Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

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Spanish Manlove: Aug 31, 2008; HAILGAYSATAN

Nebalebadingdong posted:

done with goblins for a little while

Your posts are my new favorites in this thread, great work dude. Can't wait to see your next post

# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:20

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# ? Jun 12, 2024 13:51

TURGID TOMFOOLERY: Nov 1, 2019

Nebalebadingdong posted:

look up kevin dallimore

it's just old school model painting with layers

- don't use washes
- don't wet blend
- mix the colors on your palette to produce subtler (but still visible) steps between each layer.
- you get diminishing returns on the number of layers, but you need at least 3

everyone's focus these days seems to be on having ultra smooth blends. it's impressive but not how i want to paint

here's some pirates painted by kevin dallimore:

this is what i aspire to. you can really see the layers and the black lines from the base coat poking through between color areas

Nice thank you friend

# ? Jul 10, 2020 08:16

Gravitas Shortfall: Jul 17, 2007; Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.

Preview of a project I've been mucking about with mainly as a way to test Contrast paints. The only thing that isn't straight constrast over Wraithbone is the metallics which have a heavy drybrush of Runefang steel that the lighting is washing out.

I've got another 6 of these weirdos converted from Skitarii Ruststalkers, Corvus Cabal, and a bunch of stuff I had lying around.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 10:40

PierreTheMime: Dec 9, 2004; Hero of hormagaunts everywhere!; Buglord

Finished up the new Szeras model in time for it to start leading the Indomitus Necrons when they arrive:

# ? Jul 10, 2020 13:21

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Grizzled Patriarch posted:

drat those are pretty, are those robes brush-blended / glazed or is that yet another reason to tempt me into buying an airbrush?

Airbrush supremacy. I'd kill myself if I tried to do that on 10 seperate minis.

Grizzled Patriarch posted:

edit: also as someone who is basically trying to emulate this setup for my mini photography, what is the secret to not making every single slightly misplaced brushstroke look like I was painting minis with my fingers? Shooting at a shallow DoF just doesn't look right and focal length doesn't seem to make much difference. Are you shooting with a macro lens?

It's tricky.

Two things definitely help tho;

A softer light source, be it a soft box, light tent, Chinese lantern modifier, hell even some sailcloth or wax paper helps. A pure bulb will over-emphasise roughness/brushstrokes, etc.

I find using a very long focal length is super helpful. It makes isolating your subject from the background, even with a fairly stopped down aperture possible.

Those shots are at 200mm on a full frame camera, f8(ish) and then cropped in. Macro lenses seem like a good idea, but unless you're a Spanish bust painter, investing hundreds of hours in your piece, its not going to do you any favours.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 13:33

Wolfsbane: Jul 29, 2009; What time is it, Eccles?

Nebalebadingdong posted:

look up kevin dallimore

it's just old school model painting with layers

- don't use washes
- don't wet blend
- mix the colors on your palette to produce subtler (but still visible) steps between each layer.
- you get diminishing returns on the number of layers, but you need at least 3

everyone's focus these days seems to be on having ultra smooth blends. it's impressive but not how i want to paint

here's some pirates painted by kevin dallimore:

this is what i aspire to. you can really see the layers and the black lines from the base coat poking through between color areas

Great to see someone else using Kevin Dallimore's style. I have his book, and there's some pretty great ideas and techniques there. This is what it looks like when someone much less talented does it:

Stole a scheme from the internet to paint up my old Van Saar. Sadly most of the models aren't usable now that lasers are required, but I'm sure I'll get some use out of them as the gang grows.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 16:07

Schadenboner: Aug 15, 2011; by Shine

Nebalebadingdong posted:

Rum, sodomy, the lash, and two thin coats.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 16:29

Winklebottom: Dec 19, 2007

The new GW paint and spray (stolen from Facebook)

The glow looks pretty nice

# ? Jul 10, 2020 16:30

Gameko: Feb 23, 2006; The friend of all children!

If you have the money games workshop can solve most problems with their goofy little technical paints and things.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 16:44

Vulpes Vulpes: Apr 28, 2013; "...for you, it is all over...!"

Typhus Corrosion and Nihilakh Oxide are super fun, I love gimmicky technical paints.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 17:19

Cat Face Joe: Feb 20, 2005; goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes

Winklebottom posted:

How does this work? Is it just a wash over silver? I'm not familiar with the technical line.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 17:22

Winklebottom: Dec 19, 2007

Cat Face Joe posted:

How does this work? Is it just a wash over silver? I'm not familiar with the technical line.

