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Hello AI. I, a keyboard warrior, have recently purchased a 2006 2dr rw Colorado. I know very little about vehicle maint and want to use this as a vector to learn. This thing (according to the local chevy dealership) is in about as nice a shape as could be hoped for in a 2006 work truck. I intend to rectify this, as it's my first standard transmission. So far so good, I suppose, but it's only day 3. I have a daily driver ford focus so this is for moving things around, getting used to a manual, and cruising with my doggo. I also intend to pick up lumber and do home improvement projects without bothering my truck-equipped pals. I'm not asking for you to do my homework, by any means, I'm using this post to lay out my feelings/thoughts. If I'm about to go off to do something stupid I'll throw it out here. Todo floating list: Get a cap (looking at soft top) or folding cover? Figure out how to mount my road bike and mtb securely Figure out how to drive the thing comfortably (just practice at this point, I guess) How to maintain a truck that's pushing 90k miles. Make some wood framing for camping storage. gently caress, what else? I'm excited for the possibilities a utility vehicle can provide.
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Jun 21, 2020 18:21
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| # ? May 15, 2024 01:29 |
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taqueso posted:2004 volvo xc90 2.5T Those are part of the PCV system, the tubes inside the insulation are aluminum so the external damage won’t hurt anything.
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Jun 21, 2020 18:58
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What is the purpose of the insulation? What happens if it wasn't insulated at all or if it was insulated extra well?
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Jun 21, 2020 19:13
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STR posted:Yeah, definitely try replacing the fob battery. Weird. I think I do generally keep it close to my cell phone, and I guess if 2-3 years is the life to expect then that's just the way it is, my Subaru key fob lasted like 6 years before the case eventually broke (at 15 years old) and I didn't bother replacing it. I was at HF picking up a giant prybar and looked to see if they had any CR1632s, but no luck. Maybe I'll stop by Ace tomorrow, they should.
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Jun 21, 2020 21:28
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Google also says you can't program it yourself; if it's still unresponsive after a new battery (CR 1632), a locksmith or dealer can program it back into the car. Dealer cost supposedly ranges from $50-75, in some magical fairy land where dealers don't try to take advantage of customers. The Googles also says ~2-3 years is about average for the Toyota smart key battery.
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Your Subaru fob probably wasn't a smart key. The smart key part is what kills the batteries - it wakes up to talk to the car, but a number of things can cause it to wake up. Ace probably carries them, but if you can deal with it for a few days, they're a shitload cheaper online.
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Jun 22, 2020 03:59
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Good point. I was going to take it to the mechanic in a day or two though (tie rod end is shot and if you remember, my Subaru is hosed up right now), so I'll probably just go with Ace.
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Jun 22, 2020 04:39
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taqueso posted:What is the purpose of the insulation? What happens if it wasn't insulated at all or if it was insulated extra well? That PCV tube assembly has a coolant line and a breather line in it - functionally the idea is to keep the breather line warm so that the PCV gases don’t condense on the walls of the tube and sludge it up. I think the insulation is there to keep the lines located properly relative to each other and to protect them from damage. IIRC it’s a very dense, hard foam so while it might have some thermal impact it probably doesn’t play a huge role in keeping heat in/out of the tubing. Removing the insulation entirely would probably be detrimental to the function of the PCV system (and you don’t want that in a Volvo whiteblock) but I don’t think you’d see any benefit from adding more.
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Jun 22, 2020 05:26
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Hey, question. Carmax or Texas Direct Auto? opening my options on selling a truck.
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Jun 22, 2020 05:41
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Todo floating list: A truck with a cap is pretty useless when it comes to moving large and/or bulky objects where as a folding cover can as least be taken off easily if you need to take something tall. If you're wanting the cap to give you a little sleeping area while camping then that works, but be aware that its going to be hot as hell in there unless it has side windows you can open. Grab a hitch and a bike mount, it will likely be easier than hoofing it in and out of the bed, but if you wanna use the bed look for factory tie down loops mounted to the inner sides of the bed. Most every truck has them, then you just need a couple bungie straps or ratchet straps. This will also be good practice for securing any other loads you wanna put in the bed. Get in an empty parking lot and practice taking off smoothly and also getting started on a hill. It'll help. The colorados are decently enough built for a basic work truck. Keep on top of your basic maintenance, check your fluids including trans and diff on occasion and you'll be fine. I'm curious what you mean by framing for camping storage. If you mean something like this (https://decked.com/) then theres a ton of videos around for building a home brewed version online and we have a couple camper build threads in AI that might give you some inspiration.
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Jun 22, 2020 05:43
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Fargin Icehole posted:Hey, question. Carmax. Texas Direct Auto will give you salvage on anything older. Carmax is super easy to deal with, and gave me what was basically my lowball if I were to sell that car private party, and I know drat well it went to auction. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Jun 22, 2020 |
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Jun 22, 2020 06:26
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Fargin Icehole posted:Hey, question. Is there a reason you can't just get quotes from both? Maybe Carvana as well?
