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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:If you guys haven't been watching the Warhammer TV twitch streams during the lockdown, you have been missing out on three professional GW Painters and one social media producer guy pumping out a ton of tips and tricks and also slowly going insane It's been very interesting. Wade is about ready to crack I think.
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# ? May 7, 2020 07:01 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 00:28 |
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Pakxos posted:
Hey that's awesome. Well, my suggestion if you're just starting out, and you've chosen Salamanders would be to watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrngFkqIxlw Its as close to a GW 'do it this way' as you'll get. Its a little more advanced than absolute starter, but its maybe something to work towards. Right now it sounds like you've got a good start with the basing in Waagh flesh and leadbelcher, if you'd like to take it a little bit further, I'd look into this PDF if you're sticking with games workshop paints: https://www.games-workshop.com/resources/PDF/Downloads/CitadelPaintingSystem.pdf I'll crack out a mini and put some paint on him tonight and take some photos
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# ? May 7, 2020 07:08 |
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Yeast posted:
Way cool! I'll check those out.
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# ? May 7, 2020 07:35 |
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Pakxos posted:Way cool! I'll check those out. Too easy. I just painted this up, I think this may be a more straightforward set of steps for someone new to mini painting. For everything but the last step, I used a size 2 brush, which in GW brushes, would be something like a medium shade. You'll be tempted to use a small brush, but it'll take a lot longer, and the paint will tend to dry in the bristles more easily. First step, undercoat black. If you're just starting out, a spray can black primer is a great thing to get. Now paint anything that's going to be green with Waaagh flesh. You might have heard the term 'thin your paints' or 'two thin coats' and that applies here too. If you can still see black primer through the paint, that's ok, let it dry, then go over it again. Then grab 'warpstone glow' and do the same thing. This gives us the classic Salamander green. I then applied a wash of Biel-tan green. This naturally runs into the cracks and deeper areas of the model, so it gives us more dimensionality. Be careful to not slap it on too thick (sensing a theme here?) or it will leave whats often called 'tide marks' or 'coffee staining' to avoid this, keep an eye on it as it begins to dry, and if some wash settles on an area of flat colour, use your brush to push it away or suck it up with the bristles. --- At this point, you can totally stop for now --- You've got some good looking armour, and you can always come back for the last step once you feel comfortable. Using a brush that's a little smaller, and the colour 'moot green' trace around the edges of the armour, trying to paint lines as thin as you can manage. I find using a brush that's a little bit damper than normal really helps the the paint move across the surface more easily, and isn't as 'chalky' sometimes this technique is called 'edge highlighting' and while it might at first seem tricky, its actually really easy once you've tried. And that's it! The beginners guide to painting salamander armour. There's lots of different ways to do it, but I like this because you don't have to highlight it at first, and still have a good looking mini to play games with. If you've got any other questions, ask away Yeast fucked around with this message at 09:11 on May 7, 2020 |
# ? May 7, 2020 09:08 |
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yeah salamanders also appear to be interesting since they are an example of a slightly different paint process than the “standard” one so much meta to learn!
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# ? May 7, 2020 13:39 |
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That is pretty much the same painting process I've done for my Salamanders. The only difference is that I don't have biel-tan green and instead went with nuln oil in all the recesses. Or in one case, Black Templar contrast. Also I wish the GW Painting App would actually update on a regular basis as they seemingly promised in the first place.
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# ? May 7, 2020 13:50 |
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Hello thread, I've just started painting and bloody love it, and now want to expand out from the 5 bases I already have to have a slightly fuller range so I have a question about building up a stock of key colours that will come in useful regardless of project along with key washes. My thinking is black, white, primary and secondary colours, metal, gold, and silver. Here is my list so far, please would you guys give it a once over? with the shops shut down I can't walk into one and work it out myself. I am trying to have the most generic of the colours before I branch out into lighter/darker versions of each one. Thanks base black - Abaddon Black white - Corax White grey - Grey Seer red - Mephiston Red yellow - Averland Sunset blue - Macragge Blue orange - Jokaero Orange purple - Phoenician Purple green - Caliban Green weapon grey - Leadbelcher silver - Grey Knights Steel gold - Retributor Armour wash Nuln Oil Reikland Fleshshade Agrax Earthshade Thanks
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# ? May 7, 2020 13:56 |
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notaspy posted:Hello thread, Trying to be project agnostic, I'd say you are missing at least one brown (so many things are different shades of brown I'd recommend you get at least 2. A darkish wood brown and a leather brown at least), and at least one skin tone base colour. And an ivory or bone colour is always useful too. Seraphim Sepia is a surprisingly versatile wash I'd also consider. More things on models are shades of brown than are purple (unless of course you are painting something thats main colour is purple... This is why its difficult to be project agnostic! If you are planning on painting a bunch of tyranids then the browns are less important than organic shades of purple and pink... But in general a brown that can be a wooden handle or sheild will be used on more minis than a purple will.)
