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TheMadMilkman posted:But it is hard to look out at the mountains and wonder why I’m not up exploring them. Dude - you need to. There are tons of places you can access without a serious off road car.
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Jun 11, 2020 21:11
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I can see with a little more seat time and reviewing these corners I can definitely find another second or two. As someone who has never had a HPDE I felt really good about myself. My years of racing RC sort of translated over to karting. High-end indoor kart tracks are cool. The only multi-level one I've ever done is Sarah Fisher's kart track in Speedway, IN, where they have a two-level roadcourse and a tiny little high-banked oval. Did that with my dad and brothers, and none of us could climb out of the kart on our own easily after the oval.
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Jun 11, 2020 21:13
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Once you have driven cars that require premium long enough you become numb to the regular v premium. Over the course of a fillup you are what - $5 more? In 2020 dollars that is nothing. That is the difference between using 4 squares of TP to wipe and 5 squares. Premium is 30% more than regular in my area, meaning a GX460's fuel costs over a year is equivalent to a truck that gets 12 MPG on regular, like a gas Ram 2500 or gas F-250. Here's my math:  I wouldn't blink at 300 HP if I was getting 20 MPG like in a Grand Cherokee with the Pentastar and ZF 8HP, and I wouldn't blink at 16 MPG for a V8 Grand Cherokee or a Silverado with the 6.2. I am blinking at that power figure, combined with those fuel costs. And it looks like there's no aftermarket solutions to get more power from a GX. I might still eat it because there's no obvious alternative to a GX. A 4Runner has better aftermarket support but the GX is a much nicer place to be. The Grand Cherokee has had okay reliability the last few years but it still doesn't hold a candle to a Toyota truck. I could go with a used domestic full-sized truck, but it feels a bit ridiculous to drive one daily. I'm not a fan of the last-gen GM full-sized SUVs, they aren't off-road oriented in the first place, and they are still beefy boys. Or I could eschew a truck altogether but I'm currently in the very early stages of a possible buying decision.
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Jun 11, 2020 21:58
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Somewhat Heroic posted:There are some pretty good arguments for buying the best version of the thing you want, but yeah an ICON suspension set would be sweet and mega $$$. Not everyone wants to buy a thing and rip it apart immediately. Also cool to have another Utah goon. I am in the south end of the valley bordering Utah Valley ICON suspension was a significant improvement on my 200 over the stock Toyota suspension which wasn’t great.
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Jun 13, 2020 03:00
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Blerr derrr derrr full effort post now that the truck is running and back on the road. During the header swap I crushed the heater Ts against the firewall while jacking the motor up for more room. gently caress it four seasons metal ones went in.  New OEM steering rack:  So my OEM transfer case crossmember was rotted out and I wanted better trans protection. I debated between the Slee full skid and Trail Tailor's stinger setup. The slee setup wanted to use only the frame bolts holes and rivnut into the frame and is heavier. I went with Trail Tailors stinger style skid crossmember because of the less weight and it uses the inner bolts on the frame bracket as well as the frame bolt holes itself.  Since I budgeted for two races that are cancelled this year, I kinda just started balling out on the truck since I can only hike and camp due to the 'rona. New smaller fridge to go along with the 86QT one I already have. 19QT alipicool. I'm going to build a sleeping platform and this one will be perfect for one or two people and sliding under the platform.  Back to the crossmember swap:  Old one came off and of the 8 bolts only one snapped off. Drill and tap and we're back in business. Crossmember was wasted:  Along with the transfer case mount:  Diff back from ARB install. Took six weeks:  Trail Tailor lateral link skids/armor:  Because I kinda need them:  Diff painted and ready for install:  Buddies came through and helped tie loose ends up to get the thing running and out the door:   Out the door for a warm up, leak check, and wash.  Alignment, only 1.6 degrees of toe off total. Not bad for eyeball.  Finally home:  New fogs in the mail with bulbs and pigtails, for whatever loving reason the wires were clipped under the truck. Just PO things.   Testing the fridge with the custom wire run. On the safest voltage setting it wont want to run on the group 31 main battery, I already have a jackery power box on order so will mostly use that and the truck wiring when running, second battery may or may not happen depending on how much I care.  Needed to get the ARB compressor mounted and was going to do a custom bracket out of scrap just welded to the body but I decided I didn't want to do custom stuff and reinvent the wheel so I just said gently caress it and got the Slee bracket.  All installed. The warn solenoid pack will be changed to a contactor solid state setup and moved near the battery to reduce a ton of space and utter loving nonsense wiring that came with the truck.  Already putting the thing to work, hauled a bunch of lumber and other bullshit, then today played frame machine:  Teammate bent the front end at snow drift. Main frame horns okay, but upper frame horns / fender supports were tweaked a bit. Spot welds torn where they are welded to the A pillar unibody area. Harbor freight tree saver and the winch line through a snatch block to slow the speed down so we're a bit more precise. For the critics, I didn't like using the soft shackle like that but for yanking thin sheet metal it was fine, I'd rig way differently if I were in the field but this was quick and dirty. The harbor freight tree saver is too thick to hit the snatch block with the arb d rings, need bigger ones.  Static lines to a chebby 2500 and a forklift to fully triangulate the thing.   Upper frame horn tugged out and fenders fit up alright, so just quick tugs on the rad support and some porta power massaging. Rest of the work is hammering around to get the headlights to fit and massage a bit more to fit the fender. Mostly done. 
