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Colostomy Bag posted:Wouldn't overthink it much. Stainless is fine. Myself, I'd walk into the hardware store with the strut (to verify threads) and find black oxide ones. Beach Bum posted:Flange nuts, just so you're aware. I get mine at Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. Did KYB give any specifications for material? I've been saying it wrong the whole time. Thanks for correcting me on that. I just called it that because I saw some online seller call it that. That might explain why I haven't been able to find as many resellers for these nuts. KYB told me Grade 8 steel. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jun 9, 2020 23:00
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Nice fanny-pack utility belt, Batman. I would love to know if the picture is ironical or not. But this is getting way outside the thread topic :P The next car that that plate was registered to was a BMW M5 though.
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Jun 9, 2020 23:48
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You'll let me post questions about my riding lawnmower, right? It's got wheels and an engine? I've got a Craftsman YS4500 and I'm pretty sure my stator is shot but I want to be certain before I order one. I looked up some utubs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiLp_ooxqek) and it recommends checking the stator output from the blower housing. Problem is, I can't get a read. Here's the relevant side of my mower (I think), with the plug I detached and tested highlighted in yellow. (Second photo is a pulled back shot.)   I put my multimeter on the 10A ac setting, put the black plug in the COM port, and the red plug in the separate 10A port. I disconnected the wire indicated in the photo, and tried the multimeter leads against the plug coming out of the engine. No amount of jostling or repositioning will give me any reading whatsoever. I checked the fuse in the multimeter and that seems fine, so I don't believe that's the issue here. Any thoughts on why I can't get an amperage reading out of my lawnmower?
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Jun 10, 2020 00:38
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I mean, I know nothing about lawnmowers, but are they seriously AC?
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Jun 10, 2020 02:10
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I'm crosspoosting from a post I did in the GBS riot Thread. Any help from AI would be greatly appreciated.James Woods posted:We recently found out one of our friends was run over by a driver who broke through the crowd at the protests in Oakland on May 30th. She is currently in critical condition and may never walk again.
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Jun 10, 2020 02:13
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That is 100% a 1998-2002 Honda Accord. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Accord_(sixth_generation)#Americas,_Australia,_New_Zealand_and_Southeast_Asia
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Jun 10, 2020 02:15
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Agreed on the Accord. Those aren't stock wheels, could help identify them. God bless
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Jun 10, 2020 02:29
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Krakkles posted:That is 100% a 1998-2002 Honda Accord. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Accord_(sixth_generation)#Americas,_Australia,_New_Zealand_and_Southeast_Asia Thank you very much. That's it for sure.
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Jun 10, 2020 02:33
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Mods are weird
Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 02:49
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So, I tried to bring the remaining nasty old brake fluid to Auto Zone, was told they only take motor oil and tranny fluid. What the hell? I thought if they sold it to you, they had to take the used stuff back. Wouldn't take my old rotors, either, and those have scrap value. I guess I just leave it in my basement forever?
