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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Sir Lemming posted:Having never done this sort of thing before, I just wanted to check in and see if anyone has any warnings or general tips. Some things I'm wondering are, when can we plant them? (Haven't ordered yet.) Also, the stumps of the old trees will be ground, but the roots just kind of stay there I guess? Does that present any problems for the new trees or does it all just kinda take care of itself? (Probably a stupid question, but again, never done this before.) Plant them when you get them if you order now, or plant in early fall or early spring. You just don’t want to stress them by throwing them from the nursery into the oven of summer, or from a warm climate nursery into the freezer of winter. The roots are more of a problem for your shovel than they are for other plants, with one exception that probably doesn’t apply here that I will state anyway for completeness. If you cut down a tree that has a transmissible disease, and you’re planting something susceptible to that disease, you’d want to give the host and its pathogen some time to properly die. For example, a new citrus tree planted where a diseased tree was just cut down could catch the tristeza virus. Suckers could come up from the old rootstock and feed aphids, which transmit the virus, or the new tree could spontaneously root graft with the old one and let the virus in that way. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Apr 14, 2020 |
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Apr 14, 2020 00:27
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Platystemon posted:Plant them when you get them if you order now, or plant in early fall or early spring. You just don’t want to stress them by throwing them from the nursery into the oven of summer, or from a warm climate nursery into the freezer of winter. Cool, thanks. Waiting until fall seems like it'll probably happen anyway, with as long as we usually take to do things. The trees do all look healthy enough, to my untrained eye, so hopefully no issues there.
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Apr 14, 2020 01:01
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I. M. Gei posted:I finally planted the last of my espalier apple trees last night! You should plant them ASAP if they are bare root. It's a bit late in the season to plant bare root stuff, and if it is already leafing out it needed to be in the ground yesterday. Keeping them well watered will help.
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Apr 14, 2020 01:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You should plant them ASAP if they are bare root. It's a bit late in the season to plant bare root stuff, and if it is already leafing out it needed to be in the ground yesterday. Keeping them well watered will help. Not really my fault it’s late to plant them now, considering they didn’t arrive at my house until less than 2 weeks ago.  They were supposed to show up in FEBRUARY, but Stark Bros kept pushing back the shipping date for mysterious reasons until I finally called them one day and said “YO WHERE THE HOT gently caress ARE MY TREES?????”. They all still have a bunch of green on them though. And I delayed the trees I planted last month about the same amount of time as these ones and those are all doing amazing right now; all but one has huge leaves, and that last one is budding as we speak. EDIT: Stark Bros also told me that dormant bare root trees can survive about 2 weeks outside the ground. After that they probably need to be heeled in or something and planted ASAP, but I think I’ll be okay as long as I get them in the dirt tomorrow. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Apr 14, 2020 |
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Apr 14, 2020 07:15
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Made another little garden bed round the corner of my place Gunna probably put some ginger ,tumeric and yacon in there And have passion fruit on the trellis 
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Apr 14, 2020 12:20
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 I potted up 18 Celosia yesterday and I’ve got a poo poo ton more to do but drat they’re going to be pretty once they bloom!
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Apr 14, 2020 16:19
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Solkanar512 posted:
Niiiice all the celosia seeds we spread end of season are just starting to come out and it’s an insane amount of plants haha
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Apr 14, 2020 23:53
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I have en-dirted the last of my trees. Now all that’s left is to put on the mesh tree circles, pine bark mulch, and landscape edging. ... oh and I still have to finish building that trellis. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Apr 15, 2020 |
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Apr 15, 2020 07:46
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elgarbo posted:Wallet has it right on both counts - it's some sort of Optuntia (prickly pear) and it's definitely not getting enough light. Those new growths are growing long and thin seeking out the sun. Thanks for that. It gets a few hours of filtered direct light each morning but I guess that’s not enough?