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Jun 15, 2020 02:18
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 that was a serious effortpost. Your rehab on that thing is really inspiring. If I saw that level of rot and rust I would just resign to total destruction or sell it off at a huge financial loss. I can also tell that I have definitely got the land cruiser stockholm syndrome because seeing a brand new steering rack is like drool worthy. You are definitely levels above me as far as being a wrench is concerned. I have gotten way better since my first LX but some of the stuff you are tackling would just leave me opening my wallet and dropping it off to others.Friday night my youngest asked me if we were going camping and driving the Lexus in the dirt. He was disappointed when I said we weren't but told him we would go out on an adventure in the morning. We visited the tiniest and strangest mining town. I have some pics and video clips to share but I need to organize and edit them. For now here is a photo of my 
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Jun 15, 2020 16:37
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I feel like my "I added a Sherpa roof rack" post I came here to make pales in comparison to slow is fast's ridiculous post. Also, that go kart track looks amazing, I need to find something similar in LA. I installed my roof rack, and left the fairing touching the top of the roof (I figured that would minimize wind noise). It turns out that's a horrible idea, I had to drive to pick up a friend and once I got above 50mph it sounded like someone was beating on the roof. It was bad enough to make the rear view mirror unusable, but amazingly enough did not seem to have damaged the paint. I moved it up a bit and it worked out much better. 
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Jun 15, 2020 18:30
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
MomJeans420 posted:I feel like my "I added a Sherpa roof rack" post I came here to make pales in comparison to slow is fast's ridiculous post. Thanks guys, I've been wrenching for like 15 years now so it's all been years of rusty junk in New England, different platform, same rust. While this truck wasn't ideal, the price and mods it came with is why I got it and stuck with it, friend of a friend deal. You've got to start somewhere and there is nothing wrong with bolting bits onto a nice clean truck. I would have probably have gone on more adventures by now if I went that route.
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Jun 15, 2020 19:41
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MomJeans420 posted:I feel like my "I added a Sherpa roof rack" post I came here to make pales in comparison to slow is fast's ridiculous post. If your 150 is anything like my mates 120, having a wind deflector on the roof rack made a lovely low pressure zone below the rack that was literally sucking the sunroof out of the roof and dropping it. Made a hell of a noise!
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Jun 16, 2020 10:14
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I have a multitude of updates, including  camping with the entire family of 5 from this weekend. I have some pics to go through and edit, and other stuff so I will get around to writing that up.For now though I wanted to open the discussion on this auction that closed today on Bring a Trailer: 2000 LX470 (Modified) No reserve, sold for $21,500. With 5% buyers premium $22,575 Quick details: 309k Chassis Miles Shown Remanufactured 4.7L V8 4-Speed Automatic Transmission 2-Speed Transfer Case Golden Pearl over Ivory Leather 4.88:1 Front & Rear Differentials Old Man Emu 3" Lift 18" Level 8 Wheels w/ Mickey Thompson Tires Aftermarket Front and Rear Bumpers Doug Thorley Headers Custom Exhaust System White Knuckle Rock Sliders Gobi Roof Rack I get that this dude spent an absolute fortune building this thing, but he seriously used it as well. This is no show queen. It is just wild to me that someone would spend that much money on admittedly a well modified truck; but holy crap the miles. How many vehicles on the road even make it to 300K and still hold any amount of value? This is all to say I think this thing was way overpriced and the seller made out mint. Of course I am happy to see it go for a high price - I already have my own so I am not worried about inflated numbers.
