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That's some factory noise suppression cap or something like that, I think. My WJ had one, I don't think my TJ does. I agree that the splice looks factory, I've seen splices like that in my TJ's harness. edit: found a more likely solution and put it in your thread Speaking of wiring, while wrapping up the O2 sensor swap on said TJ, I ruined the wiring harness side of the rear downstream O2 sensor, the one that connects over the loving bellhousing. I suspect I actually did the damage on a prior removal and the pins wiggling loose on the heater side were the root cause of my CEL. Do I dare try to find a similarly-brittle one off of a junkyard wiring harness, do I somehow find the specifically keyed connector available new somewhere, or do I say gently caress it and replace both ends with a generic 4-pin connector? I'm strongly leaning towards the last one since it will also let me add some cable length and get the connector to a much more usable location. Also, given the presence of Mopar part numbers on all four sensors, I think they were all original. Only one that fought me coming out was the rear upstream sensor, and it relented once I cut the wiring short enough to put a 7/8 socket on. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Mar 29, 2020 |
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Mar 29, 2020 22:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do I dare try to find a similarly-brittle one off of a junkyard wiring harness, do I somehow find the specifically keyed connector available new somewhere, or do I say gently caress it and replace both ends with a generic 4-pin connector?
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Mar 29, 2020 23:15
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Yeah, I replaced all four sensors so that end of the connector is new either way. Looking at the old part in my hand and the new "Standard S1932" connector a few places list, no luck there - the photos show that one having a different keying than the rear downstream O2.
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Mar 29, 2020 23:35
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Slapped a generic DT-style 4-pin connector on both ends and added a few feet of wiring so now it goes from the mess of harness underneath the passenger side head, over the middle of the transmission instead of the bellhousing, and the connector itself is easily accessed. Also made some progress on my steering parts cannon. Protip, if anyone else ever replaces their TJ intermediate steering shafts - even if you get the Mopar shafts, test fit the two halves together before you put them in. Discovered the hard way that the machining on the lower shaft was incomplete. There's a machined flat opposite the groove for the pinch bolt - on the original shaft it's machined past the pinch bolt. On the new one it was short by about 10mm. My plan to tap the timing cover oil pan bolts without removing the pan has failed miserably - and if I take the pan off again I'm going to have a new timing cover on hand to throw on. Alternatively, is it possible to replace the timing cover on a 4.0 without dropping the pan entirely? What else should I plan on slapping on at the same time if I go that route? Front main seal, perhaps a new balancer?
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Apr 5, 2020 00:05
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If the balancer rubber isn't cracked or bulging out, keep running it. I trust old factory balancers over new ones unless you spend pretty good money on boring parts for a low power tractor motor. And it's easy to replace later, should be plenty of room. I think the new cover kits come with a seal but I'm not sure. You might be able to replace it without dropping the pan but I always manage to drop gunk into the pan while trying to clean the front of the block and pull the pan to clean it out while kicking myself.
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Apr 5, 2020 03:19
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Fair enough. Did some googling and found that at least one guy claims it can be done without dropping the pan, though for whatever reason they're also replacing a timing chain with at least half the mileage mine has on it.
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Apr 5, 2020 06:06
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So my 2013 Rubicon has been having some strange issues with power delivery but with no check engine light. The problem is that on the highway in 4th gear between about 3000-4000RPM the engine will suddenly lose about 50% power and the exhaust starts sounding like its severely restricted (similar to what it feels like when a catalytic converter is going). Its an intermittent issue that seems to occur more when its warm, so I took it to the local exhaust shop and and their code reader pulled a 741 code despite the lack of a check engine light. They did a test drive and were able to replicate the issue and after a bit further diagnosis they think that it might be an issue with the torque converter. However, they also said that when they checked the trans fluid that they found metal shavings and that the trans fluid was completely shot. I just pulled and checked the fluid and honestly I can't see any overt signs of metal shavings present in the dipstick fluid but there is no denying that I've been feeling a kind of subtle 'grinding' vibration (similar to what driving on asphalt with a pair of cupped tires fees like) and that has been real concerned. I completely overlooked the maintenance schedule for a transmission flush at 60,000 miles so I guess this is all my fault. Plus, I live in the central valley of CA so most of my driving in the summer definitely meets the criteria of a vehicle that needs one at 60k. Lets hope that my oversight isn't the tipping point that's going to cause my transmission to grenade in the near future... Out of curiosity, I checked ebay and found a decent deal on an automatic transmission that should work (from a 2015 JK, mines a 2013). I've done my own work and installed my own lift kit, front and rear bumpers with a winch, foglights, etc. But this would be the most ambivious self-repair I've ever taken on. I purchased an online sub to Haynes and they have a walk-through for dropping it out and reinstalling which seems pretty straightforward, but just curious if anybody here that has gone through that process could provide a few pointers, etc. McDeth fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 02:42
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I think you might have two issues, much as you likely don't want to hear that. And I'm not sure what the sudden lack of power one is being caused by.
