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Nevets posted:Yeah, the blade height shouldn't be moving on it's own after you've locked it in place. You mentioned it's vibrating, how much? The manual mentions excessive vibrations might be caused by the blade tilt not being locked in. The blade tilt is definitely locked. I don't have any experience with table saws, but it doesn't feel like a significant vibration. Just sorta like what I'd expect from an operating saw. Can't figure out how to embed imgur video so here's a link https://imgur.com/BklEgZz
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Apr 12, 2020 03:33
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Is the blade actually dropping or just the handwheel spinning? The blade should not drop and if it is I would follow up with the manufacturer. There are workarounds but if it’s a fairly new saw they should fix it. If it’s just the handwheel spinning, that’s annoying but tightening the screw that holds it on looks like it may help.
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Apr 12, 2020 04:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is the blade actually dropping or just the handwheel spinning? The blade should not drop and if it is I would follow up with the manufacturer. There are workarounds but if it’s a fairly new saw they should fix it. If it’s just the handwheel spinning, that’s annoying but tightening the screw that holds it on looks like it may help. yeah, the blade is dropping. that's why i noticed the wheel was spinning. I'll call their customer service number on monday.
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Apr 12, 2020 05:08
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fart store posted:The blade tilt is definitely locked. I don't have any experience with table saws, but it doesn't feel like a significant vibration. Just sorta like what I'd expect from an operating saw. Doesn't the red lever on the wheelshaft there, swing over to lock your setting? Because that's what it's for.
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Apr 12, 2020 16:17
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I need to open up one stud bay so I can penetrate facing the wall from the bottom and penetrate the top to install some conduit. I'm going to have pros drywall the whole room soon in the future. What tool do I need to essentially plunge cut the drywall out? Perfect would be the ability to chalk a line and cut a vertical strip of the drywall out, centered on the framing members so that the later contractor can reinsert that piece and mud/tape over it. How should I avoid/deal with the drywall screws?
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Apr 12, 2020 18:38
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Bonus question: What is the magic name I need to search for this metal with two holes? My previous owner liked to use them as fastener shims for his hand-built fence because he didn't believe in the "measure twice, cut once" school.
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Apr 12, 2020 18:47
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Bracket?
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Apr 12, 2020 18:49
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Hed posted:What tool do I need to essentially plunge cut the drywall out? Jab/pad saw if doing it by hand, oscillating multi-tool if you want something powered. Hed posted:Perfect would be the ability to chalk a line and cut a vertical strip of the drywall out, centered on the framing members so that the later contractor can reinsert that piece and mud/tape over it. How should I avoid/deal with the drywall screws? A studfinder will, er, find the studs for you, and will often have metal detectors in them too, but a decent magnet will also do the job at finding screws for you.
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Apr 12, 2020 18:56
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Hed posted:I need to open up one stud bay so I can penetrate facing the wall from the bottom and penetrate the top to install some conduit. I'm going to have pros drywall the whole room soon in the future. Straightedge and a utility knife to cut drywall. Make multiple passes, to get through the paint/paper/plaster. The removed piece of drywall is waste; don't be afraid to break it into pieces while removing it. Drywall screws...I don't actually know the correct answer here, but my inclination would be to break the drywall around the screws, then use some bolt cutters to cut the screws as flush as possible with the stud. I guess you could also use a pair of pliers to unscrew the screws (a screwdriver is out because the screwheads are full of paint), but that sounds tedious. Wear a dust mask and goggles, keep the area clear, and have a vacuum ready; drywall demolition creates a godawful lot of dust.
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Apr 12, 2020 18:57
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Hed posted:Bonus question: Ja, strap or bracket. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Building-Hardware-Metal-Straps/N-5yc1vZaqta
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Apr 12, 2020 19:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Straightedge and a utility knife to cut drywall. Make multiple passes, to get through the paint/paper/plaster. The removed piece of drywall is waste; don't be afraid to break it into pieces while removing it.
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Apr 12, 2020 19:40
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Hed posted:Bonus question: 'mending plate' is the magic phrase
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Apr 12, 2020 20:03
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PainterofCrap posted:Doesn't the red lever on the wheelshaft there, swing over to lock your setting? Because that's what it's for. No, the red lever only locks the bevel.
