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that's exactly what a vapomonster would say
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Jun 23, 2020 13:31
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Hed posted:I just haven't really specced out cams so don't know what the typical way to mount for horizontal and vertical are. Once you get out of the realm of consumer spyware garbage and into the big kid realm of commercial spyware garbage there are lots of options for basically anything you need to do. Hikvision has a whole catalog of sketchy cameras rated for different locations, wetness, and vandalism resistance. The latter I sort of map through to "durability to the elements". They come in domes, PTZ, fixed, etc. Look at the cut sheets/mounting instructions for them and you will quickly get a sense for what you want. Note on Hikvision / other commercial POE cameras specifically: Lots of sketch in the vendors selling China domestic market stuff in the USA. It means the units come loaded with Chinese UI's which may or may not be changed to English, some counterfeit units which are simply not Hikvision, come with spyware regardless, etc. Don't let these things connect to the internet using some means other than the camera itself. (Your router for example.) If you can isolate them to their own vlan even better. I use Foscam cameras which are equally sketchy to setup as they all require some kind of "app" to do the initial config. I run the app either on a VM I discard or an old throw away android phone. It set off virus alarms when I ran the app on Windows.  Same goes for the residential garbage like Ring or Nest, though those at least say right on the box they're terrible spyware.
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Jun 23, 2020 14:47
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My toaster is broken. The elements still heat up, but the lever doesn't stay down unless I hold it. Taking it apart revealed the electromagnet that causes the lever to be held down. There's no crumbs or anything on it. The magnet is getting power-- it holds, just not enough to keep the lever down. When unplugged there's no magnetic effect at all. I've tried moving around the browning dial to no effect. I'm not sure where to go from here. Mechanically everything appears sound and sufficiently clean. Its like the electromagnet isn't getting sufficient power but I can't imagine how that would come up, or how I would test that. Any suggestions? I have a multimeter and am comfortable enough messing with electronics.
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Jun 23, 2020 15:21
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There's presumably a spring or similar that pushes the toast up when the electromagnet isn't holding it. Can you weaken that component to make the magnet strong enough to hold? Keeping in mind that doing this might make it too weak to lift your toast up.
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Jun 23, 2020 15:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:There's presumably a spring or similar that pushes the toast up when the electromagnet isn't holding it. Can you weaken that component to make the magnet strong enough to hold? Keeping in mind that doing this might make it too weak to lift your toast up. Hmm, maybe. The spring is attached at the top of the chassis and pulls the lever up. I could detach it from the top, add in some extra piece to allow the spring to connect lower down. Like a tiny keychain, or a sturdy piece of wire bent into a ring with pliers.
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Jun 23, 2020 15:41
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Need some opinions! My wife and I live in a double wide (yay but it was cheap) and the windows have been in need of replacing for awhile. Of course, like any manufactured home the window sizing is not standard so it's either spend a ton of money getting a 46x60 window or shrink the opening down to a 36x60. I am cheap and we are going the shrink route. Where I am really coming up short on ideas is how to cover this extra sheathing. The home currently has vinyl siding, I installed the stuff for years so that isn't a problem .. but finding anything that is going to look similar to what is on here is a nightmare. I can either shrink the opening by simply doing a single 10" 2x6 + sheathing or I could split the difference and do a roughly 5" 2x6 + sheathing on both sides. Again, my loss for ideas here comes with ... what am I going to cover the sheathing with? Would a somewhat wide wood trim piece with proper caulking suffice? Open to all ideas! Edit: Thinking a little more about it after just checking google images for what I am doing, I could trim around the top, bottom and sides with wood trim .. seal it and then j-channel around that trim to give it the look that it was original. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jun 23, 2020 |
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Jun 23, 2020 16:11
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Yeah, my inclination here would be to bulk out a frame around the window, rather than try to extend the siding by 5" on both sides.
