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Never give up, never surrender.
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May 3, 2020 05:59
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Everybody saying Camry/Corolla has forgotten this is not Automotive Sanity that we're in.  Shine on, you crazy bastard. 
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May 3, 2020 13:39
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Insanity is fixing the same car over and over and hoping it's not going to break again  There comes a point in one's life when a dependable daily driver is important to your sanity, just because you can fix cars doesn't mean you have to.
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May 3, 2020 15:00
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Insanity is fixing the same car over and over and hoping it's not going to break again Using an old car for a DD works if you have like six different ones available. Then maybe one will be driveable on any given day while you're fixing the others.
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May 3, 2020 15:10
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Lol been there done that, had three and more than once they would all be broken at the same time  I don't know, I guess some people can keep going like that, I just got sick of working on cars because I had to. Wanting to is a different story.
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May 3, 2020 15:18
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Toyota MZ (auto) or Honda J (manual) swap it.
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May 3, 2020 21:44
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Left Ventricle posted:Now I would like everyone to give a big warm welcome to the newest member of my shitbox fleet: hahaha nice, you're That Neighbor. Not being rude, I've been That Neighbor most of my life. 
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May 13, 2020 04:37
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I would do naughty things to have THAT NEIGHBOR vs my current ones in the next duplex. They're nice enough when you talk to them, but their aggressive dog is always off-leash, and they're always having parties (even during quarantine). I don't care until their dog tries to take a bite out of my foot yet again, they keep the parties pretty quiet. But a pit bull charging you (btw, I love most pitties), cornering you, then trying to rip your foot apart until you whack him on the face with a bag full of cat poo poo that you were already taking to the garbage... not cool. Upside is they have cheap  , if I wanna start smoking again. Pretty classic gangbangers to be honest, but w/e, I grew up around that anyway. They seem to respect me for just simply saying "hey what's up" and asking about their dog a bit when I walk out, instead of my roommate's "gently caress YOUR DOG HE'S OFF LEASH AGAIN". Roommate doesn't get dogs, EVERY dog in the world is gonna chase you if you take off running! Just stand your ground, bop it across the face with a bag full of cat poo poo, and the dog goes "WTF YOU BOOPED ME WITH poo poo" and chills out a little.Dude on the other side of the duplex (shared wall) is cool as gently caress, but doesn't know a whole lot about cars. Also we each only have a 1 car garage, 1 parking space in front (shared 2 car wide driveway, 2 cars deep, plus garage... so up to 3 small cars per driveway if you use the garage), and because of how badly my car pisses itself, I park in the street so I don't get yelled at by the landlord.  The neighborhood is very much a "park on the lawn because we have 8 people in a 2 bedroom duplex" type of neighborhood. The same person owns about half of the street, it's all 70s duplexes that are identical. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:31 on May 13, 2020 |
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May 13, 2020 19:19
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Anti-archive post. Lots of nonsense has been occurring. Cliff's notes: —Bought a truck for $500, working AC, bad knock. Drove it for three days, it popped. Probably broke the crank; starter spins freely. —Wagon making a noise from the transmission. Two of three torque converter bolts have hosed off. Remaining bolt was on its way out the door, and has wallowed the hole in the flexplate. Need to replace the flexplate. —Yellow sedan needs driver's side axle replaced. Clamp on inner boot gone, grease flung everywhere. Due to ruined transmission mounts. I'm in triage mode here. I will be spending next weekend under the sedan. It's me, I am the previous owner. Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 17, 2020 04:56
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What was the truck?
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Jun 17, 2020 04:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What was the truck? 08 Ram V6/4 speed. $5000 truck (with a non-broken engine). Hard to pass up. On mobile, can't post images right now.
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Jun 17, 2020 05:01
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Looks like a longblock is 3k on rockauto. Hopefully you can find a good one in the picknpull, but don't really count on it... those 3.7s are famous for exploding. Usually they drop a valve seat and turn the whole rotating assembly into confetti, from what I've seen. It's too bad you can't use anything earlier than 07 (according to RA anyways) as a donor because at least crappy beater Jeep Liberties are everywhere and no one would ever cry about sacrificing one for its engine.
