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Yes, the current draw from those bulbs will be tiny, well within the socket spec. Buy those, do that, post pics.
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Apr 13, 2020 22:05
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Remodel update - I managed to convince the building department that my project was considered essential. So my contractors are still working and rough inspection is complete. Also convinced PGE to go ahead with the electrical panel upgrade so that is done and inspected as well (note, a further final needs to happen once all breakers are in place). Now on to drywall + finishing the roof fixes + finishing the heating installation.    
ntan1 fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Apr 15, 2020 |
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Apr 15, 2020 05:44
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sup covid home repair buddy... HVAC guy is here getting rid of the 62 year old furnace form the house I just bought. Have had the furnace off since day 1 of ownership since it's got no safety for the pilot so if it's out it'll just pump gas into the house for ? days until I came back to drop off more boxes. It's exciting to finally get something moving so I can move in at some point!!
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Apr 15, 2020 14:51
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That's one of those ceiling-recessed mini splits right? How much room above do they need? Would love to one day have actual climate control in my house.
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Apr 15, 2020 14:57
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Not sure if this is the place to ask but here I go anyway. My partner has an aluminum screen door and the top hinge has been pulled away, so its just connected by the bottom hinge now. She has asked me to take a look at it, but Im more geared towards woodwork. It looks like it was joined by pop rivets and they have detached, but I dont know the best way to fix that. Do I drill out the original hole and then reapply the rivets? Should I take the entire door off to make it easier? The hinge is still attached to the wall, so if its not broken there I dont really want to mess with it, but if I have to I will.
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Apr 15, 2020 15:17
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Picture would help, but if it's really just a pop rivet failure see what the smallest hole you can cleanly drill through both the door and frame would be (may have damaged metal behind and you'll need to over size to compensate) and find the right diameter and length pop rivets. Should be pretty easy providing there is a void behind the frame. If not, you may need to get a bit more creative or just say F it and throw some screws in there.
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Apr 15, 2020 18:40
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My floor joists are 2x12 open truss above a crawlspace, insulated with fiberglass. The interior floor is laminate. Why are the floors so cold?
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Apr 15, 2020 19:50
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just another posted:My floor joists are 2x12 open truss above a crawlspace, insulated with fiberglass. The interior floor is laminate. Are they actually cold or do they just feel cold? Can you hit them with an IR thermometer or something and compare it against ambient?
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Apr 15, 2020 19:59
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Looks like I finally have an excuse to buy one 
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Apr 15, 2020 20:18
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tater_salad posted:sup covid home repair buddy... I don’t understand how people live in these houses before they’re sold. Ignorance, or old age death wish, or...? I bought a Victorian terrace in the UK last year, which cane with two gas fires, both with “condemned” stickers and slight singe-marks around them. But both still connected to the mains gas supply.
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Apr 15, 2020 20:22
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wooger posted:I don’t understand how people live in these houses before they’re sold. Ignorance, or old age death wish, or...? My house had a 60 year old gas furnace it in before it got replaced (4-5 months after I bought the house). The Dave posted:That's one of those ceiling-recessed mini splits right? How much room above do they need? Would love to one day have actual climate control in my house. These adequately fit in the standard space between two ceiling joists, so 16". Vertically, you need about the distance of a 2x6. (so about 6", + drywall, + cover). From the perspective of rough, the main things that you need to worry about are that the line sets need to have a path to reach the compressor (most joists are rated for a 1/3 cut, potentially with structural inserts, so this should be possible for 2x6s), and you need to have a path out of the house for condensate drain.
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Apr 15, 2020 20:51
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ntan1 posted:From the perspective of rough, the main things that you need to worry about are that the line sets need to have a path to reach the compressor (most joists are rated for a 1/3 cut, potentially with structural inserts, so this should be possible for 2x6s), and you need to have a path out of the house for condensate drain. Asking for a goon: have you considered notching your floor joists and recessing one in your floor with some nice river stones around them for that Marilyn Monroe floor vent aesthetic?