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Jun 10, 2020 13:23
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Look into your city's trash website. They'll usually have a recycling center or a place that takes used chemicals, including brake fluid. You may have to pay a fee, and you'll probably have to show an ID and a utility bill when you take it to the dump or wherever they want you to take it. But parts stores do not take brake fluid. Generally only oil and ATF. And they get pissy if you bring milkshake oil. Krakkles posted:That is 100% a 1998-2002 Honda Accord. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Accord_(sixth_generation)#Americas,_Australia,_New_Zealand_and_Southeast_Asia To be more specific, it's likely an EX or EX-L model. It has the alloy wheels from an EX, but they've been plastidipped or painted (likely dipped based on the big chunk missing from the LR wheel). Looks like they might be 5 lug even, which would make it a V6 model. fake edit: oh, it has a (stock) muffler on the driver's side. Definitely a V6 (they got factory "dual" exhaust; the 4 cylinders had a single muffler on the passenger side). The most common 98-02 Accord was the LX 4 cylinder, which had hubcaps. Those are 100% stock alloys for an EX and EX-L, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's an EX (they could have been swapped over; the 98 was the first model year where you could get an LX with the V6, but it'd still be 5 lug). Charles posted:Agreed on the Accord. Those aren't stock wheels, could help identify them. God bless Those are stock 98-02 EX wheels, just painted or dipped. That big chunk peeled off of the LR wheel would be even more helpful in identifying them, if they don't immediately strip all 4 wheels (if plastidip is left on long enough, it doesn't come off without a fight...). meatpimp posted:2000 Toyota Avalon -- my son's car, he's dragging rear end on getting his license, so it's sitting a lot. Isn't the lighter on those on switched power? I know mom's 03 Avalon wouldn't let you use the lock button on the fob (or even lock the doors from the driver's door with it open) if the key was in accessory or run. I'm guessing it's backfeeding the accessory circuit enough that the BCM thinks the key is in the ignition. Also, if it is switched, you're not actually charging the battery at all, just trying to power up the radio. Which probably isn't too happy with you about now. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 15:14
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Squashy Nipples posted:So, I tried to bring the remaining nasty old brake fluid to Auto Zone, was told they only take motor oil and tranny fluid. What the hell? I thought if they sold it to you, they had to take the used stuff back. Wouldn't take my old rotors, either, and those have scrap value. Just leave it outside the store after close. They’ll dispose of it the next day. It’s technically hydraulic fluid, so they should take it anyway.
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Jun 10, 2020 21:26
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Don't do that, thats a thing assholes do. Call whoever handles your local dump and find out where they accept it. If you dump it in the parts store oil collection bin and the collection company tests it then discover contamination, they get slapped with a big fine which winds up in their corporate guys making GBS threads on them. Just do the responsible thing and dispose of your automotive fluids. And don't get pissy at the guy behind the counter when they say they won't take it. That poo poo was old the first time someone pulled it on me.
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Jun 11, 2020 03:15
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Fwiw, I work at an auto parts store and management has a book for how to dispose of any and all fluids in an environmental manner. Whoever was working at that store just didn't want to do the paperwork.
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Jun 11, 2020 03:34
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Krime posted:Can you take non OEM parts (rotors and brake pads) and have a dealer (VW) install them? My VW dealer was OK with that, but no warranty on parts or labor. I’d give them a call and ask. Otherwise, an independent shop almost surely would. No warranty there either.
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Jun 11, 2020 04:34
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At least in my town we have household hazardous waste day every few months. My local parts store will accept oil or coolant if not mixed. If they're mixed I bring it to hazmat day, they have a drum for mixed oil and coolant. They don't care if I mix trans fluid, gear oil, power steering fluid, etc into the oil though since they're all oil based. Brake fluid is generally glycol based not mineral or synthetic oil, so it's not really the same as hydraulic fluid, at least oil base hydraulic fluids. It's closer to coolant chemically speaking.
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Jun 11, 2020 05:03
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melon cat posted:Oh okay. I just thought that that stainless had to be of a certain type/grade. Yeah ACE/HD/Lowes have had grade 8 in the size needed when I've looked, should be good to go.
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Jun 11, 2020 08:06
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I had the serpentine belt replaced on my 2014 Honda Civic in January. Around February, I started noticing my engine making some growling sounds when I push down on the pedal. Early March, I took it into a dealership garage to have it looked at, but I guess the engine was too warmed up as it didn't make the sound. I told them about the new serpentine belt, but they couldn't see anything wrong with it at the time. The mechanic told me it could be my serpentine belt not fitting correctly, and that I should leave the car overnight so that they can hear the sound. I was planning to do that the week after as I had to use my car to commute to work that week, and I only have the one car. Of course, covid and quarantine hit, so I never went back. I WFH now, and only drive the car once a week to get groceries, but it's still making the sound. I was thinking of taking the car into the shop for overnight in late July or August when I have a better sense of how the reopenings are going. My question is can this issue wait until then or is this something that I should be looking to get fixed ASAP?