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Apr 15, 2020 11:18
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The cats apparently do not give a gently caress about the chicken wire I just laid, as a couple of them have poo poo on it within 24 hours of me laying it.  I wonder if maybe I used too many landscape pins to tack it down in those areas, so it’s too flat against the ground for the cats’ paws to be bothered by it? The motion sprinkler is doing something, but unfortunately even at their lowest positions the legs make it too tall to hit any cats on the ground at close range. I NEED to get a pair of Yard Enforcers to cover the ground level, but that costs $140 and all the other poo poo I’ve had to buy for this project has already eaten a big hole into our bank account.  On the plus side, at least now I can scoop animal poo poo with no mask on without dry-heaving in weirdly over-the-top disgust as I am wont to do.
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Apr 15, 2020 11:35
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Red_Fred posted:Thanks for that. It gets a few hours of filtered direct light each morning but I guess that’s not enough? For a prickly pear cactus? No, not even close. Cacti in general crave sunlight; they need 6 to 8 hours of (preferably direct) sunlight minimum. If you can’t give them that then you may wanna look into a small grow light. Prickly pears are the most cold-tolerant and I think the most shade-tolerant of cacti species, but even they have limits.
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Apr 15, 2020 11:42
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I. M. Gei posted:For a prickly pear cactus? No, not even close. Cacti in general crave sunlight; they need 6 to 8 hours of (preferably direct) sunlight minimum. If you can’t give them that then you may wanna look into a small grow light. My (weird) Opuntia is doing really well right up against an east facing window but the only thing between it and the sun is some window frosting—there's a wide range of conditions that count as "filtered" that probably go all the way from "might as well be shade" to "nearly full sun". If it isn't already I would at least transition it (not at all once depending on how big of a shift that is) to being in front of your sunniest window.
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Apr 15, 2020 17:14
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I. M. Gei posted:Prickly pears are the most cold-tolerant and I think the most shade-tolerant of cacti species, but even they have limits. The prize for "most shade-tolerant cactus" is definitely going to go to one of the rainforest, tree-dwelling genera, maybe Rhipsalis or Schlumbergera (Christmas cactus, Thanksgiving cactus, Easter cactus).
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Apr 15, 2020 17:29
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How would a rainforest cactus even work? Don’t cacti hate large amounts of water?
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Apr 15, 2020 21:20
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They’re epiphytes, growing atop other plants. As you can imagine, this is good for drainage.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:29
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Easter/Thanksgiving/Christmas cacti are v cool plants
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Apr 15, 2020 22:12
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Since I’m not supposed to prune trees when rain is in the immediate forecast because the moisture can foster bacteria and fungus that may hurt the tree... how long does rain need to NOT be in the forecast before it’s safe to prune a tree? Also how long do I need to wait to prune after rain has just happened?
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Apr 16, 2020 05:33
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Ok I might just end up moving it outside once our lockdown is over. We have a semi-tropical climate here (never gets below 1C) so it should do well outside.
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Apr 16, 2020 07:17
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I. M. Gei posted:Since I’m not supposed to prune trees when rain is in the immediate forecast because the moisture can foster bacteria and fungus that may hurt the tree... how long does rain need to NOT be in the forecast before it’s safe to prune a tree? Ive heard hand-rubbing fresh cat poo poo on the cuts will accelerate the healing process I would just wait for things to dry off and humidity to decrease. Then wait for a spell of several days where it’s not going to rain. there’s not really a timetable but the longer the wound stays dry the better Red_Fred posted:Ok I might just end up moving it outside once our lockdown is over. We have a semi-tropical climate here (never gets below 1C) so it should do well outside. Definitely, it’ll take off. Just be careful in where you put it outside; the plant isn’t used to that intensity of sun. give it a little time to acclimate to the new light conditions by first placing it in partial shade for a couple weeks, otherwise the foliage will burn and the plant will fry
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Apr 16, 2020 11:07
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Oil of Paris posted:I would just wait for things to dry off and humidity to decrease. Then wait for a spell of several days where it’s not going to rain. there’s not really a timetable but the longer the wound stays dry the better My problem is it doesn’t look like there’s gonna be a stretch of no rain longer than about 2 or 3 days for at least the next couple of weeks. All I want to do is top the espalier apple trees I just planted. If I prune them and it ends up raining, could I maybe put like a Ziploc bag over the cuts with rubber bands and leave them like that until the rain passes? Obviously without the bags touching the cuts?