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Apr 9, 2020 03:03
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What happens if you go WOT when it loses power? Do you notice that this happens more on slight uphill grades, maintaining cruising speed? Are you UTD on all other maintenance?
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Apr 9, 2020 05:00
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I got a lucky score and picked up 6x 40" r17 MTR/ks for $125 each. Now I just need to find some cheapo beadlocks to mount them on. These are going onto the m715's new axles (old wheels have different bolt pattern and are useless).
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Apr 9, 2020 23:58
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tuna posted:I got a lucky score and picked up 6x 40" r17 MTR/ks for $125 each. Now I just need to find some cheapo beadlocks to mount them on. These are going onto the m715's new axles (old wheels have different bolt pattern and are useless). I also find it interesting how much sidewall those have in a 17" size ... really draws a fine point on how much bigger those are than, say, 33s. In other news, if anyone ever needs to de-pin a ~97-01 Cherokee/Grand Cherokee PCM plug (and I suspect, Wrangler, probably a lot earlier and a little later, too), the thing you want is a Snap-On SGDTT20/SGDTT20G. Krakkles posted:Any recommendations on depinning tools? I know they're not one-size-fits-all, so particularly, I'm looking to de-pin a 2000 Jeep Cherokee PCM, which lead me to this video. The guy lists a version of the tool that's unavailable (on amazon, in video description), and when I looked around, I found them - maybe - on mscdirect.com: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/87089710 Krakkles posted:And, got the smaller one, it's perfect. This is a ton easier than trying to do it with those little plastic things. Part number from Snap-On is SGDTT20/SGDTT20G if anyone needs one. (-G is green, without G is red, tool is the same otherwise.)
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Apr 10, 2020 03:53
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Krakkles posted:That's a killer deal! Yeah, that sidewall is a hair under 1" thick. The scale of *big offroad things* never really shows in pictures (and neither does the weight). [e] oh you meant sidewall height lol. tuna fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Apr 10, 2020 |
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Apr 10, 2020 06:28
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I rotated the 33x12.5x15s on the TJ tonight after doing a tape measure alignment. That was enough of a workout.
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Apr 10, 2020 06:39
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tuna posted:Yeah, that sidewall is a hair under 1" thick. The scale of *big offroad things* never really shows in pictures (and neither does the weight).
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Apr 10, 2020 07:01
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Just installed one of those tires on cheap steelies with 1 tire spoon. My technique wasnt great until the end, but drat that was exhausting. CrossFit competitions should get rid of the tire flipping and replace it with tire installing instead.
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Apr 17, 2020 03:08
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So I pulled the pan on the Jeep and as expected after 94k miles the transmission fluid was shot. I replaced the gasket and checked the magnet...thoughts? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bIgM7ISosQ To me it seems about 'normal' for a transmission that hasn't been regularly serviced...ever.
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Apr 19, 2020 04:02
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That's less shavings than I ever found in my religiously serviced 545RFE. I wouldn't sweat it.