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Apr 12, 2020 20:09
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I have some humidity damage on my bathrooms walls. I just repainted, but you can see the paint cracking (the brown was the previous paint). Is this just a matter of chipping away all the old layers of paint and then painting again, or could be there be any sort of damage to the walls? If so how would I know? It's been like this for years, though I never noticed it until someone pointed it out.
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Apr 12, 2020 21:04
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actionjackson posted:I have some humidity damage on my bathrooms walls. I just repainted, but you can see the paint cracking (the brown was the previous paint). Is this just a matter of chipping away all the old layers of paint and then painting again, or could be there be any sort of damage to the walls? If so how would I know? It's been like this for years, though I never noticed it until someone pointed it out. Test for lead, sand the surface until it's smooth, clean with TSP, two coats of primer, two coats of paint. It looks like you didn't do enough prep before painting last time.
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Apr 12, 2020 21:39
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devicenull posted:Test for lead, sand the surface until it's smooth, clean with TSP, two coats of primer, two coats of paint. thanks - what's TSP? can I just use a scraper to remove the paint instead actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Apr 12, 2020 |
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Apr 12, 2020 22:07
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My backyard has a makeshift fence the previous owner made out of cinder blocks and pallets. I want to replace it with something nicer, are those premade fence sections at Home Depot fine or should I look into something else?
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Apr 12, 2020 23:03
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actionjackson posted:thanks - what's TSP? It's a surface prep solution/degreaser https://www.bhg.com/decorating/paint/how-tos/how-to-prep-paint/
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Apr 12, 2020 23:04
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Toebone posted:My backyard has a makeshift fence the previous owner made out of cinder blocks and pallets. I want to replace it with something nicer, are those premade fence sections at Home Depot fine or should I look into something else?
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Apr 13, 2020 00:30
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I bought a newly-constructed house, and two things have come up that I would like to ask this thread: 1) The Comcast guy had to route a coax cable through the siding, and he did not use a bushing or caulk. There's just a completely unprotected hole in the side of my house with a wire going through it. For the time being, I have taped a plastic bag around it to keep the rain off until I can come up with a permanent solution. Is silicone caulk good enough? I'd rather have something more aesthetically-pleasing like a bushing + caulk, but I think I would have to pull the wire out of the wall in order to attach a bushing, and I don't want to gently caress it up. Does anyone know of a bushing that can be attached once the wire is already in place? gently caress Comcast, by the way. 2) The microwave doubles as a vent hood, and it vents outside. The duct has a cover on it to prevent, I don't know, backflow of air and bird nests I suppose, and it flaps in the wind making this VERY audible banging sound at even the slightest breeze. It's driving us nuts. I've glued some soft material to it in an attempt to dampen the noise, but it's still loud. The duct cover is really a cheap POS (although the ones offered at Home Depot don't look any better). Does anyone have a recommendation for a specific type of duct cover they use that is not noisy in the wind?
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Apr 13, 2020 15:01
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1) yes caulk, and yes gently caress Comcast. Though my understanding is that basically all cable installers (and satellite TV, etc.) are just looking to do their job as quickly and as easily as possible, aesthetics be damned. As an alternative to a bushing, you might paint the cable the same color as the wall, so it's less visible. 2) I'm not any kind of expert on this, but I wouldn't expect the kind of noise you describe from even cheap parts. The only covers I know of that move are the kind that rotate to face into the wind, so that stuff can't blow into the exhaust vent. Have you looked at the rotation mechanism? What's causing the movement? It might be a defective part, or it might just be installed incorrectly.
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Apr 13, 2020 15:17
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:2) I'm not any kind of expert on this, but I wouldn't expect the kind of noise you describe from even cheap parts. The only covers I know of that move are the kind that rotate to face into the wind, so that stuff can't blow into the exhaust vent. Have you looked at the rotation mechanism? What's causing the movement? It might be a defective part, or it might just be installed incorrectly. There's no rotation mechanism. It's a 4" pipe with a metal cover on a basic hinge. If it helps to visualize it, it comes out of the side wall rather than the roof.
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Apr 13, 2020 15:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:2) I'm not any kind of expert on this, but I wouldn't expect the kind of noise you describe from even cheap parts. FWIW I have this same issue with my hood vent, main floor bathroom vent and my mom's hood vent  I'd be interested in any tips for reducing the noise.
