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bloops posted:Any recommendations on a NAS solution? I’d like to move away from separate external hard drives to one unit. I typically use sessions through Capture One, so speed of loading raw files wirelessly is a priority. If you don't mind things being a little bootleg, you can install Xpenology on an old desktop and fill it with drives. I've had mine running for 4-5 years or so and it's been great. It had gigabit ethernet, so I got a gigabit switch and filled it with drives for a 12TB RAID1 and it's super fast.
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May 5, 2020 16:25
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Is this the best setup for using a mirrorless as a webcam? Everywhere is sold out of Logitech Brio and 92x webcams so I was noodling using my X-T3 or O-MD E-M10 Mark III Ultimate Extreme Edition 1.0 as a webcam for kicks. But I'd rather not drop $500 for the privilege of showing up the guys who just have really expensive mics with ~*bokeh*~ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2CA1bGmEiM
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May 8, 2020 19:53
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Anyone who hasn't watched it, I recommend Mr. Turner. One, it's a pretty good, fairly faithful movie of William Turner's life, and it was one worth watching. Two, the cinematography is phenomenal. Dick Pope did the work there.
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May 8, 2020 20:13
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Dangerllama posted:Is this the best setup for using a mirrorless as a webcam? Everywhere is sold out of Logitech Brio and 92x webcams so I was noodling using my X-T3 or O-MD E-M10 Mark III Ultimate Extreme Edition 1.0 as a webcam for kicks. But I'd rather not drop $500 for the privilege of showing up the guys who just have really expensive mics with ~*bokeh*~ I think so. One concern I've heard is thermal management. Since the mirrorless cameras weren't designed for continuous use, the sensor could get much hotter than what it's designed for. This is hearsay, and may well be no concern, but it sounds plausible to me. Finally, whenever I :wfh:, I only look at myself. I never look at other people, and neither does anybody else. So that guy in your video is peak masturbation. After the novelty wore off, I now use the builtin camera and have no reason to ever look back.
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May 8, 2020 21:13
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I’m not sure if this question is within the scope of this thread, but does anyone recall the blog/website guide to street photography where the author was really hammering in that the only thing he deemed acceptable for street was a leica and a certain f-stop? it was interspersed with his own street shots and I think everything was in black/white I don’t even know if that website exists anymore or if anyone remembers but I do think the link was among the resources in the op of a street photography megathread back in 2008, so I would guess the previous iteration
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May 15, 2020 21:13
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A while back, I decided to upgrade my general-purpose kit lens (Nikon 18-55mm) to a new general-purpose lens (Sigma 17-55mm). On some occasions, the Sigma preforms nicely, but I've also run into some situations where it gives me trouble. Two examples are below, both taken on a hike in the Grand Canyon. (Ignore the fact that they're not great photos anyway.)  The problem is those lens-flare spots near the sun and the bright blue spot opposite the sun in the first photo. I don't ever recall having quite this much trouble with sun refraction or dust with my kit lens, even when having the sun in/near frame. It's possible that the canyon is a bit dustier than normal, or I wasn't keeping my lens clean, but I'm still a bit disappointed in this. My other photos, when the sun wasn't close to the frame, turned out fine. Any tips for avoiding this sort of thing in the future? Do some lens have more trouble with the sun being in/near flame? Or do I just need to make extra sure that my lens is clean? I'd read that the Sigma was a pretty good lens, so I'm a little surprised by this. Any tips or advice?
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May 16, 2020 19:02
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Afaik, it's a function of lens coatings and keeping the sun out of certain position relative to the lens. Also, some primes are more tolerant to the sun than some zooms.
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May 16, 2020 21:11
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The sigma 17-50mm does have some flaring when shooting into a bright light source, the purple is probably the normal lens flare, here is the flaring in a video review. The speckling all over is dust. The optical design and coatings determine how badly a lens flares, and scratches and dust on the front element can worsen performance against bright lights (but otherwise won't affect image quality much, like in your other pictures). Using the hood helps, but on a zoom it might not help much, especially at the longer focal lengths. Shading the lens with something else may help too. Small camera movements can also move the flare around a lot, so composing carefully can help avoid it.
