small operation, and works exclusively on RHD trucks. He sold it to me complete, and was super cool about advice and parts sourcing for random stuff for the swap. It was a fun project, I'd never done something like a drive train swap before.
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Apr 11, 2020 00:20
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heyou posted:I am indeed in the US! I came across a guy locally who imports and restores defenders. He'd imported the motor/trans for a customer of his who wanted their defender to be converted to automatic, but changed their mind. This guy has a small operation, and works exclusively on RHD trucks. He sold it to me complete, and was super cool about advice and parts sourcing for random stuff for the swap. It was a fun project, I'd never done something like a drive train swap before. This totally sounds like a dude I used to talk to in Atlanta who's name I can't remember. He did great work and turned out some seriously impressive rigs. He got his 300 TDIs, man trans and pedal clusters in on a bill of lading as "tractor parts", which is why I asked 
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Apr 11, 2020 03:28
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Motronic posted:Yep. And alarms, etc, etc. As long as you can find the wire under there to trip the locks. That "something dumb about the 9th gen that pos/neg was backwards" was that they used a reverse polarity system! The door solenoids lock and unlock depending on which direction the electricity is flowing in their two wires. It's known as "Type C" in the car alarm world. What makes it extra dumb is that I insisted on making progressive unlock work. I couldn't find one example online of making it work on a Type C system, so I had to come up with my own. It took 3 relays and using the Avital's relay to in turn control 2 other relays, but it works! I posted more details in the electronics thread in DIY if anyone is interested.
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Apr 11, 2020 19:17
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Bodywork question: I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 with no front bumper. The impact bent the bumper up slightly and in towards the driver's side tire. Got a new bumper and driver's side bumper bracket. The problem I have is that the existing bracket is bent to the point you can't really get a tool in there to get the bolts off. Frame is fine, other bracket is fine. It only really needs to be bent back out a few inches. See pic below:  I have 10,000lb. chains, an oak tree, the old bumper, and a 4000lb. minivan (which van I would rather not use for this). Should I attempt to yank the bracket back? Should I attach the old bumper before doing so? Should I just take it to a shop on Tuesday and let them figure it out?
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Apr 11, 2020 19:33
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You can't get that with some series of extensions, wobbles and swearing? It would be safer.
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Apr 11, 2020 19:40
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You could do the tree thing, but if a shop is an option, I'd probably let them sort it out. It's one of those "if you're asking this question, you're probably not going to do it safely" kind of things.
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Apr 11, 2020 19:44
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Krakkles posted:You could do the tree thing, but if a shop is an option, I'd probably let them sort it out. It's one of those "if you're asking this question, you're probably not going to do it safely" kind of things. Very sound advice, and if it can wait a while, then after the stay at home orders are lifted is ideal. The other way to bend it back would be using leverage, if you happened to have a long, strong bar to wedge in there and push it back. What is bent usually will bend again easier. Or whack it with the BFH.
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Apr 11, 2020 19:57
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Yeah. I really need all ten fingers and it can wait. The van is a take-home for work (actually, really, essential), haven't even touched the truck in weeks. The bumper is taking up my whole couch though, lol. Next question, same vehicle. Steering rack is leaking. Is a re-man even worth it? It's a $200 difference in price between a new assembly and a re-man. This truck has an external steering fluid cooler, which is fine, but all the lines could do with replacing anyways.
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Apr 11, 2020 20:24
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madeintaipei posted:The van is a take-home for work (actually, really, essential), haven't even touched the truck in weeks. Why are you doing any work on a van you don't own?
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Apr 11, 2020 20:57
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Motronic posted:Why are you doing any work on a van you don't own? madeintaipei posted:Yeah. I really need all ten fingers and it can wait. The van is a take-home for work (actually, really, essential), haven't even touched the truck in weeks. The bumper is taking up my whole couch though, lol. Personally, spend more, do it once.
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Apr 11, 2020 21:01
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Motronic posted:This totally sounds like a dude I used to talk to in Atlanta who's name I can't remember. He did great work and turned out some seriously impressive rigs. I thought you were just ragging on the mighty 300tdi! It is in no way refined, and slower than the v8 was, but 24mpg vs 13 makes up for it.
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Apr 12, 2020 02:50
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heyou posted:I thought you were just ragging on the mighty 300tdi! It is in no way refined, and slower than the v8 was, but 24mpg vs 13 makes up for it. I absolutely was ragging on the 300tdi. And rovers in general.
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Apr 12, 2020 03:55
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^^^ This man has owned several Rovers, he has the right to rag on them. 
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Apr 12, 2020 14:02
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Recounting facts about Rovers is hardly ragging
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Apr 12, 2020 17:07
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Motronic posted:I absolutely was ragging on the 300tdi. And rovers in general. Any company that seems to not believe in captive nuts deserves all they ragging they get. Literally every nut on the stupid thing isn't captive.
