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Pretty sure it's Dettol yeah. Yeah I just use superglue to stick the parts on the contact points onto a piece of sprue stuck in a champagne bottle cork for a grip. For heads I just tend to drill a small hole at the bottom with my smallest drill and stick that onto a clipped of paperclip. In some cases if I know the place is going to get covered up, like a marine arm, I just drill through the arm at the shoulder and stick it on a paperclip.
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May 5, 2020 10:25
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Vlex posted:Dettol, or so I'm told? Cooked Auto posted:Pretty sure it's Dettol yeah. In the current situation Dettol prices skyrocketed, so if you don't have a lot lying around, you are forced to move to other solutions 
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May 5, 2020 11:02
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If you're in the UK don't bother with anything but Biostrip. It's incredible. Plastic / metal only. It destroys resin.
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May 5, 2020 11:11
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jesus WEP posted:Question time: what is the local equivalent in the UK/Ireland for Simple Green? What’s commonly available to strip models? Vlex posted:Dettol, or so I'm told? Cooked Auto posted:Pretty sure it's Dettol yeah. Dont strip models with Dettol. Just dont do it. I have to admit that it does work! But very very very slowly. The last (or should I say first and only) time I tried to strip models with dettol I had to leave them soaking in it for literally days, and even then it didnt get everything off (and some of what it did get off turned into gluey lumps that went into the recesses of the model and were a right bastard to get out). And then the smell lingers for ages. Like seriously ages. Only advantage it has is that you probably have a bottle in the bathroom already. You can, as Yeast linked, now get Simple Green in the UK. But its 15 quid for a litre and (in these uncertain times, as every email I've had in the last 6 weeks starts) they are only posting once a week. I've never used it, I'm sure its great. Frankly at that price it had better be. I'll be honest, at that price I kind of feel it should take the paint off, clear mold lines and put the models back on the drat sprue. I do a decent amount of ebay rescues, and what I use to strip models is what our American friends would call "Denatured Alcohol", but we call "Methylated Spirits". It works quickly, the smell evaporates off quickly, its not particularly harmful on the skin (it will dry your skin out if you get a bunch on there and dont rinse it off), its easy to get and cheap as hell. My 500ml bottle was I think £1 from Wilko, any hardware store (and probably a lot of supermarkets) should carry it. I've used it on metal models and plastic, its never damaged anything. I cant guarantee what it'll do to the hosed up plastic they use for reaper bones, but its been fine for me on the hard plastic of GW figures and Malifaux stuff. Dump the figures in a jar (I like the doritos salsa jar, nice wide mouth and not too deep, makes it easy to get the figures out), cover with Meths, leave for a bit. Take a figure out, put it on a paper towel, scrub gently with a toothbrush. If there is still paint on, back in the jar for a bit. Do not, and this is important, get that toothbrush mixed up with the one you use for your teeth. That is now your paint scrubbing brush, store it with the Meths.
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May 5, 2020 11:25
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If you’re using Metho, you’ll find Simple Green to be laughably ineffective in comparison.
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May 5, 2020 11:32
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My go to paint stripper is pine soap. Even if its effectiveness can vary a bit, on recently painted things it takes like half a day to turn all of the paint to goop that goes off easily with a toothbrush. And then I've had stuff where it requires multiple soaks to get things off and even then it doesn't all come off. So it can be slightly hit and miss but I think that also depends on how much paint has been slathered onto the model as it was painted. On the plus side it doesn't damage the models and has a nice refreshing smell to it.
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May 5, 2020 11:46
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SiKboy posted:the hosed up plastic they use for reaper bones As far as I know it's injection molded PVC, so anything that is safe for PVC should be safe for Bones. I haven't got any Bones minis yet, but for metal and plastic (styrene) I use "brown soap", which is sometimes known as "green soap" instead. It's a soft soap usually made from soy oil or similar vegetable oils. Unlike fully saponified soaps, it has sodium hydroxide still in it and a pH of around 13-14. It'll loosen/dissolve just about any sort of paint, including some pretty stubborn stuff, giving enough time if you keep it from drying out.
