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Unlucky7 posted:What must it be like to be one of the guys who designs the inner frames for MGs and up? To lovingly make these details and engineering wonders, and then hand it off to the next guy who will cover it all up with armor? A decent number of MG builders leave the armor off some or all of the finished model just to show off the frame.
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May 14, 2020 20:55
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The barbatos shows off a ton of it's inner frame even with the armor on, I'm not surprised that that they went all out in adding detail to it.
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May 14, 2020 21:08
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Monaghan posted:The barbatos shows off a ton of it's inner frame even with the armor on, I'm not surprised that that they went all out in adding detail to it. Its a super super great kit. They need to adapt a lot of their joint principles from this one to future designs.
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May 14, 2020 22:01
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I just found out Max Factory made a miniatures game last year called Dragon Gyas with absolutely fantastic miniatures but it's almost impossible to find information about it or how to buy it. Look at the guy on the Chocobo, how cool is that? 
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May 14, 2020 22:08
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ActionZero posted:Some Haros are bad Haros. Nah, Haros are like dogs. Even bad Haros are good Haros. Gripweed posted:most Haros are assholes ..good boy.
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May 14, 2020 22:40
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Gripweed posted:I just found out Max Factory made a miniatures game last year called Dragon Gyas with absolutely fantastic miniatures but it's almost impossible to find information about it or how to buy it. I don't think it's out yet, they're just putting the Japanese version on kickstarter this week. edit: https://twitter.com/DragonGyas/status/1259820263669039105 long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 23:30 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 23:28
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Ah, thanks. drat I'm going all in on that Kickstarter when it opens
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May 14, 2020 23:32
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So I'm about to retry airbrushing. I've been building the MG Nu Gundam and metal detail parts. I figure why not try airbrushing it. I have no ideas what paints to get. Will probably order off of Newtype since they have great shipping. I already have an airbrush booth, airbrush, compressor, all that. What paints (i.e. colors) should I order to get as close to the "correct" colors? My limitations are acrylic (nothing with significant fumes as my work area is shared with my living room, is pretty small, and my pets and partner are about 10 feet away from me). I'm thinking of going with Vallejo Model Air.
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May 15, 2020 01:36
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If your going Vallejo, go for the Mecha line. They're a touch stronger than model air, primers are pretty good as well. Remember to keep the airbrush tip clean as you go and you should be golden.
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May 15, 2020 02:51
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Do your panel lining folks ! A fine-point sharpie will do just fine. These needs some cleanup still. A q-tip with rubbing alcohol on it will remove the surface marks nicely, and will leave most of the ink down in the actual panel line.
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May 15, 2020 03:52
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unpurposed posted:So I'm about to retry airbrushing. I've been building the MG Nu Gundam and metal detail parts. I figure why not try airbrushing it. If you’re looking to go color accurate http://www.mech9.com/ has color guides from the instructions translated for most kits and has brands that can be subbed for various paint brands.
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May 15, 2020 10:35
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Metrofreak posted:
Okay but can it properly Slav squat? Because heels in sky, is Western spy; heels on ground, comrade found unpurposed posted:So I'm about to retry airbrushing. I've been building the MG Nu Gundam and metal detail parts. I figure why not try airbrushing it. Model Air has tended to work better for me right out of the bottle. Mecha Color has wanted like a 10:1:1 ratio of paint:Vallejo airbrush thinner:Vallejo airbrush flow improver. I just make a 1:1 mix of the latter in a separate dropper bottle to add as needed. You could use the same ratio for Model Air if you wanna get a little better flow. But yeah, if you're going to start out on a line of paints, Model Air is the way to go. I started out with Model Color with the logic that there are more colors and I could just thin as needed, but it's been a bit of futzing since it's never just a fixed ratio of paint:thinners. Model Air has worked fine straight up. If you want to do bare metal paints, the Vallejo Metal Color line is the best acrylic bare-metal paint out there, period.
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May 15, 2020 14:54
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Does anyone has suggestions for decent LED kits?
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May 15, 2020 19:14
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Veotax posted:Since Bandai's official LEDs are loving terrible, I had given up on lighting my kits. However I ordered some magnetic lights from GundamLED with the money I was saving to spend on holiday before the world went to poo poo, two months later they showed up today.
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May 15, 2020 20:27
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:If you’re looking to go color accurate http://www.mech9.com/ has color guides from the instructions translated for most kits and has brands that can be subbed for various paint brands. Oh wow, that's a useful site. It feels like I'm going to have some big paint purchases in the future... Also, what do people recommend for an airbrush? Initially I only planned on buying a few kits so I didn't want to buy one, but my backlog keeps getting bigger. And bigger. And bigger.
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May 15, 2020 20:58
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BadMedic posted:Oh wow, that's a useful site. It feels like I'm going to have some big paint purchases in the future... I wrote an article about beginner airbrush setups, all of it should apply to gunpla as well: https://www.goonhammer.com/the-fabricator-general-getting-started-with-aibrushing-the-basic-set-up-and-equipment/
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May 15, 2020 21:16
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Thanks yall for the painting tips!  I also can vouch for the Gundam LED site. I bought some a couple years ago and finally (like last week) got around to using them. Work perfectly.
