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I heard there was a call for pictures? This is my 2007 XC70 "Polestar GT" Maintenance: full stage 0 water pump exhaust manifold replacement w/ 5 helicoil installs between the manifold and the turbo god drat fresh turbo CHRA Mods: Polestar tune (love the TCU software, it's really fast changing gears compared to my 03 V70 2.4T with the FWD AW55/50) Hilton stage 2 making anywhere from 280 to 350 horsepower I really need to get on a dynamometer am I right folks c Snabb downpipe with GESI high flow cat do88 intercooler + stainless charge pipe IPD oval catback exhaust (had to weld, would recommend throwing clamps in garbage and driving your car with no exhaust to the exhaust shop instead of using the included clamps) IPD sway bars Bad Swede lift springs - needed Moog oblong camber bolts in the BOTTOM HOLE!!!!! to get back to factory spec camber @ -0.5° Volvotech.eu Canbus Function Extender <3 B&M aux ATF cooler Derale trans filter w/ B253 oversize filter (fits in the engine block heater slot) IPD aluminum strike plate Kaplhenke strut bearing Kaplhenke delrin subframe inserts also hello AI
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Feb 25, 2020 22:08
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zundfolge posted:The V50 is a euro Focus in Volvo clothing, I really like mine. The biggest Achilles heel they have is the cooling system - there’s a lot of plastic in it and they don’t have a low coolant light so if something breaks and starts leaking there’s basically no warning before the engine starts overheating. If you replace/have a shop replace the radiator hoses and coolant reservoir it should be fine. The PCV system had some issues as installed from the factory during certain years but at this point most of them have had the troublesome parts replaced. That one looks clean and if it has a good maintenance history then it’s probably a good buy. I have a 2004 v50 t5 and it's a really fun car to drive, though the interior design is annoying, lots of little bits of space but they're never quite big enough to be useful and the boot is not that large, it's more like a hatchback than a real station wagon. it's been fairly reliable - issues we've had are the front struts started knocking, the cd player died, the air conditioning sometimes stops blowing cold, and the plastic coolant reservoir sprung a leak and needed replacement, nothing major.
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Feb 25, 2020 22:22
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sebmojo posted:I have a 2004 v50 t5 and it's a really fun car to drive, though the interior design is annoying, lots of little bits of space but they're never quite big enough to be useful and the boot is not that large, it's more like a hatchback than a real station wagon. Mine had all those problems except for the struts. I was able to fix the AC issue with the zip tie fix (basically, using zip ties wrapped around the compressor clutch springs to shim the clutch gap tighter) and I lurked eBay to find the newest CD changer I could that matched the part number in my car. Seems like they went through a few revisions and they’re not all compatible. MrOnBicycle is right about the audio but I think 2007 was the first year that got an (optional?) aux jack so at least it has that going for it. 
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Feb 26, 2020 03:33
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To provide a contrary opinion we have an S40 of that vintage and it's a hateful pile, when it needed more work than it was worth (springs and dampers, fuel pump, front calipers) to get through the mot I left it to rot in the driveway because it's worthless and neither my wife or I like it in any way I really need to get it towed away, it's going green on the outside and fuzzy white inside.
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Feb 29, 2020 18:52
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Mandalay posted:Pretty stoked about my new (to me) 2018 V90. Non-CC, T5 with the factory Polestar tune. I test drove another T5 without the tune and I think it makes a difference despite the minor hp difference on paper. Someone had it for 15 months and drove it under 5k miles. I paid ~$19k less than the MSRP and ~$17k less than the invoice price as configured. The Polestar tune on my v60 doesn't seem to do much for power but it does a lot for the transmission programming. Having an automatic that will actually hold gears for you makes a big difference.