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May 5, 2020 12:00
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KozmoNaut posted:As far as I know it's injection molded PVC, so anything that is safe for PVC should be safe for Bones. For clarity, I love the bones range, the price vs quality is just great value. I dont personally have as many of them as I'd like because my local games store only carries them sporadically, I buy a couple when I see them, then regret not buying more, then go back and they've sold through. But knowing that some Bones reacts really badly to some spray propellant (and I think there might be two generations of bones with slightly different plastics? I think someone told me that anyway) I'm just saying I'm not advising taking a reaper bones dragon and dumping it in meths without testing it first, simply because I've never stripped a reaper bones mini. Its probably fine, just like its probably fine on resin, but I'm not certain and I dont want someone ruining a model because I assumed it would be fine.
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May 5, 2020 12:33
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I'll chime in to say Wilko paint stripper has worked quite well for me in the past. It's more of a yogurt consistency which is weird but it's cheap, doesn't smell and won't destroy plastic. I found it easier and more pleasant to use than Dettol.
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May 5, 2020 12:36
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SiKboy posted:For clarity, I love the bones range, the price vs quality is just great value. I dont personally have as many of them as I'd like because my local games store only carries them sporadically, I buy a couple when I see them, then regret not buying more, then go back and they've sold through. But knowing that some Bones reacts really badly to some spray propellant (and I think there might be two generations of bones with slightly different plastics? I think someone told me that anyway) I'm just saying I'm not advising taking a reaper bones dragon and dumping it in meths without testing it first, simply because I've never stripped a reaper bones mini. Its probably fine, just like its probably fine on resin, but I'm not certain and I dont want someone ruining a model because I assumed it would be fine. There's the OG Bones, which is white PVC (as far as I know). It will probably stand up to ethanol/methylated spirits for a while, but prolonged exposure could cause some degradation. "Prolonged" being a very vague term, unfortunately. I know for sure that exposure to acetone is one of PVC's weak points. There's also Bones Black, their new material. It's more rigid and apparently holds fine detail better. I assume it's just a different formulation PVC, since they've published the same recommendations as for OG Bones, ie. primer is not needed, just paint an undiluted base layer first. I don't know it will react differently to various cleaning products for paint stripping. Always research thoroughly before dunking your favorite minis in anything to strip them, and ideally try a test model first 
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May 5, 2020 13:06
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Psyber Spine posted:I'll chime in to say Wilko paint stripper has worked quite well for me in the past. It's more of a yogurt consistency which is weird but it's cheap, doesn't smell and won't destroy plastic. I found it easier and more pleasant to use than Dettol. This is a great shout, thanks.
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May 5, 2020 16:41
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Hello friends, please click the link below and consider participating in my little charity event. We're all bored in lockdown right now so I thought we might be able to channel that into something a little more productive. I will be donating money to a food bank for every model completed in the next couple of months. All you have to do to participate is post pictures of your models though other options will be available for those who'd like to do more. It is somewhat focused on 28mm stuff, but there are other categories available and if your models aren't represented, just let me know and we can work something out. Full details in the thread, click the banner below to find out more: 
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May 5, 2020 18:09
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I picked up the Scale color flesh paint set to try and experiment with painting different skin tones and it seems like some of them just dont stick to the primer as well as other paints. When I use the lighter tones and try to do a 2nd coat Im finding sometimes its peeling off the first coat. Has anyone else run into this? Any tips on particular primers that work better? On these Im just using some rustoleum sandable primer but Im not having this issue with any other paints.
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May 5, 2020 20:13
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Grundma posted:I picked up the Scale color flesh paint set to try and experiment with painting different skin tones and it seems like some of them just dont stick to the primer as well as other paints. When I use the lighter tones and try to do a 2nd coat Im finding sometimes its peeling off the first coat. Has anyone else run into this? Any tips on particular primers that work better? On these Im just using some rustoleum sandable primer but Im not having this issue with any other paints. I've never had that problem.
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May 5, 2020 20:24
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Sorry to Kramer in here, but would any of you guys be willing to give me an opinion on this paint Kickstarter: Instant Colors paints? I've got a lot of miniatures and the explanations and cost/time investment for painting the tried-and-true way gives me pause. I've considered paying someone to paint them for me, but if this works as advertised it might be what a novice like me could go for. This project feels like a "too good to be true" sort of KS, so I'd love some opinions on its broad claims. Bloody Pancreas fucked around with this message at 21:54 on May 5, 2020 |
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May 5, 2020 21:52
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Bloody Pancreas posted:Sorry to Kramer in here, but would any of you guys be willing to give me an opinion on this paint Kickstarter: Instant Colors paints? I've got a lot of miniatures and the explanations and cost/time investment for painting the tried-and-true way gives me pause. Have you looked into the Citadel Contrast paints? Looks like this is a similar deal.
