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I could be wrong, but I always assumed that liquid primer was more in the vein of a liquid putty that you brushed on for things like filling gaps.
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May 25, 2020 22:45
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I could be wrong, but I always assumed that liquid primer was more in the vein of a liquid putty that you brushed on for things like filling gaps. Yeah, thats one recommended use for it. Tamiya also recommends thinning it down and airbrushing it though.
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May 25, 2020 22:51
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I tried airbrushing Tamiya primer and had an absolutely terrible time of it. It definitely needs to be thinned and thinned a lot.
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May 26, 2020 00:23
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Still undecided on how I should proceed with the underside of the wings: Not sure if I should go with the lower example, or the upper. Reference pics show the wing structure as being pretty clearly defined, so I'm leaning towards the lower. The lower technique would still need some weathering or modulation with oils to make it look less uniform. Eduard also made the rib tapes and stitching really overscale, so I think the thickness of that is also messing with me. Edit: Added a reference pic: 
Symetrique fucked around with this message at 04:52 on May 26, 2020 |
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May 26, 2020 04:47
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Personally I like the top example, but either would work. Keep in mind the visibility of the wing ribs would depend on several factors. They really stand out in your example pic because they sun is directly above and shining through the canvas on the wings. I bet if you were to look from above, you'd only be able to see the physical bulge of the ribs, and wouldn't see any shadow detail at all.
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May 26, 2020 05:12
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Personally I like the top example, but either would work. Thanks for the input. Yeah this is just for the underside of the wings. I was able to find a video of the replica in flight from a wing mounted camera, so it showed how much the light positioning affected the appearance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVzg0zM58is I think it might be best if I mask off the top example's interior structures and go over them again in a thin dark brown or Tamiya Smoke layer to make the edges a bit more pronounced.
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May 26, 2020 05:24
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I could be wrong, but I always assumed that liquid primer was more in the vein of a liquid putty that you brushed on for things like filling gaps. I use Mister Surfacer 500 unthinned for filling gaps, and Vallejo Surface Primer, without thinning, to Prime through an airbrush. I sometimes add some Flow Improver if I'm going to do a large surface/batch.
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May 26, 2020 08:08
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Anyone know a good way to get rid of fingerprints on clear parts? like window glass in car models? It's sort of impossible to not handle them when you are setting them in place and gluing them in and I always end up getting fingerprints on them that I can't remove with anything I've tried so far.
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May 26, 2020 14:39
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As in you got fingerprints on hard-to-clean places once it's all glued in, or you stuck your finger in cement and touched a clear part? For the former, you could try cutting down a cotton swab and maybe do some strategic bending. For the latter, really fine sandpaper followed by polishing compound on a soft cloth is about the only way to buff that out. Use less cement if you're getting spillage, or plain old clear-drying glue instead of cement.
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May 26, 2020 14:59
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Get one of those fiberglass pens! They are amazing for getting rid of excess glue marks and polishing/sanding stuff like fingerprints and PE parts.
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May 26, 2020 15:23
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put tamiya masking tape on your finger tips when handling clear parts to avoid this in the future
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May 26, 2020 17:41
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I'm about to start a Tamiya Ducati 996 bike kit. It's my first time doing a 1:12 scale model, or a bike, so I'm a little nervous. Is there something obvious I should know, or things to avoid, and just general tips? I usually do 1:72 planes and 28mm miniatures.
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May 27, 2020 12:43
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I just discovered there are OPINIONS about the USS Arizona and what paint it had at Pearl Is this something you modellers know about or did I just find a strange corner of the internet?
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May 27, 2020 13:43
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simplefish posted:I just discovered there are OPINIONS about the USS Arizona and what paint it had at Pearl Large swaths of the online model building community are only about building models in the same way that audiophile communities are about music: it's mostly an opportunity to engage in alt-macho dick measuring over who's the most hardcore.
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May 27, 2020 14:06
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simplefish posted:I just discovered there are OPINIONS about the USS Arizona and what paint it had at Pearl People argue about the final paint scheme on Bismarck too. Lack of colour photos, or lack of any photos at all, make this largely unknowable for many famous ships modellers like to build.
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May 27, 2020 14:23
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I'm pretty sure Bismarck's final color scheme was a dark blue shade. Anyone who wants to argue with you about specific shades of historical paint prior to, I dunno, Pantone swatches is probably not worth taking seriously.
