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tater_salad posted:I mean for 80 bux take care of it it might last another 5+ years.. switches and poo poo wear out.. I'd spend the 80 on it instead of 5-800 on a new one. If you're aching for a new one that's quiet etc.. go for a new one but you can probably hobble this one around for a bit. B-Nasty posted:As a counterargument, the newer ones are much quieter, much more energy/water efficient, and generally do a better job cleaning. The only cost you pay is that the cycle times are much longer than old models. Thanks for the advice, I ultimately realized the response I wanted to hear was 'Just get a new one' so that's what I ended up doing.
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Jun 18, 2020 22:51
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Blorange posted:Thanks for the advice, I ultimately realized the response I wanted to hear was 'Just get a new one' so that's what I ended up doing. Which Bosch did you get?
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Jun 18, 2020 22:55
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I am having my garage door replaced soon, and mainly am looking for something with good insulation and sealed (metal on both the inside and outside). I'm getting a new motor, springs, and railings at the same time. The door will be pretty simple: white, with one row of windows along the top. The guy I am having do the work has a few different suppliers he can order doors from:
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Jun 18, 2020 23:24
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Samadhi posted:I am having my garage door replaced soon, and mainly am looking for something with good insulation and sealed (metal on both the inside and outside). I'm getting a new motor, springs, and railings at the same time. The door will be pretty simple: white, with one row of windows along the top. Can you get one that is springless? Or does the insulation make it too heavy? Those springs are  scary.
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Jun 18, 2020 23:32
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H110Hawk posted:Can you get one that is springless? Or does the insulation make it too heavy? Those springs are Unsure! I had a spring break on the current door a few years back, but I wasn't around when it broke. I just noticed when the door would not open. I just assumed the new doors would have the same arrangement, but I coud be wrong.
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Jun 18, 2020 23:34
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Anyone know how to figure angles and stuff for gas struts? I was following a post here to add struts to my hood. https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-midget-forum.3/hydraulic-bonnet-and-trunk-lifts.1360738.1362261/#msg-1362261 I got the same 40lb ones and mounted them at the same spots the OP suggested, but I’ve got one side installed definitely doesn’t feel like it’s holding half the weight. I'd like to figure this out before I mount the other side.  My intuition is to move the top mounting bracket forward until it’s to a place where the strut is fully compressed when closed, but I don’t want to just drill a bunch of holes testing.
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Jun 18, 2020 23:35
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Samadhi posted:I am having my garage door replaced soon, and mainly am looking for something with good insulation and sealed (metal on both the inside and outside). I'm getting a new motor, springs, and railings at the same time. The door will be pretty simple: white, with one row of windows along the top. Are you super attached to metal for some reason? Fiberglass seems like a better option... it doesn't ding when something hits it. I doubt you'll see a huge difference door wise regardless of who you go with. I would suggest spending a little extra $ and going with a belt-drive opener. They're nearly silent as compared to the chain-drive ones. FWIW, if you're motivated it's not at all hard to install a garage door opener if there's already one there. When we had our door replaced they wanted $400 to install an opener... I bought a $200 belt drive one and installed it myself. There's nothing really scary about installing an opener.
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Jun 19, 2020 00:46
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devicenull posted:Are you super attached to metal for some reason? Fiberglass seems like a better option... it doesn't ding when something hits it. Sorry, when I said "metal on both sides" I was speaking in generalities, what I meant to say was "closed on both sides/a sealed door". I didn't consider fiberglass, though. How does the insulation rating compare to a comparable sealed aluminum unit? I will definitely ask about a belt driven opener.
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Jun 19, 2020 01:04
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okay so I've got a situation. The previous owners of our place tiled in the dishwasher with nice big saltillo tile. That old stainless steel dishwasher just gave up the ghost and there's no way to get the dishwasher out now. We either: 1) Break the tiles (don't want to do it) 2) Break the countertop (an option, but it will leave it ugly looking) 3) (this is the option I'm considering) deconstruct the dishwasher and remove it somehow. Since the dishwasher is broken anyway, I'm considering cutting it out with an angle grinder. From scale of 1-10 how bad of an idea is this? e: also we already confirmed there's no non-broken way to get it out. The feet are already down all the way
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Jun 19, 2020 04:41
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What are you doing with the new dishwasher?
