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Rev matching is another thing that isn't optional and literally everyone should be able to do as a basic element of riding a bike properly regardless of how slow you go.
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Jun 9, 2020 03:42
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oh rev matching sure, but maintenance throttle mid turn while still holding the front brake seems super unnecessary at best and low siding at worst.
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Jun 9, 2020 05:28
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Oh yeah don't do that, if you're doing that it pretty much means you hosed up your line and need to plan corners more.
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Jun 9, 2020 05:52
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Martytoof posted:Let me pose a non-hypothetical question, by which I mean -- when I dumped my 250 I was on a road which was gravely, but was also winding around blind corners. I was approaching a big blind bend in the road at super low speeds and applied the front brake as I turned (which I gather was the no-no), but when you combine something like a road that you're taking at 10km/h, almost walking speed, gravel, and sharp-ish turns, how do you even begin go approach that without dumping, short of "just be smart enough not to be there in the first place"? First, it's scary to crash. Particularly when you don't know why you crashed or you can't connect the academic knowledge of why with the feeling of what happened. For me, with a crash like that one I find that what it feels like is the bike just suddenly flings me onto the ground for no reason. That's not what happens, but it sure feels that way. The exercise for me at least then is figuring out what actually happened and what I can do to fix it. Second, here you almost certainly grabbed too much front brake too hard and your front locked up and slid in the direction of travel (not the direction the bike was pointed), lean angle increased dramatically and the bike went zoop out from underneath you to the side. This isn't an issue of applying front brake at all, it's an issue of how much, when and at what angle. Like so many things, what seems horrifying and inexplicable when you're not used to it and don't know what you're doing will all be relatively easy and simple once you get used to it and practice. Obviously a small dirt bike is far and away the best way to learn. I really enjoyed this class and thought it was good and worth flying out to take. http://www.cornerspin.com/main.html Until then, if you want to get a little better with your current bike, practice just locking up the rear and riding the skid out. Then do that in some gravel. Make sure there's nothing scary in front of you and you're going in a straight line. Then go in a straight line and lock up the front very briefly on purpose. I wouldn't play around with it too much but it's useful to practice braking in exactly the same way you would on cement. Just brake progressively until you get a feeling for what dirt or gravel traction is like. I know I've said it a bunch but riding in the dirt is super fun and worth doing so I would definitely prioritize that if I were you. It will also help a great deal on the road.
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Jun 9, 2020 07:09
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Yerok posted:On the 690 enduro it seems like the reduction in trail from going to a 17 inch front wheel is pretty noticeable. My XR650R on 17's feels a lot less twitchy nailing bumps in lovely roads at 80 mph. I wouldn't say it's that much worse than the factory DRZ SM feels in terms of stability but I guess I sort of got used to how neutral and stable the XR feels at speed. Probably worth taking the triples off and flipping the steering stem eccentrics to the 22mm setting as opposed to the factory 24mm. I think remember watching an early review of the 690 and the guy said it was a very forward, almost sporty riding position? More like a sports bike than a dual sport.
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Jun 9, 2020 07:31
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Thanks for the thought out response! You're likely on the mark with everything you said. I probably did grab too much front around that corner, combined with already being uneasy on the turn (and road in general) it just contributed to my eventual test of the ejection seat.
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Jun 9, 2020 13:07
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GriszledMelkaba posted:I don't think it's a good idea to be applying both your front brake and be on throttle mid turn if ever. I took another riding course right before the summer and the rona hit and they covered using the brake some during low speed turns, but I didn't feel comfortable enough to really practice it there, it's hard to get used to readjusting my grip like that. But yeah there's a reason they teach you to be off the brakes completely in the beginner classes, and this is a beginner thread. I'm definitely a beginner to the whole concept and will just keep being slow until I find a chance to practice somewhere safe. RightClickSaveAs posted:I also found it's hard to stretch my front fingers out far enough while still consistently applying steady or increasing throttle. This is with an adjustable brake lever even. It's just a lot of muscle memory to retrain I guess.
