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taqueso posted:
90s Solo Cup posted:This, please. Elmnt80 posted:Money and shipping from mitsubishi japan iirc.  Yeah I didn't repair anything, replacement is really the only thing you can do for this stuff. $230~ a pop, amazed that there was still stock of them to be honest. Note that the little fabric patch is blue on the old panels but gray on the new ones. That's what the sun does to the fabric, lightens it to that blue color.
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Apr 8, 2020 08:50
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What did you use on the door panels?
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KakerMix posted:
Aww. I dunno why I was hoping for some miracle-in-a-bottle. I'm also amazed you could find stuff like that. In the meantime, I'm wondering if I can retrofit a stock rear parking camera from a later LS430 to my 2001 model. There's even a nice little cutout on the trunk handle above the license plate. Not really keen on going aftermarket unless I absolutely have to.
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Apr 8, 2020 10:43
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I would be tempted to try an acetone wipe on the old panels and see how it turns out if they're junk anyways.
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Apr 8, 2020 16:44
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90s Solo Cup posted:Aww. I dunno why I was hoping for some miracle-in-a-bottle. I'm also amazed you could find stuff like that. Solution Finish ( https://www.autogeek.net/solution-finish-restorer-12oz.html ) can do some miracle stuff for oxidation for black and grey plastics, so maybe there could be something... except for those deep scratches, I don't think anything can fix that.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:55
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Swapped to summer tyres. Was bummed as the Quickjack apparently is too short, but just about managed to get it up safely by putting the jacks perpendicular to the car. Being a plug in hybrid, the weight distribution is closer to 50/50 so the Quickjacks had no trouble when lowering it. Took the opportunity to clean and protect all the wheel wells as well. Sprayed a ton of Bilt Hamber Atomac (Rust inhibitor) on everything. Also unplugged the second annoying beeper speaker so now the car hopefully shuts the gently caress up instead of beeping about everything.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:56
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I started my Cutlass after I-don't-remember-how-many months and drove it around the block a few times because the city tagged it as non-op and parked on the street too long.  It lit off with a little gas down the vent tube, no problem. I'm amazed at how well it runs on years-old gas, especially considering that it's high compression (10.25:1) Fast idle just after starting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6DKYPkJ4jE Normal idle after warming up a bit, and a blip of the throttle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6DKYPkJ4jE And a rip on the access road: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZkncVMs9iE It was wet out, and it's an open diff, so burnouts for days. You'll note that it never comes out of first gear. That's why it's parked. Something went wrong in the TH200-4R. Then I put it in the driveway, where it will stay for some time, most likely:  I've got a new car cover coming, since the one that was on it shredded in about 6 months, which probably helped attract code enforcement. Actually, I'm reasonably sure that they showed up mainly at the request of the realtors trying to sell 3 houses on my block. Happens every time. Usually, they don't really care much.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:58
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Darchangel posted:
Lol. I was on a first name basis with code enforcement for a while.
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Apr 8, 2020 18:22
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Lol. I was on a first name basis with code enforcement for a while. I've talked to them a few times. Thankfully, ours, or at least the ones I've dealt with, aren't assholes, just doing their job. They just tell me what I need to do to be in compliance, no fuss, and to be fair, they've, uh, not been in the wrong when citing me. Usually it's just that I left something out too long, or in the wrong spot, and a realtor trying to sell a house noticed it.
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Apr 8, 2020 18:57
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Darchangel posted:You'll note that it never comes out of first gear. That's why it's parked. Something went wrong in the TH200-4R. I'm sure you have no problem figuring it out, but I actually happened to have this laying around so I'll put it here anyway.  Fake edit: ouch, that quality.
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Apr 9, 2020 05:32
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Yay I got the '93 Hardbody to start up! It absolutely needed a fuel pump and then it needed a fuel pump fuse. I probably left the battery connected while installing or removing it at some point. Cool. The next thing I'm gonna go for is ditching this pushbutton start the PO installed. As of right now, it's the only way to get it to crank; when the key is turned to start the car, I can hear a relay click under the dashboard and that's it. I looked at how it's routed and one wire goes to the positive battery terminal, the other is poorly tapped into one of the wires leading into the clutch interlock relay. I'll check it out soon, but I'm pretty happy with the progress so far.
