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chiasaur11
Oct 22, 2012



Unlucky7 posted:

Well I just got started on RG Nu Gundam and got partway through one of the legs. I thought I knew what to expect from RGs at this point. This kit...kicks that assumption in the teeth. In a good way.

Triple jointed knees.

Triple jointed knees!

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Dead Like Rev
Sep 6, 2010

"The dead walk among us."



Unlucky7 posted:

Well I just got started on RG Nu Gundam and got partway through one of the legs. I thought I knew what to expect from RGs at this point. This kit...kicks that assumption in the teeth. In a good way.

Told ya boss, RG Nu is gods gift to gunpla. its a beautiful kit.

Edit: Talk to me folks, am I gonna destroy my RG Nu by applying waterslides with microsol/microset to bare plastic? I didnt paint it cause fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck painting an RG. But if I've gotta i can tear it down and start painting :(

Bill Posters
Apr 27, 2007

I'm tripping right now... Don't fuck this up for me.

I have the same philosophy regarding RGs and paint. I don't know how Mark Setter/Softer compare to Microsol/set but I use the former on bare plastic all the time to no ill effect.

Amp
Sep 10, 2010

:11tea::bubblewoop::agesilaus::megaman::yoshi::squawk::supaburn::iit::spooky::axe::honked::shroom::smugdog::sg::pkmnwhy::parrot::screamy::tubular::corsair::sanix::yeeclaw::hayter::flip::redflag:

Dead Like Rev posted:

Told ya boss, RG Nu is gods gift to gunpla. its a beautiful kit.

Edit: Talk to me folks, am I gonna destroy my RG Nu by applying waterslides with microsol/microset to bare plastic? I didnt paint it cause fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck painting an RG. But if I've gotta i can tear it down and start painting :(

You could always test it on some sprue and if it does weird stuff to it, drop a glosscoat on it before doing decals.

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


RG Nu is easily my favorite build that I've made. If all the new RGs follow suit, it's gonna be great.

Crusader
Apr 11, 2002

if I've never done a RG kit before, is the Nu Gundam a good first one? Or better to cut my teeth on something else prior?

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


There's the kits prior to the Nu, which have a pre built internal skeleton, including the joints. They're cool but can have issues with armor retention.

The Nu is basically a 144 sized MG.

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Crusader posted:

if I've never done a RG kit before, is the Nu Gundam a good first one? Or better to cut my teeth on something else prior?

If you can build an MG you can build it, it's just smaller.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Crusader posted:

if I've never done a RG kit before, is the Nu Gundam a good first one? Or better to cut my teeth on something else prior?

If you can build an HG kit, you'll be fine. You're just dealing with smaller and more intricate parts.

Azubah
Jun 5, 2007

I really enjoyed making the Qan[t], Crossbone (this one has so many cool toys), and Sazabi. I've heard some very cool things about the Unicorn and everyone loves the Nu.

Moai Ou
May 18, 2004

WE LOVE SHOOTING GAMES!


Fun Shoe

Dead Like Rev posted:

Told ya boss, RG Nu is gods gift to gunpla. its a beautiful kit.

Edit: Talk to me folks, am I gonna destroy my RG Nu by applying waterslides with microsol/microset to bare plastic? I didnt paint it cause fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck painting an RG. But if I've gotta i can tear it down and start painting :(

Microsol won't hurt the plastic. I use waterslide whenever I can, and usually on bare plastic. Just make sure you throw a topcoat on when you're done to protect them. Good luck putting them on a RG; I put them on the Unicorn and holy poo poo are there a lot on that one.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Dead Like Rev posted:

Told ya boss, RG Nu is gods gift to gunpla. its a beautiful kit.

Edit: Talk to me folks, am I gonna destroy my RG Nu by applying waterslides with microsol/microset to bare plastic? I didnt paint it cause fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck painting an RG. But if I've gotta i can tear it down and start painting :(

Like others have said, decal setters shouldn't eat your plastic. Putting a gloss coat down first will make your life a little easier when it comes to decal application and panel lining, though.

Proper varnishing just makes your models look nicer all around. Topcoats are your friend.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

iospace posted:

There's the kits prior to the Nu, which have a pre built internal skeleton, including the joints. They're cool but can have issues with armor retention.

The Nu is basically a 144 sized MG.

Sazabi and Tallgeese also have minimal prebuilt internals - Sazabi's got some bits in the shoulder and torso, and Tallgeese's arms and binder mounts.

Dead Like Rev
Sep 6, 2010

"The dead walk among us."