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May 5, 2020 21:56
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Winklebottom posted:Have you looked into the Citadel Contrast paints? Looks like this is a similar deal. I've heard most miniature paint products are dominated by Games Workshop and they hike the price of them to an awful degree. Is that not the case?
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May 5, 2020 21:58
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Electric Hobo posted:Did you shake them enough? Scale colors need a lot more shaking than you'd think. That could be it. I did shake it a bunch and the color looked consistent but since its with new bottles it could be it wasnt getting agitated enough.
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May 5, 2020 21:59
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Yeah, they look to function the same as GW's Contrast paints. A lot has been opined about Contrast paints, but they really do work wonders in getting a solid base color + shadow onto a model very quickly and efficiently. Whether the Instant Colors is worth it to you depends on how much of it you're getting and if you don't mind waiting till October for them to arrive.
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May 5, 2020 22:01
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Bloody Pancreas posted:I've heard most miniature paint products are dominated by Games Workshop and they hike the price of them to an awful degree. Is that not the case? GW paints are a bit pricier than most (here in Denmark their pots are a dollar more than their Vallejo/Army Painter equivalents), but are usually pretty solid. The advantage with the GW paints is that they have been out for a while, so they're easy to get (well, maybe not right now due to the pandemic). I haven't used contrast myself but it seems to work fine. It's not magic or anything but it lets you paint some solid models quickly.  source Here's an overview of the contrast paints: https://imgur.com/gallery/zgdrJbQ
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May 5, 2020 22:11
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Slimnoid posted:Whether the Instant Colors is worth it to you depends on how much of it you're getting and if you don't mind waiting till October for them to arrive. Do you find that you need a lot of similar colors to get the blends you want? I'd like to get the "16 basic colors set" that supposedly provides the widest range of color blends, but I'm not well-informed on making my own colors. If I need a large selection to properly get generally-desired colors I'll likely end up passing this up (and later greatly regretting it). Bloody Pancreas fucked around with this message at 22:15 on May 5, 2020 |
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May 5, 2020 22:12
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Iron Crowned posted:I have a question. Reaper Bones minis are like 2 bux a piece
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May 5, 2020 22:15
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Bloody Pancreas posted:This project feels like a "too good to be true" sort of KS, so I'd love some opinions on its broad claims. No, its legit. Scale 75 is a good company, they're going to produce a good product. Just depends on if you like the effect of heavy pigment washes, if you do - go for it. The one thing I'd say about Scale, is it can be tricky to get individual colours as they run out, depending on which country you're in. Spanish postage leaves a lot to be desired as well.
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May 5, 2020 22:16
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Yeast posted:Just depends on if you like the effect of heavy pigment washes, if you do - go for it. By pigment washes, do you mean the intensity of the colors or the thickness of the paint?
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May 5, 2020 22:21
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GW has a few vids on how to use Contrast, I'm fairly sure the thing about a light undercoat and so on will also be true for the Scale paints: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39lTbnyhzos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1K2NFrmQK4
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May 5, 2020 22:21
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Bloody Pancreas posted:Do you find that you need a lot of similar colors to get the blends you want? I'd like to get the "16 basic colors set" that supposedly provides the widest range of color blends, but I'm not well-informed on making my own colors. If I need a large selection to properly get generally-desired colors I'll likely end up passing this up (and later greatly regretting it). I only have a handful of Contrast paints--most of my paint repertoire is standard stuff and a mix of several different companies. But people have been able to get some really interesting effects out of Contrast, and 16 colors will probably get you pretty far. Pick up a non-Contrast black and white and you'd have all your basics covered, I'd think.