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Jun 12, 2020 00:38
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drainpipe posted:I had the serpentine belt replaced on my 2014 Honda Civic in January. Around February, I started noticing my engine making some growling sounds when I push down on the pedal. Early March, I took it into a dealership garage to have it looked at, but I guess the engine was too warmed up as it didn't make the sound. I told them about the new serpentine belt, but they couldn't see anything wrong with it at the time. The mechanic told me it could be my serpentine belt not fitting correctly, and that I should leave the car overnight so that they can hear the sound. I’m no expert, but it sounds like a mis-installed belt or worn bearing somewhere in the belt drive. If you let it go too long I fear you could end up with a shredded belt or pulley that’s exploded. With that, I’d take it in when you can. A lot of places around here are doing contactless service, so it be done relatively safely too. Alternatively, you could double check your belt routing and check for any pulleys making a similar noise when you turn them by hand. Then repair and replace as needed. If you post a recording we might be able to narrow it down further.
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Jun 12, 2020 03:06
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Situation: Tiny camper with blown out leaf springs (like they are basically flat or upside down at this point and riding super close to the bump stops) and presumably worn shocks.   Weight: I dunno...5000lb? 6000lb loaded with crap? Best approach to redo the rear suspension? Options I'm aware of: 1. Get new leaf spring packs. 2. Bolt helper springs onto the existing leafs. 3. Air bags on top of old leafs w/manual inflation 4. Air bags on top of old leafs w/automatic inflation 5. Replace worn shocks with combination shock/air spring. I feel like new leafs and new shocks are smartest for the long term? Or airbags are legit as heck? And helper springs are garbage? The combo shock/air spring sounds easy! French Canadian fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 04:18
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I would absolutely start with new springs before anything else. Though given your vehicle I'd be tempted to see what a local shop could fabricate versus costs for overnight parts from Japan.
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Jun 12, 2020 04:43
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Now is the time to put a bigass lift kit on it 
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Jun 12, 2020 04:44
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A little update from my above post. I forwarded the information provided by this thread to the family of the victim and they wanted me to share their thanks for your help. We're currently in the process of trying to get the CCTV footage from the area released to get a plate number but in the meantime her mother is asking me if there is any way I could track down registered vehicles of this type in the local area. This is a little outside my wheelhouse as a journalist but I told her I'd do my best. Does anyone have any resources for publicly available information? Do only law enforcement have access to this? Would having their lawyer contact anyone at DMV help?
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Jun 12, 2020 06:04
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At least in the US I believe that's a violation of the drivers privacy protection act of 94 so it's unlikely you'll get any info without the police being involved. The agencies you mentioned can do it but I don't believe they can tell you any of it.
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Jun 12, 2020 08:12
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kastein posted:At least in the US I believe that's a violation of the drivers privacy protection act of 94 so it's unlikely you'll get any info without the police being involved. The agencies you mentioned can do it but I don't believe they can tell you any of it. What you're saying is I need to get a side piece at the DMV like Che McBride did in Gone in 60 Seconds. Noted. In all seriousness I work (or used to work pre COVID) in vehicle restoration and I know that within the collector car community that people with rare vehicles are able to track how many of a certain vehicle type are registered in a given area. This likely wouldn't give you physical addresses but it would be a start. I told the mother of the victim when she suggested this that my options would be limited. I'm curious if I did the legwork if a lawyer could subpoena this information should I point them in the right direction. Again, this may be a fool's errand buy I'm just trying to do my best to help a grieving family. James Woods fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 09:11
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James Woods posted:A little update from my above post. I forwarded the information provided by this thread to the family of the victim and they wanted me to share their thanks for your help. We're currently in the process of trying to get the CCTV footage from the area released to get a plate number but in the meantime her mother is asking me if there is any way I could track down registered vehicles of this type in the local area. This is a little outside my wheelhouse as a journalist but I told her I'd do my best. Does anyone have any resources for publicly available information? Do only law enforcement have access to this? Would having their lawyer contact anyone at DMV help? Driver's Privacy Protection Act or whatever legally prevents anyone without a subpoena or some such getting the kind of information you're looking for.