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Jun 19, 2020 05:07
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El Mero Mero posted:Since the dishwasher is broken anyway, I'm considering cutting it out with an angle grinder. From scale of 1-10 how bad of an idea is this? You mean to say that the feet are retracted all of the way? Angle grinder throws out a lot of sparks. Just be prepared. Can you cut off the feet?
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Jun 19, 2020 05:10
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El Mero Mero posted:okay so I've got a situation. The previous owners of our place tiled in the dishwasher with nice big saltillo tile. That old stainless steel dishwasher just gave up the ghost and there's no way to get the dishwasher out now. We either: You gotta get the new one in there somehow. You should be prepared to cut something. Tile is the easiest to fix.
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Jun 19, 2020 05:23
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The new dishwasher is an ADA dishwasher that's sized appropriately for the space.
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Jun 19, 2020 05:33
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PainterofCrap posted:You mean to say that the feet are retracted all of the way? whoops. yeah retracted. I looked at that but the feet are retracted up into the base, so it doesn't look like cutting at the base would give me the space I'd need.
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Jun 19, 2020 05:34
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Sounds awesome, post a video
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Jun 19, 2020 10:24
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Dumb question, can different rebate forms along with the associated receipts be sent in the same envelope to Menards? (Assuming they have same PO Box). Googling sort of implies yes.
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Jun 19, 2020 10:37
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C-Bangin' it 
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H110Hawk posted:Which Bosch did you get? Hopefully the one with "dish fucker" mode.
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Jun 19, 2020 11:24
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Samadhi posted:Sorry, when I said "metal on both sides" I was speaking in generalities, what I meant to say was "closed on both sides/a sealed door". I didn't consider fiberglass, though. How does the insulation rating compare to a comparable sealed aluminum unit? You in a neighborhood with Nextdoor? While I despise social media it does give some good feedback on local contractors. FWIW that is how I found a local guy. $1200 out the door for a steel four panel insulated door installed. Dual springs. He said he hopes he doesn't see me for twenty years. One of those rare moments where in your gut you say to yourself "yeah, just take my money, don't need a second opinion."
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Jun 19, 2020 12:28
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wesleywillis posted:Hopefully the one with "dish fucker" mode. Heh. Had to go appliance shopping a few weeks back. Washer/dryer (gently caress Whirlpool) and the dishwasher a Kitchenaid which again gently caress Whirlpool. Thing wasn't cheap and I've replaced so much crap over the years it was time to see it go. Ended up with going with an LG dishwasher. I was flabbergasted how well it cleans. Good luck with the Bosch. It was between that and the LG. At the end of day I expect the control board to take a crap at day 366.
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Jun 19, 2020 12:44
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Colostomy Bag posted:You in a neighborhood with Nextdoor? While I despise social media it does give some good feedback on local contractors. FWIW that is how I found a local guy. $1200 out the door for a steel four panel insulated door installed. Dual springs. He said he hopes he doesn't see me for twenty years. One of those rare moments where in your gut you say to yourself "yeah, just take my money, don't need a second opinion." Nextdoor is cancer, but I already did my research and am going with a local guy that did my friend's door and is highly recommended.