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May 27, 2020 14:42
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grassy gnoll posted:I'm pretty sure Bismarck's final color scheme was a dark blue shade. Bismarck's dispute is what colour were the top of her main battery and secondary turrets painted, yellow, red, or grey?
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May 27, 2020 15:32
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I respect that some people want to adhere to precise historical accuracy on their model builds. I also respect that some people don't give a gently caress and just want to paint it how they like. grassy gnoll posted:I'm pretty sure Bismarck's final color scheme was a dark blue shade. Ok but you can't just casually whip out a Pantone book and compare the swatch. You better make your comparisons in a light booth with multiple light temperatures and check your remission curves with a spectro.  I threw together an old-school Tamiya Panther, has 1969 stamped on the bottom. Crazy that I just put together a kit that was manufactured two decades before I was born. Still have to add the tracks/varnish/weather (the spare track links really really really do not want to mount to the hull).  
Vorenus fucked around with this message at 18:13 on May 27, 2020 |
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May 27, 2020 16:23
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Future model makers will have it so easy, there's high def color photos of everything and ships/planes are all the same grey color
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May 27, 2020 17:02
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Phi230 posted:Future model makers will have it so easy, there's high def color photos of everything and ships/planes are all the same grey color Yeah but most photos these days are taken with cell phones then if they're edited at all it's on an uncalibrated monitor. Our version of a color plate of a faded photo run through an all in one scanner is going to be the Android auto touch up feature and Samsung's over saturated color model.
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May 27, 2020 17:28
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Yeah but most photos these days are taken with cell phones then if they're edited at all it's on an uncalibrated monitor. Our version of a color plate of a faded photo run through an all in one scanner is going to be the Android auto touch up feature and Samsung's over saturated color model. Oh god grogs of the future yelling at eachother about shades of grey taken on iphones vs. samsungs
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May 27, 2020 17:39
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I just click Adjustments -> Auto Level 
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May 27, 2020 17:59
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Phi230 posted:Future model makers will have it so easy, there's high def color photos of everything and ships/planes are all the same grey color otoh digital camo patterns
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May 27, 2020 18:09
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The arguments over weathering will always be present though
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May 27, 2020 18:24
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Ensign Expendable posted:I just click Adjustments -> Auto Level Exactly. Each implementation is slightly different, built around different sets of assumptions about what people photograph. They do things like take the whitest thing in a scene and assume it's actually white. Some use neural networks for extra fun.
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May 27, 2020 18:34
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Vorenus posted:I respect that some people want to adhere to precise historical accuracy on their model builds. I also respect that some people don't give a gently caress and just want to paint it how they like. Sure, but when paint standards for RAF brown, say, consisted of yelling at Harry to go see what brown we had left in the shed, haggling over specific hues in the absence of widespread color photography or period-intact paint chips seems overly optimistic. For stuff where we've got systematized color mixing instructions, you can at least make an argument. I've never built their old Panther, but I admit I'm curious. Tamiya's Pz II and their old Zero are still pretty good kits, for being almost half a century old.
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May 27, 2020 22:03
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Yeah notice how all the argumentation surrounds like German or Japanese models - you don't see people screaming about paint when there's something like the Federal Standard system
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May 27, 2020 22:11
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Phi230 posted:Yeah notice how all the argumentation surrounds like German or Japanese models - you don't see people screaming about paint when there's something like the Federal Standard system Oh yeah you do. The slapfights over early war USAAF primers or interior colors are rare, but they do happen.
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May 27, 2020 22:40
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Furism posted:I'm about to start a Tamiya Ducati 996 bike kit. It's my first time doing a 1:12 scale model, or a bike, so I'm a little nervous. Is there something obvious I should know, or things to avoid, and just general tips? I usually do 1:72 planes and 28mm miniatures. Be prepared to really enjoy how well the kit goes together. I've done 6 of the bike kits and I have zero complaints about any of them. If you're used to assembling a lot first and then painting like with armor and planes, be aware that automotive stuff is usually much more of a paint as you go process. That's about all I have for pointers.
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May 28, 2020 00:18
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grassy gnoll posted:I've never built their old Panther, but I admit I'm curious. Tamiya's Pz II and their old Zero are still pretty good kits, for being almost half a century old. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about it. Other than 50 year old rubber tracks being stubborn there weren't any huge issues. grassy gnoll posted:Sure, but when paint standards for RAF brown, say, consisted of yelling at Harry to go see what brown we had left in the shed, haggling over specific hues in the absence of widespread color photography or period-intact paint chips seems overly optimistic. For stuff where we've got systematized color mixing instructions, you can at least make an argument. Would appreciate any suggestions on improving my technique. I like how it's turned out so far but I'm curious to know how it looks to a more experienced eye.
