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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

MetaJew posted:

At least three of the metal posts we share are leaning over. They were set with cement, but I'm not sure if the person who installed them didn't dig deep enough or what went wrong.

First question:
Can posts like this be dug up and straightened/reset? Is this a dumb idea?

Does it freeze where you are? How deep is the frost line?

Because right from the beginning this sounds like frost heave to me.

And how are you doing this work? You're not picking up a concrete set post unless you have a tractor/bobcat/miniex.

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Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


devmd01 posted:

hell yeah, the carpenter bee trap is working.



get the gently caress out of my fence post, bitches

Oh hell yeah, I need to build one of those.

e: how big is the hole in the jar?

Obsoletely Fabulous
May 6, 2008

Who are you, and why should I care?

MetaJew posted:

Haven't gotten any answers on my last fence-questions, but more fence questions:

The fence I share with my neighbor-- we have agreed that we'll DIY the replacement and split material costs.

At least three of the metal posts we share are leaning over. They were set with cement, but I'm not sure if the person who installed them didn't dig deep enough or what went wrong.

First question:
Can posts like this be dug up and straightened/reset? Is this a dumb idea?


Second question:
His posts are only ~5' tall from the ground. My other posts behind my house are ~6' tall from the ground. I would prefer to have all of the fencing identical to not have to bother with ordering different materials and components for each span of fence. How much pain am I looking at if I were to dig up about 10 posts and replace them with taller/longer posts so that all of my fences are the same-ish height? Is it worth it? I don't think galvanized steel posts are all too expensive, but redoing this seems like it could be quite a bit of work.

My thought for this fence is this neighbor is retired, but he's basically willing to go with whatever I was planning on doign for the fence. I suspect he's going to sell the house and move to his retirement property in the not too distant future. So taking care of this all now before I have to deal with a different neighbor who might be more demanding seems like a good idea.

I just dug out a half dozen poles that were 2 feet down and set in concrete. It is hard work and a lot of effort. Given you have 5' up you are going to either have to go 3' down or the poles are only 6' poles and not sank deep enough which could be why they are heaving.

Chances are you could dig them out and reposition them and it'll be good for a few years. My father did it to move a whole fence and didn't add any new concrete and it has held up for about 15 years so far. We are in MI for reference and they were 6' poles sank 2' down.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Motronic posted:

Does it freeze where you are? How deep is the frost line?

Because right from the beginning this sounds like frost heave to me.

And how are you doing this work? You're not picking up a concrete set post unless you have a tractor/bobcat/miniex.

I'm in Central Texas, so idk what a frost line is. I don't think we have one? My region of the city has lots of limestone and rocks just below the soil so I'm betting that these poles were set half-assedly and not very deep. But I honestly don't know their length.

Obsoletely Fabulous posted:

I just dug out a half dozen poles that were 2 feet down and set in concrete. It is hard work and a lot of effort. Given you have 5' up you are going to either have to go 3' down or the poles are only 6' poles and not sank deep enough which could be why they are heaving.

Chances are you could dig them out and reposition them and it'll be good for a few years. My father did it to move a whole fence and didn't add any new concrete and it has held up for about 15 years so far. We are in MI for reference and they were 6' poles sank 2' down.

Yeah the 6 foot pole set 1 foot down seems like a possibility based on the PO and stories I've heard from the neighbor.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Obsoletely Fabulous posted:

I just dug out a half dozen poles that were 2 feet down and set in concrete. It is hard work and a lot of effort. Given you have 5' up you are going to either have to go 3' down or the poles are only 6' poles and not sank deep enough which could be why they are heaving.

Having also done this same thing recently (8' poles 2 feet down but whatever) it's definitely not fun, especially if you have roots that have started growing over the concrete and poo poo, but it's certainly doable with a shovel and some effort. I was moving the fence but it ended up making a lot more sense to just replace the posts after I'd dug them out than it did to put them back in the ground.

Motronic posted:

And how are you doing this work? You're not picking up a concrete set post unless you have a tractor/bobcat/miniex.