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Feb 29, 2020 20:21
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On the Xc70 topic, my S60 R-Design with the 3.0 is several years newer but the same P3 architecture. So far the big things I’ve needed to replace the upper torque rod and the passengers engine mount (fortunately both of these are pretty easy, on top and next to each other) and the strut bearings (a pain). I’ve also had to replace both rear electronic brakes and those go to the tune of $200 apiece, but that’s on me since they were probably owned before I purchased it. Be careful installing them. Other then that I’d recommend replacing the transmission fluid.
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Mar 1, 2020 04:39
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Bought a 2013 XC60 T6 and have spent more time with a loaner than the actual car. So, after what, 6 months CarMax has bought this thing back, bought the warranty back, bought the transportation fee. Its like we never owned it and had free loaners for 6 months. We got another XC60 through Carmax , a 2014 R-Design and well. This thing loving rocks. No problems, drives like a motherfucker. Love it. 
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Mar 3, 2020 03:15
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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It’s a super fun car, I think RD got some larger brakes which it needs Just had a strut bearing and front coil spring replaced, getting some stone chips that need rust repair, minor stuff. The AC growl is annoying but not a detriment to its operation. Car is getting towards the 10 year mark in a salty winter clime and I drive like al Unser jr so it’s been remarkable. In a less salty brutal area this thing should last for gobs of time - it is a really nice car Congrats on getting out of the lemon - that makes me feel a lot better about using carmax in the future
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Mar 3, 2020 03:35
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Partycat posted:It’s a super fun car, I think RD got some larger brakes which it needs Yeah I don't see myself buying any other way at this point. This one has 24k miles and in California. So its pretty tits. The bill that Carmax got from the Volvo dealer had my eyes popping out. We asked them what they planned on doing with the car, they said they are just going to sell it off at auction.
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Mar 3, 2020 04:13
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Hello Volvo folks. I've got a 2012 s60 (rip my totaled c30) with a little under 75k miles on it, recently had the 75k mile service done by a Volvo mechanic near my work. Today when I started it up I got treated to white smoke coming out from under the hood passenger side and smoke smell from the AC vents. Shut off the AC and car, tried again with no AC and no smoke, tried the AC back on and not really cooling anymore. I've got an appointment to bring it in to my guy in a few days and he said to leave the AC off in the meanwhile. No warning lights or anything went off. Thoughts on how much of a bite out of my wallet I might be looking at?
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Mar 4, 2020 21:34
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I had something similar happen on an older Volvo and it was a seized AC compressor. Mine was a little more dramatic in terms of smoke, but the rest lines up.
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Mar 4, 2020 22:31
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That's what the mechanic had mentioned and my own research points to a compressor issue, yeah.
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Mar 4, 2020 22:49
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If it makes you feel any better I have same model, same year and I replaced the a/c compressor at about the same mileage. Although, mine just worked intermittently and less in warm weather, no catastrophic failure
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Mar 4, 2020 23:10
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Mmmm... tinty. Got it tinted this week, 20% on the back and 30% on the front doors. I remembered wrong, I had 5% on my T5 but told him to do 20. I think it's better though as I can still see out of the car at night. I was terrified of backing in to things in my T5, I always put my windows down in case someone yelled. Then today did some cleaning and touched up 3 chips that had black plastic showing through on the doors and the big one on the bumper.  Looks great until you get right up on it. I'm going to let it cure and try to wet sand it down. Now I'm trying to decide if I want the Bilstein B8 shocks on it, I don't want a harsh ride but I don't mind sporty. The "Sport" setting on my R with stock springs was the perfect ride. I already bought the H&R springs for this so I'm just a little gun-shy. Also these wheels need serious cleaning up.
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Mar 8, 2020 23:22
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Update: seized compressor that took out a belt in the process. It's going to be a tight month now after that.
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Mar 9, 2020 18:30
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I don't have lowering springs, but I do have B6s in my Outback and I like them very much.