Appreciate it folks!

Moai Ou posted:

Microsol won't hurt the plastic. I use waterslide whenever I can, and usually on bare plastic. Just make sure you throw a topcoat on when you're done to protect them. Good luck putting them on a RG; I put them on the Unicorn and holy poo poo are there a lot on that one.

Yeah uhhh I got the P-Bandai double funnel set for the RG Nu so ive got a metric gently caress ton to do.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Dead Like Rev posted:

Appreciate it folks!


Yeah uhhh I got the P-Bandai double funnel set for the RG Nu so ive got a metric gently caress ton to do.

You don't have to do the all. I did maybe a third of the ones on the MG Unicorn Ka because I thought it looked too busy with all of them.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


They're (Koto) doing a new AC kit, the AC4 Opening Rayleonard 03-Aaliyah "Supplice".

http://en.kotobukiya.co.jp/product/product-0000003717/

I've already got the 03-Aaliyah kit, but this is very cool.

Flipswitch fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Apr 17, 2020

ACES CURE PLANES
Oct 21, 2010



please koto

please make more kawamori-designed ACs

I beg of you

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

ACES CURE PLANES posted:

please koto

please make more kawamori-designed ACs

I beg of you

I still regret being entirely out of modelling and not paying attention at all when AC1 Nineball came out.

fe: Oh frig, HLJ has one. CONUNDRUM.

Burns
May 10, 2008

This dude's first Gunpla kit is just drat bang on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbJRtnQvsOM

I ordered the RG Nu Gundam today (based on this thread's recommendations) and the HG Hiyaku Shiki because I have to finish the Argama's mobile suit team but unfortunately no RG Hiyaku Shiki to keep in line with the Zeta and MkII I have already built. The RG Zeta built wasn't too bad but I'm a bit upset over the right arm losing articulation - I saw some sites that offer to order replacement parts from Japan, have any of you used those before? Any recommendations or things to be wary of?

I want to start doing my own panel lines especially on HG kits. What are the best/most user friendly tools for that?

JoeGlassJAw
Apr 9, 2010

Burns posted:

I want to start doing my own panel lines especially on HG kits. What are the best/most user friendly tools for that?

It comes down to personal preference because there are a few ways to go about it, but my technique of choice is micron/gundam marker, draw in the lines, then take a q tip and rub out the excess and use a pencil eraser to clean up any further smudging. Quick and easy!

Burns
May 10, 2008

I meant to actually carve them out.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Burns posted:

I meant to actually carve them out.

Panel line scribing tool.

Old Swerdlow
Jul 24, 2008

Burns posted:

I want to start doing my own panel lines especially on HG kits. What are the best/most user friendly tools for that?

https://www.amazon.ca/Modeling-Scriber-Hobby-Hasegawa-Trytool/dp/B001HLYQDI

https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-74091-...ya+scrib&sr=8-1

Queadlunn
Dec 10, 2005

Yak Deculture!
Fallen Rib
Not truly plamo, but I received an amazing VF-1J from SDF: Macross in Millia Falina's colors today! This one's one of Arcadia's 1/60




It'll be great with the YF-19 I got last year. I wish there were better Macross models for anything that's not from the VF-25's line and descendants. I'd pay a lot for a well designed VF-11 or 17, or YF-21...

:shepspends:

At least there're some really good figures for many of them these days.

Queadlunn fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Apr 18, 2020

Dead Like Rev
Sep 6, 2010

"The dead walk among us."



Queadlunn posted:

Not truly plamo, but I received an amazing VF-1J from SDF: Macross in Millia Falina's colors today! This one's one of Arcadia's 1/60

Man I'd like one of those but I just cant bring myself to drop the $200 on em.

Dead Like Rev
Sep 6, 2010

"The dead walk among us."



JT Smiley posted:

Just finished my entry, thinking for calling it Metal Gear Anubis:




Hey folks i'm late to getting around this but uhhh, JT Smiley got the most votes. If you want it i've got a Gundam G40 thats all yours, can ship it out when all the chaos in the world is done or immediately if you want. PM me here on SA if you can / want it or on Discord (DeadLikeRev#5251)

Unlucky7
Jul 11, 2006

Fallen Rib
Couple of questions: What Action Base should I get?

And this is sort of an off topic but since I keep seeing their HG models: where should I start with Build Fighters?

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Burns posted:

This dude's first Gunpla kit is just drat bang on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbJRtnQvsOM

Only half as crazy as your typical Plasmo video, but still fantastic.