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May 28, 2020 06:25
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Vorenus posted:I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about it. Other than 50 year old rubber tracks being stubborn there weren't any huge issues. Thin your paint a bit more and make sure the needle doesnt have any paint stuck to it. Looks like you had a few spots where the paint splurted out. Thinning your paint and spraying at an appropriate PSI will also help reduce overspray and improve paint atomization. This video might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH5OHYfSq5A
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May 28, 2020 07:06
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Be prepared to really enjoy how well the kit goes together. I've done 6 of the bike kits and I have zero complaints about any of them. Thanks! I tend to err on the side of "more sub-assemblies is better" usually so I might already be on the right track then 
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May 28, 2020 08:37
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Vorenus posted:I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about it. Other than 50 year old rubber tracks being stubborn there weren't any huge issues. Right now, it looks a little flat. Shade variation and some details will get you fairly far. I'd suggest a highlight pass on your dunkelgelb and then some pin washes along the details of your model. If you're feeling brave, you can highlight areas on the camo striping, but the big yellow surfaces are what people are going to look at first, so as long as there's some lighting variation on them, you're probably good to go. Chipping is easy and quick if you sponge it on. Brushing on some detailed chips, weathering, or lettering is also good, if you've got steady hands and a lot of patience. Pretty much anything you can do to add subtle variation on big flat surfaces like a tank is going to make your model look nicer.
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May 28, 2020 14:47
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Furism posted:I'm about to start a Tamiya Ducati 996 bike kit. It's my first time doing a 1:12 scale model, or a bike, so I'm a little nervous. Is there something obvious I should know, or things to avoid, and just general tips? I usually do 1:72 planes and 28mm miniatures. Tamiya’s 1:12 bike kits are extremely well designed in my experience. A nice feature is that they usually use screws for a lot of the assembly as opposed to glue.
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May 28, 2020 21:05
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grassy gnoll posted:Sure, but when paint standards for RAF brown, say, consisted of yelling at Harry to go see what brown we had left in the shed That's Captain Wales to us, and typically the Firm only uses whitewash anyway
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May 28, 2020 21:05
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simplefish posted:I just discovered there are OPINIONS about the USS Arizona and what paint it had at Pearl IIRC the whole Arizona paint kerfuffle comes from one of those classic "misinterpreting historical documents as absolute facts" moments. There was a fleet order from Admiral Kimmel to repaint the ships into the updated Camouflage Measure 11 using 5-S Sea Blue (or 5-N Navy Blue as a substitute) shortly before the attack on Pearl Harbor, but whether and how much it was carried out is still open to debate. Some eyewitnesses describe the Battleships returning from maneuvers days before with the old dark grey Measure 1 camo. There is fairly convincing evidence that USS Nevada at least was still wearing the old dark grey w/ white control tops scheme, which indicates that the order hadn't necessarily been made a priority. Compare how the salvaged Nevada looks in this short color clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5cqIT6_Cbs&t=883s With how the USS California (definitely in Measure 21 using 5-N Navy Blue) looks immediately after refloating but before her major reconstruction in October 1942: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSMCGCBkgiI Since there are scarcely any color photographs of the Pearl Harbor attack that were not colorized after the fact, It's difficult to say what's true. It is a perfectly plausible scenario that some ships started repainting before the attack or may have even been in the middle of repainting when the attack began. It seems highly unlikely that Nevada and California were in the new scheme at all, but there are photos that look like some of the others may have started. I don't think this debate is ever going to be resolved reasonably because the evidence is just too scarce.
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May 29, 2020 00:18
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I thought this was really neat. https://imgur.com/gallery/VAiP1G0 This guy is scratch building an IBM 1401 computer.   
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May 29, 2020 03:44
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Darth Brooks posted:I thought this was really neat. This is extremely my poo poo. The detailing on that chair is just  Reminds me of Thomas Demand's art  Fukushima control room, life size model
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May 29, 2020 14:37
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I'd kill for a larger scale Project 7 Soviet destroyer. I was hoping to find a 3D-printable one, and I even saw there was some capability of grabbing the models out of World of Warships in the past, but I can't find any.
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May 30, 2020 13:01
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How do you deal with Tamiya decals? I’ve tried picking them, cutting them out with an exacto or pruning, and nothing works. Is there some secret magic to them?
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May 31, 2020 21:48
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