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Jun 17, 2020 05:09
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kastein posted:Looks like a longblock is 3k on rockauto. Hopefully you can find a good one in the picknpull, but don't really count on it... those 3.7s are famous for exploding. Usually they drop a valve seat and turn the whole rotating assembly into confetti, from what I've seen. It's too bad you can't use anything earlier than 07 (according to RA anyways) as a donor because at least crappy beater Jeep Liberties are everywhere and no one would ever cry about sacrificing one for its engine. Probably a difference with the reluctor wheels on the crank/cams. The one on the crank is buried in the middle of the fucker. I've rebuilt 4.7s and they are absolutely not worth the hassle. Try LKQ too, I've had good luck with the guys in NLV.
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Jun 17, 2020 05:15
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That was my guess too. The easy way to tell which reluctor wheel it has is to count the connectors on the ECU in the donor and recipient. 3? You need a 3 plug donor. 4? 4 plug donor. At least according to the best info available last time I looked into it.
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Jun 17, 2020 05:28
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I heard the heads on those suck, drat I'm sorry. Honestly, get a Toyota?
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Jun 17, 2020 23:11
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I mean, a $500 truck that's normally worth $5k is very much worth fixing, despite the engine being garbage. Compared to George's swap, even if George's swap had been a stock for stock swap, this should be a piece of cake. I'd go with a junkyard motor over a Rockauto reman though... more because the shipping on a long block from Rockauto is going to be  if you don't have a commercial address with a dock for delivery. I assume it'd be on a pallet and shipped as LTL though?
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Jun 29, 2020 10:07
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All right. So. It's been a patchy few weeks recently. Summer has arrived in Las Vegas yet again, and with it, the ignition troubles I experienced last summer with the yellow sedan. 40-45 minutes of perfectly normal driving, stall, no/terrible restart. Takes three hours for it to return to normal. I've changed the coils and ignition module to no avail, which just leaves the crank position sensor. This being a batch fire engine, there is only one crank sensor with no redundancy, so when the CKP fails, the party is over right now. The Buick CKP is behind the balancer on an adjustable bracket which I will not gently caress with, so I'm going to have to hire someone to do it for me. There's also the failing starter to consider. And the ruined transmission mounts, which have broken the clamp off the inner CV boot on the driver's side axle. This car is a pile of miserable deferred maintenance. And the wagon. After the adventure a couple months ago of having to order a new external crank trigger from a dude in Canada, it started making some unusual noises from the transmission. It wasn't internal, that much was for sure.  Here we have one (1) torque converter bolt. This car uses three (3) of them to secure the converter to the flexplate. I found this one in the driveway. Those with a keen eye will note the absolutely munged threads. Past Left Ventricle was an entire clown and did not put thread locker on these bolts when installing the rebuilt transmission last time. So now the holes in the flexplate are wallowed out. Which means I will have to replace the flexplate. Which means the drivetrain has to come out. Again. At least I have a kitty to comfort me.  So I should probably address at least SOMETHING on the yellow sedan, right? The transmission is a sloppy bitch, so let's service it. Need some shade to do that though. Garage is brimming with automotive garbage.   And also non-automotive stockpiling. I accept no shame for this. I have five (5) women in this house.  Tight quarters.  Cavalier needed to move out of the way. The key I had made at the dealer (computer cut based on VIN) did not open the passenger door, but did open the trunk.  So I used the jack to slide the rear over enough to open the driver's door.Much better.   Shady.   Car sat for a while. I don't know.  Twenty goddamn bolts later... I was a smart fellow though, and bought a Dorman trans pan with a drain plug. No mess this time! The magnet was fairly hairy, but the fluid wasn't orange like last time. Refilled with 4 quarts of fluid and 4 bottles of Lucas. The Lucas doesn't seem to have helped the awful 1-2 shift. >   Then there's this guy.  Everyone, say hello to the latest addition to my ever-growing fleet of trash heaps. This is a 2008 Dodge Ram, regular cab, short bed. 3.7L V6 and 42RE. Through and through work truck. My stepfather owns a metal shop. He bought this truck new (5 miles!) for his field foreman to use. It cost me $500, because the engine was knocking HARD. I drove it for a couple days, then it popped on the way to work. Had to drag it back. Now, a $500 truck that books at $5000 is definitely worth resurrecting, yeah? So that's what I'm going to do. To that end, I hit up these guys:  Who sold me a 0 mile rebuild for $1750. Much better value than the used engines I was seeing for $1200. They wanted me to bring them the intake manifold from the dead engine, so they could clean it. Part of the warranty, you know. Just in case some bits from the broken crank made their way to the top end somehow. Clean intake at no cost? Sure. Tear it off. Hose.  