Unmature
May 9, 2008
Has anyone gotten or heard anything about their RG EVA from USAGundam?

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Unlucky7 posted:

Couple of questions: What Action Base should I get?

And this is sort of an off topic but since I keep seeing their HG models: where should I start with Build Fighters?

Watch the Build Fighters series, the first one with no suffix, then forget about them because Try and Build Divers are garbage. Re-Rise might end up sucking less but it’s only halfway through its run.

Lemon-Lime
Aug 6, 2009

Burns posted:

This dude's first Gunpla kit is just drat bang on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbJRtnQvsOM

It's very impressive technically and the dude obviously has serious plamo skills, but I really don't like that style of super detailed/chipped/weathered modelling because it tries to make the model look like a real-world tank instead of a cartoon robot.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Lemon-Lime posted:

It's very impressive technically and the dude obviously has serious plamo skills, but I really don't like that style of super detailed/chipped/weathered modelling because it tries to make the model look like a real-world tank instead of a cartoon robot.

There’s a place for both styles. I like them clean too, but I appreciate the tasteful weathering on display here.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Queadlunn posted:

Not truly plamo, but I received an amazing VF-1J from SDF: Macross in Millia Falina's colors today! This one's one of Arcadia's 1/60
It'll be great with the YF-19 I got last year. I wish there were better Macross models for anything that's not from the VF-25's line and descendants. I'd pay a lot for a well designed VF-11 or 17, or YF-21...

Hard agree. More Macross kits at a modern standard would be amazing expensive amazing. I've got an old transformable VF-1A. It's a glue kit, but went together pretty well. The mechanics of it are just not great. It transforms, but doesn't feel solid and the detail are mediocre. I also have a VF-25 to compare it with, and the 25 is a great kit. I've lot some important pieces from my original VF-25, so I should be seeing a new one this week to scratch that itch. The difference in quality between the two models is night and day.

In non-transformable kits, the 1/100 VF-25 fighter-mode is also a gorgeous kit. Not a lot of pieces, all really well formed. It really shows off the beauty of the VF-25. but it's an amazing amount of stickers or masking paint to get all the details of the paint job. The black and red details highlight the white paint job, but are an amazing amount of work to apply. Looks drat good when it's done, and it's only about a $20 kit.

Queadlunn
Dec 10, 2005

Yak Deculture!
Fallen Rib

mllaneza posted:

Hard agree. More Macross kits at a modern standard would be amazing expensive amazing. I've got an old transformable VF-1A. It's a glue kit, but went together pretty well. The mechanics of it are just not great. It transforms, but doesn't feel solid and the detail are mediocre. I also have a VF-25 to compare it with, and the 25 is a great kit. I've lot some important pieces from my original VF-25, so I should be seeing a new one this week to scratch that itch. The difference in quality between the two models is night and day.

In non-transformable kits, the 1/100 VF-25 fighter-mode is also a gorgeous kit. Not a lot of pieces, all really well formed. It really shows off the beauty of the VF-25. but it's an amazing amount of stickers or masking paint to get all the details of the paint job. The black and red details highlight the white paint job, but are an amazing amount of work to apply. Looks drat good when it's done, and it's only about a $20 kit.

I've gotten a few Macross kits over the years, the VF-0S by Wave was quite nice but was a kit that needed full glue and paint. I guess what I want is something like a 1/60 scale Master-Grade equivilent. The 1/72 kits from Bandai I build for the VF-1 and VF-25 were okay as static displays but felt like plastic spaghetti when ever I tried to transform them. A 1/60 VF4 would be something I'd pay a good deal for, same with the VF-11 and YF-21 if they somehow figured out how to make the '21 look good in Battroid mode.

There's a load of great kits from Hasegawa and Wave and Bandai but none really work for me. I guess that's why I'm slowly getting into the transformable figures now, even if they're even more expensive.

Captain Invictus
Apr 5, 2005

Try reading some manga!


Clever Betty
so I've discovered that maybe the plastic of bandai kits doesn't maintain durability or becomes more brittle over the years, as I'm assembling the RX-79 kit that I got off amazon like 20? years ago during the fabled gundam clearance and has been sitting in the closet since then. Went to assemble the torso and the front half just literally exploded in my hands from very little pressure, pieces flying off to god knows where. after 15 minutes of searching, I managed to piece it back together and luckily most of the break points were in relatively non-obvious places(unfortunately one of them being the connection point for the cockpit cover, which may make it difficult to close and may require gluing permanently shut), but the plastic is a bit more...volatile than the heavyarms/turn a that I just assembled.