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Jun 9, 2020 16:03
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My unpopular opinion: it is wrong and stupid that they don't teach trail braking from the very start, because it makes it harder to learn to ride properly later. Literally every bike on sale today (ok maybe not Harleys and enfields) is designed with proper braking in mind. I think teaching people to ride the old fashioned, simple way is basically not giving riders enough credit and assuming they're too dumb to do it properly, so later you end up having conversations like this.
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Jun 9, 2020 20:16
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Well, given that the US/Canada barely teaches you *anything*... The requirements for getting a licence here are extremely low.
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Jun 9, 2020 20:44
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I think of braking into the apex and throttling out as the inverse to my lean angle. As my lean angle increases to the apex, my brake pressure decreases, and as my lean angle decreases going out from the apex my throttle increases. I can't imagine trying to maintain enough lever pressure to leave the light on while exiting a corner. Seems weird. This is more apparent on track because on street I probably do this with max 10% braking pressure into a turn due to being a wuss and having huge engine braking from a 1290 twin. I dunno. I just have issue with worrying about covering your brake enough to engage the light while modulating your throttle on corner exit.
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Jun 9, 2020 21:47
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Slavvy posted:My unpopular opinion: it is wrong and stupid that they don't teach trail braking from the very start, because it makes it harder to learn to ride properly later. Literally every bike on sale today (ok maybe not Harleys and enfields) is designed with proper braking in mind. I think teaching people to ride the old fashioned, simple way is basically not giving riders enough credit and assuming they're too dumb to do it properly, so later you end up having conversations like this. As one of my instructors said, we are bipedal, ground-bound mammals, motorcycling is so counterintuitive psychologically to our developed ideas of how we're supposed to be propelling our asses around. GriszledMelkaba posted:I think of braking into the apex and throttling out as the inverse to my lean angle. As my lean angle increases to the apex, my brake pressure decreases, and as my lean angle decreases going out from the apex my throttle increases. I can't imagine trying to maintain enough lever pressure to leave the light on while exiting a corner. Seems weird. This is very possibly just another instance of me way overthinking something that should be simple. One of the big hangups for me with the little practicing trail braking I've done is actually moving my fingers forward and braking at all into the beginning of the turn, I'm so used to getting the braking done beforehand and just letting the engine do the rest. It was very humbling to find out how slow I was on the track.
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Jun 10, 2020 02:26
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RightClickSaveAs posted:Do you still keep the fingers you use to brake extended past the apex, or just move back around the throttle? I just move back around the throttle like you're holding a screwdriver. RightClickSaveAs posted:It was very humbling to find out how slow I was on the track. No matter how fast someone is on the track they're still slow. It's crazy how fast you can actually go on track and I'll never get there.
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Jun 10, 2020 02:34
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wtf is this new gangtag
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Jun 10, 2020 05:18
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the hot new riding style, use only your closed fists to operate biek punch throttle go faster, punch brake go slower. Trail braking? pffftt this is dumb strategy for baby, just punch steering wheel in direction you want to go
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Jun 10, 2020 05:31
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when in doubt, gas out: only trust your fists
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Jun 10, 2020 05:49
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Shelvocke posted:I think remember watching an early review of the 690 and the guy said it was a very forward, almost sporty riding position? More like a sports bike than a dual sport. Like I said, it's really not any different than my DRZ was. In my mind it's more of a testament to how shockingly good the XR is at highway speeds.
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Jun 10, 2020 06:50
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:wtf is this new gangtag it's topical 
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Jun 10, 2020 06:57
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streets of rage posted:POLICE WILL NEVER HELP YOU especially the ones in Testarossas
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Jun 10, 2020 23:20
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Oof, tipped it over practicing low speed stuff today. Thankfully only damage was some liiight scuffing to the frame slider, a tiny scuff on the mirror and bar end. Nothing that can’t be buffed out or replaced cheaply. Unlike my ego which is a write off. Pointed my head by looking down during a turn instead of where I was supposed to be going, not sure why I expected things to go any differently than they did. Gotta keep practicing, what can I say.