Silencer.  Throttle body. On this one, it's electronic.  Coils. This engine is coil on plug.  This bolt (and the corresponding one on the other corner) kinda sucked.  Enlisted my brother to do the 9+ hour round trip drive with his truck to pick up the engine. (04 crew cab, 5.3)  Very clean intake, new engine, and new gaskets for the timing cover, intake, valve covers, and oil pan. It has upgraded valve seats or whatever it is fails on these engines, 0.020 over pistons and 0.010 over rods. Only adds 3 cubic inches.  Here is the plan, such as it is: My father will be here on Thursday and staying for 8 days to assist me with as much as possible regarding the engine replacement on the Ram. The Cavalier and gold wagon are junk (Cav has oil in the coolant  , Project Donut Shop is cancelled), and will go away as soon as I can get the title for the Cav transferred. Maybe at some point I will also do the starter?What new parts should I purchase for the truck engine? I know I will have to transfer over many things, since this is a long block, like the cam covers, timing cover, oil pan, intake manifold, flexplate and such. Since the old engine broke, I should probably get a new oil pickup, ya? And how do y'all feel about the balancer? Looking for insight. I've never done a long block before. (The LX9 was complete.) Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jun 30, 2020 |
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Jun 30, 2020 23:48
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Left Ventricle posted:They wanted me to bring them the intake manifold from the dead engine, so they could clean it. Part of the warranty, you know. Just in case some bits from the broken crank made their way to the top end somehow. Clean intake at no cost? Sure. Tear it off. That's actually not surprising. The typical failure mode for the 3.7 V6 and 4.7 V8 is to drop one or more valveseats, which makes everything go chunky and often throws bits back into the intake manifold. Being a complex piece of plastic it's easy for something to hide out in there. Regarding your new parts list, I think you might be right on a new oil pump pickup since those should be cheap-ish. Harmonic balancer should be easy to do in the truck so I would reuse it unless it's obviously hosed in some manner.
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Jul 1, 2020 00:45
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Don't gently caress with Lucas stuff, next time try some Lubegard. poo poo is nearly magic. Oriellys has it, as do NAPA.
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Jul 1, 2020 11:08
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Good news lads! Engine out of the truck. Only broke the dipstick. Also couldn't detach the torque converter because the crank is locked up. Does anyone know if Jeep headers work in a Ram?  Also, it appears that at some point between the engine popping and me removing it, coolant leaked into the crankcase. This became known to me when I pulled the crank position sensor and oil gushed out. The CKP should be well below the oil level, right? Also, that's weird, only a few cups of water came out of the radiator. Oh, there it is, streaming out of the oil drain. Combined, about 4 gallons of oil/coolant came out. Must have had a blown head gasket? Bad news lads! I'm an absolutely clumsy loving clown who probably shouldn't be allowed near a car again. So as I said in an earlier post, I am having issues with the torque converter bolts. Or bolt, as it were. The issue being, the last one of three that's still present is backing out. Since the yellow sedan is, uh, inconsistent during the summer, keeping George on the road is a priority, so I've been tightening the one bolt daily. On Thursday, this all went wrong. I did not position the jack correctly, and the car fell off the jack. Damage report: —Snapped off the fan shroud. No big, just a trip to the yard. —Snapped the oil pressure sender in half. A little more concerning, but since it didn't damage the block, and the computer doesn't seem to care, I am less worried than I am about... —Snapped the solenoid off the starter. Slightly bigger problem. Just loving destroyed it.        On the bright side, I've been meaning to change the starter anyway, since it sometimes hangs up in the way a failing starter does. I wanted to upgrade to a high torque unit for, say, the Malibu the engine came from, but there was something like a $70 price difference, so I just went with a stock replacement. Having the starter out also meant I could access the flexplate and replace the lost torque converter bolts. WITH THREAD LOCKER THIS TIME YOU rear end in a top hat. All's well that ends well, as they say. QUICK EDIT: Which direction should I spin the fan to remove it? Is it reverse thread? Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Jul 11, 2020 |
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Jul 11, 2020 20:02
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The fan on the Dodge engine? Should be a standard right hand thread that you have to spin left to remove, it just takes a lot of impact to get it to move.