If you're doing this without a tractor or whatever (which is what I did) I found the best way was to dig the hole a few inches wider around the sides of the concrete puck at the bottom and then push from the top of the pole to roll it around and loosen it until I could (with the help of a friend) lift/lever it out.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Jun 20, 2020

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


One of my mole traps was set off the day after I set it, but when I pulled it up, there was nothing in it. I figured it was a misfire. There's been no mole activity for 3 days now and I've been wondering where he might have gone.

I'm out here doing some weeding in the general area of that trap and what do I find but a mole head sticking out of the ground. It must have been hit by the trap but escaped, only to die a slow and painful death. :( I am sorry, little mole.

War...war never changes.

at least I can replant my grass now

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Sorry it went down like that :(

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


We just gave him a little mole funeral and buried him in the backyard.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Jaded Burnout posted:

Sorry it went down like that :(

Yeah

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


MetaJew posted:

I'm in Central Texas, so idk what a frost line is. I don't think we have one? My region of the city has lots of limestone and rocks just below the soil so I'm betting that these poles were set half-assedly and not very deep. But I honestly don't know their length.


Yeah the 6 foot pole set 1 foot down seems like a possibility based on the PO and stories I've heard from the neighbor.

Texas has that expansive soil thing I don't really know anything about, but maybe that's what is messing with the posts.

Obsoletely Fabulous
May 6, 2008

Who are you, and why should I care?

Wallet posted:

Having also done this same thing recently (8' poles 2 feet down but whatever) it's definitely not fun, especially if you have roots that have started growing over the concrete and poo poo, but it's certainly doable with a shovel and some effort. I was moving the fence but it ended up making a lot more sense to just replace the posts after I'd dug them out than it did to put them back in the ground.

Yeah I replaced my poles instead of reusing because mine had some rust at ground level. Posts and concrete are cheap enough that replacing made more sense than reuse with possible failure in a decade. There is one pole we left because a tree has grown next to it and trying to get through the roots would be way too much effort.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

glynnenstein posted:

Texas has that expansive soil thing I don't really know anything about, but maybe that's what is messing with the posts.

Austin is weird :dadjoke: (or not if you think about it) in that some regions are very rocky and have stable soil, while others have a lot of clay and foundation issues. My particular are is quite stable fortunately, while areas near the river, for example, are constantly shifting and settling.

I think in the case of the previous owners of my house and the neighbor, they were lazy and cheap. As an example, someone tried to solder the Romex in one of my junction boxes. There was a wire nut on top of it, but it definitely had a big glob of solder too.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Well this was a fun afternoon. Stripped out all of the split caulk around the garage door trim. I also got the first round of fresh paintable caulk around the third bay trim. Should be able to finish up caulking tomorrow.



MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I've been doing my best to make Matthias Wandel's cantilevered shelves for my shed so I can try to move some junk out of my garage and have some semblance of organization. I, of course, didn't do enough measurements/thinking when I made my initial cuts to account for the studs that are doubled up, so I have to go slice up another 2x4 or 2 to make three more supports for the double studs.



I think I need to buy a rip blade for my Dewalt contractor saw, and really get an outfeed table of some sort, because ripping the 2x4 was very tedious and slow going.

If anyone has any advice for determining just how high I should put the shelves, and how far apart I should space each, that'd be helpful. I am building enough supports to put three rows across this back wall that I believe is approximately 8 feet wide.

Lastly, Matthias glues the shelvese to the "studs" that he then fastens to the actual studs. Given that this is a shed in central Texas, and so there's no humidity control and temperatures can be very hot in the summer, with occasional freezing in the winter, should I be using Titebond III glue or something like a construction adhesive, like Liquid Nails?

Would it be overkill or neccesary to run a lag bolt or bolt and nut through the assembly and stud? At best I don't think I could get more than two bolts through it, since the shelf support is only ~2.125" wide and I don't want to punch a bunch of holes through the studs.







joepinetree
Apr 5, 2012
I've been trying to install some shelves around my condo, but the 3 locations I tried drilling to install an anchor I hit a metal place of some sort:



(the white in the middle is the reflection from the metal place).
Granted, these were in the bathroom (we wanted shelving above the toilet) and in the dividing wall to the mechanical room next to our condo. So 3 questions:

1- Is it common to have these throughout the entire wall, or was I just unlucky?
2- What is the best way to detect these that doesn't cost much (i don't want to spend on 150 bucks on something that I'd use once). My stud detector didn't detect these.
3- If it is indeed common throughout the drywall, can I use anchors that are only as deep as the drywall to hang shelving?

joepinetree fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jun 21, 2020

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
They could be metal plates that are installed to keep you from drilling into or otherwise piercing some plumbing. Is there a vent stack, sewer drain, or fresh water source behind the wall there?