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Jun 23, 2020 17:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, my inclination here would be to bulk out a frame around the window, rather than try to extend the siding by 5" on both sides. Yeah, I didn't think extending it would make sense, especially since if I didn't want a nice straight vertical line of siding joints I'd have to probably do as much work anyways.
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Jun 23, 2020 19:11
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Count Roland posted:Hmm, maybe. The spring is attached at the top of the chassis and pulls the lever up. I could detach it from the top, add in some extra piece to allow the spring to connect lower down. Like a tiny keychain, or a sturdy piece of wire bent into a ring with pliers. The magnet has become weaker, it happens. Weakening another post of the mechanism to compensate is a bad idea. If you can't replace the electromagnet or make it stronger ditch the toaster.
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Jun 23, 2020 20:21
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cakesmith handyman posted:The magnet has become weaker, it happens. Weakening another post of the mechanism to compensate is a bad idea. If you can't replace the electromagnet or make it stronger ditch the toaster. Hook it up to some 240 volt action. Bonus, your toast will be done in seconds.
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Jun 23, 2020 20:41
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wesleywillis posted:Hook it up to some 240 volt action. Bonus, your toast will be done in seconds. All our toast is cooked at 240V.
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Jun 23, 2020 20:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:All our toast is cooked at 240V. but you only have 13a circuits in your homes.. I'll take plugging my saw into pretty much any outlet that exists over quick toast. :p
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Jun 23, 2020 21:05
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tater_salad posted:but you only have 13a circuits in your homes.. I'll take plugging my saw into pretty much any outlet that exists over quick toast. :p Which is a 26A equivalent, no?
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Jun 23, 2020 21:09
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Jaded Burnout posted:Which is a 26A equivalent, no? 
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Jun 23, 2020 21:22
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tater_salad posted:but you only have 13a circuits in your homes.. I'll take plugging my saw into pretty much any outlet that exists over quick toast. :p Quiet you, NA should move to 240V for more things. Hell even just getting to 20A would be nice. (15A@120V = 1800W, 20A@120V = 2400W, 13A@230V = 2990W.) All day long. Smaller conductors, more power, win/win/win. But nooooo even though 20A appliance outlets have been code for a decade now for the inbuilt microwave, they're all still 15A rated.
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Jun 23, 2020 21:39
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Very significantly smaller conductors. The diameter, not the cross-sectional area, scales with current. So double the voltage and halve the current for the same power and your wires use a quarter of the copper.
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Jun 23, 2020 21:52
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H110Hawk posted:Quiet you, NA should move to 240V for more things. More dangerous to humans, more risk of fire... for what? space heaters and small heat generating appliances? We have 240 where it counts like hardwired baseboard heaters, dryers, stoves, and water heaters. You can buy >1100W commercial microwaves if you want, they usually require a NEMA 6-20 240v/20A outlet, which is easy enough to install for that specific use. This 3500W microwave can probably make your pizza rolls in like 5 seconds, all for the low price of $5100: https://www.bigtray.com/amana-microwave-menumaster-microwave-oven-mso35-sku-amamso35-c-411392.html
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Jun 23, 2020 22:18
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Hi! I have some cracks in my ceiling that I’m not sure about the severity. House was built in 1929, purchased two years ago, and the foundation was called “very good” by the home inspector. The cracks were there before we bought, I’m just not sure if they’ve gotten bigger. The ceiling is plaster:   
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Jun 23, 2020 22:41
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looking pretty close to a swastika here, might be time for arson
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Jun 23, 2020 23:13
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This is why people go to great lengths to ditch plaster, or cover it with such lovely aesthetics as drop ceilings, stapled acoustic tiles, paneling, or popcorn. This is what plaster does. Always has; always will. You can patch & paint, but they'll keep coming back, for all time. Disclosure: My house was built in 1930 & has the original plaster walls; the ceilings were covered with drywall & crown molding, probably in the '60s or '70s. I have my favorite pet recurring wall cracks that I keep spackling & touching up. We're old friends.
