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lenoon posted:Yeah you have to really mix the snakebite leather every single time. Goes on well though once you’ve done that. BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:Make sure you're shaking the absolute gently caress out of it, other than that you just need to use more than you'd think in a single application. You may have gotten a bunk pot, though I will definitely try that next time!
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May 2, 2020 19:33
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Building a 3d printed layout for Warhammer 40K: Space Hulk because I can't find the game board pieces, and making my own that is painted is more fun.  I want to find individual battery power LED lights for the rooms (pictured here) and glue them into the rooms. 
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May 2, 2020 22:33
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I said come in! posted:Building a 3d printed layout for Warhammer 40K: Space Hulk because I can't find the game board pieces, and making my own that is painted is more fun. Put mobile phone wireless chargers in the bases, and put some induction LEDs into the models
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May 2, 2020 22:38
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ok I think I'm between World Eaters and Night Lords for this terminator at this point; so basically red or blue I feel like I have a lot of blue in the pipeline between that other (obviously intended to be) ultramarine captain I have, so at least Night Lords are a Different Blue and of course The LIGHTNING Vampires! maybe I should roll a die
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May 3, 2020 00:19
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World Eaters it is Blood for the Blood God
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May 3, 2020 00:24
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Trying to strip some stubborn primer off of a metal mini and the regular Purple Power bath isn't cutting it. I remember someone mentioning soaking metal stuff in acetone as a nuclear option - is there some special kind I need to get or are most people just using nail polish remover? Not sure if that stuff is pure or if it has any additives in it that could react funny.
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May 3, 2020 00:59
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same? Ex/ all the horses in a unit of 10 horsemen are painted brown. If you mix up the mount colors, are there any design insights on how to make it still feel cohesive? Is it challenging to keep a cohesive look when it’s fantastical mounts that are varied? Ex/ a bunch of pirate knights riding parrot mounts.
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May 3, 2020 01:06
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Trying to strip some stubborn primer off of a metal mini and the regular Purple Power bath isn't cutting it. I remember someone mentioning soaking metal stuff in acetone as a nuclear option - is there some special kind I need to get or are most people just using nail polish remover? Not sure if that stuff is pure or if it has any additives in it that could react funny. Straight acetone you get from the hardware store is fine. Enough to cover the model in a closed glass jar is all you need. Getting it on your skin is fine. It evaporates quickly and your liver processes small amounts without issue. Fumes are the real danger but as long as you're in a decent sized room and you're not huffing straight from the jar it's fine.
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May 3, 2020 01:51
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Ex/ all the horses in a unit of 10 horsemen are painted brown. That's what regimental colors, insignias and similar armor design is for. Horses in real life aren't all the same color, yet historical armies managed to have cohesive looks just the same. I would consider it odd if every horse in a unit was exactly the same color, with the exact same markings.
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May 3, 2020 10:49
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KozmoNaut posted:That's what regimental colors, insignias and similar armor design is for. Horses in real life aren't all the same color, yet historical armies managed to have cohesive looks just the same. 
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May 3, 2020 16:51
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my first time trying to highlight skin and I feel like I went too far but it looks okay at a distance. I figure they've been sitting on my shelf long enough. 
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May 3, 2020 17:54
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Sultan Tarquin posted:my first time trying to highlight skin and I feel like I went too far but it looks okay at a distance. I figure they've been sitting on my shelf long enough. I don't think you went too far, but I might try to do a glaze at the edges of the lightest bits, like on the front of the leg, just to blend it in a little
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May 3, 2020 18:03
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Looks good to me. It's possible to go too far but in general more contrast is a good thing.
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May 3, 2020 18:07
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I'll try the glaze, just got a wet palette too so trying to get a handle on paint consistency as well.
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May 3, 2020 18:21
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The faces on Malifaux figures are so goddamn tiny that I'm getting a headache from all the squinting.
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May 3, 2020 18:32
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Whoever called Brent from Goobertown Hobbies the Bob Ross of mini painting was spot-on. The dude's so calm and positive and makes me feel like all of my mistakes are okay.
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May 3, 2020 21:12
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I went back over the skin and it seemed to have knocked back the hard edges a little. Man highlighting is tough! Feelin pretty good about them though. Tails need another pass.  
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May 3, 2020 23:19
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Today was the first time I tried to do some more complicated freehand than basic geometric shapes or numbers. I got this Saruman figure with a palantír in hand and really wanted to make it look something more than a polished black crystal ball. So the eye of Sauron was an obvious choice and at first glance was something easier to pull off. So here are the results, before and after gloss varnishing it.  I'm really proud of how it turned out, and now I want to try to do more stuff like this!
