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Yeah, making little rolls from a bulk spool is great.
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May 14, 2020 21:33
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Shot and developed my first roll of slide film—Provia 100F. I think the results are decent. Didn’t mutilate it like I was afraid I would. The dried film curls like a bastard though.  
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May 14, 2020 21:35
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This is nice!
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May 14, 2020 22:06
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I really like Provia, Ektachrome shadows tend to block up easily with this nasty green colour which doesn't seem to happen with Provia. I found it to be a bit cool under normal daylight conditions but that's easy to change when scanning.
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May 14, 2020 23:32
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ImplicitAssembler posted:This is nice! Thank you! The scans seem a bit out if focus, and I wonder if it’s because of how curled the film is. A few frames sag so low in the holder that I’m seeing newton rings. Gonna try and flatten them out then rescan. Of course I’ve never shot ektachrome, but I did a fair bit of research before buying the provia. Based on the image samples I saw it didn’t seem very appealing to me.
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May 15, 2020 01:44
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I'm leaning towards Provia, but I've got limited experience with both. P.S. I can see what you mean with the focus, when I look at it on Flickr, but it's still a nicely composed picture.
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May 15, 2020 02:03
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A bit more contrast-y than I usually try for, but I kinda like it. e: More!  
President Beep fucked around with this message at 20:06 on May 15, 2020 |
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May 15, 2020 16:05
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Question: when loading exposed film into a tank and reel in a changing bag, should I wear cotton gloves or is bare handed fine?
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May 16, 2020 18:27
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bloops posted:Question: when loading exposed film into a tank and reel in a changing bag, should I wear cotton gloves or is bare handed fine? Personal preference really. I make sure my hands are clean and dry and I just handle around the edges as much as possible. Even if my fingers have touched the emulsion when loading I've not seen any adverse effects on the film in development.
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May 16, 2020 18:34
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Dudeabides posted:Personal preference really. I make sure my hands are clean and dry and I just handle around the edges as much as possible. Even if my fingers have touched the emulsion when loading I've not seen any adverse effects on the film in development. Thanks! Developing my first roll today (of cat photos).
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May 16, 2020 18:38
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bloops posted:Thanks! Developing my first roll today (of cat photos). Good luck!
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May 16, 2020 18:48
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I get fingerprints all over film when loading it into the tank. I don’t even try to be careful. Never had problems, I assume they all get washed off during development.
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May 16, 2020 18:50
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bloops posted:Question: when loading exposed film into a tank and reel in a changing bag, should I wear cotton gloves or is bare handed fine? I usually don't bother. If your hands get sweaty it might get pretty difficult, but I think wearing gloves would compromise your dexterity and sense of touch too much (at least it would for me). On a side note, probably the best tip I've ever read when it comes to loading exposed film onto reels, which I may have seen ITT, is to bevel the corners of the leading end of the roll. I used to have quite a few issues withe film binding as I worked it onto the reel, but ever since I started trimming the corners it's not happened once.
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May 16, 2020 21:48
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Update: loading the film was easy thanks to practicing on a sacrificial roll. Development was really straight forward with Cinestill's Df96 monobath. Film is drying now. Edit: it worked. 
bloops fucked around with this message at 23:53 on May 16, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 22:15
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I found an expired pack of D76 and finally got around to developing something with it. Tri-X 400 with a C330. I don't know how I always manage to get weird marks like this when I develop medium format.  
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May 18, 2020 04:55
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bloops posted:Question: when loading exposed film into a tank and reel in a changing bag, should I wear cotton gloves or is bare handed fine? nominally you should probably wear gloves to help it feed easier and keep any possible grease-prints off the negative to keep them from resisting the developer and screwing things up, but in practice no I've never worn gloves and it's never been a problem what does make a difference is using the film reels with the "wide" loading flanges though, I think you should straight-up throw away any reels with the little 1/4" nubs
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May 18, 2020 05:02
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For 35mm, my method is to keep the exposed film in the canister and put it in the changing bag with just the leader out. I'll put a pair of scissors in the bag as well. I use my thumb and forefinger to bow the film slightly while feeding it onto the reel, cradling the canister with the rest of my fingers. When I get to the end I'll lay everything down gently then snip the end of the roll with the scissors. I find that keeping the film in the canister makes the whole process easier since I'm minimizing the amount of loose film I'm touching or having to maneuver around. Never tried this on anything but my stainless steel tanks but I imagine it wouldn't be different with plastic equipment.
