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22 Eargesplitten posted:gently caress, apparently Rockauto won't ship to CO anymore because of a law that got passed that requires vendors to pay the sales taxes to each individual city/county/state, which is a huge pain for them. Any good alternatives other than Amazon? Cage fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Apr 28, 2020 |
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Apr 28, 2020 22:33
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Autozone and Advance are charging like twice as much. Talking a $55 strut on Rockauto is $108 on Advance. I looked at Tire Rack, they're like $80-90 for the struts. I'll look at other places. Both autozone and advance near me will price match rockauto. But in that situation I'm sure they know the don't need to so you're probably out of luck.
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Apr 28, 2020 23:34
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Question for the thread: I've been looking more closely at the car I just got, turns out it's not as flawless as I thought before: Mercury Grand Marquis, 2002, 135k miles So at idle in Park, the RPM was steady at ~800, but if I turned on the AC, the idle became unsteady, jumping between 800 and 1200 RPM, speeding up, then slowing down repeatedly. Conventional advice for that is dirty throttle body, so I cleaned that, and also disconnected the battery to have the car re-learn the fuel maps and the auto trans "adaptive strategy" whatever that means. The problem became less pronounced but didn't go away, so I decided to collect more data With the engine warm and steady: Throttle: always 18% (I think this is an artifact of the reader. The normal voltage range for the throttle position sensor is 1 v - 5 v for this engine, so I'm guessing it's seeing 1/5 volts and saying "20% throttle". I need to double check the TPS one more time, but I manually checked its resistances and they range from .75 to 3.2 kOhms across the signal and ground and 3.4 kOhms across the power and ground, so it seems like it's probably not in great shape, but not like completely broken either) Park, AC off: Spark Advance: 22 degrees MAF indicates 5.2 g/s Calculated load: 14% RPM: 800 steady Short & Long Term Fuel Trim both at 0 for both banks O2 sensors are doing their thing bouncing around. My scanner doesn't graph O2 output over time so I couldn't figure out if they were centered at .5V, but if the fuel trim is at 0, presumably the O2 sensors are fine. Park, AC on: Calculated load barely budges up to 15%, Spark Advance is steady at 10 degrees, But RPM and MAF are both bouncy between 800-950 and 7.5-9 respectively Everything else is the same, fuel trims are all still at 0 Drive, AC off: Load is now calculated at 22% (presumably because I am now churning the viscous coupling?) RPM drops down to 580, which I think is on the low side of normal for a 2V 4.6 ford modular? Spark advance is at 14 degrees, MAF is 5.0 g/s, fuel trims are still rock steady at 0 Drive, AC on: Load is same 22%, RPM is 630, and Spark advance is now 5 degrees The fact that the fuel trims never budge from 0 makes me think that it's not any kind of intake or exhaust leakage issue. I am not sure if this kind of a difference between Drive and Park is expected or not. I'm trying to learn how to diagnose more complicated engines based on the OBD2 data streams, so I my current best guess is that either the transmission is putting too much resistance on the crankshaft when it's Park, and the engine doesn't know what to do about that so it just kicks in extra fuel when it detects that it's about to stall, or maybe this is somehow due to dirty spark plugs or something? I am confused by the fact that the main issue seems to be the specific combination of Park and AC on. Thoughts would be appreciated. (Also is that normal behavior for that spark advance?) DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 00:57
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My scanner reads the TPS at 20% at idle on my Ford Expedition FWIW.
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Apr 29, 2020 12:55
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C-Bangin' it 
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Yeah I was gonna mention, 20-30% at idle is normal. It has to let some air by.