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Apr 19, 2020 04:28
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So long story short, have a 2004 WJ. 4.0. And it ended up in a ditch. (No, I wasn't driving, another long story). So after having it towed around (cracked rim) amongst other things when driving it sounds like some mud flap is trying to come loose. Like a thumping noise. I'm thinking the CV axle bearing is broke? I crawled under the Jeep and and no split boots or anything, broken links, etc. but that is about the only thing I can think of. I'm assuming maybe to take weight off the tires to find play, but is that normal test with a healthy one? And looking at options to fix it if you think it a CV shaft. Rock Auto has about 10 options with selec-trac/quadra trac/variomatic (which I'm ruling out since that seems to be for the V8). New front tires by the way since those were toast.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:03
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C-Bangin' it 
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If you have a 4.0 you most likely don't have quadratrac / varilok axles, those were mostly on V8s. Could stick your VIN in here to make sure: https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing But, yeah, time to get it up off the wheels and maybe in gear with the wheels off the ground so you can chase down the noise a bit. I disconnected the front track bar on the TJ trying to chase down the memory steer to see if somehow that was an issue, since it (along with the ball joints, unit bearings, and bushings) are the only things I haven't touched up front. The bushing in the track bar, along with the ball joint, are definitely worn but not to the point of creating any slop or binding so I don't think that was it. I was going to say I'm tempted to pull the steering stabilizer off and see if that does anything because while I used the exact same Moog part I put on my WJ, this thing was *really* hard to push in and out by hand and I don't recall that from the last time. So, gently caress it, gonna try that now.
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Apr 21, 2020 05:07
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Yeah, that steering damper is too much. Either it's defective or something, because without it the steering feels noticeably lighter and the centering (while not perfect) is much better. Debating running without one long term.
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Apr 21, 2020 06:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, that steering damper is too much. Either it's defective or something, because without it the steering feels noticeably lighter and the centering (while not perfect) is much better. Debating running without one long term.
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Apr 21, 2020 07:37
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So how does the 3.8 V6 compare to the 3.6 Pentastar reliability wise? I know the 3.6 has the casting sand issues so I'm assuming the 3.8 is better in that regard.
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Apr 21, 2020 15:54
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Krakkles posted:I don’t run one, highly recommend ditching it. It's tempting. I don't know why this one is so much stiffer than the same exact part I put on the WJ. Applebees Appetizer posted:So how does the 3.8 V6 compare to the 3.6 Pentastar reliability wise? They get a lot of heat for being a "minivan motor" but it's not like any factory Wrangler ever can be described in words other than "slow". One of my coworkers has a 3.8 JK, the engine hasn't given him any problems yet.
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Apr 21, 2020 17:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's tempting. I don't know why this one is so much stiffer than the same exact part I put on the WJ. The 3.8 has a penchant for burning oil, even when new. Jeep says it's "Normal" for one to burn 1qt/1000miles. At 20MPG, that means the engine is effectively burning a 200:1 pre-mix. I don't honestly understand how they get away with this poo poo. They don't all do it, although IME most do after 50-60k miles. The burn rates vary widely, some burn a half quart/3000miles, some burn 1qt/750 miles (which is Jeep's limit for warranty work). My roomate bought a Willis edition and that thing burned oil from day 1. He kept a case of cheap 5w20 in the back and just topped off every couple of tanks of fuel. "It's a Jeep thing" indeed :smh:
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Apr 21, 2020 18:07
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Is burning it more environmentally sound than leaving a trail of it everywhere like the beloved 4.0 typically does?
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Apr 21, 2020 18:22
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There's a dealer nearby selling a nice 2011 2 door so I was thinking about lowballing them to see what happens, they've had it for awhile and might be desperate now.
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Apr 21, 2020 18:29
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Speaking of Joop thangs:   gently caress. I'm pretty sure at least some of those cracks are fresh, and in the second picture you can see that the track bar relocation bracket has been flexing / rubbing on the underlying axle bracket. Unfortunately for me (my wallet) I do not have a welder, nor any ability to weld, and I'm pretty sure during a pandemic is The Wrong Time to try and get taught well enough to attack a project like this. So now I'm debating having a shop weld this all back together, or just replace the D35 with a Ford 8.8. There's a shop in Colorado that apparently ships out ready-to-go 8.8s for $1200-1400 - wonder if I could get a junkyard 8.8 to a local shop put together for the same or less.
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Apr 22, 2020 01:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Speaking of Joop thangs: I've priced it out, and it depends what lengths you go on refurbishing one from the junkyard. I don't know about the shop in CO, but I priced it out and I could come out with a better equipped axle than what East Coast Gear offers for the same money, however, that's mostly because I have a guy who is a Mustang nut lined up to build the axle for very little cash if I supply the parts. He's gear swapped a zillion Mustangs including mine 15 years ago and already has all the tools for working on the 8.8. If you take a junkyard axle to a local shop, I'd bet you'd end up pretty close to the $1200-$1400 range.