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May 18, 2020 16:10
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I've never tried cutting the edges of the film but it sounds like it makes a lot of sense so I'll have to try it. I feel like the more I use my reels the harder it gets to get the film on them nicely. I've also never tried keeping the film in the can but I always rewind my film all the way back in and I hate trying to grab the leader to get it back out, though it also sounds like it would make loading onto the reel very easy. I imagine it would also help keep the film from getting bunched up.
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May 18, 2020 19:55
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For 35mm I have a daylight loading tank (a mid-50s Soviet Sputnik tank), where you load the film still in the canister into the tank, and then wind it out of the canister and on to the reel once it's inside. That means you're only touching the leader until it's time to pull it off the reel after development. When I use my Paterson tank for 120, I don't wear gloves but I always wash my hands before loading it to clean all the sweat and oils off.
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May 18, 2020 21:08
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A friend gave me a roll of Kodak ultramax 400 in 35mm so I shot it, looks like it was expired though because it was grainy af.   Also one from a roll of Kodak cine film (250D) that I did a shocking job of removing the remjet on which ruined most of the shots. This one doesn't have much remjet but it was ruined by being a hand-held 1 second exposure... 
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May 21, 2020 09:31
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Nice and punchy though. I like it.
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May 21, 2020 14:23
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The look of that Ultramax. I think the kids today call it aesthetic. I like it.
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May 23, 2020 20:34
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I really like the halation on that cave pic.
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May 23, 2020 20:46
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Shot and developed Fuji Neopan ACROS II for the first time. I liked the results I got. Here is one of the shots, it's also the first of the photos I've seen with the 50mm f/1.2 I found at an estate sale. It was stuck to an FG body for 20 dollars. I developed it in some slightly expired D76, I was going to send it to the lab since it was all new stuff to me but I broke the film off the canister. It's the third time I've done it on a Nikon F and finally just realized I'm supposed to turn the knob underneath the shutter release. I'm smart. Acros Nikon F 21 by Grease Gunner, on Flickr Acros Nikon F 30 by Grease Gunner, on Flickr Acros Nikon F 20 by Grease Gunner, on FlickrI also managed to swing a 55mm macro for real cheap  Acros Nikon F 17 by Grease Gunner, on Flickr
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Jun 25, 2020 07:26
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I like that second shot, the one with the pennants. Subtle contrast.
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Jun 25, 2020 16:26
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Didn't see this posted in the OP or asked a few pages back so I'll ask here. Kudos to all of you processing your own film. I recently found two point and shoot disposable cameras (the Kodak kind) from what I'd guess to be 2001-2003, as well as two rolls of film that were shot. Do local Wal-Marts still have photo labs that process film? Otherwise, which web-based companies are suggested for processing? Thanks!
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Jun 28, 2020 23:43
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Tortilla Maker posted:Didn't see this posted in the OP or asked a few pages back so I'll ask here. Kudos to all of you processing your own film. Wal-Mart, Walgreens and CVS will still take your film in but they don't process onsite and they will destroy your negatives. Your best bet would be to go to a local camera store if you still have one around you, otherwise you should try Dwayne's Photo or The Darkroom if you wanna go the online route.
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Jun 29, 2020 00:08
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They charge too much as well and give you back lovely scans.