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Apr 29, 2020 14:21
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DBW runs 15-30% at idle depending on the car. So that's well within normal. Is your AC compressor actually engaging? If so, how well is the AC working? That kinda sounds like maybe the compressor isn't pulling as much power from the engine as the PCM expects - is it low on refrigerant? FWIW, My Saturn did the same thing when the charge was low, but not low enough to trip the low cutoff. Not quite as pronounced, but it was oscillating between 800-1000 with the AC on until I topped it off. Once the compressor took a poo poo, anytime I tried to turn it on, it kicked the idle up for a brief moment before letting it drop back down, but didn't bounce (PCM figured out that it wasn't working at that point, somehow - dunno if the pressure switches were tied into it, I suspect they were). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 16:18
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STR posted:Is your AC compressor actually engaging? If so, how well is the AC working? That kinda sounds like maybe the compressor isn't pulling as much power from the engine as the PCM expects - is it low on refrigerant? Seconding all of this. When my AC was acting up on my Ranger, the idle would hunt around because the computer just bumps it up without checking what the actual idle speed is.
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Apr 29, 2020 17:17
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Hmm... Thank you, that would make sense to check. There's no way to check R134 level other than a pressure gauge, right? The whole thing for "check for bubbles in the sightglass" only works for R12 as far as I understand it?
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Apr 29, 2020 19:56
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Mirconium posted:Hmm... Thank you, that would make sense to check. There's no way to check R134 level other than a pressure gauge, right? The whole thing for "check for bubbles in the sightglass" only works for R12 as far as I understand it? Well, I suppose you could safely say that your pressure is at zero if the lines are obviously ripped open...
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Apr 29, 2020 20:28
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I think 20% at idle is pretty normal and in fact if it would be lower you'd have a vacuum leak somewhere.
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Apr 30, 2020 00:32
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 Got a flat tire. Popping the tire off and patching the tube was easy enough. I can't for the life of me get this tire back on the rim. My bicycle levers just aren't doing it. I don't know if I really want to go out and buy a car size lever, or if there's something in between. I saw one guy on YouTube cut this wheel in half and then bolt it back together. I'm thinking of just buying a Harbor Freight wheel, but then I'd have to sleeve the wagon axle from 1/2" to 5/8".
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Apr 30, 2020 01:49
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Mirconium posted:Hmm... Thank you, that would make sense to check. There's no way to check R134 level other than a pressure gauge, right? The whole thing for "check for bubbles in the sightglass" only works for R12 as far as I understand it? If there's a sightglass, it works equally well for R134a. But a lot of cars don't have them anymore. And don't just check the low pressure side. Rent a proper set of gauges (most major parts stores will rent them for a deposit of the cost of the tool, you get a full refund when you return it). There's an AC megathread here.
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Apr 30, 2020 13:52
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How hosed is this? Click for big. It's a torsen gear from a RX7 FD differential. One tooth is chipped on one of the sets. The others are still fine. I don't see any evidence of damage to the mating gear. The car is intended to only be used for street driving. I've not yet been able to find a replacement gear, only complete differentials which I currently can't afford. I have no idea how long this has been damaged, I removed the oil for the first time this week, and the tooth came out on the magnet. How hosed would I be if I kept driving on this until I found a replacement? Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Apr 30, 2020 |
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Apr 30, 2020 14:51
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in my non professional opinion it's pretty hosed and you might end up loving more stuff up especially if it continues to deteriorate and shed metal inside it's box. did you find the missing metal possibly drained out?
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Apr 30, 2020 15:01
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I just got an estimate from a body shop for fixing several scratches on my bumper from a minor rear end collision on my red 2019 Fit. They said it could range from 500 to 700 CAD (about 350 to 500 in USD). I don't know how much something like this should cost, so is this a reasonable quote he gave me? A bit more detail on the damage. Most of the dent from the collision was fixed using hair dryers to heat the plastic and pop it back out, but it's not quite perfect. There are several scratches that remain varying in size and depth, along with some fine cracks in the paint but they're barely visible. I'd take a picture but my phone's camera doesn't show most of the scratches properly.
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Apr 30, 2020 22:33
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It's likely a strip and repaint of the bumper, and maybe massaging it to fit, filling in scratches, etc. Sounds downright decent to me, IF they're repainting it. For that price I wouldn't expect them to fix anything aside from repainting and remounting. If they're just sanding/polishing though, that's a ripoff. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Apr 30, 2020 |
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Apr 30, 2020 23:43
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I got quoted $800 from two places to fill in some scratches and repaint a bumper two years ago.