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Jun 23, 2020 05:14
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Somewhat Heroic posted:. Of course I am happy to see it go for a high price - I already have my own so I am not worried about inflated numbers. Coming at it from the JDM Land Cruiser zone the prices over there have rocketed upward as well. 70 series KZ Prados, specifically, have doubled in price from last year. I think we might be seeing the rocket upward trajectory that I've been expecting for a while in anything Land Cruiser. I know we've already seen the "I know what I've got" take hold on 60d and 80s, now so it goes with the 100s and 120s, even the RHD JDM ones.
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Jun 23, 2020 09:08
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I do a lot of sailboat racing. In that instance I'd trust and want a soft shackle more than anything else. If it fails, its way less likely someone is maimed. e: especially because that looks like 3/8" dyneema? Jesus. Crunchy Black fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 12:12
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Crunchy Black posted:I do a lot of sailboat racing. In that instance I'd trust and want a soft shackle more than anything else. If it fails, its way less likely someone is maimed. You’d have to gently caress up spectacularly to have a proper steel shackle fail- because they’re all built for rigging for lifting, the safety margins are immense- I’ve seen testing done on calibrated machines that shows that 3.75 and 4.5T shackles break at around 37 and 45 tonnes. Generally if there’s a steel shackle flying around, it’s because whatever it was attached too failed, hence the importance of proper recovery points and not just the manufacturers shipping tie down points. I will say tho- this does NOT apply to Home Depot style cheap shackles. If it doesn’t have a working load limit stamped into it, it shouldn’t even be used on trailer chains...
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Jun 23, 2020 12:40
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KakerMix posted:Coming at it from the JDM Land Cruiser zone the prices over there have rocketed upward as well. 70 series KZ Prados, specifically, have doubled in price from last year. That is crazy. I think that prestige Japan cars that are imported are definitely going to be the commodity for the next ~ten years as we 25 year import law our way through the glory days of Glorious Nippon. My boss with the HJ61 checks JCD auctions a couple of times a week and nothing good has popped up at all that would get him to bite. He literally has zero money or storage issues. If something came along and he wanted it he would definitely buy it. With is 60 series he has put like 8K miles on it in a year which is pretty serious considering he lives two miles from work and has three other cars he can choose to drive each day. With the work and stuff he has put on it I wouldn't be surprised if it fetched some ridiculous number like $25K - and at some point we will be thinking "that was a bargain". He got it with almost exactly 100K miles (just under 160K kilometers). I finally am spending some time going through some DSLR photos and punching them up in light room. I recently bought a 5D Mk II and a 20-70 F4 L lens to try and up my game. It has been a good learning curve compared to my old crop sensor Rebel but I am trying. I can see this being better for the future but I am still a novice. Here are some photos from Lake Mountain. This was my first tepid trip out with the replacement transmission trying to build up my trust. I really like this one:   Potentially a good spot to come back for a little overnight camping. Would only take ~45 minutes to get there from my house.  Embiggen to see a noble deer. The kids were excited to see a critter in the wild like this. 
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Jun 24, 2020 05:54
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Somewhat Heroic posted:That is crazy. I think that prestige Japan cars that are imported are definitely going to be the commodity for the next ~ten years as we 25 year import law our way through the glory days of Glorious Nippon. My boss with the HJ61 checks JCD auctions a couple of times a week and nothing good has popped up at all that would get him to bite. He literally has zero money or storage issues. If something came along and he wanted it he would definitely buy it. With is 60 series he has put like 8K miles on it in a year which is pretty serious considering he lives two miles from work and has three other cars he can choose to drive each day. With the work and stuff he has put on it I wouldn't be surprised if it fetched some ridiculous number like $25K - and at some point we will be thinking "that was a bargain". He got it with almost exactly 100K miles (just under 160K kilometers). Your boss' 60 series Cruiser is now a 35k truck, easy. That's how far prices have gone up. Soon maybe yours will be too 
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Jun 24, 2020 05:58
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It’s million yen for poo poo now this has happened in a few weeks time. The wave will hit USA prices soon. My best bid who has 2 Prados is getting just BS messages I told him to raise the prices past 20. They are fantastic.