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May 15, 2020 22:16
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Veotax posted:Since Bandai's official LEDs are loving terrible, I had given up on lighting my kits. However I ordered some magnetic lights from GundamLED with the money I was saving to spend on holiday before the world went to poo poo, two months later they showed up today. Okay forget the LEDs, I wanna know how you got that sticker in Dynames' chest lined up perfectly, because I just could not. I even tried wetting the surface of the part, but clear plastic sticker + clear plastic part = static for days. I swear to god, this stupid sticker leapt off my tweezers and onto the part.  Hrnggggh it's so close but not.. Back to lighting, I just ordered some LEDs from Newtype so hopefully those will arrive in a couple days. I just got the basic Bandai lights, but does anyone have advice for jamming a light in his head? I actually painted the eyes on this one (and it actually turned out good!) and the metallic green I used is semi-translucent so it would be dope if I could get some lights in there. I have some tiny micro LEDs I could probably fit in there but I've never tried using them for.. anything really.   I also tried painting the v-fin gold and I think it came out alright. Looks better in person, though. Camera flash picked up all the imperfections, of course. I think that shade of gold looks really good with Dynames' dark green color scheme, but now I'm thinking I should paint the rest of the yellow bits gold..  E: okay actually it looks like the sticker placement is fine; the loving clear parts in his chest just don't line up correctly. What the gently caress. Well, hopefully it'll be less noticeable with a green LED in there instead of me trying to jam an LED flashlight in his back.. Bees on Wheat fucked around with this message at 23:05 on May 15, 2020 |
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May 15, 2020 22:38
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Building the Yamato final battle version and i want to kill the person that decided that all the largest of the turrets needed to be a three piece part instead of a single mould. And I use the word largest sparingly as the largest turrets are at most 3mm across and you somehow have to fit two pieces into the dome of the turret and gently caress you if you loose one piece cause we didn't supply extras.  Also this loving piece, try and get this in a locator hole that's space is too small for fingers and pushing in with tweezers will bend the cannons almost immediately.
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May 16, 2020 07:06
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Puddin posted:Building the Yamato final battle version and i want to kill the person that decided that all the largest of the turrets needed to be a three piece part instead of a single mould. Yeah those little turrets were bar none the worst part of the Yamato kits. I ended up pushing with a cotton swab.
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May 16, 2020 07:13
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Puddin posted:Building the Yamato final battle version and i want to kill the person that decided that all the largest of the turrets needed to be a three piece part instead of a single mould. Which kit, and e. oh there it is
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May 16, 2020 08:08
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That Gobbo posted:I wrote an article about beginner airbrush setups, all of it should apply to gunpla as well: https://www.goonhammer.com/the-fabricator-general-getting-started-with-aibrushing-the-basic-set-up-and-equipment/ Oh, that and the other articles are useful, thanks. Looks like I'm going to hold off though, airbrush gear seems to be in very limited supply in Canada right now. Basic kits are either out of stock or have terrible reviews, the Badger 105 (and basically everything else under $300CAD) is out of stock, and the duty/shipping fees to buy from the US are killer. Speaking of shipping fees, I got a bunch of stuff in my private warehouse on Hobby Link Japan, and the only shipping options are $75+... for $150 worth of goods. oof.
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May 16, 2020 15:23
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What's a good place to pick up generic decals? I've yet to see any at local hobby shops and Amazon's selection isn't doing it for me.
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May 16, 2020 16:12
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JT Smiley posted:What's a good place to pick up generic decals? I've yet to see any at local hobby shops and Amazon's selection isn't doing it for me. Pretty much any online hobby retailer is going to have a vast array of decals. You're probably going to have to repurpose some military model decals, though - there's not a lot out there period for generic robot decals. Scale Hobbyist is good people. Hobbylinc tends to have some weirder selections, but they can be pretty slow to ship. Megahobby is okay, I guess.
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May 16, 2020 18:11
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JT Smiley posted:What's a good place to pick up generic decals? I've yet to see any at local hobby shops and Amazon's selection isn't doing it for me. Scale hobbyist You get that thing I sent ya?
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May 16, 2020 18:55
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They're doing a new MG Casval's Gundam and it looks insanely badass. P-Bandai, of course
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May 16, 2020 19:27
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My first airbrush is on its way in pieces, but it's coming. In the meantime I did an EVA Unit 02. Unpainted but with panel lines. It's the 1996 HG model and the age shows in places. For starters, the build instructions don't have the sequence information. It's possible to figure it out, but adds to the difficulty of the kit. Some of the assemblies are very tricky to put together. This is definitely a notch above a modern HG kit, but it's worth the effort. The torso behind the head lifts and opens to reveal a removable plug for the pilot. The stickers and panel lining aren't perfect, but I'm happy with it.     