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Apr 30, 2020 23:48
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tater_salad posted:did you find the missing metal possibly drained out? I don't understand this, but if you're asking if the metal piece came out with the oil, yes it did. It was the only piece I found.
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May 1, 2020 00:00
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Ask them exactly what they are going to do. That price is pretty reasonable for almost anything I can think of doing that would get you back to close-to-factory look, though
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May 1, 2020 00:04
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:How hosed is this? If this is something that was truly just stumbled upon and there wasn't some recent incident that prompted you to drain the oil and discover it, then there is an argument to be made that it's probably been like that for some period of time and not harmed anything, therefore it is definitely possible to get away with continuing to drive it. The flip side of that argument is that a lot of NTSB, CSB, etc. reports start with a tale of someone taking a known risk, having it work out, and then getting in the habit of doing that until one day the mix of systemic safeties, tolerances, and sheer dumb luck that let it work out changes and it goes wrong. If the damaged area sheds another piece, maybe this time you aren't so lucky and the magnet doesn't catch it the first time around. It cycles back and gets sucked in to the gearing at some point. At best it damages more parts, at worst it jams up something and you either suddenly have a spool or the entire diff locks up. Think about your rear wheels suddenly locking up at highway speed when weighing your options. Are there significantly cheaper open diffs that would be an affordable way to get you confidently back on the road while you either try to find replacement parts or save for a new LSD? wolrah fucked around with this message at 15:27 on May 1, 2020 |
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May 1, 2020 15:22
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wolrah posted:Are there significantly cheaper open diffs that would be an affordable way to get you confidently back on the road while you either try to find replacement parts or save for a new LSD? FD was LSD only. Right now it's just the scarcity of the parts that's problematic. When these units come up for sale, they are ~£100. Right now I'm looking at 3-4x that for a complete differential of unknown condition (this differential is otherwise working fine). I guess I'll just be taking the car off the road for a few months until something pops up.
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May 1, 2020 21:27
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My 2017 VW Golf developed a squeak, and after some misdiagnosis the dealership found it was caused by the crankshaft pulley. When they replaced that, they ended up causing the timing to jump "a little bit". They're going to correct this and replace a timing chain guide and a handful of other parts. My question: Is there anything I should be concerned about with this being an interference engine (1.8T)? If valves were at all bent, how would I know? Sounds like it was an honest mistake, and they're doing the right thing, but I want to make sure everything is 100%.
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May 2, 2020 13:46
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Sashimi posted:I just got an estimate from a body shop for fixing several scratches on my bumper from a minor rear end collision on my red 2019 Fit. They said it could range from 500 to 700 CAD (about 350 to 500 in USD). I don't know how much something like this should cost, so is this a reasonable quote he gave me? The only damage to mine was tiny dents and scratches from the other guy's license plate screws. My 3 series was probably the cheapest car at the body shop, and it was $650 to other guy's insurance to be fixed. If it had been my old car, I wouldn't have bothered, but I bought it 3 weeks prior.  I got tapped by a 1983 Chevy Broughammer camper van conversion. The old dude literally said to me "it just went forward I don't know what happened!" You took your foot off the brake, rear end in a top hat.
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May 2, 2020 15:10
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nitsuga posted:My 2017 VW Golf developed a squeak, and after some misdiagnosis the dealership found it was caused by the crankshaft pulley. When they replaced that, they ended up causing the timing to jump "a little bit". They're going to correct this and replace a timing chain guide and a handful of other parts. My question: Is there anything I should be concerned about with this being an interference engine (1.8T)? If valves were at all bent, how would I know? You'll know pretty quick. It'll be way down on power, won't sound the same while cranking (also while idling if you're near the exhaust, one bent exhaust valve and it'll sound like putt putt putt FFT putt putt putt FFT), it'll be prone to backfiring.. and that's assuming it runs at all. If it jumped 1 tooth, on a lot of engines that's no big deal, it just won't run (or runs like poo poo). Get them to do a compression and leakdown test though. They should be doing that anyway after a suspected timing belt mishap, but dealers will be dealers.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:57 on May 2, 2020 |
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May 2, 2020 16:54
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STR posted:You'll know pretty quick. It'll be way down on power, won't sound the same while cranking (also while idling if you're near the exhaust, one bent exhaust valve and it'll sound like putt putt putt FFT putt putt putt FFT), it'll be prone to backfiring.. and that's assuming it runs at all. Thanks, I thought it might be something like that. I'll give them a call on Monday and ask about getting either or both of those tests done.