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Jun 12, 2020 09:34
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James Woods posted:A little update from my above post. I forwarded the information provided by this thread to the family of the victim and they wanted me to share their thanks for your help. We're currently in the process of trying to get the CCTV footage from the area released to get a plate number but in the meantime her mother is asking me if there is any way I could track down registered vehicles of this type in the local area. This is a little outside my wheelhouse as a journalist but I told her I'd do my best. Does anyone have any resources for publicly available information? Do only law enforcement have access to this? Would having their lawyer contact anyone at DMV help? Is there a way to search the database with personal info removed, under a Citizens' Right To Information or whatever similar law you have there? I'm thinking something like this: https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/about So could you request the number of registrations in a geographic area under freedom of information law stuff? even if there isn't a special website for it. (E: this may be a starting point? http://www2.oaklandnet.com/government/o/CityAdministration/d/PublicEthics/s/OpenGovernment/public-records/index.htm) The wording of the question should be concise, e.g. How many Honda Accord EX or EX-L, 3.0 V6, first registered between 1997-2003, are registered in Oakland/California/wherever, listed by county? If they have a lawyer already they'll probably put the question together better than I did. Maybe ask at a state level too not just Oakland. In fact ask any public body who may have that info, including the DMV if they'll provide a count and locality without names and addresses. Include everything you can, like engine size and trim information (if that gets held by local authorities for tax or whatever), assuming I read STR's post correctly. Sorry if I got it wrong or missed info out. That should narrow it down a bit - which could be important because there's a cost/time limit to the scale of enquiry that can be made where I live. Round here they'd be quite rare - old enough that most have been junked, not really old or special enough to be a popular classic. Yeah it won't give you a name and address but if it narrows it down, maybe that can open up some other avenues for investigation. And if you're going to the cops (I know... but make the paper trail that you asked) saying "there are 8 of these cars, 2 of which in xyz county which is nearest to us" then that's a more realistic thing to follow up than "idk how many there are but it's this kind of car". We all know stolen cars don't get looked for, they just get flagged for if they are noticed for other reasons. So hopefully if you find out there are only a few it might get past that hurdle. simplefish fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 10:44
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simplefish posted:Is there a way to search the database with personal info removed, under a Citizens' Right To Information or whatever similar law you have there? This is more or less the next the avenue I was planning to follow. Going in person to the Controller's Office to see what public records they would provide me and if I hit a stopgap sending in their lawyer to send a subpoena. At this point I'm just trying to do the legwork to save them legal fees so that that money can go to Lucie's medical bills. Thank you for the research. I'll see where it takes me. My main concern is that we'll find out that the plate conforms with one from the police impound. At that point I've opened up a big can of worms.
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Jun 12, 2020 14:28
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James Woods posted:My main concern is that we'll find out that the plate conforms with one from the police impound. At that point I've opened up a big can of worms. That point was a long time ago, though.
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Jun 12, 2020 17:48
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nitsuga posted:I’m no expert, but it sounds like a mis-installed belt or worn bearing somewhere in the belt drive. If you let it go too long I fear you could end up with a shredded belt or pulley that’s exploded. With that, I’d take it in when you can. A lot of places around here are doing contactless service, so it be done relatively safely too. I just tried to make a recording on my phone, but it's too soft to be picked up. It's also very intermittent. Ok, I think I'll try to make an appointment for next week then. Thanks!