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Jun 24, 2020 08:14
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I have a multitude of updates, including I like that truck, and the "LRD" stickers made me chuckle, but yeah, $21.5K? Maybe partly because the engine was a newly installed reman? I hope they don't go up. I still want one.
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Jun 24, 2020 20:47
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LX 570 on 37s that managed to keep AHC functional - although it says he spent $28k in parts alone
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Jun 26, 2020 01:53
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Ferremit posted:Holy poo poo steering wheel stereo controls!!! Bit late but I swapped my wheel out for one from an Aurion, using the factory clock spring I was able to the get the wheel controls working.  Picked up a blank from Amayama for the right side becuase I hate useless buttons. Kontour fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jun 26, 2020 |
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Jun 26, 2020 14:37
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I want to grab a later wheel with buttons because my aftermarket head unit supports extra input.
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Jun 26, 2020 15:11
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Slow is Fast posted:I want to grab a later wheel with buttons because my aftermarket head unit supports extra input. Toyota used the same size shaft and spline count for a ton of vehicles in the mid 2000s, if you're looking you can pretty much use any wheel off a Camry/Corolla/Aurion (not sure if the US got those) up until I think about 2010 ish. Then you just need to add pins and wires each side of the clock spring.
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Jun 26, 2020 23:36
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There is a series of the hilux's that is identical to the 100 series wheel and came with audio controls in the wheels....
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Jun 27, 2020 03:57
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Kontour posted:Bit late but I swapped my wheel out for one from an Aurion, using the factory clock spring I was able to the get the wheel controls working. Love stuff like this, nice!
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Jun 27, 2020 06:11
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In the middle of a bit of an experiment with my 100: reducing noise. The GXL is pretty quiet already but on long trips the road noise makes my tinnitus play up so I thought I'd throw a bunch of $$ at it to see if I can make it even quieter. I've put aside 5 days to install all of this junk: Sound dampening, New spotlights, New stereo and a bunch of little things like an extra fuse/relay box. Been collecting parts for a bit and started with this pile of stuff to install:  Stripped the whole interior out and ended up with this:  While I was in there I figured I'd do the roof as well, took a good 5 hours and more prepsolve than a man should inhale to get the existing jute and glue off the roof. The noise reduction comes in two stages, an adhesive backed butyl to reduce resonance and a foam or vinyl top layer to decouple and block noise. Here's the roof done with stage one:  And stage two:  The floor was already pretty well covered with a bitchumen based deadener so I opted to just fill in the gaps:  Shampooed the carpets while they were out too. Tommorow I shoukd get the stage two stuff installed on the floor (it's different from the roof stage 2 as its non adhesive and has a vinyl backing, benefit also being that it doesn't absorb water as I've had issues with that and jute in the past) This is a slow job, I'd hate to pay someone to do it, I'm already at 20 hours and estimate another 10 to complete.
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Jun 27, 2020 13:28
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Holy crap, you are going all in! Really interested in seeing more in progress shots of this.