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Mar 10, 2020 12:52
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Twiztidlojik posted:I heard there was a call for pictures? This is my 2007 XC70 "Polestar GT" This is a sweet build–how many miles did the car have when you started? I may be driving across the country soon. What would be the things to cover for a Stage 0 (P2 XC70)? I'm thinking - PCV (just checked with glove test, there is suction) - coils (replaced one, will carry spare) - timing belt - plugs - ATF drain+fill Also, what's a good replacement for the plastic wire tubing/wrap that keeps breaking on a car this old? Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Mar 10, 2020 |
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Mar 10, 2020 20:31
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Suicide Watch posted:This is a sweet build–how many miles did the car have when you started? Not sure of your mileage on it but would also consider: Checking engine/trans/exhaust mounts CV boots for leaks Brake/Steering Fluid/Radiator flushes Water pump with your timing belt
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Mar 10, 2020 21:27
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LOL holy poo poo. I got my new plates in for the wife's XC60 and that's when I found out that CARMAX just ran screws right into the rear deck lid. I remember watching, half paying attention, of the guy running in screws and having a hard time at the top holes because of the angle. I didn't know he was just running the screws directly into the body, thought he was using the factory mount holes so I didn't think anything of it and I was preoccupied putting in car seats for the kids. When I went to remove the paper dealer plates I saw two attempted holes in the body for the top of the frame. That didn't work so they just ran in the bottom ones... into the body. The same order of procedure can be seen on the paper plate as well, so its very obvious that they did it, and nobody else. We've already sent an email to them with the photos. I'll see if i can get the photos from the wife. loving poo poo.
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Mar 17, 2020 05:49
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Yeah there is a plate bracket kit for the front at least but IIRC the rear has holes if you’re not a dullard . Hopefully can be patched or hidden but still lovely.
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Mar 18, 2020 03:55
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Just bought an '18 S60 T5 for my wife (after the '16 evoque she had poo poo the bed in the most beautiful way three weeks after buying it). Great little car and really enjoying it so far. I used to have an '06 S40 T5 and it definitely has that feel, though I miss the honest-to-god five cylinder noise. She told me she saw white smoke coming out of the tailpipes on the highway, though, which was shocking (but whatever, warranty applies), but when I tested it it turns out it was the headlight sprayers misting up and off to the sides... I think we're okay.
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Mar 28, 2020 21:09
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Suicide Watch posted:This is a sweet build–how many miles did the car have when you started? Those are good, but don't forget the accessory belt, tensioner, and if your car's old enough, maybe some random tubing. Also, check your brake fluid and make sure it doesn't smell like a moldy gym from the 1920s, and if it does, you should go ahead and bleed it and maybe even replace the calipers depending on how far gone the fluid was. Lastly, make sure your hydraulic hood strut thing is nice and strong if you want to do lots of work. Oh! And the little 6" rubber trim thing at the bottom corners of the windshield. If that thing goes bad for any reason between sunlight and road debris there's a TON of cabin noise at highway speeds. The plastic loom things are these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panduit/CLT50N-C630?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu0U91RtH3We1PKiAAXCierLWAVf3rSzP4%3D
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Mar 30, 2020 19:21
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Was S80 P2 T6 or 2.9 ever available in manual in RHD? I have severe Stockholm (Gothenburg?) syndrome
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Apr 9, 2020 14:33
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Worldwide I think it was, but not in the USA. And it may have only been on the T5, but I do know the bell housing bolt pattern is the same. I know someone on Swedespeed from like the Dominican Republic or somewhere did a manual swap in an S80, maybe dig in and look for that. Basically if you can find one in a junkyard, look for the clutch master blanking plate on the firewall under the brake booster. If that's there, it came in manual in some form.
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Apr 9, 2020 16:13
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T6 was never offered with a manual option in any market AFAIK, 2.9 and the T5 was. No clue about any specific combos for RHD versions.
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Apr 10, 2020 14:38
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Kivi posted:Was S80 P2 T6 or 2.9 ever available in manual in RHD? I have severe Stockholm (Gothenburg?) syndrome 2.9 was available with the 5-speed manual, but that variant was very rare. T6 manual never reached production, but was removed fairly late in development, as there were pre-production prototypes built at the time. Rumor has it that three of those got out through the Volvo 'employee used car sales' by mistake. I remember some of them ended up in the internal car pool at Volvo before they were scrapped. (IMHO that drivetrain never matched the car well.)