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Jun 19, 2020 13:06
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Hi thread, is it possible to get a sanity check on my small reno? My house is a semi detached 1930s ex council house in London, UK. It is constructed from brick with a cavity wall, no fill. I'm redoing the flooring in my hallway, and as part of the poo poo discovery process I poked my screwdriver into an accessible bit of the wooden panelling and lower wall of my cloakroom toilet...and the panelling is rotten, and the mouldy wall made of 17 individually blown layers of plaster, render etc. The water damage seems to be in the distant past, I fixed a missing brick on the exterior skin on that wall when I moved in 7 years ago. I'm currently taking the room back to brick, and my plan is to dot and dab 50mm PIR insulated plasterboard, and build a stud wall at one end for the hidden cistern and soil stack, covered with some cheap gloss kitchen panels I picked up on ebay. The room is 0.8m wide (2 1/2ft) by 1.2m long (4ft). Is dot and dab ok for a amateur? It seems like a decent way to allow the walls to be plum and saves a load of drilling into brick for battens. Any prep other than SBR the brick? Is the stud wall going to be solid enough if there's not a solid fixing from the top crossmember into the ceiling? It is only plasterboard across the top, but I can run timber backwards at the top to join the back wall which is brick (internal wall). Both sides of the stud can be fixed to brick wall. I can demo the ceiling, but rather not have to. Thanks E: pic   [img]https://i.imgur.com/tKLbYcF.jpg[/url][/img]  
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Jun 19, 2020 13:54
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Is that the bathroom from Trainspotting?
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Jun 19, 2020 14:27
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IffyNewtz posted:E: pic First, congratulations on buying the set from The Conjuring 2. Second, IffyNewtz posted:Is dot and dab ok for a amateur? It seems like a decent way to allow the walls to be plum and saves a load of drilling into brick for battens. Yes, as done these days it's really just strategically placed blobs of plasterboard adhesive direct onto the brick. The only thing I'd think about it how you're planning to support the board in place (a few cm off the floor), keeping it plumb, level, and square, while the adhesive sets, as you won't be able to fix it after. The advantage of D&D is minimal prep, but the advantage of batten is you can correct mistakes as you go, so mounting the plasterboard becomes a fairly easy job. IffyNewtz posted:Any prep other than SBR the brick? Plasterboard adhesive is strong stuff, so I'd think you'd only need to stiff-brush the plaster dust off the bricks before going at it. IffyNewtz posted:Is the stud wall going to be solid enough if there's not a solid fixing from the top crossmember into the ceiling? It is only plasterboard across the top, but I can run timber backwards at the top to join the back wall which is brick (internal wall). Both sides of the stud can be fixed to brick wall. I can demo the ceiling, but rather not have to. Should be OK, but is there a particular reason you can't fix into the joists that the ceiling's plasterboard is fixed to?
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Jun 19, 2020 14:30
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dumb question, can different rebate forms along with the associated receipts be sent in the same envelope to Menards? (Assuming they have same PO Box). yes its fine
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Jun 19, 2020 15:06
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Is that the bathroom from Trainspotting? Jaded Burnout posted:First, congratulations on buying the set from The Conjuring 2. Yes  It’s a 2 and a half bedroom semi with garden and driveway, for the price of a 1 bed apartment...space not grace! I keep telling myself. It was local authority owned until the late 80s, so has a mix of 50 years worth of bodge jobs for the lowest possible cost, along with surprisingly well specced things like the windows and roof which being council are fully up to code and well installed, unlike many places around here. Jaded Burnout posted:
There are only 2 boards needed, so only need to joint and tape at the edges, and the corner. I’ve never done anything like this before so hope I’m capable! Was hoping to avoid battens because of limited floor area, but I guess the adhesive is about as thick... hmm maybe I’ll rethink this one. Jaded Burnout posted:
Jaded Burnout posted:
The ceiling is floating about 2 foot short of the joists, tied in to the walls. Reckon I should get rid and go full height? Todays progress: takes an age because of the wire lath. What a filthy, awful job.  I guess I repoint and fill the wall as I go with general purpose mortar? Thanks for the advice btw Toxoplasmid fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jun 19, 2020 |
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Jun 19, 2020 15:15
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dumb question, can different rebate forms along with the associated receipts be sent in the same envelope to Menards? (Assuming they have same PO Box). Absolutely. Just send a batch in when your oldest one is about to expire. They’re even pretty lax about expiration.