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Jun 14, 2020 00:06
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Martytoof posted:Unlike my ego which is a write off. Half-dropped mine in the driveway the other week, for the exact same reason. Got lucky and managed to muscle it back up before it hit the ground, but my wife saw me and I don't think I'm ever going to fully recover.
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Jun 14, 2020 04:04
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Rode about 750km total on lovely roads in cold and drizzle and occasional heavy rain over the past 2 days. Half way through the first day I was ready to quit forever from being freezing cold and scarily invisible. Second day I remembered my waterproof gloves, threw a cheap waterproof poncho and then my hi vis on over my jacket, and it was much less unpleasant, although I was apparently still invisible.
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Jun 16, 2020 11:28
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Triple post I guess but OK, gently caress it, I'm sick of not being able to go up hill on the highway at the speed limit, not being able to go faster than a crawl on dirt roads, and just generally not being comfortable on the intruder. I've gone and ridden a honda shadow, a honda rebel 500, vstar 650 classic and custom and kawa vulcan S, and the vulcan was the only fun one, but not all that comfortable so I think I've got cruisers out of my system now too. I've been thinking about getting a second bike for going on dirt roads, fire tracks, etc but it's gonna cost a fortune in registration and insurance to have two. So as people here have recommended, I'm looking at DR650s. Checking some out on Monday and I have the usual questions: What specific stuff should I look out for in a used DR650? If I like these bikes, is it worth me buying new, at all? What about the "Tanami edition" which has a bunch of stuff I'd probably want anyway, especially a bigger fuel tank? (https://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/news/dr650se-tanami-edition/) What mods should I look for / look into? I guess I'm gonna need like adventure/offroad boots for doing dirt stuff, so what kind? Ditto helmets, is there something about those "adventure" helmets that's not gonna be present on my HJC RPHA90 that's important to have? I guess the sun shade thing would be nice, but...?
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Jun 27, 2020 05:49
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I'm not a fan of sun visors built into the helmet. Fiddly and potentially dangerous in a crash. I just bought some prescription glasses with transitions lenses in them, as I got tired of the occasional super sunny day making my eyes/head hurt while on my bike, just waiting for the glasses to arrive now to test them out.
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Jun 27, 2020 14:21
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Triple post I guess but Watch this entire series, which addresses everything on a DR650 that can benefit from upgrade. It’s a great watch anyway, even if you don’t dive deep into upgrading. I think the only thing that’s really agreed upon as necessary is suspension, which there are a few levels of improvements available at Procycle. But I think that need is possibly overstated. The neutral sending unit screws need to be fixed. I think that’s one of the few potentially disastrous things specific to the model. Look for the DR fandom wiki for a good outline of what to check on a used model and a few other smaller fixes. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jun 28, 2020 |
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Jun 27, 2020 15:19
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Triple post I guess but Just use your current gear until you discover that riding on dirt is the best and you buy a dirt bike. Then you can get mx boots (sidi or Gaerne or A*) and a helmet with goggles and gloves with no protection and a matching jersey and pants. I wouldn’t buy a dr650 new personally.
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Jun 27, 2020 15:40
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Triple post I guess but Nice choice I think you'll love it. Great bike, tons of torque, easy to toss around twisties, powers through things off road. 1) Ask if the Neutral Sending Unit has been safety wired. No big deal if not, but a plus if so. 2) Don't buy new unless it's as cheap as used. 3) Tanami edition looks rad, and we dont get that, but the stock tank is plenty large and that's all extra stuff you'll just buy from procycle if you want anyway. 4) Ride a bit before mods. Procycle Breath easy kit when you want a massive power boost. Seat concepts seats are nice, I had the tall. Otherwise just ride it and decide what bike you want it to be. 5) I don't know what you have, but you want something like forma adventures at least for off road. 6) I really like the AFX FX-41 helmets, but you don't need it to start on. Use what you have. ADV helmets let more air in off road at low speeds which is nice, and also give you a huge FOV.