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Jun 28, 2020 05:34
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Jesus... I remember taking the roof liner out to fit my cargo barrier and swore never again. I was thinking bout doing more sound proofing in the 100... but then I put a roof rack on it, tonnes of barwork and big muddies on it, and now the road noise is so bad I just stuck a stonking stereo in it to drown it out. A week and a half without my 100 after the accident and I’m a very sad panda
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Jun 28, 2020 06:40
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taqueso posted:Holy crap, you are going all in! Really interested in seeing more in progress shots of this. This is kinda my dream build I guess, thought I might as well go all in since I plan to keep the vehicle forever. Feremit posted:I was thinking bout doing more sound proofing in the 100... I'll be curious to see if it makes that big of a difference, I've seen people do it to 100s before but they generally only do the first stage and leave it at that. Part of the reason is also because I'm going to be adding barwork and a RTT and want to reduce the noise from that too. Anyway, today I put in another 12 hours. First up was putting the second stage stuff down, it comes in sheets and you sort of have to form and cut it as you go, it's slow work, the two footwells took me 5 hours alone. The rest of the floor was pretty simple, just had to cut out holes for brackets. Also did the wheel arches with the same foam as the roof.  Tore the jute off the underside of the carpet and refitted. Went in easy, the test will be refitting all the trim.  Also put a cheap COB strip light on the roof console cause I hate having no dome light there. Turns out cold gal primer is a pretty good match for the plastic colour.  I didnt get an photos but the rest of the day was spent making a spot for an amp under the passenger seat. Had to hack up the carpet unfortunately, I have no idea why they used that stupid plastic stuff to make fake forms under the seats. I ended up making a sort of insert out of marine ply for the amp to screw into. I didn't want to drill into the floor plan, so I used the ply to make a shape that would sit in the weird shape of the floor pan and not move, chucked some heavy duty velcro under it to stop it moving up and and down. The amp will screw down directly into the ply and if I end up with water in the cab it should keep it dry too. Tomororow is running speaker wire, dampening doors and installing speakers. Hours in at the moment: 32
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Jun 28, 2020 12:04
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I just made straps out of 4mm alloy flat bar that span that cavity and fit into nutserts in the floor. I’m a little beyond cutting and drilling the body of this truck now after 10 years of ownership
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Jun 28, 2020 12:57
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Ferremit posted:I just made straps out of 4mm alloy flat bar that span that cavity and fit into nutserts in the floor. I’m a little beyond cutting and drilling the body of this truck now after 10 years of ownership Goddamn it that's a way better idea than my janky solution!
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Jun 28, 2020 13:20
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Today I got the doors done and the stereo in and working, another 13 hours all told. Doors were a bit of a pain as the vapor barrier adhesive is so old that it's almost impossible to get the plastic off without tearing it, so I opted to just use the speaker holes as access and had to do all the deadening with one hand. I used stage 1 on the door skin and then a product called acoustic liner on top of that. I just used two sheets per door, too much weight and too time consuming to cover the whole skin. Stage one as below  I have seen people cover the whole inner door in the stage one, but my previous ute had had that done and the door trim never really fit right after that. Speakers were pretty simple, just cut the factory ones out of the basket and screw the new ones into the wooden spacer. Before:  After:  I cut off and reused the foam gasket as well. Rear doors done:  Front doors were a bit more complex as I'm putting in splits and my model doesn't have tweeters as stock. I ordered some sail pods off a Sahara as they have provisions for tweeters. Had to get a bit creative as the Morel tweeters were a bit larger than the stock ones. I cut the sail panels out as shown:  And then had to resort to hot glue to mount the tweeters:  Not my best work but we'll see how it holds up on the corrogations. Front door woofers and crossover mounted:  Tweeter installed:  Tomorrow is refitting the seats and trim and finally a test drive!
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Jun 29, 2020 13:22
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It's done. 50hrs total work start to finish. Took it for a test drive anddddd........ no real noticable change. I did notice the wind noise off the snorkel and towing mirrors seemed louder, so I'm assuming theres some reduction going on but it's not a night and day difference. The stereo does sound a ton better and lining the doors has really helped with the bass, plus the roof will help with heat on hot days. Also having a waterproof underlay is nice for peace of mind. I've got a few hour drive tomorrow so I'll be if I notice anything different there as today was just a 15 minute test run but as this stage I'd say I haven't gained much over stock.