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Apr 12, 2020 20:26
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I had the windshield on my 2007 Honda Fit Sport replaced last week, and noticed that he new windshield lacks the molding. There's a good 6-7mm gap around the whole window as a result of this. It does have some sort of black metal lining around it with a slot (presumably for molding to go into), but you can see the glue from the old molding all around the edge of the car where the window is seated. Nothing seems to be off otherwise and the car drove find the day after, but I thought this was odd, so I called the glass place. Their excuse (after ten minutes on hold) is that the molding on the Honda Fit differs from what they use as generic molding. The generic stuff expands from under the glass supposedly, while the stock molding is fit differently. Now, I haven't gone out today to see if there are any leaks or anything (it's pouring today), but even if there aren't: am I crazy for thinking this was a lovely way to do this? I'm concerned there may be new noises on the highway now that there's a gigantic valley between the windshield and the car. Is this a valid concern? The place told me to call back if I noticed any other issues or whatever, so I can do that at least, I'm just annoyed that it wasn't done properly in the first place.
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Apr 13, 2020 16:19
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Not crazy at all, there's a good chance that's going to introduce noises that shouldn't be there. They may be correct that the molding is different, and you may well need to pay more to get the correct molding, but leaving it off isn't ok.
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Apr 13, 2020 16:33
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Krakkles posted:Not crazy at all, there's a good chance that's going to introduce noises that shouldn't be there. They may be correct that the molding is different, and you may well need to pay more to get the correct molding, but leaving it off isn't ok. Yeah, the installer called back and basically said "the generic molding we use is more under the windshield. It's definitely there, that was the last job I did on Friday and I remember it. It's a bit different looking, but it's water tight and works. If they sent us back out to do it, we'd end up using the same molding so it wouldn't really change anything." Looking around on the internet, it looks like installing the proper molding involves removing the windshield. This is annoying. I'm gonna take it out on the highway at some point and see if the car is louder or anything. If it's not and it's water tight, I don't really care. It's just bothersome that this is how poo poo is done now.
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Apr 13, 2020 16:39
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How hard is it to weld in a new floor pan for someone who's never welded before? Better yet, how do I learn to weld?
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Apr 13, 2020 23:13
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Hmm. Does Ultimateforce still have a welding thread?
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Apr 13, 2020 23:19
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kid sinister posted:How hard is it to weld in a new floor pan for someone who's never welded before? Better yet, how do I learn to weld?
The usually suggested RIGHT WAY to learn is stick first, TIG is good, MIG is bad, but if you just want to be able to fix little stuff don't be afraid of MIG. You can certainly weld a floor pan back in and fix your car very well with a MIG. This is mostly an issue akin to manual vs automatic - if you learn stick (or TIG), you will learn good habits that will make MIG easy. If you learn MIG (first), you'll develop habits that are incompatible with the others. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Apr 13, 2020 |
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Apr 13, 2020 23:45
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Charles posted:Hmm. Does Ultimateforce still have a welding thread? Nah he's welding underwater in the pacific ocean now.
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Apr 14, 2020 01:46
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Krakkles posted:
I also am interested in learning to weld, and this is the progression I've read is the best. Problem is that I don't really have anything I'm interested in welding outside automotive stuff. This means TIG is the way to go for me to learn then... aren't TIGs expensive as hell though?
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Apr 14, 2020 05:25
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Well, as  I would say learn oxy-acetylene first - brazing, then welding - then stick & then MIG. TIG is a breeze after that.Definitely practice on scrap steel first - it'll aid in learning your PPE habits as well
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Apr 14, 2020 15:34
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A friend of mine bought a Ford C-max, unsure of the year. I know those are Focus-based, and I think I read that they have a DCT... is it the same DCT that's a disaster or is it a different unit since it's a hybrid? I can't find much online because this might actually be the only C-max they ever sold...
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Apr 15, 2020 15:30
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CornHolio posted:A friend of mine bought a Ford C-max, unsure of the year. I know those are Focus-based, and I think I read that they have a DCT... is it the same DCT that's a disaster or is it a different unit since it's a hybrid? I can't find much online because this might actually be the only C-max they ever sold... Going off of some posts on a cmax forum, the hybrid variants use an "eCVT" called the HF35. Apparently some earlier models (before 2013/14) had a manufacturing defect that would cause a shaft bearing to prematurely fail, but it doesn't appear to be the same "even if we replace it with all new components its just a matter of time before it happens again" issue plaguing the DPS6 in the Focus and Fiesta.
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Apr 15, 2020 16:24
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My 87 Dodge Ram Sweptline won't start. It usually has a little bit of problem starting cold after a few days that's fixed by pumping the gas a few times, but this doesn't seem to be that. I started it, drove it about a block, shut it off, then tried again in maybe 15 minutes. Sometimes when I turn the key nothing happens, sometimes I get a very faint whine, and sometimes the dashboard lights and gauges actually activate but when I crank it, it instantly dies. I tried jump starting it from another car and nothing changed. The battery seems to be alive since I get sparks from the jumper cables when it's hooked. Does anyone have an idea what this could be?
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Apr 15, 2020 22:33
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