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Jun 28, 2020 02:42
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I just bought a 2020 DR650 and I can say with confidence there's no real reason not to go used; I don't regret my choice but it wasn't the most fiscally responsible choice.
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Jun 28, 2020 03:55
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The tech has not changed for the most part for the entire run of the 2nd generation, so yeah, buying new is unnecessary. Unless you can afford it and having a brand new machine gives you a specific peace of mind or confidence, then go for it. They only seem to depreciate down to about $3000 at a minimum anyway.
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Jun 28, 2020 05:59
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Thanks everyone. Asking about new because the used ones I've seen here are only like 500-1000ish cheaper than new, don't have the mods I want (tank/skidplate/handguards), or else they're 2-3000 cheaper than new but have >50,000kms and are visibly bashed to hell and have red flag phrases like "was running when parked" or "haven't had rego for a few years but shouldn't be hard to get". Kinda figuring this is the same poo poo you're seeing in the USA where used bikes have got expensive in covid quarantine. e: Wait, no, I forgot about facebook marketplace. Yeah, I'll be going used if I find a good one. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jun 28, 2020 |
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Jun 28, 2020 06:19
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I'm not sure about Australia but in the UK for sure dealers are desperate to get rid of stock; new models aren't far away and we're going to be in a recession right after 3 months of no sales. You could probably make an outrageously low offer on a new one and they'll bite your hand off.
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Jun 28, 2020 09:07
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OK, so I'm going to check out one of these tomorrow at a local-ish place that mostly does farm equipment and ag bikes, but has a 2010 DR with 15k kms for 5 grand ride away, which is just about half the rrp. It's white though and I really hate the colour. How hard would it be to rattlecan this bike? It's just the front and rear fender, tank, two side things, and the headlight fairing, which all come off pretty easy, right? e: Also, I think it's pretty obvious that as a big fat dude I'm gonna need to upgrade suspension on a dr. I've watched the videos recommended upthread and the obvious thing to do is to try to get in contact with the company they show and buy the appropriate stuff from them, have I got that right? Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Jun 28, 2020 |
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Jun 28, 2020 12:47
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Getting dialed in suspension is a pretty huge quality of life improvement, but maybe see what it's like before planning to splurge, you might be pleasantly surprised (probably not). I've rattle canned bike parts over the years with varying levels of success and if you're patient and methodical you can get good results. I'd seriously consider using a good quality plastic spray (like plastidip or plastikote depending on what is available and reviews well in your area). It gives a very nice even coat even if you're sloppy and if you hate it you can just peel it off. Caveat: the finish will never be as resilient or as good quality as the factory finish. And it's a gigantic pain in the rear end. That said, it can be fun. You may feel like you want to splurge on entirely new panels, which means you can switch out ones you inevitably wreck as you learn dualsporting when it comes to sell. And as with any bike, take a really good hard long look at it before you buy. You can always go back later after you've had a think.
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Jun 28, 2020 13:37
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:OK, so I'm going to check out one of these tomorrow at a local-ish place that mostly does farm equipment and ag bikes, but has a 2010 DR with 15k kms for 5 grand ride away, which is just about half the rrp. If you're riding around ok on a 250 intruder you either aren't that fat or it doesn't really matter that much, take your pick. When people talk about upgrading DR suspension it's because they want to do more than just roll slowly down rough trails; for pavement and gravel it is perfectly adequate, the limit is usually the tyres. It only needs upgrading if you compare it on dirt to a more focused dirt bike. Dirt and pavement riding are diametrically opposed, it's impossible have a bike that's genuinely good at both; fast ADV's will always get owned by a normal naked bike on the road due to height and stability issues, and by an MX bike due to weight, suspension and engine power. All you can do is move the slider one way or another and try to nibble at the edges with stuff that helps in both situations. Having said that, the DR's fork is so primitive that improving the damping purely for the dirt will make it work better on the road anyway. All of this is academic if you can't go fast enough for it to matter anyway, I'd suggest riding the bike first. You might hate it! The internet is filled with people trying to replace skill with dollars, you'd be amazed how few upgrades you actually need when you know what you're doing.