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Apr 16, 2020 12:04
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I’ve pruned trees while it was actually raining. It’ll be fine. There is definitely a ‘best’ time to prune stuff, but honestly you can do it anytime. I’ve never heard of this ‘don’t prune if it’s going to rain’, and while I can see the logic, it seems to forget that wood is very wet inside a tree and a tree is basically a giant water pump  Putting a treecondom over the end seems like a good way to grow some fungus or other nasty as you’d create a perfect warm, humid area right on top of the fresh wound.
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Apr 16, 2020 12:21
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I. M. Gei posted:If I prune them and it ends up raining, could I maybe put like a Ziploc bag over the cuts with rubber bands and leave them like that until the rain passes? Obviously without the bags touching the cuts? The issue isn’t the rain, it’s the humidity that accompanies it and helps bad poo poo grow. Literally the worst thing to do is to put a moisture trapping bag over a new cut. Kaiser is right that you’re trying to prevent fungus or bacteria, and a bag is basically giving them a swank hotel
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Apr 16, 2020 12:26
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I would just wait the two weeks.
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Apr 16, 2020 12:36
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Just got the swamp mallows and scarlet beebalm that I ordered like a month ago. Gonna try to make something out of this swampy garden bed I could never find a use for.
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Apr 16, 2020 16:06
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Is there a good resource for identifying weeds by picture? We just moved into our house a few months ago there's lots of stuff is cropping up in the backyard. I'm not sure what to pull and what to leave alone so it might bloom later.
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Apr 16, 2020 18:19
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amethystbliss posted:Is there a good resource for identifying weeds by picture? We just moved into our house a few months ago there's lots of stuff is cropping up in the backyard. I'm not sure what to pull and what to leave alone so it might bloom later. What's a weed and what's not is often a very personal thing and depends on location (the grass is what I want to grow in the lawn, but a weed when it gets into a bed/I don't mind oxalis in the spring in my beds but I hate it in the lawn) but this is a pretty decent site it looks like: https://preen.com/weeds Googling 'common weeds [your state]' will probably help you find something from your local extension office.
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Apr 16, 2020 18:25
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amethystbliss posted:Is there a good resource for identifying weeds by picture? We just moved into our house a few months ago there's lots of stuff is cropping up in the backyard. I'm not sure what to pull and what to leave alone so it might bloom later. Google Lens is actually pretty good for this!
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Apr 16, 2020 22:35
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Fitzy Fitz posted:Just got the swamp mallows and scarlet beebalm that I ordered like a month ago. Gonna try to make something out of this swampy garden bed I could never find a use for. I bought a place recently and as things have started waking up I have realized that A) whoever planted my gardens previously had awful taste in plants and B) they didn't realize that plants are different heights and you probably shouldn't plant a row of (ugly) shrubs at the front of the bed and (ugly) ground cover right against the foundation. I just ordered a bunch of plants for the gardens (the nursery I ordered from says that plants are shipping to my hardiness zone "within 3 weeks"  ) so I suspect I will spend the next three weeks doing a lot of digging.That aside I'm on a fairly busy street and I'd like to plant some trees dotted down the south side of my fence to create a partial barrier so I'm trying to find appropriate varieties that are relatively thin and will grow to a decent height fairly quickly but aren't going to grow into cell phone towers—I'm definitely not after an unbroken wall of something like arborvitae as I don't want to block out all of the sunlight from the gardens and the windows, particularly in winter, so probably deciduous, and if I'm being picky I'd rather have a mixture of different trees rather a row of a single type. I realize that's a laundry list of requirements but do we have any tree experts lurking around that might have some recommendations for zone 6? I've been looking around online and the sheer variety is super overwhelming.