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Jun 22, 2020 13:44
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shortspecialbus posted:Is there a reason you can't just get quotes from both? Maybe Carvana as well? STR posted:Carmax. Truck is from 2004 and now a problem child, so that's why Texas direct is also on the table. I wanna say that carvana sent a pretty low quote. You are right though, i'll convince him to do both if it's time to go that route. Thank you both.
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Jun 22, 2020 16:57
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Elmnt80 posted:A truck with a cap is pretty useless when it comes to moving large and/or bulky objects where as a folding cover can as least be taken off easily if you need to take something tall. If you're wanting the cap to give you a little sleeping area while camping then that works, but be aware that its going to be hot as hell in there unless it has side windows you can open. Thanks! As far as the framing question: Yes, a bit like that, but made of wood and built by me. I'm looking at tri-folds that can be used instead of soft-caps. It seems that's just impractical. The tri-folds feel structurally sound enough without being a constant pain in the dick (and with my locking tailgate, secure). I'm fully down this youtube rabbit hole for all sorts of poo poo and will make maint a priority.
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Jun 22, 2020 17:08
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Probably a question that gets asked a lot: 2011 chevy equinox lt, without pioneer audio system. It has tweeters as part of a 6 speaker component system. AFAIK it does not have a subwoofer, just the empty shell in the back. Just had a new receiver put in, setting up audio settings. Should I set a high pass filter, does that split the signal sent to the front 4 speakers, or should I leave it alone, as there is probably some oem passive hpf?
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Jun 22, 2020 22:44
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Leave it alone unless you want absolutely no bass. You only need that once you have a subwoofer.
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Jun 22, 2020 22:54
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spouse posted:To fix that body roll and lack of stability in turns, I'm wondering what would be most efficacious: Do I upgrade to coilovers, do I upgrade swaybars, something else? Both? Maybe just springs? I'm no expert, but no one replied to your post, so I'll take a stab at it and others can correct me when I say something wrong. To fix the body roll, improved swaybars will help tie the left and right side of the car together, so they reduce body roll from side to side. To reduce body roll forward and back, upgrading the springs or moving to coilovers will stiffen the suspension and keep the car more level in motion at the cost of comfort. Springs and coilovers will also help reduce lateral roll as well. The problems you describe with acceleration out of a corner sounds like a lack of LSD problem. Or you could go easier on the throttle until the car straightens out, I guess. No idea on price for any of this stuff, sway bars will definitely be the cheapest and easiest mod. I'd probably start there myself if you're happy with the comfort of the ride otherwise. You can get some super stiff springs and your car will feel like a gokart, which feels awesome when you're driving hard, but feels like poo poo when you're doing some daily driving. I'm sure some Z forums will have a bunch of advice on good suspension setups for your car.
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Jun 22, 2020 23:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you are never going to use it to do more than hold a bike rack, then I would just make it bolt up and call it good. Got it straight enough in a vise to thread it all back together. Accidentally sheered off a (stud? what do you call bolts embedded in a chassis?) but it was probably weak at this point anyways, still have 5 holding everything together and it feels solid as heck. Better keep my bike insurance up, though!
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Jun 22, 2020 23:32
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My old man has a lead foot and he's owned a bunch of radar detectors over the years. Usually Escort or passport ones until maybe 10 years ago. He's in his 80s and he's thinking about buying this: https://store.valentine1.com/Store/item.asp?i=20020 I'm not sure it's worth $500 when there's Waze and other crowd source reporting apps, plus it seems like you'd have to prevent a couple of expensive tickets for it to be worth the price. Does anyone still use radar detectors and are there known good ones that aren't $500 I could point him to looking at if he insists on getting one?
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Jun 22, 2020 23:41
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I don't think an 80 yr old man should be trying to use apps and speeding.
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Jun 23, 2020 00:02
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StormDrain posted:I don't think an 80 yr old man should be trying to use apps and speeding. I agree, and he may be 85 by the time it's safe to leave the house again anyway, but I'd like to know more about radar detectors.
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Jun 23, 2020 00:19
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I got whacked with LIDAR the other day with an extremely painful ticket (mostly going with traffic, until I tried to pass someone that was doing ~50 in a 60 where everyone does 75... he caught me angrily passing  ) I didn't think my car could even go that fast. Bad enough that I'm gonna have to find a lawyer to argue it down enough to let me do defensive driving.Valentine One is gonna be the best at laser detection (and their products are widely regarded as the best in general), but that's still luck of the draw, and depends on how hungover/shaky the cop is that day if they're using laser. If they nail someone's front plate, there's very little scatter to set off any detectors. If they nail YOU with laser, it's basically telling you "go ahead and pull over, you've earned this one buddy". If they bounce it off a headlight, then yeah, you have a decent chance of detection if you're immediately behind or next to the car that got hit. At least in my area, cops mostly use laser when parked; they only really use radar when moving now. Also, just having a visible radar detector will kill his chances of getting a warning instead of a ticket. Cops generally see them as a "yeah, gently caress you, I have a lead foot", and respond with "oh yeah? well that verbal warning just turned into at least 1 ticket". If you're gonna go with a V1, add the concealed display. e: Valentine One is still the best of the best. Add the concealed display. I can't emphasize that enough. Get the V1 out of sight and off of the dash/windshield. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 00:55
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Rexxed posted:My old man has a lead foot and he's owned a bunch of radar detectors over the years. Usually Escort or passport ones until maybe 10 years ago. He's in his 80s and he's thinking about buying this: It’s worth the cost of entry, 100%.