I think there could also be metal strapping run diagonally across a wall section to hold it square, but I'm not certain about that.

Try to figure out if where you're drilling is adjacent to something related to the plumbing.

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





No idea if this is the right thread for this, apologies if not.

Looking to reclaim some space in our spare bedroom now that we spend every waking minute in our apartment. It has been a dedicated guest room with a bed, but obviously that's not going to get used much for the foreseeable future. Are there any couch-beds / futons / similar solutions that aren't awful? If/when we ever do have guests over again, I don't want our parents to have to sleep on something awful. Although they do seem to like plywood-like beds, so maybe I should be less concerned.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Had to go to Lowe’s and get more caulk. Might as well get some 12-2 to finish up some new circuits while I’m at it.

Got the second round of caulk on and smoothed out on the third bay, and the first application of caulk on the double bay. Took the day off tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it all up and paint.



Next up is all of the rotting trim boards after this, that’s gonna be a long term project.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

joepinetree posted:

2- What is the best way to detect these that doesn't cost much (i don't want to spend on 150 bucks on something that I'd use once). My stud detector didn't detect these.

You might be able to hear them by knocking on the wall now that you know where some of them are.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
A magnet if it's steel plate, but you'll also detect drywall screws/nails.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


devmd01 posted:

Had to go to Lowe’s and get more caulk. Might as well get some 12-2 to finish up some new circuits while I’m at it.

Got the second round of caulk on and smoothed out on the third bay, and the first application of caulk on the double bay. Took the day off tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it all up and paint.



Next up is all of the rotting trim boards after this, that’s gonna be a long term project.

I like that ▲ shape

joepinetree
Apr 5, 2012

MetaJew posted:

They could be metal plates that are installed to keep you from drilling into or otherwise piercing some plumbing. Is there a vent stack, sewer drain, or fresh water source behind the wall there?

I think there could also be metal strapping run diagonally across a wall section to hold it square, but I'm not certain about that.

Try to figure out if where you're drilling is adjacent to something related to the plumbing.

One of the places I tried was the bathroom, which would probably be related to plumbing. The other, as I said, is in on the dividing wall between my place and the mechanical room for the elevator on the other side. On my side there's no water fixture, outlet etc, but I have no idea on what is on the mechanical room side.

So it might be that it is indeed all throughout the all. In which case: what are some alternatives to hand stuff on that wall? Really short anchors with some special grip?

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

Internet Explorer posted:

No idea if this is the right thread for this, apologies if not.

Looking to reclaim some space in our spare bedroom now that we spend every waking minute in our apartment. It has been a dedicated guest room with a bed, but obviously that's not going to get used much for the foreseeable future. Are there any couch-beds / futons / similar solutions that aren't awful? If/when we ever do have guests over again, I don't want our parents to have to sleep on something awful. Although they do seem to like plywood-like beds, so maybe I should be less concerned.

Also have the same question.

Pigsfeet on Rye
Oct 22, 2008

I'm meat on the hoof

falz posted:

Also have the same question.

Like a wall-bed sort of thing with nice cabinets that can double as a desk?

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
For my q and I think his, just a non traditional bed like a futon or day bed that's perhaps parent friendly and not super uncomfortable.

No integration with other furniture.

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





Yup, accurate description for me as well. I feel like I've heard good things about Joybird sleepers, but wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas or opinions.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I've heard here and there that Japanese floor futons are actually pretty decent, but they're beyond curiousity-impulse buy so I don't personally know. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q61JH6/?coliid=I3JN8DSF5DDQB0&colid=R1DTL3Q3NG0T&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Most convertibles sacrifice comfort for transforming, but modern sofa beds and such are better than those of 30 years ago.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


When my parents visited, the height of the sleep surface was more important for comfort than softness. Bad knees made his life miserable with futons and tiny tables here in Japan (so we gave my parents our bed.)

joepinetree
Apr 5, 2012
As a relatively big guy (6'4 260), I have never slept in a comfortable futon or pull out couch. There was never one that was thick enough for my size so I always felt every slat, nut and bolt in the foundation. Only solution that I have tried that was decent and saved space was a murphy bed.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


joepinetree posted:

As a relatively big guy (6'4 260), I have never slept in a comfortable futon or pull out couch. There was never one that was thick enough for my size so I always felt every slat, nut and bolt in the foundation. Only solution that I have tried that was decent and saved space was a murphy bed.