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May 16, 2020 21:30
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Lawson posted:I think so. One concern I've heard is thermal management. Since the mirrorless cameras weren't designed for continuous use, the sensor could get much hotter than what it's designed for. This is hearsay, and may well be no concern, but it sounds plausible to me. My wife had a virtual open house to host yesterday, so I had her set up with my A7III through an Elgato Cam Link 4K. I had it going through OBS so she could switch from PowerPoint to full-screen camera to PowerPoint with PIP camera, and it worked out well. I did not, however, show her how to turn off OBS after she ended the Facebook Live stream. When I went to bed that night, I happened to check on it and found out it'd been recording for 9 hours straight. No overheating or issues. I was impressed. I think it helps that it's not recording internally to the camera, but rather just exporting the sensor view through HDMI.
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May 18, 2020 14:09
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Is there a certain type of container that people use for photographing liquids in glass? Even my best drinking glass introduces a significant amount of astigmatism.
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May 19, 2020 02:15
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Borosilicate glass has significantly better optical qualities than general run of the mill soda glass We have a bunch of lab grade Pyrex borosilicate 600ml beakers we use as pint glasses in the kitchen https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004DGIII8 They are oven, stovetop, microwave safe, crystal clear and don't chip in the dishwasher Normally they are like $6-7 each but price is high right now, other brands are the same material but less price
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May 19, 2020 03:13
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Or are you talking about distortion on the left and right thirds of the glass?
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May 19, 2020 03:24
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Hadlock posted:Or are you talking about distortion on the left and right thirds of the glass? No, those distortions would disappear if a rectangular glass bottle were used (which is what i want to do). I unfortunately don't have a picture of what I am talking about because it was garbage and so I discarded it. But imagine a picture of bubbles in water. Just in front of the focal plane the bokeh balls are elongated along the x direction while behind the focal plane they are elongated in the y direction. I was hoping that I could get a rectangular water container that does not show this behavior.
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May 19, 2020 03:44
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Shooting through a higher RI medium will inherently induce spherical distortions, though to what extent that matters outside the macro/micro realm I am not sure.
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May 19, 2020 03:47
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Scarodactyl posted:Shooting through a higher RI medium will inherently induce spherical distortions, though to what extent that matters outside the macro/micro realm I am not sure. If I can shoot though an ND filter and not get elongated bokeh balls, I should be able to get a vessel with at least one flat glass surface that is of equally high quality.
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May 19, 2020 04:47
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Glass objects are generally shot using diffused rear light in a black room https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9NlA7yzFrw jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 09:48 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 09:44
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jarlywarly posted:Glass objects are generally shot using diffused rear light in a black room I am happy to see that I arrived at the same conclusion. But if the glass is of a low quality, the real subject (the liquid inside it) looks off.
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May 19, 2020 14:48
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Every drinking glass is going to distort, they aren't manufactured with optical clarity as a goal. Maybe you could get close with extremely thin glass but this depends on how close to perfect you think you need.
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May 19, 2020 15:26
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xzzy posted:Every drinking glass is going to distort, they aren't manufactured with optical clarity as a goal. Just need a Carl Zeiss tumbler.
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May 19, 2020 15:47
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If the container doesn't need to be in the shot, you could source some optically good sheet glass and make a tank with some silicone or replace a hole in another container with it.
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May 19, 2020 18:15
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theHUNGERian posted:I am happy to see that I arrived at the same conclusion. But if the glass is of a low quality, the real subject (the liquid inside it) looks off. Your best bet might be a small high quality fish tank and a polarising filter.
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May 19, 2020 18:18
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I ended up finding an old perfume bottle that seems to fit the bill for now.
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May 20, 2020 01:56
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I've had my Pentax K-50 for slightly longer than 4 years (literally 4 years and 8 days. The warranty expired 8 fuckin' days ago.) And I just pulled it out to snaps some pictures and everything is dark as heck. I did some googling and it looks like this is a common problem with a fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzGbyZHPknQ The comments section indicates that this fix works, but I am not comfortable just doing this without understanding why it works. Can anyone explain what that thing is and how it is malfunctioning? I have an Electrical Engineering background so you don't have to explain like I'm five or anything. A general explanation that would give me a some good words to google would be great.
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May 23, 2020 17:05
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I couldn't find anything definitive but they said the solenoid/plunger gets locked because the plunger becomes magnetized over time. There are also a number people saying the correct long term solution is to replace the green solenoid with a higher quality one.
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May 23, 2020 17:54
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holy wrong thread batman
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May 24, 2020 03:45
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Is there any photo-app that can invert colors easily? I wan't to get a sense of my negatives without having to do contact-prints all the time. You can do it in IOS but it's like 5 clicks deep in the settings.