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May 2, 2020 17:29
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Does anyone have a tip to get out a stuck lower rear shock bolt on a truck? The bolt spins freely, however I can see that inner sleeve spinning inside the shock bushing along with the bolt. I already slathered it in PB Blaster and about mushroomed the bolt end with a hammer. Whoever did the shocks before I owned it mounted the bolts pointing at the wheel, so I can't get a good swing on it anyway.
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May 2, 2020 19:34
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kid sinister posted:Does anyone have a tip to get out a stuck lower rear shock bolt on a truck? The bolt spins freely, however I can see that inner sleeve spinning inside the shock bushing along with the bolt. I already slathered it in PB Blaster and about mushroomed the bolt end with a hammer. Whoever did the shocks before I owned it mounted the bolts pointing at the wheel, so I can't get a good swing on it anyway. I'm assuming it's in double sheer, so sawzall on the inside if you have space. Or depressurize/drain the shock and slag it with the blue tipped wrench.
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May 2, 2020 19:41
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kid sinister posted:Does anyone have a tip to get out a stuck lower rear shock bolt on a truck? The bolt spins freely, however I can see that inner sleeve spinning inside the shock bushing along with the bolt. I already slathered it in PB Blaster and about mushroomed the bolt end with a hammer. Whoever did the shocks before I owned it mounted the bolts pointing at the wheel, so I can't get a good swing on it anyway. Read up on the angle grinder talk in the tool thread. Grind or smoke it off. And of course have a means to procure replacement of said bolt.
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May 2, 2020 19:44
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Motronic posted:I'm assuming it's in double sheer, so sawzall on the inside if you have space. Or depressurize/drain the shock and slag it with the blue tipped wrench. Won't that just set the rubber bushing on fire?
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May 2, 2020 19:50
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If it's pointing at the wheel... take the wheel off? Also, this is where an air hammer can be worth its weight in gold.
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May 2, 2020 19:55
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kid sinister posted:Won't that just set the rubber bushing on fire? Yup. I always have a hose or pressurized water extinguisher when I'm using the gas axe. Colostomy bag has a good idea too on the grinder. It all really depends on what you've got at hand and what kind of access you have to the bolt.
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May 2, 2020 20:05
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Does anyone know what would cause the fuel rail side injector O rings to keep blowing out? I've changed them 3 times in our 2000 Camry 2.2 but within 5 miles they're blown again and dumping fuel on the intake.
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May 2, 2020 20:29
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Motronic posted:Yup. I always have a hose or pressurized water extinguisher when I'm using the gas axe. Angle grinder with a cutting wheel worked! However, I got a new problem. I discovered why the ride was so rough. The back left shock broke off the top mount. Of course the mount is both riveted to the frame and on the side with the fuel lines, so that will be fun to cut off. The good news is that its bottom bolt came out without issue! It has a pretty nice groove too, so it looks like they're both getting replaced. Autoexec.bat posted:Does anyone know what would cause the fuel rail side injector O rings to keep blowing out? I've changed them 3 times in our 2000 Camry 2.2 but within 5 miles they're blown again and dumping fuel on the intake. Is the pressure crazy high?