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Jun 23, 2020 23:19
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B-Nasty posted:More dangerous to humans, more risk of fire... for what? space heaters and small heat generating appliances? We have 240 where it counts like hardwired baseboard heaters, dryers, stoves, and water heaters. You can buy >1100W commercial microwaves if you want, they usually require a NEMA 6-20 240v/20A outlet, which is easy enough to install for that specific use. It would save me a load of time making all of these NEMA 5-20Px2->6-20R adapters let me tell you. The inspector gets a bit shifty when all of your duplex outlets are 12/3 shared neutral but what can you do.
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Jun 23, 2020 23:33
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yeah, that crack is pretty normal.
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Jun 24, 2020 07:20
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What's the best way to mount a rubber duck head like a hunting trophy?
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Jun 24, 2020 07:32
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Guildenstern Mother posted:What's the best way to mount a rubber duck head like a hunting trophy? Hot glue? Super glue? It's not heavy or anything so pretty much any method will work
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Jun 24, 2020 10:17
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RV air conditioner, Coleman Mach, not cooling. Compressor sounds like it's running normally, not short-cycling like refrigerant is low, fan is fine, condenser isn't icing up, but it just won't blow cold. No ports to put gauges on or I would have.
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Jun 24, 2020 10:31
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So is there a DIY forum discord I can join?
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Jun 24, 2020 11:11
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corgski posted:So is there a DIY forum discord I can join? Not that I know of. I guess I could make one?
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Jun 24, 2020 11:27
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It might be worthwhile. I considered making one myself but I already moderate two 2,000+ member Facebook groups and the last loving thing I need to do is make myself responsible for yet another community. 
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Jun 24, 2020 11:30
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New official DIY discord: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3929094 Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Jun 24, 2020 11:30
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cakesmith handyman posted:The magnet has become weaker, it happens. Weakening another post of the mechanism to compensate is a bad idea. If you can't replace the electromagnet or make it stronger ditch the toaster. I'd also prefer not to weaken something, but I'm out of ideas for making the magnet stronger. The first thing I did was try to stick some steel and magnets around the mechanism to see if the electromagnet would be more inclined to stick. It didn't work, and even if it did it probably would be very fiddly. Is there a way to increase the strength of the magnet? I'm not going to be soldering anything to the PCB, so I can't think of any ways. But I'm not going to ditch the toaster yet. If weakening the spring solves the issue I'll keep it; it doesn't add any safety issues.
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Jun 24, 2020 12:46
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e:nvm
ist fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jul 2, 2020 |
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Jun 24, 2020 16:25
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My best guess on that word is "cleaning", for what it's worth.
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Jun 24, 2020 22:18
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I want a desk that's somewhere between 90 and 96 inches long and a couple feet wide, is there an affordable wood that can be held up by legs on each end without supports in the center? I was just going to see what home depot could cut for me, but I don't want something that's going to bow in the middle. It would only be holding 3 laptops and a few accessories, so maybe 30-40 pounds tops to be safe?
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Jun 25, 2020 03:36
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Affordable--probably not. The longer you span, the thicker the wood will need to be without support. Think: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardwoo...02598/300688697 But in reality--how you attach the legs is going to matter. Four legs simply screwed into the bottom won't cut it and would fail under a load. What you can do is build a rectangle a bit smaller than your table out of something like 1x4's, attach the legs to the rectangle, and put basically anything on top. Any plywood in the 1/4" to 1/2" thickness should work fine. And if the top starts to bow--add more 1x4's. The 1x4's are holding the weight, not the table top itself. You can make the table a little more sturdy by adding rails between the legs on the sides and/or back. Google workbench plans you'll get some ideas. Just instead of 2x4's and cheap plywood you can use nicer pine or oak 1x4 lumber and something like a maple or birch topped plywood--way more on the affordable side. You can get fancier with the top by adding 1/2 round oak to the edges of the plywood or using solid wood instead of plywood and router/round off the edge. Heck--you can figure out the affordability based on how you want to finish the table. If you're not planning on doing anything to wood--get the cheapest stuff you can find. If you're going to paint it--get pine. If want to stain the final project--oak and a nicer top...