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Apr 10, 2020 23:07
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Yay! The sunroof in my 2004 XC90 has become lopsided, the passenger side is in the lifted position and the driver's side is in closed position.
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Apr 11, 2020 19:32
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Can the speedometer be calibrated via software?
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Apr 17, 2020 15:40
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Dealer very likely can, definitely not available in the publicly available editions of VIDA, and something like VDASH may be worth a shot if you've got a DiCE. e: Oh also I bought the C30 a present  Got some of the late RDesign springs coming to replace the hogged out 10 year old Eibachs too. And a stupid obnoxious muffler because I am 12 Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 01:59
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Figured I'd do the haldex fluid in the xc90 since it's got 150k on it now and after fighting the pump forever I finally got it out only to see that the fluid was practically brand new. Jokes on me I guess. Would living in a place where the AWD system doesn't get used much prolong the life of said fluid?
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Apr 21, 2020 04:52
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This isn't specifically a Volvo issue but I'm looking to replace the rubber seal on the outside of the drivers side door on my XC70. The seal at the bottom of the window. Anyone know what that's called or what I should be searching for? This is coming loose on the front drivers side window and I noticed it's gone completely on the rear one.
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Apr 21, 2020 15:51
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Frohike999 posted:This isn't specifically a Volvo issue but I'm looking to replace the rubber seal on the outside of the drivers side door on my XC70. The seal at the bottom of the window. Anyone know what that's called or what I should be searching for? This is coming loose on the front drivers side window and I noticed it's gone completely on the rear one. https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2004/volvo/v70/2-5t-awd-trim/2-5l-l5-gas-engine/body-cat/exterior-trim-front-door-scat Available brand new for $50 plus shipping. P/N 8643178 for left drivers. 8643180 for the left rear door. Bump the p/n by 1 for the right side. You can use the part numbers to shop around, but Tasca usually has the best prices.
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Apr 21, 2020 17:32
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NumbersMatching320 posted:Dealer very likely can, definitely not available in the publicly available editions of VIDA, and something like VDASH may be worth a shot if you've got a DiCE. e: well later = right now I guess VDASH Features for P2 posted:Tire size / wheel circumference change - SW adjustment only Thanks NumbersMatching. Anyone got other neat volvo tools I should know about? taqueso fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 17:57
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LloydDobler posted:https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2004/volvo/v70/2-5t-awd-trim/2-5l-l5-gas-engine/body-cat/exterior-trim-front-door-scat Thank you! I might go look at junkyard first at $50 but I at least know what to look for if I don't have luck there.
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Apr 21, 2020 18:05
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Howdy Volvo Friends! I've been directed here by my good friends in TFR. Please be gentle if I say anything stupid, I've not really been to AI before. I'm looking to purchase a used Volvo. My favorite car ever was an 87' 740 GLE and I've missed it my whole life. That's why I'm looking for a Volvo. I've got a leg disability, so I will only be getting this car for puttering around town. It's not going to be doing 30 miles a day to and from a job. Because of my legs, I'm not going to be able to work on this car myself. I'm OK with putting some money into a car, but I don't want to buy a money pit that will require me to get another one in six months. Here is what I'm looking at - Used Volvos on Craigslist and dealers that are 3k and under. I'm trying to avoid anything that says turbo. In my price range, I'm seeing a lot of cars with over 150k miles from the late 90's and early 00's. I've got a few that I'm currently chatting with the owners about, but I'd also welcome Goon advice. What type of Volvos should I avoid? Are there any real big pitfalls, like models with poo poo transmissions and the like. Also, should I post the cars I'm looking at here? I appreciate the help in advance!