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May 2, 2020 20:40
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Motronic posted:Yup. I always have a hose or pressurized water extinguisher when I'm using the gas axe. Reminds me of another grand Ford engineering decision for the rear suspension/control arms. If (and a big if) you were actually able to remove the nut, you would find that the bolt cannot be removed because it will hit the fuel tank. So in other words, just cut the drat bolt or drop the tank. I can probably guess what dealers charged for that one. Simple solution of course would be to fasten it the opposite way.
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May 2, 2020 21:00
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kid sinister posted:Angle grinder with a cutting wheel worked! However, I got a new problem. I discovered why the ride was so rough. The back left shock broke off the top mount. Of course the mount is both riveted to the frame and on the side with the fuel lines, so that will be fun to cut off. Gotta be a little more detailed on this one...mount is still there but the shock basically broke at the neck?
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May 2, 2020 21:08
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Autoexec.bat posted:Does anyone know what would cause the fuel rail side injector O rings to keep blowing out? I've changed them 3 times in our 2000 Camry 2.2 but within 5 miles they're blown again and dumping fuel on the intake. Did you lubricate them? Just a drop of oil on your finger is all it takes. Just spitballing suggestions.
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May 2, 2020 21:16
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Colostomy Bag posted:Gotta be a little more detailed on this one...mount is still there but the shock basically broke at the neck? Well, most of the mount is still there I suppose. The tip with the bolt that shock fit over broke off of the mount. That tip was still in the top of the shock when I took off the shock.
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May 2, 2020 21:26
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I'm trying to fix a car that hit a curb with the front left wheel. I'm not seeing any obvious bend in the control arm, the sway bar link is still intact, seems to have gotten away without any major structural issues. It drives, but wobbles. I do notice that it seems to have a pretty significant amount of positive camber on that wheel, not like inverse hellaflush, but a few degrees at least. The wheel has a part where it got scraped pretty badly, which seems like it could throw the balance off, but it's holding air and I don't think that would cause the positive camber. What are the most common suspects I should be looking for? Going to try putting the spare on to rule out a bent rim, wondering if it might be a damaged wheel bearing as well. Possibly a slightly bent tie rod? I know when I fixed my Subaru after a similar (but far worse) accident it had an imperceptibly bent tie rod that had to be replaced before the alignment could be done.
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May 3, 2020 00:01
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Bent wheel for sure if it's wobbling, wheel bearing is likely toast (it'll start howling soon enough). Probably tie rod and control arm (control arm is what's likely causing the camber), may have even bent the shock/strut. Ball joint(s) are suspect as well. I've done the same thing, it was easiest to just grab the complete suspension for that corner from a junkyard. And cheaper in the end - unbolt the complete assembly, insert complete assembly, swear because you didn't get the tie rod and your old one looks like a pretzel, but a complete used assembly (and the labor if you're not doing it yourself) is far cheaper and much easier than chasing problems. The second time I did it, I wound up having to replace the subframe, steering rack, and the LF suspension.  (MUCH harder hit, the front wheels were looking like \ / with the front tires howling the entire time it moved, engine was also moved over a bit). My mechanic grabbed the subframe complete with the steering rack, only hit me for $2k in the end including alignment. gently caress people who run stop signs, BTW. Especially on a curve when it's pouring. Shockingly, the wheel didn't get bent that time, though the tire had a good bubble in it.
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May 3, 2020 13:51
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Bought a house with a driveway that doesn't support turning around (and has raised edges), and I've always been complete rear end at backing up. My car predates the rearview camera revolution (2011 Mazda 2 disturbingly green edition w/ sport trim; no aftermarket upgrades of any kind) so I'm wondering what the good options are for retrofitting. A hasty google implies there are a few options ranging from cheap to moderately expensive wireless kits with varying reliability, plus wired kits that are more intrusive; and various mount options. Are there any obvious / well liked top picks/brands/styles in this space or should I just buckle up and read a pile of reviews? Bonus: if some rearview options come as part of / work well with, getting the factory stereo head replaced with a modern big-ol-screen edition, I'm contemplating that upgrade sometime as well. Kinda sick of not being able to control audio playback with my steering wheel, etc.
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May 3, 2020 17:51
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