Depends on the paint, they all do something different. My guess with this one is that it�s a wash or contrast-like over white

# ? Jul 10, 2020 17:30

SiKboy: Oct 28, 2007; Oh no!😱

Yeah, looks a lot like a slightly yellower/more neon Hexwraith Flame to me, which I put on over white generally. I'm also a fan of GWs gimmicky technical paints. Hexwraith is great for magical flames or glowing green eyes, Nihilakh Oxide is great for both corroded copper/bronze and for ghosts, Typhus Corrosion is really effective for heavy weathering on metal in general, Blood for the Blood God is great for blood spatter (though of the ones I have its the one I get least use out of, because I don think heavy blood spatter suits the miniatures I've been painting in general since I picked it up, I prefer to have an "About to kill someone" vibe over a "Just killed someone" vibe. Still a good paint in its niche). None of them are necessary at all, but they are all pretty fun and can get a good effect with very little work.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 18:26

lenoon: Jan 7, 2010

I love the oxide technical. I know everyone says use it sparingly, a little goes a long way etc etc. Absolute bollocks. Slosh it on with a little medium. Get that copper dripping in it, gives it a wonderfully tarnished look that takes the shine off, pools in all the right places and is transparent enough to show that it�s still actually brass, bronze or copper. It even gives it a slightly textured look. Painting it over texture is even better. Verdigris is a very very strong colour, and oxide is perfect for it.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 19:10

PierreTheMime: Dec 9, 2004; Hero of hormagaunts everywhere!; Buglord

SiKboy posted:

Yeah, looks a lot like a slightly yellower/more neon Hexwraith Flame to me, which I put on over white generally. I'm also a fan of GWs gimmicky technical paints. Hexwraith is great for magical flames or glowing green eyes, Nihilakh Oxide is great for both corroded copper/bronze and for ghosts, Typhus Corrosion is really effective for heavy weathering on metal in general, Blood for the Blood God is great for blood spatter (though of the ones I have its the one I get least use out of, because I don think heavy blood spatter suits the miniatures I've been painting in general since I picked it up, I prefer to have an "About to kill someone" vibe over a "Just killed someone" vibe. Still a good paint in its niche). None of them are necessary at all, but they are all pretty fun and can get a good effect with very little work.

Yeah, it's basically the same concept as Hexwraith Flame but colored Moot Green instead of Warpstone Glow and perhaps ever slightly more viscous. I did a suuuper quick test of Hexwraith over Wraithbone and it came out like so:

You could probably water down the HF slightly to get a more muted effect on the lining.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 20:30

Gravitas Shortfall: Jul 17, 2007; Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.

I want a purple version of that glow, not sure whether to go for some thinned Shyish, or just a Druchii Violet wash

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jul 10, 2020

# ? Jul 10, 2020 21:51

BaronVanAwesome: Sep 11, 2001; I will never learn the secrets of "Increased fake female boar sp..."

Never say never, buddy.
Now you know.
Now we all know.

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

I want a purple version of that glow, not sure whether to go for some thinned Shyish, or just a Druchii Violet wash

Same but Orange - gonna experiment with old necrons this weekend and see how the gryph orange contrast turns out

# ? Jul 10, 2020 22:14

Funzo: Dec 6, 2002

I was thinking about a thinned Shyish for purple too. Or even a glaze out of Genestealer Purple or something.

# ? Jul 10, 2020 22:21

Cinara: Jul 15, 2007

Super bright glows like that are a great use case for fluorescent paints!

# ? Jul 10, 2020 22:26

Karnegal: Dec 24, 2005; Is it... safe?

Oh gently caress, a new technical paint? I've been using so much Typhus Corrosion and Nihilakh Oxide on my weathered Convergence army. Are there any early reviews of the glow one? I could very much be in the market for that for a different project.

# ? Jul 11, 2020 02:07

Moongrave: Jun 19, 2004; Finally Living Rent Free

the GW technicals are very cool and good and all of them have specific use cases but they're all insanely good for those things

# ? Jul 11, 2020 03:08

Grizzled Patriarch: Mar 27, 2014; These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.

Alright I think I'm finally gonna pull the trigger on an airbrush since when else am I ever going to have this much free time to figure them out. Gonna go with the Badger Patriot for the brush itself but can anyone recommend a budget-friendly compressor that is quiet enough for indoor use? And are there any other bits and pieces I need to order along with that? Can't remember if I read about them needing some special conversion threader to hook up to most compressor hoses or if that was another airbrush.

# ? Jul 11, 2020 06:27

TURGID TOMFOOLERY: Nov 1, 2019

Grizzled Patriarch posted:

Alright I think I'm finally gonna pull the trigger on an airbrush since when else am I ever going to have this much free time to figure them out. Gonna go with the Badger Patriot for the brush itself but can anyone recommend a budget-friendly compressor that is quiet enough for indoor use? And are there any other bits and pieces I need to order along with that? Can't remember if I read about them needing some special conversion threader to hook up to most compressor hoses or if that was another airbrush.

Mobile posting but the 40k thread just had a very comprehensive discussion about that topic.

Max Wilco posted:

What would you recommend for a compressor? I put together a quick list of everything to calculate the cost, and the compressor (the TC-40T, which I remember someone recommending in another thread) was $150, making it the most expensive item on the list.