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Apr 16, 2020 22:35
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Meant to post this yesterday but of course I got drunk and forgot Here's my first post in this thread, a pic with our new purchase of Harry Lauder's walking stick tree, one of the first plantings we made at our house.  The growth habit and cultivation history of it was so fascinating to me. it was the genesis of me getting into weird and unusual plants Here he is three years later with some neighbors. Happy garden birthday homie: 
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Apr 17, 2020 00:48
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Tell me more about your walking stick plant-I've never heard of it but it looks cool as grits. A very pretty garden! I Love your foxgloves and poppies. Are those peonies in the front left? You absolutely positively cannot grow peonies here (except maaaaaaaaybe some weird tree peonies? I went down a rabbithole about it a few years ago and have forgotten it all now) and I love them. What's the purple-flowered shrub in the back too? and the thing with the tall yellow flower spikes in the back left? And the blue ones at the bottom right? Probably all things I can't grow here, I'm sure. Basically can you just label all your plants because I love them all. Wallet posted:I bought a place recently and as things have started waking up I have realized that A) whoever planted my gardens previously had awful taste in plants and B) they didn't realize that plants are different heights and you probably shouldn't plant a row of (ugly) shrubs at the front of the bed and (ugly) ground cover right against the foundation. I just ordered a bunch of plants for the gardens (the nursery I ordered from says that plants are shipping to my hardiness zone "within 3 weeks"
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Apr 17, 2020 02:03
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I've been shepherding some volunteer redbuds, and they've really taken off pretty quickly. They're good trees. I'd get a Japanese maple or saucer magnolia if I were paying money though. I like a good crape myrtle, but I rarely see one (a good one). Fitzy Fitz fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Apr 17, 2020 |
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Apr 17, 2020 03:03
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I am sick to my loving stomach having to ask this now, but... how bad is re-topping my espalier apple trees another 12’” lower than they’re at now going to gently caress them? Especially now that the 12” I have to cut off are the only parts with leaves on them, since I already pruned off all of the new leaves and branches growing below that?  Thankfully I don’t have to do this to ALL of my trees......... just about half of them. gently caress 
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Apr 17, 2020 03:18
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Post photos. If they’ve already invested in a major flush and now you’re going to ask them to sprout again from the trunk and heal the wound you made, that’s pretty bad. Just‐planted trees might not have enough energy to recover from that. Consider letting them go wild this year, building a root system and storing energy in it in the fall. Then cut them to where you want them in winter pruning. You lose training time for the espalier form, but the trees will definitely live. They may well outpace the alternative, where they would be stunted by by being cut back now.
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Apr 17, 2020 06:28
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Platystemon posted:Consider letting them go wild this year, building a root system and storing energy in it in the fall. Then cut them to where you want them in winter pruning. So I CAN wait until winter to cut them back? THANK GOD! I was wondering if I might be able to do that. Yeah I can definitely wait a bit longer for the espalier to take shape if I have to, no sweat.