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Jun 30, 2020 07:32
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Kontour posted:It's done. 50hrs total work start to finish. Did you install any Mass Loaded Vinyl? A limp barrier is the only part of the system that will block out noise, sound deadener will do nothing to stop noise transmission by itself. When sound proofing a car it usually goes like this: -Sound deadener on flat panel areas to dampen vibrations. This is responsible for that nice thud when you close the door. Only needed on areas that are completely flat and have no beading/deformations and even then you only need to cover 1/4 to 1/3 of the area. You do not need to cover the entire panel -Decoupling layer to stop rattles and isolate exterior vibrations from the rest of the interior, usually a thin sheet of closed cell foam -Mass Loaded Vinyl is your sound barrier, it works really well because it's dense and limp. This layer must have as few gaps as possible to prevent sound leaks and must be decoupled from another hard surface -Acoustic insulation to help absorb high frequency sounds, usually Jute or Melamine foam This guy has all the information about products, installation and how to sound proof different areas: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
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Jun 30, 2020 21:16
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I've been using raamat for years and yeah, what the guy above said. http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%252dTo.html Okay did some other poo poo.  This junk for size while designing.  Left over wood and screws at the shop. Had to buy plywood for the top.  Some carpet.  And sleeping platform that lines up with the rear seats folded down.... done.  Truck is full of bullshit because the next day a buddy and I landed a tree felling job. We're looking to do some friends and family landscaping and arborist work and his folks had some trees they wanted taken care of. 90+ weather the fridge full of water put in work and I made it run off the jackery only to get a feel for how much draw. Three trees killed by vines that needed to come down. Friend would be taking the lumber for firewood. Not near any power lines or trees so it was good safe practice.  The first two were so trapped in vines they wouldn't drop cleanly.  so we got the skidder out.  Last one I dropped cleanly. I was a few degrees off of where I wanted it to go but I figured out immediately on the stump what was wrong with my cut to have it fall a little off of target. Good experience and practice.  I threw the 18s on with market place tires. I'm only 200 into this set of wheels and tires + paint.  Thumbsed up this 200 on the way home with a roof top tent and wild plates I've never seen before:  Grabbed the kayaks from my folks house:  I now cannot fit in my work parking garage and am WFH forever now. And today was at an old airfield exploring.  Front diff breather is extended, relay box bracket is in, just need to install the relay box and I'll have an 8 panel switch in cab. Couldn't find the airline that came with the ARB so I ordered some. of course I ordered 5mm instead of 6. Friend is grabbing me 6 from his work so locker should be plumbed soon. After that it's weld on the rear swing out and install and wire the rear light/chase bar and I'm mostly "done". Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jun 30, 2020 |
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Jun 30, 2020 23:43
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Did you install any Mass Loaded Vinyl? Yea, the second stage product is a combined foam and mass loaded vinyl, the whole floor pan is done with it. Acoustic foam on the doors and insulating foam on the roof and rear quarters/ wheel wells Kontour fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jul 1, 2020 |
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Jul 1, 2020 00:30
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Some thoughts after a few hours on the road today: the vehcile is definitely quiter, by how much it's difficult to say. I notice I can now hear the wind off the snorkel bracket which I previously couldn't, which makes sense as the windows are now the weak link noise wise. Also road surface makes a big difference, on a good road at 60kmh I would liken the ride to a luxury sedan in terms of noise on a bad road at 100kmh it's quite a bit noisier. Off road it's much quiter, much less rattle than previously on the corrogations. Engine noise is unchanged, which makes sense since the firewall is still stock. I also noticed much less ear fatigue than usual, so hopefully that helps my tinnitus. Was it worth 50 hours of labour? I guess it's subjective, for me, yes. Is there a night and day difference? No.