When I was at university I bought one of these 8 layer futons, and it's the most comfortable bed I've slept on then or since:
https://www.futonworld.co.uk/product/traditional-8-layer-futon-mattress/

They don't stand up to long term daily use, as they compress over time, but for occasional use I think it'd be great.

I don't know what kind of bed/frame is best, though, as I've always used them direct on the floor.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Might I suggest a blow-up mattress. Get one that's like 12+" thick with its own inflate/deflate plugin pump and throw it on the closet in between visits.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
Anyone have any experience with doing fancy, multi-layer epoxy floors? Specifically, sourcing the various epoxies.

Have done a bunch of epoxy floors, but for the most part they are extremely simple, one coat jobs. Stain the concrete and apply the epoxy. Over the years a few of the more complicated floors have worked their way in--where you put down the base, wait a period of time, apply a middle layer, wait a little more, and finish with a nice shiny top coat. The wife is wanting one of the fancier epoxy floors in our basement.

When I've done a more complicated floor, I've used some place like Versatile Building Products to buy a kit. (https://www.garagecoatings.com/product/lava-flow-metallic-epoxy-flooring-coating-system-kit.asp) These kits get pretty expensive for a 1,200sqft space. When I am spending someone else's money--not so worried about the cost. This time, it will be my money.

With an easy acid stain floor, everything comes from the local Sherwin Williams--and the material cost is quite a bit lower. (I'm thinking SW's ArmorSeal 1K or Rexthane is the top coat.) When I start talking the guys at our local store about a more complicated epoxy floor with a tinted base, etc--they say they can order all the right stuff, but don't have any experience selling the stuff beyond asking other stores/using their store app. Saving a few thousand dollars in materials only to have a screwed up epoxy floor is the nightmare I don't want. Cost of the SW stuff, cost to re-prep the floors, plus the cost of the kit when I finally get the botched epoxy off is why I'm scared to trust SW.

Are the industrial epoxies for flooring all basically the same? It isn't the initial application I worry about. It is what happens under the pad over the coming years from moisture/etc that can cause problems with discoloration and de-lamination of the epoxy. I guess what I am asking--anyone in the know on epoxies?

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

In terrace news, the stonework for the walls is done and looks very nice. The stone is basically the same as the mountain the building is on.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


knox_harrington posted:

In terrace news, the stonework for the walls is done and looks very nice. The stone is basically the same as the mountain the building is on.



nice one

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


knox_harrington posted:

In terrace news, the stonework for the walls is done and looks very nice. The stone is basically the same as the mountain the building is on.



What did you decide to go with for the flooring/patio?

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.


Thanks!

Sirotan posted:

What did you decide to go with for the flooring/patio?

Went with stone in the end. Looking at peoples' wooden decks they seem get old really fast. It's going to be the same as this, 30cm wide Luserna stone flags of variable length:

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

knox_harrington posted:

Thanks!


Went with stone in the end. Looking at peoples' wooden decks they seem get old really fast. It's going to be the same as this, 30cm wide Luserna stone flags of variable length:


Not to be all house stalkerish but I need to live vicariously through you. Can you post more pics of your chalet and the view?

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

BonoMan posted:

Not to be all house stalkerish but I need to live vicariously through you. Can you post more pics of your chalet and the view?

Ha um yeah I can do? Don't want to spam the thread.

I took this at sunset yesterday from the living room. The mountain still lit up is the Weisshorn which is a big one at 4500m.



I'll take some more and post a couple.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Welp, in case the recent revelations about Lowtax bring about the end times here I just want to say thanks to the posters in this thread for your assistance thus far as I continue to suffer the consequences stay busy with all the projects as the restult of buying a fixer upper.

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Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
We would like all the chalet pics please

also, is there a DIY discord?

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