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Jul 11, 2020 21:57
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Finally chased down this goddamn misfire in the wagon. Parts replaced: -7x crank sensor -Ignition module -ignition coils -spark plug wires -spark plugs Basically the whole ignition system...except #6 plug. It's cross threaded. Past Left Ventricle jammed that fucker in there without a care in the world. It will probably pull the threads out of the head, so I'll take it to a shop to have it helicoiled, eventually. trukk still not done. I'm apparently not big enough of a boy to pop the cooling fan free of the water pump. It's on there but good.
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Jul 31, 2020 04:22
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I can't vouch for the seller or quality but this kind of setup works wonders on those stupid threaded on fan clutches, which is what you're up against I assume. https://www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Clutch-LIS43430-Industrial-Products/dp/B08BKV7LLL/ Usually one rip on the air chisel pops it free and it comes off by hand after that. You could get crafty and build the same thing yourself of course if you don't mind welding some junk to your tools. I used the poor man's method on mine in the junkyard, you put a box wrench of the right size on it, make sure the belt is tight, then get angry and whack the far end of the wrench solidly with a hammer. May need to balance another wrench on it through the fan and hold the butt end up with one hand while hammering the middle of the second wrench if there's no clearance to hit the first one directly. I hate those fans, mostly because I haven't bought the pneumatic tool for them myself yet, just seen how easily friends get them off with it.
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Jul 31, 2020 04:52
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I bought the gearwrench pin wrench that gives you a proper grip on the pulley. One hand on that, the other on a pipe extension on a crescent wrench, and squeeze. Without either that or one of the impact tools, you're not going to get it off.
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Jul 31, 2020 05:13
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i was able to get mine off with a wrench and no fancy special tool, but i dont remember exactly what combination of stuff did it. i think i wrapped the water pump pulley with a dead fan belt, and vise gripped it to the frame or something? or maybe wedged a piece of wood wrapped with dead belt between the water pump pulley and crank pulley there was some combination of wrench on the big nut and old belt providing friction to the pulley, lol 
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Jul 31, 2020 09:37
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Raluek posted:i was able to get mine off with a wrench and no fancy special tool, but i dont remember exactly what combination of stuff did it. i think i wrapped the water pump pulley with a dead fan belt, and vise gripped it to the frame or something? or maybe wedged a piece of wood wrapped with dead belt between the water pump pulley and crank pulley IIRC, that's what I did on my truck. Protected the pulley with a piece of belt, and used a locking chain clamp to hold it.
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Jul 31, 2020 18:03
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This is the best thread.
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Aug 1, 2020 21:50
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:This is the best thread.  I do what I can to entertain in here.Trukk. Fan off. I just needed another big boy (brother) to hold the water pump pulley steady for me, and also a pipe on the wrench.   Action shot of me pulling the balancer.  P0131.  P0152.  All usable parts removed from core engine. Astute readers will note that the flexplate and torque converter are still attached. I could not find a way to get them removed, since it usually requires one to spin the engine over to pop the converter bolts. Problem is, it's locked up. I can only get it to turn a half revolution before it stops. Smashed big end will do that. New converter and flexplate were purchased. Might as well. Go big or go home, right?  New engine starting to look like an engine. Front cover and water pump reattached. The guys who built this splurged a bit and gave it what appears to be MLS head gaskets. Not that I'm complaining, but why?  Snag: This block appears to be newer. According to this photo, it's a 2011 block.  Bonus, right? Got a newer revision of the engine! Except two of the four mounting bosses for the engine mounts have different threads in them. Only the top two of the four accepted the bolts that came off the dead engine. Any Chrysler savants know what size they are, or do I just need to traipse over to the yard in the morning and snag a few from a newer engine?
