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Around every 6 months my clutch switch gets dirty and the bike won't start unless I hit the switch housing a bit. I can't even find the part on Bike Bandit, supposedly you have to buy part of the harness or something like that and it's way too expensive, but I can open it up and spray contact cleaner in there while manually depressing the switch in 5 minutes, then it works fine for another 6 months. I like the idea of just replacing it, but this is so easy I'll probably just do it forever.
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May 12, 2020 21:00
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| # ? May 29, 2024 21:35 |
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I had been experiencing occasional hesitation near the top of the rev range on my 1994 Kawasaki 250 Ninja. I finally got around to pulling the carbs off to check the diaphragms to make sure they didn't have any tears. They looked fine:  The spark plugs did look like they had a bit of oil on them but didn't look scorched.   I sprayed down the carbs with some cleaner, got it all back together, everything started and ran fine. I'll get it out for a test ride when it's out of the 40s. If it still does it then I guess I'm looking at a more extensive servicing of the carbs. I'm not sure if that has ever been done, so I'm sure it's due anyway.
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May 12, 2020 21:25
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Slavvy posted:time to wipe Now I'm rereading this post in RCR's voice
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May 12, 2020 21:37
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Today I, I took the cover off the bike and:: 1. Put the bike on the battery tender for a bit. 2. Put some benzene based fuel stabliser in the petrol tank. 3. Put the cover back on the bike, tutting at how absolutely covered with bird poop the cover is (the bike is parked under and chained to a tree).
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May 12, 2020 21:43
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MomJeans420 posted:Around every 6 months my clutch switch gets dirty and the bike won't start unless I hit the switch housing a bit. I can't even find the part on Bike Bandit, supposedly you have to buy part of the harness or something like that and it's way too expensive, but I can open it up and spray contact cleaner in there while manually depressing the switch in 5 minutes, then it works fine for another 6 months. I like the idea of just replacing it, but this is so easy I'll probably just do it forever. Daytona right? Just bypass it, if not I am 90% certain it's a generic Japanese style switch you can get for twenty bucks. nadmonk posted:I had been experiencing occasional hesitation near the top of the rev range on my 1994 Kawasaki 250 Ninja. Key thing here: carbs are dependant on throttle position far more than rpm, so you tune and diagnose by that. The diaphragms and needles are only used at partial throttle and problems with those usually manifest when you're trying to ride at a sedate pace; if you're getting hesitation at very high revs you're presumably using full throttle or close to it. WOT is only affected by the main jets, the emulsion tubes and the fuel and air supplies. So clean the main jets and emulsion tubes, make sure the float levels are perfect and working perfectly, clean your petcock mesh, make sure your air filter is mint, synchronise the carbs. The black stuff on the plugs is fuel, not oil (oil on plugs looks white and fuzzy) and probably just indicates the last time you ran the bike it was on the choke or wasn't warmed up fully. The plugs will tell you what the engine was doing in the last 30 seconds of runtime and not much else, however the electrodes look pretty badly worn* so get some new ones. *:hard to tell, might just be the picture.
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May 12, 2020 21:44
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Slavvy posted:
Thank you, excellent advice. I'm probably the fourth owner of the bike and who knows when last any of this was done. I'm sure it's all long over due. After I posted I did notice some sediment in the fuel filter. I'll definitely check all of that out.
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May 13, 2020 01:35
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nadmonk posted:I had been experiencing occasional hesitation near the top of the rev range on my 1994 Kawasaki 250 Ninja. Buy new plugs and google "plug chop."  Also check those diaphragms for pinhole leaks. even the tiniest leak can gently caress you and since they're apart anyways... Also make sure the bores of the carb and slides are clean enough to eat off of. After using carb cleaner I like to wipe the bores out with 0000 steel wool and clean off the slides with it as well. Be very gentile, you're not trying to take the texture off anything. Use carb cleaner again after you hit it with the steel wool. You don't want any of that stuck in any air passages or getting into your engine.
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May 13, 2020 02:25
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Bought a replacement motor for the Hawk since the current motor has unknown miles, a track history, and some major red flags.  The donor bike showed 2k miles on the odometer, so I popped the valve cover off to take a look:  I'd say that confirms the mileage.
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May 13, 2020 13:32
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May 13, 2020 13:47
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Buy new plugs and google "plug chop." The bores and slides are nice and clean (they weren't bad even before the carb cleaner). I do have rebuild kit, new plugs, and a new fuel filter on the way. There is definitely sediment in mine: 
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May 13, 2020 14:09
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 Things that were not shiny are now slightly more so
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May 13, 2020 15:11
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Not technically my bike, but with self isolation, I've had lots of time to work on my friend's SV650. This is all over the course of the past several months of it sitting in my garage, but still: -Replaced the flasher relay, so the LEDs aren't going at warp speed. -Replaced the lovely, smoked, flush mount indicators on the front with ones that are actually visible. -Fixed the tach needle (it was resting at ~3500 RPM). -Put on new tires. -Replaced the lost side panels (black plastic under the seat). -Replaced the battery. -Replaced the rear pads. -Bled the rear brake for, what seemed like, forever, until it was actually useful. -Installed a 8" Delkevic oval slip-on.* -Changed the oil and filter, which I should do again soon. *The stock exhaust had holes drilled all around the muffler, giving it an annoying whistle noise. 