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Apr 22, 2020 03:40
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Here's the $1200 8.8 option. Not sure how I'd handle getting it home - do freight terminals have a lift to get poo poo into a truck bed?  Of course now that I bother to google the shop name (SFF Customs) I see a few angry threads here and there, though I'm pretty sure every goddamn Jeep shop has at least a few of those. I dunno. I'm in no hurry here.
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Apr 22, 2020 03:59
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Sff customs seems to be run by one of the guys I used to know via NAXJA. I never had a super good feeling about him then and reading a lot of this doesn't surprise me much. If you were local to him and paying cash on pickup I'd consider it but recovering funds from a deal gone bad via the Internet is just too much of a hassle.
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Apr 22, 2020 05:43
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Applebees Appetizer posted:So how does the 3.8 V6 compare to the 3.6 Pentastar reliability wise? Come to the dark side and get a diesel
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Apr 22, 2020 07:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Not sure how I'd handle getting it home - do freight terminals have a lift to get poo poo into a truck bed? I have taken freight delivery and they just brought a forklift out. In my experience, they're happy to let you pick up from their terminal, versus sending a truck to your house.
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Apr 22, 2020 16:49
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angryrobots posted:I have taken freight delivery and they just brought a forklift out. In my experience, they're happy to let you pick up from their terminal, versus sending a truck to your house. Yeah, pretty much be a nice guy ask nicely and they'll toss it in your pickup. Just don't expect the dust shields to come out pristine.
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Apr 22, 2020 17:12
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Which manual trans is used for the JK? I test drove one and it felt like garbage compared to the manual XJ I used to have.....I'm assuming TJs use the same setup as the XJ. Could be it wasn't taken care of well, but the clutch was stiff as hell and the shifter was crap.
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Apr 27, 2020 15:23
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Which manual trans is used for the JK? I test drove one and it felt like garbage compared to the manual XJ I used to have.....I'm assuming TJs use the same setup as the XJ. TJs have AX-5, AX-15, NV3550 or NSG370 depending on year and engine. The XJs had the AX transmissions. I don't know what is in the JK though.
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Apr 27, 2020 16:16
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XJs got NV3550s in 00+ but they were very rarely manual by then. I have no idea what jks got, probably nsg370 and some others? Check Novak Conversions tech info section, they probably know.
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Apr 27, 2020 16:29
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Did some digging and it looks like the JK has a Chrysler NSG370 6 speed manual, bleh. Not impressed with the way it felt at all. My XJ ('98) was a 4.0 so that means it was an AX15 iirc. I liked it a lot, guess I'll have to stick with a TJ if I'm gonna get a manual. I'll have to test drive an automatic JK too and see how that feels. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Apr 27, 2020 |
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Apr 27, 2020 16:32
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As I recall some late TJs with the new 4 cylinder (not the 2.5) got the nsg370 as well. It's been years but I think I worked on one for a friend in like 2012 or 2013. I think some super late 4.0s got it too? Just make sure to get a 5 speed if you don't like the 6 speed I guess. I've not driven one in forever and can't remember how I liked them. Edit:. Yup. 05+ 4.0 and 2.4 got the nsg370. 04- 4.0 and 2.5 got the nv3550 or AX15 depending on year. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Apr 27, 2020 |
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Apr 27, 2020 16:37
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How is the "new" 4 cylinder in the TJ's? Are those just as worthless as the old ones? [e] lol an '05 I was just going to look at has the 6 speed gently caress me Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Apr 27, 2020 |
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Apr 27, 2020 16:55
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I mean, you're the first person I've run into who actually dislikes them, that one could have just been hosed up. If you already made an appointment I might be tempted to just try it out anyways. I dunno. My friend who had it seemed to like it (shy boy from chess clubs aunt, actually) but I only took it for a spin around the block after we did the driveshaft and axle ujoints and unit bearings, so the most I can really say is "it's a motor and will do 40mph"
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Apr 27, 2020 17:02
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