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Jun 25, 2020 06:41
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. (USER WAS BANNED FOR THIS POST) (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Jun 25, 2020 09:56
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Any carpeting experts here? Moved into a new rental where apparently the landlords dog loved to piss in the carpet in the closet. The landlord says he only knows of two times it happened. Anyways, the landlord had it professionally cleaned, we came in and still smelled it so he agreed to pay for another professional cleaner. It’s been professionally cleaned three times and it still smells, though not as bad as before. We took a black light to it last night and the entire carpet area in the closet looks like it’s badly marked. I don’t know if cleaning agents would show up on a black light how urine does or not. Anyways, talked to the landlord and he’s agreed to have that patch replaced. My question: the carpet in the closet/master bedroom/hallway/ looks like it was all one piece. Would it be possible to replace the carpet in the closet and by the vent without it looking like poo poo next to the other carpet that goes to the bedroom?  Edit: it looks like it’s possible-main problem would be finding the exact same carpet. He’s got some downstairs. Not sure I can tackle this job myself. Would you guys recommend Home Depot or finding someone on thumbtack? nwin fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Jun 25, 2020 |
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Jun 25, 2020 12:36
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gamer roomie is 41 posted:I want a desk that's somewhere between 90 and 96 inches long and a couple feet wide, is there an affordable wood that can be held up by legs on each end without supports in the center? I was just going to see what home depot could cut for me, but I don't want something that's going to bow in the middle. It would only be holding 3 laptops and a few accessories, so maybe 30-40 pounds tops to be safe? A 24" wide hollow-core door slab will work. As already noted, you still need to build a frame to support the legs.
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Jun 25, 2020 13:55
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PainterofCrap posted:A 24" wide hollow-core door slab will work. As already noted, you still need to build a frame to support the legs. gamer roomie is 41 posted:I want a desk that's somewhere between 90 and 96 inches long and a couple feet wide, is there an affordable wood that can be held up by legs on each end without supports in the center? I was just going to see what home depot could cut for me, but I don't want something that's going to bow in the middle. It would only be holding 3 laptops and a few accessories, so maybe 30-40 pounds tops to be safe? I did exactly this in my "Nerdery". Except I used a 36" solid core door slab from my local hardware store I bought for $80. Made a fantastic and roomy work surface. Mine is supported on both ends; on one side its attached to the wall via a length of 2x4 screwed into to the wall studs. And on the other side by a small metal filing cabinet. I can stand on the middle of it without it sagging or bending at all. lovely potato quality picture from when I installed it 7 years ago:  How it looks now: (yes, its a disaster) 
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Jun 25, 2020 14:39
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Cheers to the three of you that had helpful tips, jeers to the person who apparently posted goatse between your replies and got banned lol. Looking more into it, it seems like the cost will exceed what it would be to just push together some cheapo ikea desks, but on the other hand this seem like a perfect little project for me. I'm not that handy, so a seemingly straightforward, low-stakes build like this might be just the thing for me to attempt. stevewm, I don't know what you do but whatever it is it looks cool 
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Jun 25, 2020 22:30
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| # ? May 27, 2024 15:08 |
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gamer roomie is 41 posted:I want a desk that's somewhere between 90 and 96 inches long and a couple feet wide, is there an affordable wood that can be held up by legs on each end without supports in the center? I was just going to see what home depot could cut for me, but I don't want something that's going to bow in the middle. It would only be holding 3 laptops and a few accessories, so maybe 30-40 pounds tops to be safe? You can find work tops relatively easily in Amazon or the box stores. Also Ikea's scratch and dent section has CHEAP countertop sections all the time. I bought a long 96" wood topper for like $75 and still don't know what to do with it.
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Jun 25, 2020 22:37
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