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May 13, 2020 20:57
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Gorson posted:Bought a replacement motor for the Hawk since the current motor has unknown miles, a track history, and some major red flags. Holy god what a find.
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May 14, 2020 03:55
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Gorson posted:Bought a replacement motor for the Hawk since the current motor has unknown miles, a track history, and some major red flags. Did Hord just pull this out of his pile of spares in a barn somewhere, or did you get lucky on eBay?
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May 14, 2020 04:14
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Gorson posted:Bought a replacement motor for the Hawk since the current motor has unknown miles, a track history, and some major red flags. I've never been able to find a clear description of how the Hawk/Revere/Africa Twin/Transalp/PC800 engines are/aren't related which is a shame, Honda sure had a lot of v twins in production.
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May 14, 2020 10:40
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Jazzzzz posted:Did Hord just pull this out of his pile of spares in a barn somewhere, or did you get lucky on eBay? It's from a guy on the Hawk forums who was nice enough to ship it over. The parts bike was in Detroit and I was going to go pick it up but he got to it first. It was $400 shipped which is a really good price, but Hawk motors aren't worth a whole lot. You can get them for $700ish shipped on ebay....but not one with this low miles. It does have some paint bubbling and the bike obviously wasn't stored very well. The rest of the bike was very rough. I also bought the gauges so I would have the odometer with the motor. High Protein posted:I've never been able to find a clear description of how the Hawk/Revere/Africa Twin/Transalp/PC800 engines are/aren't related which is a shame, Honda sure had a lot of v twins in production. Me neither but the Hawk and AT motors are almost exactly the same in every regard including appearance. There are several AT-powered Hawks out there, the motor fits right into the frame.
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May 14, 2020 13:21
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The transalp alone had 3 main versions, 600cc 88-99, 650cc 00-07 and 700cc 08-12. Some rare 400cc ones in south america + japan too.
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May 14, 2020 14:15
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Horse Clocks posted:If that works, maybe I’ll find a 2nd hand carb. I would definitely go with the MX off the CRF as opposed to the more expensive slant body FCR from the E model DRZ. Depending on the year of the slant body it has a lovely accelerator pump linkage and other not desirable stuff. I know for certain the FCRMX series airbox and engine side OD's for the fixed intake bell OEM carbs are the same. Pretty sure the slant body carbs are as well, so you should be able to just use the boots from an E model DRZ. This guy also makes cool FCR swap poo poo if you'd like to give him a call: http://nossmachine.com/
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May 14, 2020 16:12
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Installed the Akrapovic I bought in a fit of bike boredom back in January. Installation went really well, except there was no real good way to get the torque wrench onto the bolt that actually holds the can to the body, so I added some loctite to the bolt and took a spitball guess at 16 ft lbs. Bought a surplus of exhaust gaskets just be sure, and I’m glad I didn’t reuse what I had, even if the bike is virtually brand new. Sound is really neat, but tbh this is a pointless upgrade for me and if I hadn’t been flush with cash after my bonus and bored with no bike stuff to do in the dead of winter I probably would still have stock exhaust on right now.
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May 16, 2020 17:36
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don't make excuses, just embrace the beauty of a good exhaust
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May 16, 2020 17:43
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I have upgraded from lawnmower to expensive-sounding lawnmower  E: I double and triple-checked everything I could think of on the bike before deciding I was finished, and not until I was ready to put down the kickstand and take it off he rear stand did I realize I hadn’t put the shift lever back on. Which is funny since I literally went through the installation doc on the exhaust and still somehow forgot I had removed the shift lever to access a bolt. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 19:08 on May 16, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 18:06
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The past time I went riding I stalled my bike and it was difficult to start. My e start stopped working so I had to kick. I felt like I lost compression as well which seemed weird. I checked my starter, solenoid, relay, and replaced the battery. I removed the spark plug and kicked it over a few times to clear anything in case it were flooded. I replaced the plug because it looked like this.  Also checked my valve clearances and realize I'll need to order shims and adjust. It was a long night and I got it started but didn't run it long due to the late time and noise etc.
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May 16, 2020 18:19
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Got rid of the secondary air system on the 690 in preparation for flashing it with TuneEcu. Also need to set the intake valves back to the loose end of the spec. This is a 2013 so it has the older rocker arm bearing design, but the bike only has 7k miles on it. Is it worth throwing in a set of the new rocker arms with this valve adjustment? I have no frame of reference for how big of an issue the old rocker arm bearing design is/was.