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Apr 17, 2020 08:46
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Yeah. Plants aren’t stupid. Well, they are, but they have effective biochemical feedback systems. Growing tall is generally a winning strategy, so your apple is quite content to grow its top branches. Plants aren’t fatalistic. If forced to, by the loss of foliage higher up, they will sprout more down below. On a biochemical level, what’s actually happening is the inverse: foliage produces hormones that continually suppress growth elsewhere on the tree. Less leaves means less hormone means growth that was suppressed no longer is. Mature trees can sometimes have trouble if topping was drastic, but we’re talking chainsaw murder here. Here is a catalpa sprouting from a downed log. As you can see, it has taken to to its new lot in life.   Here’s something more similar to what you’re doing, an apple that was budded with six different varieties and sold as an espalier start.  Four of the six branches never broke dormancy. They’re dead. Why? Well, there was bark damage, and the tree sat at the nursery till it went on clearance at the end of the season. The poor thing was desiccated and only a couple branches were able to pull through. Here’s a closeup of the middle branches showing what the tree is doing to get over its loss.  It’s throwing shoots off the trunk. If all six branches had lived, this wouldn’t be happening. The tree would cover the established branches in leaves, and that vegetation would hormonally suppress growth elsewhere. The plan now is to let those branches grow all year and graft onto them next spring. The two on the right are well‐placed. Two on the left are somewhat less so, being too close to the surviving branches, but look at the one in the middle. I think it’s coming from the Fuji side of the graft union, not from the host. That branch is only ninety‐nine percent dead. With luck, a replacement Fuji branch will grow from that one tiny bud. Anyway, if you top your apple tree, it will attempt to sprout from the trunk. If you top it now, it will have little energy to work with. If you do it next spring, it will have a full store of energy and nowhere to put it other than in shoots from the trunk. They’ll grow, and they’ll grow fast. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Apr 17, 2020 |
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Apr 17, 2020 10:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Tell me more about your walking stick plant-I've never heard of it but it looks cool as grits. Haha absolutely! Apologize in advance for a big rear end post. Harry Lauder's Walking Stick is a hazelnut sport Corylus avallena "Contorta." It grows in an insanely contorted fashion that looks very cool all year round and just amazing once it goes deciduous, especially if it catches the snow. My first post in this thread has a pic of a mature one during the winter. Used to be, they couldn't get it to grow on its own so they were grafting it to rose rootstock and you had to be very diligent in destroying suckers so that the rose wouldn't take over the hazelnut. Luckily, and I didn't realize this until later, my variety and now most of the sold cultivars are now on their own roots, so you don't have to keep an eternal watchful eye on them anymore. "Proven Winners" is the nursery that provides them on their own rootstock. Extremely cool plant, lots of people have literally just stopped in their tracks and been like "what in the gently caress is THAT?" once they see it lol. I highly recommend picking one up if you can find one at a good price, because a lot of garden centers know how cool they are and will try to charge you out the rear end for one. But they grow pretty quickly, if not constantly beset by deer like mine, so buy the smallest and cheapest one you can find. Also beware of those loving Japanese beetles which LOVE to eat the leaves. I kill hundreds every June once they emerge, otherwise the leaves will get pretty well hosed up and won't look good for the rest of the season. Gets about 8 feet tall with similar spread if you just let it grow unchecked. Here's a pretty accurate pic I found of just how wild the interior looks with all the branches twisting into themselves:  Alright now for the rest! We have poppies in another section to the right that didn't get in this pic, but they haven't bloomed yet. Those little red guys are actually anemonies, which we also have in blue and pink kind of scattered throughout the whole front garden. That foxglove is the baby of the last foxglove I'll ever have to buy rofl. He grew from seed and I thought that was cool, so last year we took seeds from another one sprinkled them everywhere. I think there are no poo poo like twenty of them growing up now so next year will be insane. I'll have to get a pic because it really cracks me up just how many there are. Those are peonies, can't remember the specific variety but they're a nice pink and white bloom and this is the first year I think that they'll get really big. Surprised you can't get them to grow! Are you zone 9? I've heard of people down there overwintering them by digging them up or keeping them in pots to bring in and chill for the winter so that they get the requisite amount of cold. The purple shrub is a dwarf form lilac. I believe the cultivar is "Boomerang," so it'll half-rear end bloom again during the summer and then one more time in the fall. Love that plant and only gets to be around five feet tall so it doesn't take over like lilacs are usually keen to do. The tall yellow bloom is Baptisia sphaerocarpa, probably becoming one of my favorite types of plants. Tough as nails, beautiful architectural foliage, striking leaf and flower color that can tolerate whatever neglect you can throw at them. I'll try and get a closer pic of it for you because I remember you asking about them at some point before. Can't say enough good things about baptisia, they're just incredible. we also have a blue variety (australis) which is much smaller growth habit The blue flowers are bachelor's buttons which are very beautiful but are 100% a loving malevolent weed. Wife scattered seeds from a plant or two we had last year and those things are loving EVERYWHERE now. We're deadheading hard this year and will only let one or two go to seed, tops. We're gonna keep that in the annual section rofl. Despite their spread I still really like them because the flowers look so interesting and now that they're blooming, they basically won't stop for the rest of the season. We've already given away several bouquets of them. Well this post is even longer than I thought it would be lol, so here's a quick rundown of the other plants in the pic, most of which haven't bloomed yet: Oakleaf hydrangea (Ruby Slippers cultivar) Seaholly (Eryngium of some type) Hardy lantana Variegated purple and white phlox Red bee balm Purple iris (also a loving weed which will taste my hanzo steel after this season) Blue speedwell Giant allium Oil of Paris fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Apr 17, 2020 |
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Apr 17, 2020 11:50
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I had the opportunity to buy a contorted filbert of at least that size for thirteen dollars on clearance last year and didn’t take it. I don’t know why I’m admitting that. I didn’t have a place for the tree, but even so, it’s embarrassing to pass up a deal that good.