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Jun 28, 2020 20:26
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Slavvy posted:When people talk about upgrading DR suspension it's because they want to do more than just roll slowly down rough trails; for pavement and gravel it is perfectly adequate, the limit is usually the tyres. It only needs upgrading if you compare it on dirt to a more focused dirt bike.
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Jun 28, 2020 21:25
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OK so probably not that one. Everything about it looked and felt worn, rust starting to show in places where the frame's been scraped, etc. But yeah, I'm buying one of these. Rode it around for half and hour and it was more fun and lots more comfortable than the intruder, even with the weirdly high pegs and stock seat and I'm going to have to assume aftermarket incredibly tiny rear brake pedal. It also had offroad knobby tires which felt real weird on the road. But... fun as hell. I liked being up high on the bike, I liked the power, I liked the way it leaned over, I didn't particularly like the vibration and sticky switches but I figure that's down to an older more heavily used bike and the knobbies. Found one on fb marketplace that's only got 2.5k km on it and comes with road tires and a set of dirt wheels/tires and extended tank/rear rack so I'm gonna try to go look at that on the weekend. e: While I'm still not completely committed to the DR, what else should I check out as far as dual sport or adventure-y bikes? I didn't like the KLR 650 even just to sit on. What would I expect to find from a verys, vstrom, or even a ktm 390 adventure? Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jun 29, 2020 |
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Jun 29, 2020 05:42
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:OK so probably not that one. Everything about it looked and felt worn, rust starting to show in places where the frame's been scraped, etc. Versys and VStrom are heavier (I think?) than DR, and less dirt worthy. Check out DRZ/KLX400, DR350, Husky TR650.
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Jun 29, 2020 06:27
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I've got bad news about the vibration. The versys and Strom are tall bouncy road bikes with dirt-ish wheel sizes, they're a more road-biased compromise and generally 'nicer' in a touchy feely sense. They feel much closer to their SV/er relatives than anything dirty. Anything 390 based is fraught with mechanical peril but afaik the adv version is a fun ride.
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Jun 29, 2020 06:51
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Tried the Vstrom today. It was ok like the vulcan s was ok, in that I guess I'd be happy enough with it. But I was grinning like a lunatic when I brought the DR back, so I guess that answers that question. A friend put me onto his friend's dad's friend or something who apparently was gonna do XYZ touring trips, bought a DR and hardly rode it. So I called him up, he's had the suspension professionally set up for his fat rear end (new springs +something both ends), put the extended tank and bash plates on, then rode it 3500km over 5 years. I'm waiting for him to call me back with a time and date so I can drive all the way across the state and check it out and probably buy it. Trying to figure out if it'll go in the van or if I'll need a trailer, because gently caress hauling a trailer 6-700km both ways unless I have to. The listed dimensions are 119.5cm tall. Any idea if that includes the mirrors? If it does, I can probably get it in the van, but if that's the little headlight fairing then probably not.
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Jun 30, 2020 11:00
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Ride it back.
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Jun 30, 2020 11:55
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Tried the Vstrom today. It was ok like the vulcan s was ok, in that I guess I'd be happy enough with it. But I was grinning like a lunatic when I brought the DR back, so I guess that answers that question. Grinning like a lunatic is the Dr experience. So glad you like it. You'll like it spring for a fatass, since its way too squishy stock. That's a good upgrade
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Jun 30, 2020 16:10
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