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Jun 23, 2020 01:00
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The one linked doesn't even have laser jamming smdh
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Jun 23, 2020 02:05
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That's their only model at the moment.
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Jun 23, 2020 02:54
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Also laser jamming is like, super illegal.
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Jun 23, 2020 04:18
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My understanding is that the device itself isn't because there isn't an appropriate agency to regulate it if you stay under power limits. But I only found out they existed from that cannonball run video from before covid. It's probably not super legal either, once you use it for it's intended purpose I imagine you break other laws. I'm not recommending anyone get one, I just wanted to shitpost about laser jammers because they are cool and I didn't realize the tech was even there until recently taqueso fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 04:29
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Get yourself a thin blue line sticker, they cancel out the laser jammer and the cops let you off with a warning again.
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Jun 23, 2020 08:05
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Krakkles posted:Also laser jamming is like, super illegal. They’re legal in the majority of states.
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Jun 23, 2020 11:12
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Rexxed posted:My old man has a lead foot and he's owned a bunch of radar detectors over the years. Usually Escort or passport ones until maybe 10 years ago. He's in his 80s and he's thinking about buying this: Heh, one of the car rags I get had a big article on the V1. They just a released a totally new version. One of the cool things about Valentine is you can send your detector in and they will do recent upgrades for a charge. So much changed on the last one they had to release a new version.
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Jun 23, 2020 11:55
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C-Bangin' it 
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My car has got these dents from a fight with mail boxes Is there anything I can do at home about this, not worth taking it to a pro so if not I might just live with it. I have experience and equipment repainting cars (partly, like a door or spoiler and such, never done a whole one) but this is more "dent-al" work. I don't even care if it's perfect, just the worst bumps gone would be nice as I wanna use this car until it's dead and beyond hope. It's just such a nice every day driver, diesel and hardly ever gives me problems, had it for 11-12 years now. I was looking at videos of people doing body work but I guess it's nowehere as easy as they make it look with the hammers and dollies. I tried heating the areas like some videos show, but it didn't do anything, I have discovered there are suction-thingies you can buy and attach to a slide hammer to get dents out maybe worth a try since I have a slide hammer.
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Jun 23, 2020 12:44
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Nothing cheaper than living with it. The next two cheapest options offhand: - Call a paintless dent removal service. I've used them twice, and the results were amazing. They should be able to bring your door skins back for under $500. You may be able to e-mail them photos for a fairly accurate quote. - Pick up two doors at a salvage yard. Doors are relatively easy to replace; the biggest pain in the rear end is replacing the lock cylinder. This option may cost more than the dent removal, depending on your location & availability.
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Jun 23, 2020 13:55
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I was going to suggest PDR but man that one looks brutal on the back door.
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Jun 23, 2020 15:48
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What's PDR?
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Jun 23, 2020 16:07
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Paintless Dent Repair
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Jun 23, 2020 16:12
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Krakkles posted:Also laser jamming is like, super illegal. Lasers are the FDA's jurisdiction. If it's not a risk to health they DGAF, so federally laser jammers are perfectly legal. A few states have made laser jammers illegal, Virginia of course because they hate drivers there and IIRC maybe New York? It's not common though. This obviously only applies to the US, I think in some countries it's even illegal to have a database of speed cameras loaded in your GPS. wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 20:43
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My 2011 Mazda MX-5 Miata is making a wailing noise from the front right wheel at around 45-55 mph. I mostly notice it while going in a straight line, but it seems like it's there whether going straight or turning in either direction. I know this is hard to diagnose without a video, but does anyone have any ideas? My guess is the hub/bearing going out (I'm a little over 80k miles and have done autox with this car for around 8 years) but there's no play in the wheel when it's jacked up. No other issues, just a howl that starts at 45 mph and goes away over 55 mph. I've rotated the tires since the issue started, so I know it's not a tire or individual wheel.
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Jun 24, 2020 03:39
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Ja, the fat lady is singin' Bonus if it changes pitch with speed. Should be a low growl at low speeds.
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Jun 24, 2020 03:44
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Does anyone have a good suggestion of where to put stupid small questions (like this thread was for) when the forums get closed? You guys have been so helpful and I'm gonna miss having you all around to ask dumb poo poo
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Jun 24, 2020 12:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Ja, the fat lady is singin' Yeah, it does change pitch at speed! Looks like I have a new weekend project coming up soon. Thanks for the help!
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Jun 24, 2020 17:07
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Yeah they can fail without the wiggle test showing any play too. Good luck!
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Jun 24, 2020 17:09
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