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Apr 15, 2020 21:59
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I dont know have you? PS. Even with that bath-tub, standard floor joists are generally rated notchable up to 1/3 and possibly a bit more if you install structural straps assuming that they are not beams; the distinction is when you are using I-beams or other specialty types of wood that are explicitly not notchable (Confirm this by jurisdiction, standards manual). In that case, you would likely need to work with a structural engineer or look into the manuals to confirm what additional structural work would be required. But yeah, if you dont know what's fine vs not, then hire a contractor.
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Apr 15, 2020 22:30
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wooger posted:I don’t understand how people live in these houses before they’re sold. Ignorance, or old age death wish, or...? 1 owner home (well 2 the daughter 'bought' it for a dollar in like 2006 but we all know that was to avoid medicade. So they became an old person in that house. The furnace worked it's very simple: air blower Gas line and solenoid, there's nothing that could die in it barely any electronics just a flame sensor and uhh um probably that's it. Sure it was blowing .40-.50 of every cent out the chimney sure it's as big as a stand-up deep freezer But when you lived with it forever why not keep living with it?
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Apr 16, 2020 01:31
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wooger posted:I don’t understand how people live in these houses before they’re sold. Ignorance, or old age death wish, or...? I had a 40 year old POS furnace in my house when I bought it. My pre-purchase home inspector said it was inoperable. I fixed it in about 5 minutes. I have since, due to waking up in refrigerator temperatures in my house several times, replaced the flame sensor, fixed a broken ground screw, and reconnected the fan so the 'low' setting ran on a different winding when the normal low winding failed open. All these fixes probably cost me $40-50 over several years, while I was dumping tons of money into other things trying to salvage the wreck that is still going to bankrupt me.  Once I default on it and lose it, the new owner will wonder about all the crap that isn't fixed yet. Like, where are the stairs? and the walls?
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Apr 16, 2020 02:28
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I moved last year and on my first walk through of my current place I was astounded that both the water heater and steam boiler in this 100 year old house were less than 2 years old. The newest of either I have ever seen in my life.
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Apr 16, 2020 02:35
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:I moved last year and on my first walk through of my current place I was astounded that both the water heater and steam boiler in this 100 year old house were less than 2 years old. The newest of either I have ever seen in my life. Nice!
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Apr 16, 2020 03:06
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mr.belowaverage posted:Once I default on it and lose it, the new owner will wonder about all the crap that isn't fixed yet. Like, where are the stairs? and the walls? Honestly I would probably bail on my house (pandemic aside) if I didn't know how much of a hit you take by having any renovations in process.
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Apr 16, 2020 13:44
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Jaded Burnout posted:Honestly I would probably bail on my house (pandemic aside) if I didn't know how much of a hit you take by having any renovations in process. I've been in this same mental state for a couple years now. Want to trade projects for a few months for variety?
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Apr 16, 2020 16:40
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mr.belowaverage posted:I've been in this same mental state for a couple years now. No, but you know what, in my day to day work this would be a perfect opportunity to pair up on one person's project and then the other. I hadn't realised it (with some irony here) that it's classic burnout. Just not from work, for a change.
