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Idle Amalgam
Mar 7, 2008

said I'm never lackin'
always pistol packin'
with them automatics
we gon' send 'em to Heaven

R0ckfish posted:

I have finally finished the Dark Imperium box set with these three fellows, just in time for the next box. :v:





You're a mini painting machine

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Brock Samsonite
Feb 3, 2010

Reality becomes illusory and observer-oriented when you study general relativity. Or Buddhism. Or get drafted.

Dienes posted:

Well this was fun.

:nws:
https://i.imgur.com/PXDvZGP.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/4heEWJR.jpg?1
:nws:

Shame there was so much printer texture.

wrong thread

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019

R0ckfish posted:

I have finally finished the Dark Imperium box set with these three fellows, just in time for the next box. :v:


You paint really well (scheme and execution) and it’s a treat to observe my friend.

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
So I started paining Mortarion, and while I vastly underestimated the amount of time I was going to spend on this model I am really enjoying it. I am curious for some opinions on the direction I should take though. Seeing as it's a Nurgle model I feel like I need more weathering and chipping than is on the model already, and some rust/corrosion would really fit in well.

I used the back of the leg that is hidden by the cloak to test out painting in some chipping, and the look is ok but I don't think it's fully complete. Should I just dive harder into the chipping and then throw some washes and streaking over the top of everything? All the holes/pustule looking things would work well for that. I worry about trying to add in rust directly on the green and having the colors look weird.



Looking at my photos also I can see that I need to push my shadows a lot deeper, my blends really get washed out and hidden without perfect lighting.

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Finally finished this thing










It was a slog, and there's a couple things I'm not happy with. but at some point you just have to call it done.

Hixson fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jun 8, 2020

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Hixson posted:

Finally finished this thing

timg]https://i.imgur.com/cOroHta.jpg[/timg]








It was a slog, and there's a couple things I'm not happy with. but at some point you just have to call it done.
Jesus Christ that’s fantastic

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
Looks incredible

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Dienes posted:

Well this was fun.

:nws:
https://i.imgur.com/PXDvZGP.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/4heEWJR.jpg?1
:nws:

Shame there was so much printer texture.

The direction Age of Sigmar is going is interesting. :hmmyes:

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


age of smegmar

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Hixson posted:

Finally finished this thing










It was a slog, and there's a couple things I'm not happy with. but at some point you just have to call it done.

gently caress

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Hixson posted:

Finally finished this thing










It was a slog, and there's a couple things I'm not happy with. but at some point you just have to call it done.

Your Night Lords continue to impress.

Also I'm glad you didn't go with the cheap and easy option of adding detail by putting flayed skin or random chaos scribbles. Having a clean vehicle like that, with the panel lining and lightning bolts, really gives it this kind of crisp look to it.

Gameko
Feb 23, 2006

The friend of all children!

R0ckfish posted:

Yep! It is just vallejo grey sand slopped on with the GW spatula.

This vallejo basing stuff is really great. One of the key things is when it dries it remains slightly elastic, so it won't shatter and individual bits of sand won't flake off. They have different types, and it's about ~14 bucks for a big old can which should last you quite a while.

I'd recommend going for 1x fine grit (desert sand maybe) and 1x coarse grit (pumice). The dark earth stuff is kind of somewhere in the middle. Go with desert sand for an all purpose base if you don't want to keep too much stuff on hand. Slather it on a base, give it overnight to dry, base it with an earthy color, wash, drybrush on a lighter color. Blam. Instant coolbase.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Is there a good brain dead recipe for cranking out worn/rusty swords for 150 skeletons?

Base metal is Vallejo model air silver. should I just wash with agrax, nuln, then edge highlight/drybrush?


Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

jesus WEP posted:

Jesus Christ that’s fantastic

TTerrible posted:

Looks incredible

Booley posted:

gently caress

Slimnoid posted:

Your Night Lords continue to impress.

Also I'm glad you didn't go with the cheap and easy option of adding detail by putting flayed skin or random chaos scribbles. Having a clean vehicle like that, with the panel lining and lightning bolts, really gives it this kind of crisp look to it.

Thanks for the kind words.

I did consider adding trophies/spikes/flesh/whatever to the exterior based off an ADB short story where Night Lords are hangin corpses on their gun ships between sorties on istavaan. In the end the look I went for was an unspectacular, hard used but well maintained legion gunship

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

w00tmonger posted:

Is there a good brain dead recipe for cranking out worn/rusty swords for 150 skeletons?

Base metal is Vallejo model air silver. should I just wash with agrax, nuln, then edge highlight/drybrush?




if you're feeling saucy you can also add in some Typhus Corrosion

Gameko
Feb 23, 2006

The friend of all children!

Spanish Manlove posted:

if you're feeling saucy you can also add in some Typhus Corrosion

Yeah, if you want to use the GW technicals I'd go with wash then drybrysh/stipple in some rhyza rust, then back over that with typhus corrosion. Usually the base brushing is the rust and the corrosion goes over that in a more subtle way. One pot of each should do a lot of weapons.