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Apr 10, 2020 17:29
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 says either the rubber stop in the clutch pedal rotted out (most likely scenario), or the clutch switch took a poo poo.... or maybe something more nefarious. Congrats on getting it running though! As for the fuse, it's possible the old pump had a short and popped it; I don't see replacing the fuel pump with the battery hooked up blowing a fuse.
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Apr 10, 2020 19:25
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Got some polishing done.  
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Apr 10, 2020 19:48
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Fitted the new wheels.
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Apr 11, 2020 20:29
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afen posted:Fitted the new wheels.  I figured the alley was frozen solid enough to get the car out for a drive. Turns out it was only kind of frozen and i had to get a little rowdy to get out. 
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Apr 11, 2020 21:00
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Swapped my summer tires on and tried out my new hitch carrier. I rides lower than I thought it would but it still works well. Not comfortable putting all 220lbs+ of tire on it though.
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Apr 11, 2020 21:33
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Might need some load helper air springs, or switch to a roof rack. e: those wheels look a little like the new wrangler wheels i've been lusting over.  I'm still torn on whether i'm going to cut my fenders for the oem jeep tire size. Powershift fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Apr 11, 2020 |
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Apr 11, 2020 21:41
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If I could put a roof rack on it (that's not just suction cups) I would 100% have it on there already. It looks worse in the picture because the front wheel are still on the ramps I use to get the jack under it. They're 18" Moda MD14s I bought off craigslist from another Challenger owner. I really wish the police charger steelies fit but they don't clear in the front without a 20mm or so spacer.
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Apr 11, 2020 21:59
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taqueso posted:Solution Finish ( https://www.autogeek.net/solution-finish-restorer-12oz.html ) can do some miracle stuff for oxidation for black and grey plastics, so maybe there could be something... except for those deep scratches, I don't think anything can fix that. How long does this stuff last? Tons of those plastic restorer things last a month, tops. I've had the best luck with 303 Aerospace Protectant which tends to last multiple months.
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Apr 12, 2020 00:55
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It's been a few months, I was just noticing how nice it looked a couple days ago. I think it is more permanent than just a coating, it dissolves the oxidation or something. For example, it smoothed out the pits on my 16 year old door handles. The handles weren't fixed completely, but noticeably. Checked the invoice, I bought it mid November so its been more like 5 months. It's snowing here now but I'll get some pictures later. The car is still only half-done, I need to buy more and finish it. But that means I can take a photo comparing nothing, 5 months old, newly applied, and 5 months old with a second application. taqueso fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Apr 12, 2020 |
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Apr 12, 2020 01:53
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KakerMix posted:How long does this stuff last? Tons of those plastic restorer things last a month, tops. I've had the best luck with 303 Aerospace Protectant which tends to last multiple months. I think 303 offgasses onto my windshield when used on my dash. It sure keeps it nice though!
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Apr 12, 2020 04:49
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 Got most of the interior behind the front doors stripped today in order to do some basic sound proofing. Almost got the headliner down as well but I scraped a finger open taking off the overhead light and called it a day after that. Will probably leave the rear seat back on as it really isn't blocking any surface and its nicer to lean on than the bare metal buckets where the seat cushions were.