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May 3, 2020 23:21
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Very nice! So, here I was thinking I just had a few old minis sitting around that I could paint when I found a Gift for May  I guess I didn't sell a chunk of these folks after all A couple of walkers  Huron Blackheart himself, in need of some TLC  A metal chaos lord  Some sorcerer  A squad of chosen and some other lord (these I was especially happy to find because I was kind of regretting not having some around earlier)  Some jumpy guys  A bunch of tacs   Some cultists  And a pack of termies  I guess I don't have to be so picky over chapters now! I can try out quite a few; plus now I have some primed models already ready to go and I can work out the cobwebs on some
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May 3, 2020 23:54
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Today was the first time I tried to do some more complicated freehand than basic geometric shapes or numbers. That came out great! The gloss really adds to it, too.
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May 3, 2020 23:56
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I've seen a few people take photos on a black acrylic sheet and I really like the look of it, but where can I buy one / what kind should I get? I looked on Amazon and there's like dozens of different textures and finishes varying wildly in price, so I thought I'd check in with the people that have set one up for mini photography.
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May 4, 2020 02:43
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:I've seen a few people take photos on a black acrylic sheet and I really like the look of it, but where can I buy one / what kind should I get? I looked on Amazon and there's like dozens of different textures and finishes varying wildly in price, so I thought I'd check in with the people that have set one up for mini photography. I got a sheet of clear acrylic plexi by accident and just decided to spray the back-side of it with primer. Works great. Did it half and half black/white so I could alternate depending on what colors/tones i was using.
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May 4, 2020 03:01
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As someone who's never painted anything I really chose the wrong army to want to play with Thousand Sons I just can't do these tiny details without it looking messy and awful, at least not yet. 
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May 4, 2020 05:26
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Best advice is probably to thin your paints and do multiple thin layers for coverage. If you're not already using a wet palette, I would highly recommend getting/making one. Don't try to thin your metal paints too much, as you've probably noticed they can be a bit tricky. For the fiddly details, move the minis around, rotate them, try to get the best angles on stuff. Even my old-man shaky hands can generally hit details pretty well, as long as I get the right angle. And if you're not already using painting handles, they're a must if you want to avoid getting your grubby mitts all over the minis. Take solace that lots of surface detail makes drybrushing more effective  And you've chosen an army with good clear bright colors and contrast, so they'll look striking on the table, even if the paintjob isn't absolutely perfect. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 07:27 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 07:25
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Strelok604 posted:As someone who's never painted anything I really chose the wrong army to want to play with Thousand Sons Fiddly trim is an absolute bastard, especially as a beginner, and a lot of your problems are just inexperience with brush control. I've certainly seen worse paint jobs. My suggestions would be: * Do another pass to cover up the bits where the undercoat is showing through (mainly where the arms join to the torsos) * Hit all the gold and yellow areas with a sepia wash. Don't worry if some of this goes onto the edges of the blue, and apply it to any areas that SHOULD be gold/yellow but might have blue on them at the moment. This will bring out the detail and pick out areas that need touching up. * Touch up the trim. Try to use the side of the brush tip rather than the pointy bit, move it over the raised area. Make sure the paint isn't too thinned for this, but don't worry if there's overspill onto the blue. * Touch up the blue. Start with your brush on a patch which is already blue, and gently push towards the edge of the trim
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May 4, 2020 07:38
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KozmoNaut posted:Best advice is probably to thin your paints and do multiple thin layers for coverage. If you're not already using a wet palette, I would highly recommend getting/making one. [b]Don't try to thin your metal paints too much[b], as you've probably noticed they can be a bit tricky. gently caress, I learned this the hard way this weekend - regular paints go on beautifully from my brand new wet palette but metals are a choooooore.
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May 4, 2020 08:31
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Vlex posted:gently caress, I learned this the hard way this weekend - regular paints go on beautifully from my brand new wet palette but metals are a choooooore. My "natural steel" Vallejo is mostly decent. It drybrushes well, and it's not too globby. Their standard gold on the other hand is an absolute pain to work with. It's thick and almost paste-like, and it likes to cake up and dry in a really weird way. It sort of rubs itself off in spots, like it doesn't really want to adhere to the surface. It falls apart completely if you try and thin it even a little bit with water. Their own thinner medium is eh sort of OK to use, I haven't tried their metallic medium. In comparison, the Citadel brazen brass I have from like the late 90s still has perfect consistency and flows well from the brush. It has great coverage and adheres beautifully. Metallic acrylic paint really is a crap shoot. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 09:19 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 08:45
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KozmoNaut posted:My "natural steel" Vallejo is mostly decent. It drybrushes well, and it's not too globby. I use Army Painter, and the golds are just too thin on the wet palette and impossible to dry brush with.