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May 5, 2020 22:24
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Bloody Pancreas posted:By pigment washes, do you mean the intensity of the colors or the thickness of the paint? The amount of pigment in the paints. They're sort of like washes, but with a ton more pigment and a different formulation of medium. So they cover more of the surface while still concentrating in the crevices like a wash, for shading. Look at the example pictures in the Kickstarter, you get color, shading and edge highlights in one step. As shown in the examples and videos, they're pretty rad for painting a bunch of minis to darn good tabletop standard very quickly. They do give the minis a particular style of paintjob, but if you like what you see in their pics and the videos, go for it! They're also good for painting over metallics to tint them various colors. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 22:38 on May 5, 2020 |
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May 5, 2020 22:31
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Winklebottom posted:GW has a few vids on how to use Contrast, I'm fairly sure the thing about a light undercoat and so on will also be true for the Scale paints: I almost think Duncan's contrast video shows off how to use the paints better than the GW ones. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJGqInWb2yo Or at least it covers a lot of other techniques that they don't bring up.
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May 5, 2020 22:47
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Thanks y'all, definitely appreciate the suggestions
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May 5, 2020 23:03
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yeah I feel like GW has always worked pretty hard to help people out with the hobby but they always seem to miss little important details for whatever reason
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May 5, 2020 23:03
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Bloody Pancreas posted:By pigment washes, do you mean the intensity of the colors or the thickness of the paint? It’s a catch all term for this style of paint, popularised by citadel and now followed by other manufacturers. Wash over white isn’t so much a product as a technique that painters had been employing selectively for years to do certain things, citadel turned it into a product range, and scale wants that money too. It’s a very very distinctive look, which, if you like it is great! and if you don’t, is terrible.
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May 5, 2020 23:05
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I used to play 40k back in like middle school but haven't done anything in years with the hobby. I bought some paints and a box of cadian guardsmen to pass the time in quarantine. I wish I had bought the army painter quickshade wash set and basic Vallejo game color set when I first started the hobby rather than getting the crappy citadel pots that dry up almost instantly (I'm looking at you citadel white paint) and cost like 2x as much for less paint.  Definitely a huge improvement over my old models just from using a wet pallette and properly thinned paints. These have no highlighting but they look drat decent for just an undercoat and wash shading.
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May 5, 2020 23:26
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Dr_0ctag0n posted:
Very cool! (now do another 50, there's a good lad).
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May 5, 2020 23:27
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so the Know no Fear box i splurged out on while a place was having a sale turned up, and I'm having to think of a paint scheme for the marines Right now my two top choices are:   Left one is likely easier for me, an idiot who is bad, to do, but i like both of them a lot
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May 6, 2020 03:07
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:so the Know no Fear box i splurged out on while a place was having a sale turned up, and I'm having to think of a paint scheme for the marines I like the black and green, it’s very dramatic
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May 6, 2020 05:44
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:so the Know no Fear box i splurged out on while a place was having a sale turned up, and I'm having to think of a paint scheme for the marines left side is a bit "small town sports team" for my tastes, I say go for the black and green. might change out the red lenses for something else though, depends on if you're going with a blue-black or a brown-black and how vibrant the green you're using is
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May 6, 2020 06:21
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God I'm gonna have to learn how to paint black armour aren't I....
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May 6, 2020 06:30
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idk that feels like not the worst? anything is better than flesh! does anyone else have work area lighting issues? I feel like either the light in my space just isn’t bright enough or there are too many shadows or something; I was going over some base coating I did tonight with some different lighting and there was a whole spot I missed on the lower inside leg because I couldn’t even see I missed it (dark primer doesn’t help matters)
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May 6, 2020 06:46
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I feel like I almost need one of those old folks lighted magnifying lamps
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May 6, 2020 06:53
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Arcteryx Anarchist posted:I feel like I almost need one of those old folks lighted magnifying lamps The more light you have, the better. The best is to have overhead lights, a lot of them (somebody posted a picture of their set-up a few pages back and made everyone jealous). Personally I can't do that because I paint on the side of my home office desk so I use a desk lamp (this one specifically) fitted with the brightest white bulb I could find and it works okay. For airbrushing I do this in my basement, which does have overhead lights, and yet I still miss some spots sometimes. And that's fine, that's why we like to use thin paints and apply multiple layers! For magnifying lamps I don't think this is reserved to old folks, if you're doing very fine details, or paint A LOT, it can help with eye fatigue I hear. But I also heard that it can screw up the depth perception (ie: your brush seems farther, or closer, of the model than it is) so it takes some practice. And I'm pretty sure some exist that don't have any magnifying effect and just the lightning. In the end, just use whatever works for you, nobody cares if you look like a 70 years old Swiss clockmaker.
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May 6, 2020 07:50
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