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Apr 13, 2020 02:21
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taqueso posted:It's been a few months, I was just noticing how nice it looked a couple days ago. I think it is more permanent than just a coating, it dissolves the oxidation or something. For example, it smoothed out the pits on my 16 year old door handles. The handles weren't fixed completely, but noticeably. Will be interested in seeing this, but it sounds like its a wash between the two chemicals. Today I:   One of the most satisfying jobs to me is replacing rotors and pads at the same time. Always feels so good to stop afterward 
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Apr 13, 2020 02:44
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Finally got around to replacing friend's alternator. He swore up and down the belt got thrown when the alternator locked up, and was just chilling on the plastic undertray. I forgot it was a holiday, but managed to find an Autozone that was open. Grabbed a belt just to be safe. Got to where the car broke down.... belt remains all over the engine bay. Alternator wasn't locked up, but it didn't spin easily either. There was a shoestring of the belt chilling on the plastic undertray. When you did spin it, it made a horrible racket. Didn't realize Subaru put a Jesus nut on the back of the alternator, so we got to fish that out of the crevices of the intake manifold, because I'm a dumbass and didn't look at any kind of service manual first.  But his car is running again, on a junkyard OEM alternator, and the horrible howling noise is gone. Wondering if I can strip anything out of his old one, my lights are flickering at idle. Mine is a dealer-supplied reman (Subaru sticker on it, saying it was rebuilt by Mitsubishi Electric), his was original. Both 2003 Subarus, his is a WRX, mine's a Brokeback. They... look identical?  I guess I can look up rebuild kits and see what parts cross? If the diode pack is compatible, I'll swap them, then scrap his old alternator.I reminded him his timing belt is in similar shape and needs to be done ASAP... for the 500th time. The AC belt looks rough too, tho his AC hasn't worked in awhile.
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Apr 13, 2020 04:12
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STR posted:Finally got around to replacing friend's alternator. He swore up and down the belt got thrown when the alternator locked up, and was just chilling on the plastic undertray. I forgot it was a holiday, but managed to find an Autozone that was open. Grabbed a belt just to be safe. You need to put a post-it note on his engine cover that says, "Your timing belt probably just poo poo the bed. I told you so."
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Apr 13, 2020 05:33
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More tubes, so many tubes  
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Apr 14, 2020 01:51
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Big tubes! 
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Apr 14, 2020 03:32
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I like big tubes and I can not lie.
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Apr 14, 2020 03:37
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Gonna be honest here. Coulda used more tubes.
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Apr 14, 2020 14:09
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Gonna be honest here. I figure I need about 15 foot of aluminum 1”, 3 more foot of 5” stainless downpipe minimum, 6-8 foot of 2” wastegate tube, about 10 foot of some 4” aluminum for the water to air intercooler that I’ll run when street driving, and maybe some burn down tubes made of 1-1/4 aluminum running under the car to the trunk to hold oil/meth fumes. That should be all the solid tube. Another 35 foot of hose/tube for 16an(1”) fuel lines/radiator/burn down/intercooler water lines/vent. Unlike the internet, this car is in fact just a series of tubes
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Apr 14, 2020 20:08
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The S2000 induction system is not a big truck you just dump boost onto! It's a series of tubes!
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Apr 15, 2020 17:28
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I'm sure you have no problem figuring it out, but I actually happened to have this laying around so I'll put it here anyway. Oh, thanks. That's handy. I might have a manual that covers the 200-4R, but honestly haven't looked. The only thing I've checked so far is the governor weights - I learned that they could get hung up preventing the shift - but they appear to be OK. That gives me some more to go on. What's really weird is that initially, I lost only the 1-2. It would rev a lot higher, like you had it floored, then finally shift directly to 3rd. The TV cable is adjusted properly, according to the manual for an '80s Monte Carlo that it came out of (and the one for my former '81 Buick, for that matter. Only the TH200, not the overdrive, but same TV cable and procedure.) It operated fine for several years - though it always had a little trouble locking up the torque converter. Even when commanded manually via a toggle switch, it sometimes wouldn't. It was used, so may have had issues. The only changes I've made inside were to install the pressure switch and wiring form a TCI non-computer converter lockup kit. SFH1989 posted:Swapped my summer tires on and tried out my new hitch carrier. I rides lower than I thought it would but it still works well. Not comfortable putting all 220lbs+ of tire on it though. I don't like how low the cargo basket I have is when installed on my Crown Vic, so I'm probably going to modify the hitch tube to raise it up and tuck it in a bit more. Mainly by cutting the tube off at the basket, overlapping the cutoff piece with the remaining bit, and welding it back together. That'll raise it 2" and tuck it in by the length of the overlap. Basically, I'm "Z"-ing my cargo basket. I forgot to post that I installed a new reversing camera in our The one I originally installed was just mounted to a bracket with a pair of screws that would never stay tight. I also put it in the middle, which made on have to reach around it to operate the hatch release. I was going to just Loc-Tite the dang screws, but decided that the cameras were cheap enough on eBay and such that I bought one of the "wart" style that could be mounted in a couple different orientations. New (left) versus old:  They're mounted to the trim piece that goes across the hatch just below the glass, so no holes in the sheet-metal, which is nice.  