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Jul 1, 2020 10:57
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So I towed my rallycross car to and from an event the weekend before last with my 4Runner and when I got back I discovered an oil leak coming from the front drivers side. Pulled off the skid plate and noticed it was the transmission cooler lines that had rotted, and presumably the extra stress from towing caused a small leak to finally form. I've got the 1GR-FE with the sealed 4WD transmission, and obviously I'm going to replace that segment of line, but I figure I should do a full flush while I'm at it since it has like 160k miles on it and I'm going to be towing more with it. I looked around a bit and it's looking like my procedure is to do like 4 or 5 drain and fills while recording how much fluid comes out and ensuring I always add the same amount back, and running the engine for a minute or so in between each drain and fill to circulate the fluid through the lines, cooler, and torque converter. Then there is a overfill outlet that I pull out and drain once the fresh trans fluid is at operating temp? Is that about it? I've only done manual trans drain and fills which are pretty straightfoward. Bonus pics of the 4Runner putting in werk (we even tried out the sleeper seats, kinda uncomfortable but no worse than say, sleeping on a couch. Next time I think we'll add a sleeping bag pad to smooth it out and another pillow or two)    e: trans is the same A750F that was in the LX/GX470, Tacoma, Tundra, FJ, etc. e2: seeing in some places I should drop the pan and clean/replace the filter. I kinda feel like I should given the vehicles mileage and unknown service history, since I'll be towing. Anyone have experience with this job? hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jul 1, 2020 |
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Jul 1, 2020 21:46
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I have been on hiatus from posting between forums drama and being positively crushed with work it has left me little time to post. The exploring has still be happening though! It has been my only sense of relief from everything. This time I am going to show a little bit of the strangest place I have ever been. Ophir, Utah Population? According to the 2012 Census/Wikipedia it is 40. Look back 12 years and you are looking at numbers like 23 with a total of 10 households. Now it is sort of like an outdoor museum featuring historical buildings that were moved or relocated to their current resting places. These buildings were closed because of COVID-19 but there was still some neat stuff to walk around and see. Like many ghost towns in Utah this is what remains from mining sites. There was a fun little kind of park type setting you could sit down and have lunch that was decorated kind of peculiar. Like your grandpa and grandma that collected stuff and just never got rid of it even when it held a value of 0 to them. I took my three, along with my neighbors two kids that are friends with mine and we set off.  Part of the rando decorated picnic table spot.  Signs showing historical uses and mining information   Mud was encountered. This is how I coated my wheels sand beige.  one of many lizards we found that made the trip VERY exciting for the kids.  The town rests up a small canyon on the west side of the Oquirrh Mountains. This canyon had such incredible views as the back drop for this tiny little place.  Another place to rest and sit among the historic buildings. Seriously the view.  A place of learning. Teaching youths   Old wood.  A neat place to explore and a fun way to escape!
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Jul 1, 2020 23:05
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:4th gen 4Runner stuff I didn't have a leak in mine but I had our local place do a passive full fluid exchange from the radiator lines around 140k. Not sure if yours has ever been changed at 160k but definitely avoid the POWERFLUSH. You may need to do a full drop and and fill instead of an exchange to make sure you get the right volume. There's a procedure about warming to a specific temp and there are lots of good youtube videos on it (I did a lot of research and decided I would pass). With towing it might be worth having it all done with the pan drop anyway. Mine (freshly RIP  ) was a beach, dog and commuter truck so I wasn't as worried about the filter cleaning.
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Jul 3, 2020 02:27
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Bit annoyed, sunk the truck dicking off in mud yesterday. Completely high centered. Dragged out no problem. Get on the road and drive 30 minutes to meet friends and the mud shedded out the tires no harm no foul. Drive an hour and half home and as I'm driving I hear an intermittent WUB WUB on acceleration around 28-30mph. This morning I go to head north into the woods and its WUB WUB WUB anywhere from 15-30 miles an hour. Alright drive to the shop, get the front end in the air and inspect everything, clean out the brakes, clean and grease the driveline, etc. Drive around test circuit and its quiet. Drive friend to the store and wub wub at 10mph leaving a light. Drive home and nothing over a half hour except once over 30mph. On the highway also load each corner and hear more road noise, so I think I'm going to pull the hubs apart in the front, inspect, and repack the wheel bearings. Not sure what else it could be. Wanted to be in the woods this weekend, but instead I'm checking bits over because I want this 100% perfect and turn key.
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Jul 5, 2020 01:42
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 12:44 |
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LeeMajors posted:I didn't have a leak in mine but I had our local place do a passive full fluid exchange from the radiator lines around 140k. Not sure if yours has ever been changed at 160k but definitely avoid the POWERFLUSH. You may need to do a full drop and and fill instead of an exchange to make sure you get the right volume. There's a procedure about warming to a specific temp and there are lots of good youtube videos on it (I did a lot of research and decided I would pass). Yeah I'm thinking about just doing a drop, clean and fill, not sure I'm gonna flush. The way I was gonna do it was to empty and fill, run the engine and engage the torque converter to move that fluid too, then drain/fill/repeat until it's bright red. I've seen a bunch of stuff saying to avoid an actual real flush using an external pump with an older trans because it can dislodge gunk and put it in the transmission which will eventually break something. Not sure if that's some old wisdom or a myth or what. But I replaced the trans line today to stop the leak, will probably do the fluid change sometime this week if I can get some free time.
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Jul 7, 2020 03:04
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