Start out sparing with them as you can add more after drying. Pretty soon you should get an effect you're happy with

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

w00tmonger posted:

Is there a good brain dead recipe for cranking out worn/rusty swords for 150 skeletons?

Base metal is Vallejo model air silver. should I just wash with agrax, nuln, then edge highlight/drybrush?




The quickest way is what you already suggested, though I'd go nuln > agrax > drybrush. This is if you're going for quick and easy. If you want to add more of a rusty look, Typhus Corrosion in the recesses adds some texture, and then stipple on some Ryza Rust for an orange look.

This tutorial uses mostly GW paints to get the rusty effect and is quick and simple, and already pairs off with your current color scheme. This one is more involved, but gets a more realistic effect and is a bit more eye-catching--I'd relegate that to more important models and not the 150 skeletons you're going to grind through, unless you're masochistic.

Given the color scheme you've got going, adding some orange rust to that blue-green would pair well and make them pop.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

havent looked into the technicals too much, but this has me pretty motivated.

going with nuln -> agrax -> drybrush (with metalic?) -> tyhpus -> ryza(maybe)

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

w00tmonger posted:

havent looked into the technicals too much, but this has me pretty motivated.

going with nuln -> agrax -> drybrush (with metalic?) -> tyhpus -> ryza(maybe)

I held off on the technicals for a long time but having used them somewhat recently they're great. Like washes, they're talent in a can, and judicious use of them can take a bog-standard metallic into something really great.

If you find that Ryza as the last step is too bright, maybe wash it with Agrax to blend everything together. If that's the case then hold off on doing Agrax early and use it as a finishing touch, since you don't want to go through washes that quickly.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

w00tmonger posted:

Is there a good brain dead recipe for cranking out worn/rusty swords for 150 skeletons?

Wash with matte Reikland Fleshshade, but not in the usual way. Let the wash pool in places and stain the flat parts erratically. Then, wherever the stains are heaviest do a random partial edge highlight with a bright orange. You're done!




but I have another suggestion.

Rust the skeletons' armor, age the wood of the weapons (zandri dust, gray drybrush, nuln oil wash), but leave the actual weapons (or at least the cutting edge) looking as bright and dangerous as possible. If you leave just the edges clear of rust it makes it look like they've been used enough to knock the rust free.

If you leave the whole weapon clear of rust, it makes it look like either the skeletons are either picking up fresh weapons after every battle, that they're individually intelligent enough to take care of their key equipment, or that their necromancer is making sure they're well equipped.



I find all of those scenarios a bit more intimidating than tetanus.

Edit: Plus it helps give line skellies a bit of visual pop at tabletop distance. Skellies can sometimes be an indistinct blob of browns/tans.

PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 8, 2020

BobFossil
Jun 17, 2005

Note to self: I hate whites.
kind of finished a random resin kit I found on ebay.

BobFossil fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Jun 8, 2020

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Finally finished up the Chosen Axes

Scandalous
Jul 16, 2009
I have finally done it. I have Finished A Guy.




This easily took me thirty hours.

So what have I learned?

I Suck, And That’s Okay
I am not a prodigy. Painting is hard. I’m not a great painter, and maybe I never will be. But it doesn’t really matter that much. This is something I do to relax and/or avoid adult responsibilities, and if I’m letting it stress me out then I’m missing the point. I’ve improved even just over the course of painting this one miniature in terms of brush control, mixing paints and minding my lighting.

Good Enough Is Good Enough
I’ve made a lot of mistakes on this model and most of them I’ve not gone back to correct. The brush slipped plenty and I shake like I’m guilty. The push-fit was super finicky; you can see it doesn’t really mesh together at the back and I’ve had to just ram the clipped head into the cowl to get it to even fit in! I’d love for it to be perfect but that’s not realistically within my capabilities right now. So long as I’m learning as I go along it’s okay.

Set Up A Painting Area
This was the biggest thing for me in motivating me to get this done. When I was having to spend 20 minutes getting everything set on the dining table it was really easy to procrastinate with it, and if I found myself in the mood to paint it can be a real enthusiasm sapper to have to do that chore knowing I’d have to spend as long clearing up afterwards. Once I set up a permanent painting area in the attic I could just go with a glass of water whenever the fancy struck me.

And finally:

Warpstone Glow Sucks

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Scandalous posted:

I have finally done it. I have Finished A Guy.

This easily took me thirty hours.

Now you just need to freehand a Salamanders insignia on the shoulder :unsmigghh:

But seriously, looks real good

Scandalous
Jul 16, 2009

Winklebottom posted:

Now you just need to freehand a Salamanders insignia on the shoulder :unsmigghh:

But seriously, looks real good
Thank you! I like your Salamander Duardin. We are clearly soulmates.

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

w00tmonger posted:

Is there a good brain dead recipe for cranking out worn/rusty swords for 150 skeletons?