Old pic from the previous install of the hatch without the trim:  Old camera was mounted like this:  Since the wart had a stud mount, a bracket was required. Engage Binky mode! CAD was required:   A bit of bendy, that was later unbent to closer to 90 degress:  Mine's not up to Binky standards. Not a single grinder was required. And attach, this time offset a bit to the right to snuggle up between the hatch release and the right-side license plate light:  In situ:  A little tweaking of the bracket angle and the angle of the camera, and I've got a decent imaging area:  Looks like it may be tilted a bit, though. Will look at that later, and adjust the guidelines in the radio's software as well.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:00
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You do realize I call mine Brokeback because it has 3 tires into the grave, right?  Speaking of, on my way home from work yesterday morning, noticed it was getting really sloppy on shifts and taking awhile to move once put into drive (5+ seconds - it's always had issues with taking a bit to go into drive, but not like this). Pulled the dipstick with the engine running once I got home, and.... nothing on it. Walked to 7-11 and massively overpaid for a couple of bottles of ATF, which barely brought it up to the very tip of the dipstick.  It looks like it's probably the tailshaft seal. MAYBE the pan. It's marking its territory worse than a feral cat at this point. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Apr 17, 2020 |
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Apr 17, 2020 09:36
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I thought you called it brokeback for a uhhhh... different reason. 
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Apr 17, 2020 09:43
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Elmnt80 posted:I thought you called it brokeback for a uhhhh... different reason. Because it celebrates all of Heath Ledger's filmography?
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Apr 17, 2020 15:17
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Elmnt80 posted:I thought you called it brokeback for a uhhhh... different reason. Same.
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Apr 17, 2020 18:31
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Is it because Subaru’s love head gaskets?
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Apr 17, 2020 19:26
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But their manual transmissions know how to quit you
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Apr 18, 2020 01:42
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I mean, the Jags are the Texans without a good QB and success. Last two stars of the team have both asked to leave. The Texans just trade them before they get to ask.
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Apr 18, 2020 04:55
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Elmnt80 posted:I thought you called it brokeback for a uhhhh... different reason. I meannnn... that has a little bit to do with it too. It's 75% because the car is halfway into the crusher, though. There's just so much fixin' that it needs that I'm just going to do the basics to keep it running (and the AC working) until something expensive breaks. I'm making quite a bit more at work now (converted to full time, had 3 raises in less than a year, with a 4th coming in August), paying off debts, etc, so by then my credit should hopefully be at the point where I can finance something in better shape without going to a BHPH lot when it finally dies. I only expected to get a year out of this without major work, I've already gotten 6 months out of it.Won't lie though, I love the underpowered wagon, even if a Prius ran away and hid from me in a 0-60 the other day (while probably getting triple the MPG...). I'd be fine getting another late 2nd gen that was in better shape (preferably with the 3.0), or a 3rd gen. I don't like how big they got after the 3rd gen tho; the 4th gen is definitely more SUV instead of a wagon. Also, first car I've owned with ABS, and this thing stops stupid well for such a heavy wagon (never knew these had 2 piston calipers up front until I did the brakes). Better than the Saturn did, but it has beefier brakes, beefier tires (much wider), and 4 wheel disc. angryrobots posted:But their manual transmissions know how to quit you Their autos aren't so great if they've been used and abused either. Or run low on fluid, probably repeatedly. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Apr 18, 2020 |
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Apr 18, 2020 05:28
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STR posted:paying off debts, etc, so by then my credit should hopefully be at the point where I can finance something Why would you want to pay off debts and then finance a car? You live within cycling/walking distance of work - just keep with the poo poo but lovable car that you actually own and start saving. If it breaks then cycle to work for a few days and either fix it or write it off and start again with a higher quality car bought from what you saved!
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Apr 18, 2020 07:00
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