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Apr 17, 2020 11:59
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Platystemon posted:I had the opportunity to buy a contorted filbert of at least that size for thirteen dollars on clearance last year and didn’t take it. Yeah that's an insanely good price, should've bought it just to return to life and resell to someone else for quadruple at least lol. I think we paid like $40 originally, and he wasn't the most expensive of the selection by a good clip iirc. We picked him because he had a nice four trunk habit which has maintained pretty well for the most part
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Apr 17, 2020 12:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I am not at all sure about zone 6, but crepe myrtles are great, fairly quick growing small/medium trees with year round interest. Japanese maples are too, and some of the seed grown, unimproved plain ones are actually fairly fast growing too. Japanese/saucer magnolias are also nice medium trees with pretty flowers in early spring. There are other cool flowering trees too-buckeyes, redbud and dogwoods come to mind but are slower growing. Fruit trees like apples/peaches/plums/pears/ornamental cherries might be an option too-some can be fairly fast growing. Thanks for this! Having somewhere to at least start helps a lot and holy crap are there some pretty crepe myrtles and dogwoods that are zone 6 hearty. I think I might put in some river birch as well.
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Apr 17, 2020 13:48
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Oil of Paris posted:Those are peonies, can't remember the specific variety but they're a nice pink and white bloom and this is the first year I think that they'll get really big. Surprised you can't get them to grow! Are you zone 9? I've heard of people down there overwintering them by digging them up or keeping them in pots to bring in and chill for the winter so that they get the requisite amount of cold. There are a few old fashioned peonies that I think do okay in the deep south, (festiva maxima is the one I can remember) but I think it's just too hot and swampy here on the coast for them to make it through the summer, and they take a few years to get established. Auburn was trialing some tree peonies for the south but I can't find any updated info on that. That said, I've never actually tried to grow them here, so maybe I'll give it a shot sometime. I'm unfortunately a lazy gardener that isn't super likely to remember to lift and refrigerate my peonies overwinter. If they can't make it without regular intervention, they're probably not gonna make it in my yard. I planted foxgloves once and hoped they'd be perrennial, but no dice. I did plant a chinese foxglove that was pretty but got kind of invasive so I pulled it, but now that I know how rampant it will run I might try it again. I'm not sure if hazel will grow here or not. I looked into it a few years ago to plant for nuts, and it seemed like it was sort of marginal, for making nuts down here. But if I just wanted a crazy tree and didn't care if it made nuts, that might work-super cool plant in any case! I saw a weeping baldcypress once that had a similar thing going on. Does the baptisia rebloom or is it a one time thing? Platystemon posted:Here is a catalpa sprouting from a downed log. As you can see, it has taken to to its new lot in life. This is super cool. I've heard catalpa roots insanely readily, and someone once told me they used to split it for fence posts (it's very rot resistant) and the fence posts would sprout, root, and grow into new catalpa trees. I never believed it, but seeing that clearly cut at both ends log sprouting might have changed my mind  Fitzy Fitz posted:I've been shepherding some volunteer redbuds, and they've really taken off pretty quickly. They're good trees.
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Apr 17, 2020 13:53
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