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Jun 19, 2020 15:50
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IffyNewtz posted:Plan is to prop it up on a length of wood I can then pull out. Board spec says to leave a 20mm gap all around to fill with foam, so I’ll make some spacers. Will use laser level to true up the boards. Sounds about as OK and prepared as I'd be! The laser level would be critical, I think, if doing it by yourself. IffyNewtz posted:The ceiling is floating about 2 foot short of the joists, tied in to the walls. Reckon I should get rid and go full height? If it were me I think tying in to the walls on either side would be OK but I don't have any personal experience fixing walls to things so I don't want to speak to suitability in someone else's home.
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Jun 19, 2020 19:42
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El Mero Mero posted:whoops. yeah retracted. I looked at that but the feet are retracted up into the base, so it doesn't look like cutting at the base would give me the space I'd need. Go ham with a Sawzall. What's the worst that could happen?
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Jun 20, 2020 00:37
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I would take the ceiling out for the extra height, will make the small room feel bigger and will be a small board to put up yourself on the joists. Pro Plasterers I have seen just use plasterboard offcuts for spacers at the bottom when dabbing. If you are mega concerned about losing cm boarding out you can use old fashioned bonding plaster but don't do this, there is a reason everyone uses boards now. Try and get the stud upto the ceiling if you are thinking of hanging a toilet off it! You probably don't need to go all the way back to brick under that window if you are boarding out provide you can get a good plumb run across the space, the dot and dab can cope with a decent amount of wavy wall due to the adhesive.
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Jun 20, 2020 00:53
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It's just totally wild the different ways every country approaches 'make house'
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Jun 20, 2020 15:47
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thread, I need advice. I have a basement. It's in an area that rains a lot. The basement and house were redone (complete teardown) a bit over 10 years ago. The basement has a french drain, sump pump, and dehumidifier. It also has some type of paint or sealing on the walls. Acrylic sealing? I don't know, it predates me. This sealing (I'm assuming it's sealing, I don't know) on the wall is showing its age. Here are the 4 worst pictures: cracking of the sealing with an air pocket behind it:  lots of little bubbles, some of which are popped:  more bubblets, one big popped bubble/area:  one big area with crumbly stuff exposed:  There are no cracks in the basement foundation itself or anything that gives me reason to believe the house is in bad shape or structurally unsound. In fact, most of the basement wall sealing is in pretty good shape. But clearly some of this sealing is losing its battle with mother nature. I spent a couple hours today scrubbing the walls with soapy water, to fight any possible mold (it turns out that I think most of the stains on the walls are just staining and salt deposits, etc., not mold). What should I do? Who would I even call? A masonry/foundation guy? A general contractor? A handyman who can redo acrylic sealing? Would the old sealing be entirely sanded/stripped down before putting the fresh sealing on, or would it more or less be straight up painted over the old sealing? I am not really a DIY guy and am unsure how to proceed. Thanks. pmchem fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Jun 20, 2020 |
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Jun 20, 2020 22:23
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I am not an expert on this topic, but is it possible that you're just seeing old paint that suffered substantially prior to the various anti-water-intrusion measures you mentioned getting installed? That is, do you have any evidence that there's actually anything wrong besides the paint being in bad shape?
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Jun 20, 2020 22:38
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In the UK at least companies that do that kind of basement conversion and tanking work provide at least 20 years guarantee. If you were the owner when the work was done call the person who did the work and tell them to fix it. If you weren't try and find out who did it and hope that you managed to take over the guarantee as part of the sale. Have you made sure that the leak isn't inside the house/condensation?
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Jun 20, 2020 22:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I am not an expert on this topic, but is it possible that you're just seeing old paint that suffered substantially prior to the various anti-water-intrusion measures you mentioned getting installed? That is, do you have any evidence that there's actually anything wrong besides the paint being in bad shape? No, no particular evidence. We only recently purchased the place, so I haven't seen how it changed over time. The general inspector noted there was moisture infiltration but only said that "we recommend that all exterior surface drainage, including water from the downspouts, be directed as far away from the building as possible. Watering landscaping should be minimized and controlled." It was no biggie to him, but, maybe he was incompetent. CancerCakes posted:In the UK at least companies that do that kind of basement conversion and tanking work provide at least 20 years guarantee. US, not UK, and I wasn't the owner at the time (nor was the previous owner the owner at the time). I'm sure there is no warranty/guarantee. The plumbing is solid; no reason to believe there is a leak inside the house. It's coming through the basement wall (common in this geographic area).