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Apr 16, 2020 18:44
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Being bored AF while stuck WFH lately, I have been passing the time reading and watching all sorts of "small DIY tasks you can do!" blogs/videos. I can't take several hours off in the middle of the day to do a big project, and my house is getting drat near spotless, so I figured I'd try and do small things. Now, there are far worse "DIY tricks" to get annoyed about, so I don't know why this one is a pet peeve of mine, but is anyone else sick to death of everyone telling you to utilize the space behind your cabinet doors to hang poo poo like pot lids, spices, etc..? I don't get why it's a popular "hack." That's not free space! You put a lid there, now there's 2-3 inches in the front of the cabinet you can't use. Maybe everyone else has SUPER deep cabinets, but mine aren't. I basically get two "layers" of pots and pans in mine, large ones in the back stacked on top of each other, and smaller ones in front. I honestly don't think I can afford to lose 2-3" for ONE friggin pot lid, since I don't think my cabinet is tall enough for two. I just don't see the point. Edit: This is probably the worst version:  1 or 2 of those lids are just going to hit the shelves, no? DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Apr 16, 2020 |
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Apr 16, 2020 19:34
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DrBouvenstein posted:1 or 2 of those lids are just going to hit the shelves, no? I wouldn't say I'm sick of it, but it doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I have been trying to sort out getting my pots and pans arranged such that it is easy to find the one I am looking for and I can get it out without moving a bunch of other ones. I ended up just pulling the shelves out of the cabinet I keep them in and using some of these (there are many alternatives) which work fairly well. Right now all of my lids are in the drawer under the oven though I don't really like how they clang around when I open and close it to get one out. At least the pots on the back of the cabinet doors puts them out of sight. What I really don't get are all of the weird home organizing/DIY tips that advocate for hanging poo poo from every available surface in your home.
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Apr 17, 2020 00:26
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DrBouvenstein posted:Being bored AF while stuck WFH lately, I have been passing the time reading and watching all sorts of "small DIY tasks you can do!" blogs/videos. I can't take several hours off in the middle of the day to do a big project, and my house is getting drat near spotless, so I figured I'd try and do small things. Someone tell me what my fiance or I did with one of my pots. I know I've used it since finishing remodeling my kitchen, the lid is in the stupid, useless Ikea lid organizer, but I cannot find the loving pot. Also, I hate the ikea lid organizer. Is there a better solution that doesn't just fall over?
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Apr 17, 2020 00:53
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put the lid on the pot
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Apr 17, 2020 01:22
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MetaJew posted:Also, I hate the ikea lid organizer. Is there a better solution that doesn't just fall over? I have this, though just the "bakeware" version that doesn't have little slots for the lid handles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VG7VZ7I/?th=1  I use it for cutting boards and a few lids I have for my large plastic containers/tubs. Works ok so far.
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Apr 17, 2020 01:23
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Your pot lids and pots too large to hang on the rack aren't just haphazardly thrown into a cabinet? I guess I've been doing it wrong.
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Apr 17, 2020 01:43
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Semi-related are there recommended brands for the pull out shelves that you can install into cabinets? Probably going to end up doing that project soonish.
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Apr 17, 2020 04:11
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Just put the lids in the drawer that’s built into your oven??
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Apr 17, 2020 04:15
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Just put the lids in the drawer that’s built into your oven?? Half of people: “wow, that was a drawer this entire time?!” The other half of people: “I just pulled some trim off the front of my oven cabinet mount.”
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Apr 17, 2020 09:01
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The third half of people We'll axually it'd a warning drawer to keep food warm it's not a drawer for your poo poo.
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Apr 17, 2020 11:47
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tater_salad posted:The third half of people my pans need a goddan warning
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Apr 17, 2020 12:04
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I never put non-bakeware in that drawer because I always sort of worried that it would get hot and not be great for stuff like pots/lids with plastic handles or knobs or whatever. And because I just thought that if I was using the oven and then needed to grab a lid/pot they'd all be super-heated? I have no idea how hot that drawer actually gets but I just leave it for oven stuff. 