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# ? May 7, 2020 14:37 |
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SiKboy posted:Trying to be project agnostic, I'd say you are missing at least one brown (so many things are different shades of brown I'd recommend you get at least 2. A darkish wood brown and a leather brown at least), and at least one skin tone base colour. And an ivory or bone colour is always useful too. Seraphim Sepia is a surprisingly versatile wash I'd also consider. More things on models are shades of brown than are purple (unless of course you are painting something thats main colour is purple... This is why its difficult to be project agnostic! If you are planning on painting a bunch of tyranids then the browns are less important than organic shades of purple and pink... But in general a brown that can be a wooden handle or sheild will be used on more minis than a purple will.) Yeah, something like Dryad Bark or Rhinox Hide as a dark brown base would be good, they're really versatile.
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# ? May 7, 2020 14:49 |
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Agreed, you want at least a leather brown and a wood brown base. I know that's something I should pick up a pot of Mournfang Brown or Dryad Bark to compliment my pot of Rhinox hide at some point. One thing that you could probably do is pick up the essentials kit: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-SE/Warhammer-40000-Essentials-Set-2018-eng And then compliment those colours with something extra.
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# ? May 7, 2020 14:56 |
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Yeast posted:
That was impressive! Cooked Auto posted:That is pretty much the same painting process I've done for my Salamanders. What really blows my mind is the clean color placement on the details. It seems to be something that comes with practice but brush control is going to be the hardest thing for me once I get the colors straightened out. One thing about the PDF - it looks like Step 3 is another layer. So if I was using the guide, that gives me the color, so on the first row Base in grey, Shade with Nuln Oil, layer with Ulthuan Grey, layer over the grey with White Scar. And then, if it was a model, edge highlight with, I don't know, Dawnstone maybe?
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# ? May 7, 2020 15:02 |
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wicked, ty goons
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# ? May 7, 2020 15:03 |
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Pakxos posted:What really blows my mind is the clean color placement on the details. It seems to be something that comes with practice but brush control is going to be the hardest thing for me once I get the colors straightened out. A lot of practise combined with a lot of back and forth with paints. In many cases a fine pointed brush will help you clean up all the details.
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# ? May 7, 2020 15:30 |
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notaspy posted:Hello thread, I would get a sandy yellow/tan, an off white/ivory, and an ochre. I have no experience with citadel paints but looking at that chart on dakka I'd say ushabti bone, screaming skull, and tau light ochre would work. Those aren't necessary but they're definitely some of my most used colors, up there with white, black, and the primaries.
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# ? May 7, 2020 16:00 |
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averland sunset is on the orange side of yellow, and is therefore not terribly good at e.g. mixing into a green paint to get a nice light green highlight. not saying you NEED to go out and buy a cooler greener yellow just for that purpose, but it’s something to be aware of
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# ? May 7, 2020 16:27 |
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maybe gw should have kept selling that huge box of everything; but then again that probably only marketed well towards people like me that wanted to paint a bit of everything instead of a lot of a few things
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# ? May 7, 2020 16:30 |
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Highlighting red can die-die, but I'm really pleased with it.
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# ? May 7, 2020 16:44 |
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Finished up the Farstriders 8 warbands down, 19 to go
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# ? May 7, 2020 17:38 |
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notaspy posted:Hello thread, Agreed with what everyone else has said, but I just want to say I also use Zandri Dust a LOT as a base for khaki colors (which I end up using way more than you might think), so I’d recommend it.
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# ? May 7, 2020 18:43 |
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Echoing the recommendation for at least a couple of browns. There's always more leather, wood, dirt and endless shades of each that using the same brown for all of them ends up looking dull.
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# ? May 7, 2020 18:59 |
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How do you guys get a "painted on look." For example, doing woad or face/body paint as to look painted on. Or, like painted letters on the side of a tank or wall
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# ? May 7, 2020 19:01 |
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whenever I was painting flags/standards I always had trouble not giving them a painted on look
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# ? May 7, 2020 19:04 |
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Phi230 posted:How do you guys get a "painted on look." For tattoos and body paint, mixing a tiny bit of flesh tone in makes it look good.