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Apr 13, 2020 15:36
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LargeHadron posted:I bought a newly-constructed house, and two things have come up that I would like to ask this thread: Yes. You can use clear (it goes on white) or you can get flexible paintable caulk & touch it up to match. Typically, tey make the hole big enough for the coax only, not the fitting as well, so you;d have to spliace it to put a grommet on. ... LargeHadron posted:2) The microwave doubles as a vent hood, and it vents outside. The duct has a cover on it to prevent, I don't know, backflow of air and bird nests I suppose, and it flaps in the wind making this VERY audible banging sound at even the slightest breeze. It depends on where it's mounted. If it's in the soffit (mounted horizontally) you can pull the cover off and see about substituting a generic cover (such as a Broan) but first install screening to keep wasps etc out. Most hardware stores sell a pre-made round screen that's easier to remove & claen or replace periodically. It it's wall-mounted: depending on the wind exposure, you can do the same as with a soffit mount, or go with one with a different door style - though you will have to keep an eye on it to keep it clean so it doesn't stick open/closed
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Apr 13, 2020 15:42
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LargeHadron posted:2) The microwave doubles as a vent hood, and it vents outside. The duct has a cover on it to prevent, I don't know, backflow of air and bird nests I suppose, and it flaps in the wind making this VERY audible banging sound at even the slightest breeze. It's driving us nuts. I've glued some soft material to it in an attempt to dampen the noise, but it's still loud. The duct cover is really a cheap POS (although the ones offered at Home Depot don't look any better). Does anyone have a recommendation for a specific type of duct cover they use that is not noisy in the wind? I have some that look like this, and are quite new:  and exactly the same thing happens, and it's also driving me nuts. My assumptions are a) it's happening when there's a breeze through the house, probably from the open chimneys, i.e. the gusts of wind outside come into the house through some unwanted opening, and is exiting through the bathroom vents, pushing the flaps open with each gust and making noise as they close b) it will go away when I (eventually) block up and/or put flue covers on the chimneys If (b) turns out to be wrong then who fukken knows.
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Apr 13, 2020 18:19
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LargeHadron posted:I bought a newly-constructed house, and two things have come up that I would like to ask this thread: Just caulk it, but don't use a 100% silicone. It's not paintable. Even if you don't care to paint over it now you don't want it to interfere whenever you get around to painting your exterior. An acrylic urethane would be your best bet.
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Apr 13, 2020 18:54
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The dark trim on my workshop is peeling in some areas. Plan is to scrape the paint, hose it down, let that dry, then repaint. I have some old paint left over from when I originally painted the workshop; it's pretty thick stuff now (I assume it's been very slowly drying in the can). Any reason why I shouldn't re-use it? I did a quick test and it still spreads, it's just kinda gooey. It's only been ~5 years since I painted the trim in the first place, so I don't really expect to get a ton of life out of the replacement paint in any case. The trim in question is both getting afternoon sun, and also quite exposed to wind and rain. Other parts of the workshop are fine, and I originally painted everything altogether, so I'm inclined to blame exposure instead of a bad prior paint job in this case.
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Apr 13, 2020 20:32
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I’ve probably done it on this thread already, but I’d recommend Benjamin Moore Aura for exterior paint. It’s relatively expensive but nearly 3 years in on my house and even on the side with direct afternoon sun and rain/snow it looks more or less newly painted.
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Apr 13, 2020 21:27
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My point is that I already have the paint. I don't want to buy more. (it's Behr Premium Plus Ultra, which when I bought it scored similarly to Sherwin-Williams, as I recall).
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Apr 13, 2020 22:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:
I agree, and it's obviously due to some kind of pressure differential that allows the flap to blow up then clank shut. My over-the-range microwave hood actually has a metal flapper at the outlet in addition to the flap on the exterior vent so there's an extra chance of a clank. I assume this is a builder-grade product issue, and there are better vents out there.
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Apr 13, 2020 22:53
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Hed posted:I need to open up one stud bay so I can penetrate facing the wall from the bottom and penetrate the top to install some conduit. I'm going to have pros drywall the whole room soon in the future. An oscillating tool will make short work of drywall. You can use a keyhole saw as well, or a utility knife if you have a lot of time. If you're just going to replace the piece anyway, then make a small hole in between studs and enlarge it horizontally until you find the studs. You only want to take a drywall section out in once piece if you're going to be reusing it as the patch. Use a utility knife to cut away a bit of the drywall on top of the studs. Ideally, you won't run into many screws or nails. Pull the nails with needlenose pliers. Unscrew the screws with a screw gun. You may need to dig out each cross on the screw with a utility knife first.