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May 16, 2020 19:31
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Dead Like Rev posted:You get that thing I sent ya? Yup! Just came in the mail today, I honestly can't believe how nice this is. The box alone is nice as hell lol. Thanks again! I really appreciate it.
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May 16, 2020 21:57
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Midjack posted:Yeah those little turrets were bar none the worst part of the Yamato kits. I ended up pushing with a cotton swab. Well, I ended up finishing it, its a nice enough looking kit, but my fingers just cant handle all those turrets, even the small single moulded ones. Looks great minus the few pieces that sprung off that I'll find in 6 months time. 10/10 plamo experience would plamo again.
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May 17, 2020 01:45
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Decided to spend last night putting together Dynames' weapons instead of his legs. Or even his waist. My husband thought to comment on this, but I politely informed him you don't need legs to be a sniper.   I built his waist and the rear end thrusters today, and decided to splooge some gold paint on all of the yellow bits. Easily the best decision I've made so far regarding this kit. I love how this shade of gold looks with the dark green armor.     My Newtype order arrived today so I have the LED units, but the batteries I ordered on Amazon-loving-prime won't be here until Tuesday or Wednesday. 
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May 17, 2020 06:16
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Bees on Wheat posted:I politely informed him you don't need legs to be a sniper. Sit his rear end down to watch Thunderbolt now.
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May 17, 2020 07:12
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Bees on Wheat posted:Decided to spend last night putting together Dynames' weapons instead of his legs. Or even his waist. My husband thought to comment on this, but I politely informed him you don't need legs to be a sniper. Legs are just for show. The brass doesn't know how things really work.
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May 17, 2020 07:42
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I've started building weapons and accessories first as a rule. It saves me from losing motivation and doing a rush job after the robit is done.
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May 17, 2020 08:43
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Anyone here built the Gundam Alex 2.0 MG? I really like the look of it but I heard that there is an issue with the wrists tending to break. EDIT: Well I am weak. Already pulled the trigger on the Chonky Boi. Hopefully it is merely an uncommon problem, or it is enough to keep it in mind when constructing the wrists. Unlucky7 fucked around with this message at 09:38 on May 17, 2020 |
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May 17, 2020 09:23
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Bill Posters posted:I've started building weapons and accessories first as a rule. It saves me from losing motivation and doing a rush job after the robit is done. Yeah ask my Zeros how good I am at building weapons after everything else is done. I built a HGAC Wing Zero recently (the tv version and not another goddamn angel winged version, for once..) and it took like a week after that to build the buster rifles. My PG Zero Custom still doesn't have buster rifles and that was a goddamn Christmas present. Usually I build weapons last, but sometimes I'll do them at the beginning just to get them out of the way, especially if it's a simple build. Being able to fully complete one part of the project, no matter how small, is really good for keeping my motivation going. That GN sniper rifle, on the other hand, was not a simple build.. but god drat it looks good.  Pistols, though, you could make a loving dozen of these in the same amount of time.  The rest of the robot has like, most of one leg now. That's good enough, right?
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May 17, 2020 09:55
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Unlucky7 posted:Anyone here built the Gundam Alex 2.0 MG? I really like the look of it but I heard that there is an issue with the wrists tending to break. The Alex 2.0 is a really good kit, but yes, the wrists are an extremely tight joint that you probably want to file down a bit. The parts involved are G13+14 if you don't read ahead in the instructions to see that you're building the wrist 
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May 17, 2020 16:12
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LibrarianCroaker posted:The Alex 2.0 is a really good kit, but yes, the wrists are an extremely tight joint that you probably want to file down a bit. The parts involved are G13+14 if you don't read ahead in the instructions to see that you're building the wrist What type of sandpaper should I get for that then. Coarse or fine?
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May 17, 2020 21:30
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Putting together the MG Turn X gives me a whole new appreciation for this machine. There are so many odd angles I never noticed. The way its center of gravity hangs over these two gigantic stilt feet. The way the closed Shining Finger is recessed on the underside, making the pod look like a clenched fist. The way some armor plates overlap each other and the empty space lines up to form a straight line. Such an amazing design. I was resolved to clear my backlog during quarantine but i'm definitely getting the Turn A after this.
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May 17, 2020 21:59
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Unlucky7 posted:What type of sandpaper should I get for that then. Coarse or fine? Best bet would be to get some really fine sand paper and find the sweet spot where it feels like it should go in easily enough without sacrificing the ability to hold a gun and not droop. If you do go to far you can always thicken up the joint with nail polish/super glue but let it set first before assembling.
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May 17, 2020 22:13
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One more question: Is the problem joint in question between G13+G14 (Which looks like a ball joint to me), or the combined part going with the rest of the construction? Anyway, the kit is already in the backlog (The backlog pile up is real. Gunpla is a hell of a hobby), so by the time I get to work on it I will have some decent sand paper. Assuming that the problem area is inserting the ball joint I may try it out without sanding to see if it easily goes in, then sand it down if it doesn't.
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May 17, 2020 23:48
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