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Jun 20, 2020 22:46
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That is extremely common in stone basements. You need your walls parged and you should have a handful of companies in the area that do those jobs. The foundation itself is fine.
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Jun 20, 2020 23:41
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I’m actually about to redo my own which are in much worse shape. Gonna use an axe to break up all the loose stuff then trowel on a layer of waterproof mortar, then a layer of waterproofing paint after it cures.
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Jun 20, 2020 23:43
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I have small black ants infiltrating my house. As far as I can tell they're just walking underneath the baseboard trim, between it and the floor. There's only ever been a few at a time, and they don't really seem to be following any trails (or at least they do a lot of meandering). Aside from caulking all the cracks along the bottom edge of the baseboard in the rooms I've encountered them in, what are my options? I have a dog so I'm leery of using poison...at minimum it'd need to be something that I'd have high confidence he wouldn't find interesting enough to try to destroy.
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Jun 20, 2020 23:51
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The Dave posted:That is extremely common in stone basements. You need your walls parged and you should have a handful of companies in the area that do those jobs. The foundation itself is fine. The Dave posted:I’m actually about to redo my own which are in much worse shape. Gonna use an axe to break up all the loose stuff then trowel on a layer of waterproof mortar, then a layer of waterproofing paint after it cures. Thanks for the replies, I feel better now! I am going to have to google “parged ”, never even heard of that before and my iPad wants to autocorrect it to basically anything else. What type of companies perform this work (will any general ctr do it?) and what kind of estimate should I be looking at for an average size basement, roughly?
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Jun 21, 2020 00:05
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pmchem posted:thread, I need advice. I have a basement. It's in an area that rains a lot. The basement and house were redone (complete teardown) a bit over 10 years ago. The basement has a french drain, sump pump, and dehumidifier. It also has some type of paint or sealing on the walls. Acrylic sealing? I don't know, it predates me. I have dealt with this in homes in Philadelphia for the past 30-years. Homeowners file claims for this all of the time, but it's generally not covered unless it is a condition stemming from a covered loss (like a basement flood); but even then, it doesn't cause the kind of breakaway that you are experiencing. So I tell you what I tell my insureds: Based on your description, it appears that you have a rubble & mortar foundation, putting the house at somewhere over 90-years old. It may be brick. Unlikely to be concrete block/CMU. The foundation is structurally sound. You have groundwater penetrating the foundation and it is pushing the finish off of the stone. If you're seeing a lot of white, fluffy stuff popping out it's not mold, but calcium carbonate which has precipitated out of the old mortar, otherwise known as efflouresence. It is harmless, but a sign of groundwater penetration. There are two ways to deal with it. 1) Strip off all of the loose pargeting and start over. - re-pargeting the walls & re-painting. It'll look fabulous for a few years, until a few heavy rain events/a wet season will push moisture through & you will start over again with the flaking & bubbling. 2) Empty your basement; clear the walls; install furring strip at least 3" deep on the foundation walls (something that will resist moisture: galvanized steel stud; AZEK or other vinyl product; pressure-treated lumber). Insulate the walls with styrofoam; install mold-resistant sheetrock or wonderboard/hardiebacker; prime it with Kilz, and paint. You may elect to leave the insulation out & leave the cavity void to circulate some air in the gap - depends on how cold & damp it gets down there, but insulation will help prevent moisture from condensing on the walls if the basement gets cold. There is no cheap solution - except to live with it. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jun 21, 2020 |
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Jun 21, 2020 00:37
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PainterofCrap posted:It appears tht you have a rubble & mortar foundation, putting the house at somewhere over 90-years old. It may be brick. Great post, thanks. What would you do if it was your house? Is the foundation in danger if I re-parge or leave as-is? The house, before the tear down and reno, probably had a foundation dating to WW2 or so.
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Jun 21, 2020 00:43
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