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Apr 13, 2020 23:26
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mr.belowaverage posted:I assume this is a builder-grade product issue, and there are better vents out there. Possibly, though the sparkies I had round generally put in good stuff. Somewhat by their nature they need to react to light breezes from the inside, since that's how they open when the fan turns on, so the only thing I could think to reduce the issue directly would be a cover that closes more quietly (maybe soft closing?), or one that seals tight when unpowered. Other than that I think you gotta seal the house up more, or go with a fixed cover and deal with another way for the wind to get in. The problem will also probably go down when I have internal doors fitted, though that doesn't help your kitchen vent much.
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Apr 13, 2020 23:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My point is that I already have the paint. I don't want to buy more. If the smell didn't run you off when you opened the can then it should be fine to use. Mix in a bit of water to get the consistency back right and pour it through a strainer if needed.
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Apr 14, 2020 00:37
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Sounds good, thank you!
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Apr 14, 2020 01:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:Possibly, though the sparkies I had round generally put in good stuff. I think even trades that install 'good' stuff use the basic off-the-shelf calibre. When you want really high-end, you need to specify it. Not to disparage your contractors or your home! I definitely think there is some stiffer and/or soft-close options out there, but beyond the big box stores I'm not sure where to look, and not interested in in-depth Google sleuthing. I am, however, now thinking of adding relays and solenoids that prime or release the vent flaps only when the appliance is powered. And maybe some thin foam tape on the contact edges. As far as tightening up the houses; this is in the works for my disaster-mitigation home reno project but slowly. My house is 130+ years old, and my mom's is just over 100. They are not exactly 'tight'.
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Apr 14, 2020 17:27
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 gently caress  how do I fix this?
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Apr 15, 2020 22:18
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Is that a countertop? You can probably epoxy the chips back in, and maybe use some kind of putty + sanding to fill in the cracks? Or maybe you can get white epoxy (or white coloring for regular epoxy) and use that as the fill.
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Apr 15, 2020 22:42
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Hi there DIY friends. I have a small TFR project I'm considering, but my questions are mostly wood related. I want to install a small section of accessory rail onto the wooden forend of a lever action rifle so I can use a light on it. There are commercial options to replace the forend with metal or plastic with mounting points but I was hoping to keep the aesthetic and not spend the money. I just want a reality check to see if this is feasible and maybe some suggestions. If you aren't a gun person and don't know what I'm talking about, here's a picture. Basically I want to put the black bit of plastic on the front of the wood.  Like so: (I'll have to relieve the back to fit it over the barrel band)  However it's pretty thin. Like barely a quarter inch. The wood is "walnut" but I think it is stained birch.  My initial thought was to use wood screws and just epoxy the rail to the wood, with the epoxy doing most of the work. But the rail has to be easily and repeatably removable, and nothing can be proud of the wood once it's removed, because the barrel band which holds the handguard onto the gun has to slide past it. It doesn't need to hold zero or go back to exactly the same angle since it's just for a light. So then I thought maybe tee nuts. But there isn't really room for me to hammer those in from the inside of the handguard or inlet the wood, and they probably need to be flush on the inside. Then I thought, a brass threaded nut insert. Something like this? The bolts that came with this thing are 10-24, I haven't been able to find an insert that's only 1/4" long that's meant for wood. I found one made for plastic, maybe I could epoxy it in? Or I could just cut down the length of one of the longer ones that's meant for wood so that it sits flush. I found a similar product that's made for this exact purpose, threaded 10-32 unfortunately but buying new screws is simple enough. Again though, these inserts are also 1/2" long. Is this even worth pursuing or is the wood too thin? Is there a minimum distance from the edge of the wood / the barrel band hole that you'd recommend I put my holes? I was going to assume at least the diameter of the hole away from any edges, is that enough space? Is a threaded insert the way to go or should I revisit the tee nut or do something else altogether? Thanks!
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Apr 15, 2020 23:15
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I'm confused. You want to mount your rail where the barrel band goes? Do you have a picture of it assembled?
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Apr 16, 2020 01:19
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Yeah a full assembled mock up might help here. I would say can you relieve the plastic mount rather than the wood as that seems less of a permanent modification.
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Apr 16, 2020 08:38
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