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# ? May 7, 2020 19:08 |
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I first paint the "paint" with a 1:1 mix with the background color, let it dry, then mostly go over it again with the paint color. It also helps if you weather it severely.
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# ? May 7, 2020 21:23 |
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moths posted:I first paint the "paint" with a 1:1 mix with the background color, let it dry, then mostly go over it again with the paint color. Yeah, I hadn't done it myself yet, but I was thinking weathering or stippling on some of the under color would show where the "paint" is chipping.
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# ? May 7, 2020 21:38 |
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Working on a super simple Master of Possession. What are people’s opinions on a good contrasting color for the feathers on the cloak?
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# ? May 7, 2020 22:05 |
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Some WIP of my Big Boi. Currently doing the spikey bits in Balor Brown before highlighting them. This thing has a bazillion of those. Also the Drum Guy after some recommendations from this thread!
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# ? May 7, 2020 22:08 |
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Pew pew
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# ? May 7, 2020 23:11 |
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Ah, day off, time to build a couple models from my Know no Fear box that showed up! Oh right, they're not push fit, and my glue is dead.
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# ? May 7, 2020 23:16 |
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TotalHell posted:Pew pew I like him! What is he?
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# ? May 7, 2020 23:41 |
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SiKboy posted:I like him! What is he? He’s a warcaster from Warmachine! Captain Allister Caine, specifically.
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# ? May 7, 2020 23:51 |
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TotalHell posted:He’s a warcaster from Warmachine! Captain Allister Caine, specifically. Ah, I have a couple of friends who are really into that, but I would only recognise the... warjacks? The purple works well with the blue coat, and the highlighting on the face is nice too.
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# ? May 7, 2020 23:57 |
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Thread please hit me up with instagram accounts you like to follow for painting. My current focus is GW minis more 40K than fantasy. Looking for tips and inspiration basically.
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# ? May 7, 2020 23:58 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Thread please hit me up with instagram accounts you like to follow for painting. My current focus is GW minis more 40K than fantasy. Looking for tips and inspiration basically. I just jump into the search and hit up #paintingwarhammer
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# ? May 8, 2020 01:34 |
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Finally got some gold on my angry red dude I think I need to add some to those lower exhaust ports though too :think: and then its time to get to more layers and highlights!
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# ? May 8, 2020 02:10 |
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Winklebottom posted:Finished up the Farstriders Hey I love these, thank you.
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# ? May 8, 2020 05:45 |
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PierreTheMime posted:Working on a super simple Master of Possession. What are people’s opinions on a good contrasting color for the feathers on the cloak? Maybe something teal or light blue-ish? Brock Samsonite posted:Hey I love these, thank you. Thanks!
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# ? May 8, 2020 07:08 |
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I'm just getting back into painting again and literally all my poo poo is dead after so long in storage. Is there a decent starter Vallejo model color set out there? I've had a brief look and they're all tied to various ww2 camo patterns etc whereas i'm after a more comprehensive range.
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# ? May 8, 2020 08:24 |
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serious gaylord posted:I'm just getting back into painting again and literally all my poo poo is dead after so long in storage. Is there a decent starter Vallejo model color set out there? I've had a brief look and they're all tied to various ww2 camo patterns etc whereas i'm after a more comprehensive range. The Game Color range is designed for warhams and sci-fi/fantasy gaming in general. There's this big bad boy: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/cases/game-color-72172/ And some smaller sets, the first one is basically all the colors this thread recommends for a basic set: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/basic-en/introduction-72299/ https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/basic-en/advanced-72298/ And some extra heavy colors for base coats. I have these, and they really are super opaque, one coat is all you need: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/basic-en/advanced-72298/ Don't get their model color washes, they don't work like GW washes or Army Painter quickshades at all. I don't know about their game inks, though: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/basic-en/game-inks-72296/ If you specifically want model color, which is slightly more matte and less punchy, they do make a decent generic set of those, too: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/basic-en/basic-colors-usa-70140/ If it doesn't specifically have to be from Vallejo, Army Painter also has some sets. https://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=16 KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 09:57 on May 8, 2020 |
# ? May 8, 2020 09:50 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 00:28 |
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KozmoNaut posted:If it doesn't specifically have to be from Vallejo, Army Painter also has some sets. I bought a Army Painter set and sorta regret it. Their quickshade range is fantastic and I like their grey metals, but their regular paints vary a lot in quality (at least mine did). Many of them are gluey and are difficult to get to flow right, especially their greens and blues.
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# ? May 8, 2020 11:39 |