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Jun 29, 2020 00:09
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many places send them out to bigger labs, which i hear are known to not return negatives. with expired film, they might not bother with the trouble of making adjustments to salvage photos and could return a slip that says there were no photos to print, or remarkably off color photos. best bet is using The Darkroom, or Old school Photo Lab, or buying chemicals to do it yourself if you have the means. you might even be surprised to learn someone local is doing processing
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Jun 29, 2020 00:10
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Is this just some weird flare/internal reflection, or do you think it might indicate something lovely with the shutter? 000083050021 by S M, on FlickrTrying out a Nikon F3 after my FE2 went swimming on a long hike around a state park a few weeks ago. I'm suspicious of old horizontal cloth focal plane shutters and particularly that of the F3 after I had one (a beat to hell P model) that always underexposed at faster speeds, on the right-hand side, due to uneven curtain travel. First roll was not a good test because it was all long exposures. Don't remember how long this one was, but it must've been too slow for shutter curtain speed variance to have any effect on exposure. Still... SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jul 4, 2020 |
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Jul 4, 2020 03:04
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Yeah that looks an awful lot like shutter fuckery. Take a few shots with another roll at a few speeds, cut it out in the dark and develop it to be sure.
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Jul 4, 2020 03:25
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Agreed. That looks way too linear to be flare.
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Jul 4, 2020 03:33
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Looks like my Kiev that suffered mirror bounce. It would be up to 3 lines, not all the time and no issue with longer exposures.
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Jul 4, 2020 09:32
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Yes my old Kiev is exactly what it reminded me of. In this case it was only on the one frame, and it was a long exposure. Mirror bounce is not something I’d considered. Maybe I just need to use the viewfinder blind. Edit: actually, I should’ve had the mirror locked up for this shot... Edit: contrary to what I said before, the curtains move from right to left, so it could be shutter bounce. Using my phone’s slow-mo video mode seems like a good way to get video of the shutter’s movement, but I haven’t been able to draw any conclusions from the recordings so far. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jul 4, 2020 |
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Jul 4, 2020 16:52
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So, I’ve learned first hand what a piece of junk the 120 holder that comes with the V600 is. Anyone try the Better Scanning replacement dealio? I’m willing to shell out if it’ll improve the workflow.
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Jul 4, 2020 20:06
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President Beep posted:So, I’ve learned first hand what a piece of junk the 120 holder that comes with the V600 is. Anyone try the Better Scanning replacement dealio? I’m willing to shell out if it’ll improve the workflow. It’s a bit flimsy. What issue does yours have?
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Jul 4, 2020 20:18
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Flimsy in general, also sometimes have issues with film sagging. Figured something like the Better Scanning holder with the ANR glass insert would be an improvement.
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Jul 4, 2020 20:26
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President Beep posted:Flimsy in general, also sometimes have issues with film sagging. Figured something like the Better Scanning holder with the ANR glass insert would be an improvement. I may look into those as well. I haven’t had too many issues with the holders as of now but I’m sure better holders would yield a better scan
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Jul 4, 2020 20:52
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I get better results from an ANR glass plate for 120. Can't remember if it was BetterScanning brand or not. It fits into the lower piece of my v550's holder in place of the plastic frame. Much better film flatness. Whether or not that does just a whole hell of a lot for the already marginal image quality of the v550 is kind of in the eye of the beholder IMO, but there is a noticeable (if not huge) improvement. The bulging and awkward shimmying of setting the film into the holder is made a little less annoying by the glass plate, too. You at least have the piece of mind of knowing that you couldn't do anything more. Speaking of, my v550 is coming on with a green ready light, but that's it. Computer doesn't detect it, and there's no warm-up action. I'm hoping it's just the USB cable going out, but if not I guess I'll be in the market for a new scanner soon. Kind of annoying because I shot and developed a true test roll from my new F3, but I can't get the frames scanned to check for shutter wackness. In the meantime, I shot this video of the shutter in action with my phone's slow-mo function. Anyone see any obvious signs of dragging, capping, etc.? Speeds shown are 125, 500, 2000..I think. https://imgur.com/ntckyQP (The GIF doesn’t play in my version of the awful app browser, but copy/paste into mobile safari does fine.) SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jul 4, 2020 |
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Jul 4, 2020 21:11
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| # ? May 10, 2024 19:30 |
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President Beep posted:So, I’ve learned first hand what a piece of junk the 120 holder that comes with the V600 is. Anyone try the Better Scanning replacement dealio? I’m willing to shell out if it’ll improve the workflow. I use a better scanning holder and really like it. Keeping another surface clean and dust free is a small price to pay for flat, in focus negs.
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Jul 4, 2020 22:56
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