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Apr 21, 2020 22:06
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If that's your favorite car and you don't mind the updated styling, I'd get you some 940 or 960 action. Go for 93 or newer. The 4 cylinder 940s are among the most reliable cars ever made. I also wouldn't hesitate to pick up a turbo model, they aren't any less reliable. The straight 6s have a bad rep because people don't maintain the belts and it junks the motor when either one goes. But keep the accessory belt and timing belt fresh and those will also go to 300k miles easily. 900 series are identical to the 700 series except the trunk lid is elevated which gives it even more cargo space. But with cars that old, newer is better. The latest cars had all the bugs worked out. They're still fairly popular so parts are still avaialble. Where are you located? This is an example of something you might want: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=354082 Also, cruise the swedespeed and turbobricks classifieds, usually the nicest ones show up there. It's just a crapshoot whether or not it'll be local to you. Don't post everything you see, but if you find one that you're really considering, link it and we'll sanity check it for you.
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Apr 21, 2020 23:37
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I'm in Portland, which seems to be heaven for used Volvos. When I lived in the south, there wasn't near as many to choose from. I've got a bunch of feelers out right now and I'm making a spreadsheet of cars I want to see. I'll probably be aiming to see some cars on Sunday and Monday, so I'll present what I have it narrowed down to beforehand. I'm really hopeful about a $800 1992 240 wagon. I swear to God, if that car works I'm getting it. For that price, it's hard to lose. I have a decent amount of savings and my family has a small income, but I'm as fixed income as it gets. Cheaper, especially when it's just for me to dick around town in, is always better. Thanks for the help and advice as well!
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Apr 22, 2020 01:07
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I grew up in the outskirts of Portland, and I plan to move back there later this year. My dad ran a Volvo shop for 25 years, we're die hards. He's retired and old, and I want to wind down the clock with him.
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Apr 22, 2020 01:46
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LloydDobler posted:I grew up in the outskirts of Portland, and I plan to move back there later this year. My dad ran a Volvo shop for 25 years, we're die hards. He's retired and old, and I want to wind down the clock with him. Mind if I ask you a question? Who is a good Volvo mechanic around here that isn't dealership levels of expensive? With my leg disability, I don't have any ability to do work on the car myself. I'm already factoring in repairs and maintenance being a thing with getting cars this old and high mileage. But if it throws an engine or transmission, I'm out!
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Apr 22, 2020 08:05
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Currently parked in my driveway is my dad's 2011 Volvo V50 2.0D. It's the one with the silly french diesel engine, and has been featured in this thread previously for some other shenanigans. It has an electrical issue. This winter it was left stranded a couple times with no power and wouldn't start. Battery got replaced, and things were fine for a couple months. Now, it has done the same thing a couple more times, and also throws an "electrical system malfunction" message about 20 seconds after starting. My dad checked battery voltage (after charging the battery, and then starting the engine) and said he had just under 12 volts, which sounds to me like a car not charging at all but just running off of the battery. I drove it home (prepared with a couple extra batteries not sure how long it would last), and checked the voltmeter here and there throughout the short trip. I consistently got between 14.0-14.7V with the headlights off (I turned them and the AC and fan to save battery power), about 13.2-13.7V with the headlights on, and voltage varies a bit with engine rpms. Got back home without issues, and the battery seemed just about full (a bit over 13V). So, it seems to me it is charging at least intermittently, but doesn't a lot of the time (and probably what happened this winter which seemed just like a worn out battery), and when it does charge it does act a bit weird. Voltage usually varies a little bit with load and rpm, but I don't think I've seen it move about this wildly on a modern car. I'd expect it to vary a few tenths of a volt, but not 1.5V from just turning off the headlights and raising rpm's a little bit. My guess: The regulator and/or rectifier on the alternator are busted, and I should replace them both. Parts are cheap ($15-20 each), and I think I can get to those without even having to remove the alternator from the engine bay. How far off is that guess likely to be from reality?
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Apr 22, 2020 09:29
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