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Aug 9, 2020 02:23
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Sweet progress so far! Could have dropped the crank out to reclaim the flexplate/converter. while the converter is out throw a new name-brand seal in. Might as well do the rubber lines while access is easy too.
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Aug 9, 2020 02:29
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cursedshitbox posted:Sweet progress so far! Could have dropped the crank out to reclaim the flexplate/converter.  ughWell, the builder is expecting the whole thing back in one piece. The converter + flexplate cost less than the core charge, so it's all good.
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Aug 9, 2020 02:44
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Triple check the crank and cam reluctor wheel patterns before you really button that thing up... They are different year over year and I've got a really bad feeling about this now that you said it's a newer block. Might just be mix n match parts from the builder but you don't want to do this twice I bet.
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Aug 9, 2020 13:13
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kastein posted:Triple check the crank and cam reluctor wheel patterns before you really button that thing up... They are different year over year and I've got a really bad feeling about this now that you said it's a newer block. Might just be mix n match parts from the builder but you don't want to do this twice I bet. I gave them the truck's VIN when I ordered it. They asked for it to make sure I got the right crank and cam stuff just for that reason. Thanks.
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Aug 9, 2020 16:40
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kastein posted:Triple check the crank and cam reluctor wheel patterns before you really button that thing up... They are different year over year and I've got a really bad feeling about this now that you said it's a newer block. Might just be mix n match parts from the builder but you don't want to do this twice I bet. There's just JTEC vs NGC there, right? I would sincerely hope JTEC was dead and gone by 08.
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Aug 9, 2020 16:42
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Left Ventricle posted:I gave them the truck's VIN when I ordered it. They asked for it to make sure I got the right crank and cam stuff just for that reason. Thanks. Dunno how relevant the truck's vin is if the block has a different one. Depends what you're looking for I guess.
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Aug 9, 2020 17:01
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Suburban Dad posted:Dunno how relevant the truck's vin is if the block has a different one. Depends what you're looking for I guess. So they could install the correct reluctors for each? Reluctors are attached to the crank and cams, not the block. It's apparently so wildly varying that not even model year is enough to determine if you have 16x or 32x. I tend to believe the guys who build hundreds of these engines every year.
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Aug 9, 2020 17:27
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Ah, assumed you meant to the parts store. Reading is hard.
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Aug 9, 2020 17:33
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Left Ventricle posted:I gave them the truck's VIN when I ordered it. They asked for it to make sure I got the right crank and cam stuff just for that reason. Thanks. Sorry to keep harping on it, I just see way too many people get screwed on that and didn't want it to happen to you. I entirely forgot this already got discussed :|
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Aug 9, 2020 18:27
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Seemingly minor update that had me stumped for a while. I could not bolt the engine mounts on to the new engine! There are four bosses for each mount. The top two bolts, both driver's and passenger's, went in just fine. The bottom bolts both sides would not go in even a single thread. I thought that, because the engine is a 2011, that maybe Chrysler gonna Chrysler and change the drat thread for some bean counter reason. Which is weird, since according to the dealer, Dodge used the same bolts on all gas engines from 1994 to present, M10 x 1.5 x 28. Turns out that the builder just had a bonehead moment and probably forgot to chase those holes to clean them out. So my brother came over and taught me how to chase threads. It's easy. You just have to be patient and not an ape wanting to just send the tap in like it's a bolt. Action shot:  Hurdle jumped. Last thing is, what is this?  On the old engine, there is a black plastic cover here. I don't see a way of removing it without destroying it. What is it called, so I know what to ask for at the parts house/dealer?
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Aug 23, 2020 02:26
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I'm not 100% sure but that's probably just an access cover for the timing chain guide bolts? You could try popping the old one out with a piece of lumber as a lever maybe?
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Aug 23, 2020 14:20
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| # ? May 15, 2024 20:39 |
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Yeah I'd probably go with inspection cover or that. They'll pull up a diagram and should be able to figure out what you're talking about.
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Aug 23, 2020 15:56
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