Lemon-Lime posted:

It's very impressive technically and the dude obviously has serious plamo skills, but I really don't like that style of super detailed/chipped/weathered modelling because it tries to make the model look like a real-world tank instead of a cartoon robot.

I understand where you're coming from, but that sorta thing would probably get pretty filthy and dinged up pretty quickly in a warzone, so it's fine if someone wants to portray it that way. the cartoony style is also perfectly fine.

Unlucky7
Jul 11, 2006

Fallen Rib
I think undergates (The little pieces of sprue that sometimes remain on a piece after cut the main sprue off) are loving me up. I am trying to shave them down as best I can with the Godhands, but often a little is still there and I can't tell if armor plates not being quite flush with each other are due to that or just meant to be like that and/or if it is within the margin of error.

I suppose it still looks alright if you aren't looking for it and as long as it does not keep a piece from attaching or cause it to pop off during movement, but it just bugs me.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
I decided to build one of the Max Factory 1/350 scale Pacific Rim kits and hoo boy.

Every joint needs modifications as each peg is way too tight.

The colours the plastic come in absolutely dictate the need to fully paint the kit. The inner frame is this poo green-grey colour and the armour pieces are a completely different shade compared to what they are supposed to look like.

It at least has a full inner frame so painting it will be easy.

Unlucky7
Jul 11, 2006

Fallen Rib
On the one hand I would like to build a Perfect Grade someday to say I did it on the other hand Jesus Christ those prices :shepspends:

Unlucky7 fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Apr 19, 2020

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


Lemon-Lime posted:

It's very impressive technically and the dude obviously has serious plamo skills, but I really don't like that style of super detailed/chipped/weathered modelling because it tries to make the model look like a real-world tank instead of a cartoon robot.

Midjack posted:

There’s a place for both styles. I like them clean too, but I appreciate the tasteful weathering on display here.

I'm in the same boat as Midjack. A more "out of the box" build, though painted, would be a great "hey, just came off the line" build. The build he did felt more of "this thing has been in the field for a while now, and they had to slap on armor plates where they could, and it could use a good bath".

While Gundam is a cartoon, one does have to remember its origins was a gritty, "war is hell" cartoon.

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Argas
Jan 13, 2008
SRW Fanatic




Unlucky7 posted:

Couple of questions: What Action Base should I get?

And this is sort of an off topic but since I keep seeing their HG models: where should I start with Build Fighters?

I'd recommend action base 4 or 5, depending on the size of your model and/or how much you want to expand your bases. The nice thing is that they both use more or less the same pieces, just that 4 has longer arms, and 4 comes with three hexagonal bases as opposed to one.

To expand on this because I want to rant a little.

Action base 1's octagon + tiny square with the connecting tabs was pretty decent but as they've released more options its kind of awful. The connecting tabs are part of the square rather than separate pieces like they are in most other ABs, and has very inconsistent fits in general. The arm is huge and while that's great for 1/100s in flying poses, it is overkill for smaller scales and is still too large for 1/100s in a standing pose. It also uses a nut and bolt to maintain one key joint. I guess it's probably more durable over time compared to plastic-only construction but it contributed to the cheap feel of the stand as if you're basically just brute forcing it. Also, the inconsistent placement of holes is the worst.

Action base 2 would probably be good if you could get it super cheap but afaik standard retail price isn't much cheaper than the AB5. While the two trapezoids do let you come up with more combinations, it's clearly intended to be combined as a hexagon, or combined with a bunch of others into a giant donut or just string a whole bunch of them together. Unfortunately there's only one hole per trapezoid so you don't really get any different placement options by shoving a bunch of them together like you do with the AB1. Though it has the separate connecting tab, the fit is still inconsistent. At least there's a handy slot to store the second one you get in each kit. Also, it uses two sets of nuts and bolts.

I guess the main solid plus of the action base 1/2 is that they're textured with generic mechanical details so you could totally just do a quick paint job to spruce it up.

Action base 4/5 is just lovely. As noted above, the 4 is the 5's bigger but identical twin because it comes with longer arms and two more hexagons. Rather than using screws to tighten joints, it uses a plastic piece on a hinge as a lock for the joints at one end of each arm. You can split the arms up to use them separately and it comes with the pieces to do that. Additionally there's a much simpler arm without any locks for supporting something lighter like a hyper mega launcher, but it also works fine for supporting a standing model. The 4's simpler arm just has a second arm segment to make it longer.

Argas fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Apr 19, 2020

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