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Jun 12, 2020 18:58
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2016 Subaru Outback - I've owned this car since new and it's had zero issues thus far, so I'd like to hang onto it as a paid-off reasonably fuel efficient daily driver. I parked under a tree at work one day and got peppered with artillery fungus, which leaves a stain even if you get it off quickly. A well-meaning soul then added to the damage by using a magic eraser-type sponge on the hood, which damaged the topcoat. I keep it clean and it's not really noticeable on the pearl white color, but I'd like to get the whole car painted eventually. What should I budget for a quality paint job for the whole car? I live in Virginia if it matters - nobody has a garage and they salt the hell out of the roads. E: I should also ask, is it even worth it to paint a car that's not "damaged" significantly egyptian rat race fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 20:59
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I bet a lot of that would come off with a claybar or buffing compound. Repainting a car well is several thousand dollars up to as much as you want to spend.
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Jun 12, 2020 21:10
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I bet a lot of that would come off with a claybar or buffing compound. Repainting a car well is several thousand dollars up to as much as you want to spend. The fungus is gone, but I think the "magic eraser" sponge damaged the paint. It's mainly on the hood, I was able to intervene before the whole car was done. There's little silver-dollar matte/scratched areas all over the glossy topcoat where it was rubbed to remove the fungus. I read it's roughly equivalent to 3000-grit sandpaper. Thanks, I'll check the youtubes for buffing/claybar work
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Jun 12, 2020 21:16
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Speaking of detailing. I have these tiny black specks of tree sap or something on my car. Anyone have a hot tip to get rid of them?
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Jun 12, 2020 21:18
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WD-40 and a fingernail but that presents it's own problems. I've used waterless car wash and a cloth with great success before.
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Jun 12, 2020 21:22
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spankmeister posted:Speaking of detailing. I have these tiny black specks of tree sap or something on my car. Anyone have a hot tip to get rid of them? I can tell you what not to use
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Jun 12, 2020 21:22
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spankmeister posted:Speaking of detailing. I have these tiny black specks of tree sap or something on my car. Anyone have a hot tip to get rid of them? If it's sticky tree sap, rubbing it with hand sanitizer seems to loosen it up due to being an alcohol gel. The sap I used this trick on was still semitransparent, though.
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Jun 13, 2020 00:11
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I have a 2011 chevy equinox lt 2.4l that I bought in december 2019, it has been in to the dealer under the used car warranty (and extended gm recall) 3 times to have timing chain and related components replaced (this time it was a piston and fuel pipe were replaced in addition to other parts i'd gladly list). It happened every 6 months on the dot. Now they've finally cashed out every dime of the used car warranty, and today, a day and a half after I picked it up, the engine light is on and OBDII readout is giving a PO420 error. No other errors exist. There is no weird smells, no leaks, and no odd noises coming from the vehicle. I ran it and monitored the voltage of the two o2 sensors and they both have a wildly fluctuating readout, but aren't really ever the same. The first one drops down to nearly zero. I have three questions, before I bring in the vehicle monday morning to the service department. 1) Is there any way I can find out if this is the O2 sensor with my rudimentary ability to look at an OBDII monitor, or is it just unquestioningly going to be a $1000 repair? 2) What are the odds that they screwed up the repair on the engine and this caused a leak into the CC which is causing or caused it to fail? Is there anyway I can argue or prove this? 3) Is there any remote chance I can get GM to get this rolled into the repairs that were done under the extended recall from last year. thanks for any advice or thoughts that you offer
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Jun 13, 2020 03:48
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A P0420 so quickly after that is overwhelmingly likely to be an exhaust leak or other repair-related issue. Bring it back. Don't accept it again until and unless they can get all of the I/M s set first so you don't end up with the same or similar problem again.
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Jun 13, 2020 15:19
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Motronic posted:A P0420 so quickly after that is overwhelmingly likely to be an exhaust leak or other repair-related issue. Bring it back. Don't accept it again until and unless they can get all of the I/M s set first so you don't end up with the same or similar problem again. ok thanks
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Jun 13, 2020 21:09
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