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Apr 17, 2020 12:04
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Just put the lids in the drawer that’s built into your oven?? Well, only speaking for myself, I have very little storage in my kitchen, so that houses my baking sheets and cast iron pans. I might be able to fit my lids in there, but it'd make getting what I need out of there a bigger pain than it already is.  Picture from when I moved in. That's all the cabinets and counter I have, nothing on the other walls. I moved the fridge, but those cabinets remain. I keep spare kitchen towels in there, since it's not good for anything I need right away. I put a stainless steel commercial-style table where the fridge was. It has a shelf underneath that houses large plastic cambro-style containers, along with that lid/baking sheet holder thingy I linked earlier that holds my cutting boards and lids to the aforementioned cambro-style containers. The cabinets above stove have storage containers. The two narrow cabinets to the right of the stove over the counter in the corner have all my spices and such in one, and the other has vinegars, oils, and overflow of spices (like the big box of salt I refill my smaller salt container from, etc.) Then it's the sink, so standard "below sink" cabinet full of cleaning supplies, and my plastic bag full of other plastic bags. To the right of the sink are 4 more standard size cabinets. Two above the counter with all my dishware, and two below that have my cookware and things like mixing bowls. I have to stack my pots and pans haphazardly with lids all akimbo in here. It sucks. Plus, the two below the counter are separated, there's a "wall" between them, so it's two smaller spaces, not one larger space. The above counter cabinet is a single large bay with two doors, so it's a little better in that regard. If you'll notice, I have nowhere to store food. I had to buy one of those stand alone pantry cabinet things, and on a previously empty wall in the kitchen is that, along with where I moved my fridge, and lastly one of those "microwave carts" that has my microwave, and underneath a few more pieces of cookware.
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Apr 17, 2020 13:49
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MetaJew posted:Also, I hate the ikea lid organizer. Is there a better solution that doesn't just fall over? The one I linked to here seems pretty stable. If you want to put really unbalanced poo poo on it you may want to screw the base of it to your cabinet, though. tangy yet delightful posted:Semi-related are there recommended brands for the pull out shelves that you can install into cabinets? Probably going to end up doing that project soonish. I need to do some of these but I have been putting them off (good ones are expensive). I don't have a particular brand but I will warn you that the really cheap ones seem to break almost immediately if you put anything on them so it's probably worth paying the premium for non-trash-tier options. I would also be careful to check out how the slide mechanism actually works before you buy because a lot of them only slide half-way out which may or may not be a problem depending on where you put it. DrBouvenstein posted:Well, only speaking for myself, I have very little storage in my kitchen, so that houses my baking sheets and cast iron pans. I might be able to fit my lids in there, but it'd make getting what I need out of there a bigger pain than it already is. I am absolutely convinced that there is some reasonable method to have your pot/pan lids stay nicely sorted inside of an oven drawer but I haven't figured out what it is yet. Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Apr 17, 2020 |
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Apr 17, 2020 14:13
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I have wire shelves in my kitchen and hang pits and pans from it. I also hang pot lid racks on the side of the wire shelf and put lids I use on there. There's a bit of a pile of lids I don't use often though.
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Apr 17, 2020 14:43
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I broke a double-pane window, and I'm trying to remove it to bring to the glass place in town. I looked on Youtube for the best way to remove a window, but there seem to be a million different styles and I don't want to just be prying away at poo poo. Pic 1 Pic 2 Anyone know how this style is meant to come out?
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Apr 17, 2020 16:50
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tater_salad posted:The third half of people On my old oven it actually was a broiler. It took us way too long to figure out why the broil setting sucked so much
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Apr 17, 2020 17:35
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Baronash posted:Anyone know how this style is meant to come out? The short answer is, they are not. The can be reglazed in place, though. Otherwise you have to kind of deconstruct them to get the panes out.
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Apr 17, 2020 17:46
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tangy yet delightful posted:Semi-related are there recommended brands for the pull out shelves that you can install into cabinets? Probably going to end up doing that project soonish. They're somewhat expensive but their stuff is great: https://www.rockler.com/
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Apr 17, 2020 18:17
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mr.belowaverage posted:The short answer is, they are not. The can be reglazed in place, though. Otherwise you have to kind of deconstruct them to get the panes out. Bummer, though I see what you mean about reglazing in place. From removing the glass, it seems simple enough: putty on the inside and some clip in beading facing out. Is there any reason I shouldn't consider replacing it myself?
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Apr 17, 2020 18:53
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