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May 17, 2020 03:40
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Yerok posted:Got rid of the secondary air system on the 690 in preparation for flashing it with TuneEcu. Also need to set the intake valves back to the loose end of the spec. Just do it now so you don't have to do it later. The fastest I've seen one die was around 18,000km, almost entirely daily commute riding, so it's probably got a little while to go if you want to stretch it out. Also the 'new' design is only marginally better in longevity as far as I can tell, the biggest difference is the needles are trapped inside the roller so they can't colonise the engine when they fail.
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May 17, 2020 04:13
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Parts ordered. I will blast around on my XR on which I have no idea what the valve clearances are while I wait for them and my 10mm shim kit to show up.
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May 17, 2020 04:24
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Kid’s dirt bike got a new front tire  My dirt bike went from 0 to 53hp real quick   I sold my Buell last weekend and got this 450 SX yesterday. We have a state-run trail system about 35 minutes away and I’m hoping to get some time in the woods with the boy this year, if my work schedule allows. The KTM is way too much for our small backyard track.
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May 17, 2020 11:17
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Kid’s dirt bike got a new front tire Are you going to put a heavier flywheel on it?
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May 17, 2020 14:34
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builds character posted:Are you going to put a heavier flywheel on it? I hadn’t thought about it but maybe in the future. I want to see how it goes the first few times out. I did order a Trail Tech kickstand though, because I can see myself needing to start it on the trail and finding a tree to lean it on every time will be a pain in the rear end.
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May 17, 2020 14:58
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I hadn’t thought about it but maybe in the future. I want to see how it goes the first few times out. I did order a Trail Tech kickstand though, because I can see myself needing to start it on the trail and finding a tree to lean it on every time will be a pain in the rear end. fwiw, I think it’s one of the things folks do for SX bikes they’re taking on trails so they don’t flame out as easily. Kickstand should be nice too!
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May 18, 2020 14:49
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More like what did my ride do to itself today: apparently it decided it didn't sound cool enough, because at some point on my commute this morning the right side baffle shot out of the silencer  Only noticed when I got to work and flipped my helmet up to park, and thought the exhaust note sounded lumpier than usual. e/ or if not the baffle, whatever this thing was (left/right):   Any advice on how to get the other one out appreciated (because as much as I like having a quiet bike, gently caress trying to repair this thing when I'm contemplating getting a full stainless system next year) Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 13:32 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 08:56
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Slide hammer?
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May 19, 2020 16:12
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Drill holes all the way around until it's basically perforated, then smash it out with a slide hammer, then grind down the ugly lip that's left over. Then turn your pilot screws a quarter out.
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May 19, 2020 23:42
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Got my TuneECU cable and backed up the stock maps for the 690. Where the gently caress on the internet is the folder of EVO and Akra maps? All I see is broken links and ancient screenshots. e: found it. all the ktm tunes are gone from tuneecu.net. rip. Yerok fucked around with this message at 01:46 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 01:32
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Yerok posted:Got my TuneECU cable and backed up the stock maps for the 690. Where the gently caress on the internet is the folder of EVO and Akra maps? All I see is broken links and ancient screenshots. I found this linked somewhere on that site: https://app.box.com/s/pusg6v7nyd/folder/56733858 Is that what you're looking for?
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May 20, 2020 02:20
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I guess "all ktm tunes" is a little inaccurate, but I looked through that earlier and the Evo 1, 2, and Akra tunes are all missing from that folder. e: I am a big dummy. If anyone needs this, here you go: https://web.archive.org/web/20180714134714/http://tuneecu.com/KTM_Tune_list.html Yerok fucked around with this message at 04:49 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 04:18
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Slavvy posted:Drill holes all the way around until it's basically perforated, then smash it out with a slide hammer, then grind down the ugly lip that's left over. It's efi, is this still a thing?
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May 20, 2020 07:14
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's efi, is this still a thing? No, your bike will just run lean
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May 20, 2020 19:50
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EFI pilot screws are called "Buying a Powercommander" unfortunately. Sometimes this can be cheesed with TPS fuckery but thats not possible on every bike
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May 20, 2020 20:24
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:EFI pilot screws are called "Buying a Powercommander" unfortunately. Sometimes this can be cheesed with TPS fuckery but thats not possible on every bike otoh power commanders are really nice and easy to use. the hardest part is getting a source for good maps (or lol, trying to make your own)
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May 20, 2020 20:51
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| # ? May 29, 2024 21:35 |
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Yerok posted:I have no frame of reference for how big of an issue the old rocker arm bearing design is/was. https://i.imgur.com/xQIW619.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6B1c1nM.jpg
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May 20, 2020 20:52
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