Base metal is Vallejo model air silver. should I just wash with agrax, nuln, then edge highlight/drybrush?




Stipple a dark brown or dark brown texture paint, drybrush ryza, stipple ryza. Crazy quick, gives a few different tones and textures.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

lenoon posted:

Stipple a dark brown or dark brown texture paint, drybrush ryza, stipple ryza. Crazy quick, gives a few different tones and textures.

I have a brown texture paint (typhoid). Should cover the whole thing or just use it sparingly? Will this remove any of the underlying metal/washes?

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
I finished up some smaller monsters.

A Flying Forest Rat Elk Bird Peryton Parroton!



A couple of Spooky Ghost Bros



They got washed with a deep purple and got a layer of color-shifting craft paint lightly drybrushed over them to make their top surfaces pop a little when the light catches them, but I still spent more time painting their bases than I did anything else. Speaking of which, looks like I need to touch that one up a bit!

They look fine when I activate their 90s action feature!



I also finished up a skeletal cleric and champion to hang out with my other skellies.



Turns out the yellow-over-pink technique works with hand brushing, too! The effect isn't as strong as it would be out of an airbrush, but I don't own an airbrush. Painting pink, drybrushing and highlighting with white, and then painting a thin yellow over the top still gets a good affect with a single coat (!) of yellow.



They look pretty nice as a group!




JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

JackMann posted:

Poll up!

You can select multiple options. I plan on getting up to $100 worth of stuff. If the top option is $50, and the next two are $20, then I'll be getting the top three options. If the top option is $95, then I'll just be getting that. Have at it!

So, two things.

First off, my deployment got cancelled. There's a small possibility I'll get sent out again at the end of the month, but for now I'm staying home.

That said, I hyped this up enough that I'm going to stick to it. It's looking like Thousand Sons Start Collecting was the winner, so I'll be picking that up in the near future.

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
Are AoS skeletons easy to do? I thought about getting the Start Collecting Skeleton Horde box, since I thought to do something a bit easier with the next set of models I buy. I figured with the Skeleton Horde contrast, you could paint them without a lot of fuss.

The only mini I was sort of worried about (albeit the one model I really want) is Arkhan the Black, although the only part that looks difficult is doing all of Arkhan's armor.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Scandalous posted:

Warpstone Glow Sucks

Treat it like a metallic. Put down a layer of Waaagh Flesh first. :ssh:

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

w00tmonger posted:

I have a brown texture paint (typhoid). Should cover the whole thing or just use it sparingly? Will this remove any of the underlying metal/washes?

Sparingly! You’re looking for the kind of texture rust builds up as it starts to flake and bubble - I usually put the texture paint on first before anything else and then colour up from there. I tend to use enough to just break up the silhouette a little. Out at the mo but will take some pics to show you when I get back.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

The Sisko posted:

X post from the Hams for Hunger thread


This is the first mini in a long time I'm genuinely proud of how it came out.

Can I ask what tones you used for the skin? I'm trying to gather techniques on how to paint non-Caucasian skin-tones and I really like that one. Fitting with the Samoa time-zone ;)

Torquemada
Oct 21, 2010

Drei Gläser

Max Wilco posted:

Are AoS skeletons easy to do? I thought about getting the Start Collecting Skeleton Horde box, since I thought to do something a bit easier with the next set of models I buy. I figured with the Skeleton Horde contrast, you could paint them without a lot of fuss.

The only mini I was sort of worried about (albeit the one model I really want) is Arkhan the Black, although the only part that looks difficult is doing all of Arkhan's armor.

You can bang them out quick if you’re using contrast paint, the black and bone types work very well.

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Torquemada posted:

You can bang them out quick if you’re using contrast paint, the black and bone types work very well.

Cool. I've already got Skeleton Horde contrast, so I think I might pick those up when I get the chance. Thanks for the feedback.

-

Another question (one I think I've asked before): what's a good brand of superglue to get for minis? I ask because previously I got Gorilla Glue, but I remember one of the Goonhammer guides saying that the issue with Gorilla Glue was that it expanded when it dried.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?
Plain ol' Gorilla Glue is a poor choice for miniature work on account of it expanding. Gorilla Super Glue on the other hand, has been my go-to for years and is what I use for pretty much any non-plastic model. It doesn't take much to glue stuff together and dries fairly quick, and can be found in most hardware stores.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


I managed to glue the cap of my super glue shut, please tell me I’m not the only person who’s a big enough dumbass to do that :smith:

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Gorilla Glue is fantastic for adhering metal figures to plastic bases, though - you can shave the excess off with a knife before finishing the base.

Iron Crowned
May 6, 2003

by Hand Knit
So I finally dusted off the bag of Hero Quest minis I bought at a thrift store in the 90's and stripped the previous owner's half-assed paint job. Biggest hurdle now is how to go about basing the things, which I'm currently at a loss for.

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KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


I decided against rebasing mine, and just bought some small magnets to stick in them.

I paint them to look similar to the tile squares on the HQ board.

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