Badger Patriot 105 - $120
TC-40T Compressor - $150
Vallejo Airbrush Thinner - $10
Iwata Airbrush Cleaner $12
Badger Stynylrez Primer - $15
Airhose Adapter for Badger - $8

Total - $315

That's more that the Contrast Range ($265.20), but that's probably due to my choices.

-

Here's a modified version with the Iwata and two cheap compressor I found on Amazon.

Follow the quote below to the 40k thread and read the next ~1.5 pages. Badger air brushes do need a special converter thing.

Campbell Hausfeld Air Compressor/PointZero 1/5 HP Airbrush Compressor - $75/$99
Iwata Eclipse - $169
Vallejo Airbrush Thinner - $10
Iwata Airbrush Cleaner $12
Badger Stynylrez Primer - $15

Total (w/ Campbell Hausfield) - $281
Total (w/ PointZero) - $305

# ? Jul 11, 2020 07:32

Grizzled Patriarch: Mar 27, 2014; These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.

TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:

Mobile posting but the 40k thread just had a very comprehensive discussion about that topic.

Awesome, this is exactly what I needed!

# ? Jul 11, 2020 15:31

Cthulu Carl: Apr 16, 2006

Painted up a Viking... Only took me like four months between getting it Mostly Done to putting on the finishing touches...

# ? Jul 11, 2020 20:02

Nebalebadingdong: Jun 30, 2005; i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

did some more painting

this dwarf mini is one i had painted before, i just changed the base and redid the hair

also some tiny furniture

Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 11, 2020

# ? Jul 11, 2020 22:40

PierreTheMime: Dec 9, 2004; Hero of hormagaunts everywhere!; Buglord

Just absolutely amazing work. It has made me incredibly nostalgic for HeroQuest, or at least whatever incorrect version of it myself and friends and I played.

Have you painted any of the original figures?

# ? Jul 11, 2020 23:05

Nebalebadingdong: Jun 30, 2005; i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

PierreTheMime posted:

Just absolutely amazing work. It has made me incredibly nostalgic for HeroQuest, or at least whatever incorrect version of it myself and friends and I played.

Have you painted any of the original figures?

long time ago, the paint jobs aren't that great. the minis are beautiful of course

random question: does anyone know of a 28mm goat-person miniature or conversion that looks friendly instead of scary?

# ? Jul 11, 2020 23:45

working mom: Jul 8, 2015

Nebalebadingdong posted:

long time ago, the paint jobs aren't that great. the minis are beautiful of course

random question: does anyone know of a 28mm goat-person miniature or conversion that looks friendly instead of scary?

Ungors probably look the least scary of the beastmen range

# ? Jul 11, 2020 23:53

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

Nebalebadingdong posted:

did some more painting

Please continue doing more painting, these own incredibly hard.

# ? Jul 12, 2020 01:15

R0ckfish: Nov 18, 2013

I got some more painting done this week, in this case some AI Tau and a Doomsday Ark!

# ? Jul 12, 2020 01:43

Gameko: Feb 23, 2006; The friend of all children!

Models look kewl but are a little dark to me, r0ckfish. Any chance you can repost them and up the brightness a bit?

# ? Jul 12, 2020 02:22

Moongrave: Jun 19, 2004; Finally Living Rent Free

Gameko posted:

Models look kewl but are a little dark to me, r0ckfish. Any chance you can repost them and up the brightness a bit?

I got you bro

# ? Jul 12, 2020 03:17

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Deep fried hams

# ? Jul 12, 2020 04:04

Skails: Feb 24, 2008; Born-In-Space

Wolfsbane posted:

Great to see someone else using Kevin Dallimore's style. I have his book, and there's some pretty great ideas and techniques there. This is what it looks like when someone much less talented does it:

Stole a scheme from the internet to paint up my old Van Saar. Sadly most of the models aren't usable now that lasers are required, but I'm sure I'll get some use out of them as the gang grows.

Nebalebadingdong posted:

look up kevin dallimore

it's just old school model painting with layers

- don't use washes
- don't wet blend
- mix the colors on your palette to produce subtler (but still visible) steps between each layer.
- you get diminishing returns on the number of layers, but you need at least 3

These are great looking paint jobs from you both, it's a cool style. Want to give it a try.

Are you building up a standard solid basecoat over black primer, then layering and generally just leaving a little black line of primer around changes in material?

Skails fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jul 12, 2020

# ? Jul 12, 2020 04:18

Nebalebadingdong: Jun 30, 2005; i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Skails posted:

Are you building up a standard solid basecoat over black primer, then layering and generally just leaving a little black line of primer around changes in material?

Yup. Prime black, base coat each "section" and leave a tiny black sliver between. I don't leave the black undercoat exposed to do shadows in folds of clothing, between fingers, etc., it's too harsh

# ? Jul 12, 2020 14:22