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May 4, 2020 09:33
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Vlex posted:I use Army Painter, and the golds are just too thin on the wet palette and impossible to dry brush with. I like the AP grey metals but yeah, not a fan of the golds
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May 4, 2020 09:37
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The pot of Retributor Armour I got with the first issue of Conquest magazine has convinced me to go with Citadel for metallics in future -- even though I much prefer the dropper bottles for everything else. Very happy with Warplock Bronze too; I haven't bought a silver/steel from Citadel yet.
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May 4, 2020 12:14
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Strelok604 posted:As someone who's never painted anything I really chose the wrong army to want to play with Thousand Sons Capillary action is your best friend. Your other best friend is a 00 brush. You'll want to thin your blue until its almost at the point of being a wash, like when you apply it you'll see a lot of gold still. At this point it will flow naturally into all the hard to get places. While its still wet and thin add a tiny bit of straight from the pot paint, the pigment will spread out. Hitting the blue areas with a wash (I use druchii violet) will also help with the edges. The same goes with the headdresses. If the blue over spills into the cracks dont worry, you can always go back with a mincron pen or a pin wash to neaten things out. I also highly suggest sub assemblies
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May 4, 2020 15:26
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Saturday I received the two Doom Scythes I ordered in the mail.  Had them mostly done by Saturday evening.  Finished them up (and the bases) by Sunday evening.  Which means I've completely painted all the Necron stuff I have for my army! Need to get one more doom scythe along with the 3 canopy covers a buddy of mine is creating for me. Group shot:   Just in time for my next project which should arrive this week: T'au.
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May 4, 2020 18:27
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I've never gone through with sub-assemblies; what's the trick to putting it all together after you're finished? making sure there's an unpainted contact patch? using super glue? or is it just that plastic glues still "weld" just fine on painted surfaces?
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May 4, 2020 18:27
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Arcteryx Anarchist posted:I've never gone through with sub-assemblies; what's the trick to putting it all together after you're finished? making sure there's an unpainted contact patch? using super glue? or is it just that plastic glues still "weld" just fine on painted surfaces? The trick is to think ahead of what needs to be assembled beforehand and what needs to be sub-assembled. A space marine, for instance, can usually have the torso, legs, and arms glued on without a problem--but you'd want to keep the gun separate in most cases, as the gun would block other portions and make it more difficult to paint what its covering. As for glue, it depends. For super glue, it will basically glue the layers of paint together rather than the plastic portions, so you'll either want to leave bare patches or gently scrape the paint off the contact points. Plastic glue doesn't have this problem, as it'll pretty much melt the pieces of plastic together regardless of paint.
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May 4, 2020 19:47
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Arcteryx Anarchist posted:I've never gone through with sub-assemblies; what's the trick to putting it all together after you're finished? In my experience, very carefully scraping the contact surfaces clear with your hobby knife. Superglue will adhere to the paint more than the paint likes the model underneath, and trying to leave a patch bare usually means I go too far and now have an unpainted armpit when i stick the limbs on. I don't like applying plastic glue directly to painted areas. It will melt the acrylic (plastic) paint, yes, but it usually doesn't get down to the styrene to form an actual bond. So, then the subassembly piece falls off and leaves cobwebs of melted paint on the model. Maybe Tamiya is magic and prevents this, but I'm not going to risk it again. Ceebees fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 19:50
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Going through my old paints to get started on some base for a world eater CSM after poking around for schemes -- they still seem to have life in them yet so far! just needed some TLC and maybe a few drops of extra water and some good hard mixing; even the metallics are mixing back up nicely  I guess we'll see how they turn out on this "sacrificial" model also yeah I really wish I had done some sub-assembly because now I remember that the guns on these guys do indeed get in the way  oh well some lost detail
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May 5, 2020 05:40
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Arcteryx Anarchist posted:I've never gone through with sub-assemblies; what's the trick to putting it all together after you're finished? making sure there's an unpainted contact patch? using super glue? or is it just that plastic glues still "weld" just fine on painted surfaces? I mask off contact points with tiny blobs of blu-tac or similar. Generally I'll attach arms and the like after the basecoat/wash stage, since any areas they block off don't really need highlighting anyway.
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May 5, 2020 09:20
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I find it too fiddly to mask off contact points, so I just scrape or file them when it comes to assembly time. heads i will just leave on the sprue to paint, which has the double benefit of giving me a handy painting handle and a clean contact point once i snip it off. Question time: what is the local equivalent in the UK/Ireland for Simple Green? What’s commonly available to strip models?
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May 5, 2020 09:47
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Dettol, or so I'm told?
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May 5, 2020 10:03
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https://www.simplegreen.co.uk/
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