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May 26, 2020 15:16
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Pondex posted:Is there any photo-app that can invert colors easily? I wan't to get a sense of my negatives without having to do contact-prints all the time.
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May 27, 2020 05:04
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You can get a quick and dirty fake invert in Lightroom by reversing the slope of the curve.. move the black point the the upper left and the white point to the lower right. It'll have a weird color cast but it's kinda close.
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May 27, 2020 13:28
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I really need to start printing out my work and hanging it around the house. Frames are expensive so I was thinking that I would just have the prints mounted on 3mm styrene and put some Vinyl Square Bumpers on the back to make it look as if it is floating off the wall. Anyone done this and think it is a good plan?
Thom12255 fucked around with this message at 21:20 on May 31, 2020 |
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May 31, 2020 21:08
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I've been littering my living room with aluminum prints on half inch standoffs and I think it looks great. It passed the wife test too. It depends on the look though. Some photos absolutely require a classic dry mounting with a white border. I wouldn't put standoffs on something like that.
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May 31, 2020 21:28
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xzzy posted:I've been littering my living room with aluminum prints on half inch standoffs and I think it looks great. It passed the wife test too. Yeah, I alternate glass and aluminum prints.
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May 31, 2020 22:11
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Anyone have a good link for how to photograph largish art pieces (up to 6 feet or so, both paintings and 3-d). Someone may be willing to pay me to do this, and I'd love to go in with something of a plan.
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Jun 10, 2020 23:14
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BetterLekNextTime posted:Anyone have a good link for how to photograph largish art pieces (up to 6 feet or so, both paintings and 3-d). Someone may be willing to pay me to do this, and I'd love to go in with something of a plan. For paintings, I did this for a client last year - https://www.artworkarchive.com/blog/4-steps-to-photographing-your-art-like-a-professional Set up two softboxes on either side at a 45 deg angle to hit the painting and light in evenly, camera on tripod in between them. If you don't have softboxes, just get some big pieces of white foam core from a store and shoot the lights off them to make them reflectors.
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Jun 11, 2020 14:57
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Thom12255 posted:For paintings, I did this for a client last year - https://www.artworkarchive.com/blog/4-steps-to-photographing-your-art-like-a-professional Perfect, thanks. I don't have the soft boxes but the sheet trick looks do-able if we don't have a good spot with natural light.
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Jun 11, 2020 15:31
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The main trick is to not light the pieces directly, use diffusion or bounce to avoid hotspotting. The specific setup is pretty flexible.
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Jun 11, 2020 20:23
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What is the go-to flash system for Fuji now? I remember a couple years ago, the official Fuji flash didn't even have radio, and needed line of sight for slave units. And there were no yonguo sets for Fuji at the time either. Has that changed?
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Jun 15, 2020 22:24
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polyester concept posted:What is the go-to flash system for Fuji now? I remember a couple years ago, the official Fuji flash didn't even have radio, and needed line of sight for slave units. And there were no yonguo sets for Fuji at the time either. Has that changed? Godox. I've got the TT350 speedlite that takes AA batteries (though there's a Lith-Ion version too - the V350?) and the X1T trigger and it works nicely (even if I don't know how to use it properly).
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Jun 15, 2020 22:35
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polyester concept posted:What is the go-to flash system for Fuji now? I remember a couple years ago, the official Fuji flash didn't even have radio, and needed line of sight for slave units. And there were no yonguo sets for Fuji at the time either. Has that changed? Yeah, it's Godox/Flashpoint. I have the same TT350 that T-Rex mentions and the size is great but its relatively low power is limiting once you start talking about using it with diffusion, at greater distances, etc. I actually have two of them and will sometimes double them up to create a single brighter source. Robert Hall Photography on Youtube is a good starting point for figuring out the model lineup.
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Jun 15, 2020 23:28
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polyester concept posted:What is the go-to flash system for Fuji now? I remember a couple years ago, the official Fuji flash didn't even have radio, and needed line of sight for slave units. And there were no yonguo sets for Fuji at the time either. Has that changed? Thirding the Godox recommendation. Been really happy with the AD200's. And their battery tech is stupid good.
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Jun 16, 2020 01:58
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Godox is great - I have the Flashpoint branding through Adorama and haven't had any problems with my two AD200's. I just need a V1 so I can finally get rid of my 430EX II and it's 4 AA batteries that take 20 hours to charge.
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Jun 17, 2020 13:33
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