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Rode the DR for an hour and a half. Seat's pretty uncomfortable and the footpegs are definitely folding my legs up more than I want, but I ordered some lowering plates already so half that problem will be solved. I'm still more comfortable than on the intruder. I kinda thought the DR would be faster. It pulls like hell up to 100km/h and is awesome, but it's topping out at about 135km/h indicated downwind and 120km/h upwind which seems a long long way under the 160ish people are claiming on youtube.
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Jul 13, 2020 05:26
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At low speeds it's all about torque, weight and short gearing, the DR scores high on all those. At high speeds it's just aerodynamics and brute power so yeah. Tucking in + 2km worth of straight and those sorts of speeds are attainable, albeit terrifying. Also motard wheels make speedos over-read which I think contributes to people overestimating performance.
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Jul 13, 2020 06:12
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The DRZ400 will hit 100mph/160kmh if you have some patience. If your DR won’t do 135kmh I’d suspect something is up maybe with the fueling?
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Jul 13, 2020 06:19
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So... I made a bad mistake with the chain. I've never used these adjusters before, and what must have happened is I rotated the left side of the axle as well as the nut when I was doing it back up and didn't notice that I'd partially disengaged the snail cam. So I was riding with everything out of alignment. Not by much (two clicks), but fuuuuuuck I feel dumb. So I've sorted that out, doesn't seem to have damaged anything, and I was able to get to 145km/h one way on the highway and 125-130ish the other way. Since the bike had an aftermarket exhaust (currently off the bike, stock one's on), I'm wondering if the PO hosed around with the carb. It does seem to idle quite high when warmed up. I checked the airbox already and it's stock. He said he didn't do any carb work, but he also said he didn't gently caress around with the electrics and I've found two empty mystery plugs poking out from under the left side of the seat. e: Also, I'm not sure how accurate this speedo is, it was reading about 95km/h when I was riding in traffic that was, from experience, probably doing 100+. I had a look around and found the trailtech vapour which looks kinda neat, but I'm not sure if I'm allowed to remove my stock speedo given that it's also the odometer. Can you have both in place at once? Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Jul 13, 2020 |
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Jul 13, 2020 10:23
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You certainly can have both, the vapor runs off of a hall effect pickup reading the front disc and has a battery power supply (bike power/lighting optional) so it can be totally independent of the bike if you want it to. If it has an aftermarket pipe and no other modifications, it'll be a tiny bit down on power. It will also idle a little worse than usual due to running leaner than ideal, a lot of the time people just tweak the idle up to compensate for this but even in totally ideal conditions the bike will still idle a little faster than your Intruder does. I'll leave the details of the jetting changes necessary to others more familiar with the bike than me, they would be very small but on a low powered bike with crap aerodynamics that can still mean 10-15kmh difference. Check the valve clearances when you've got a chance, it's easy and can have a significant effect on the engine. Post pics of your mystery plugs; surplus connectors to nowhere is a common factory feature on lots of bikes for *reasons* but we'll be able to tell straight away if they belong there or not.
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Jul 13, 2020 12:28
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Many manufacturers use the same wiring harness throughout the world, so accessories like carb heaters that aren’t required in the US will still have leads on the harness on US bikes.
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Jul 13, 2020 12:49
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Yeah, the DR has two unused plugs. One is under the seat, the other is supposed to be up near the cluster though.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:26
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My Honda also has the 12V outlet pre-wired for her pleassure.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:35
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Just recently installed the Vapor, it works great and is easy to install if you follow the instructions. Be aware that if you delete the old odo and it has a gear drive at the wheel, you may have to get a spacer/blank to fill the gap.
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Jul 13, 2020 20:41
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Slavvy posted:You're confused here, you can't buy an endless chain anywhere afaik. A rivet type is still a master link, endless means it literally has no master link so if you somehow got one of those you really would need to take the swingarm out to replace it. From here: https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51546&rnd=07242017 you can still buy an endless chain for BMW's G650X. maxbmw posted:02 27 72 7 682 439 CHAIN - 112 3.99 1 $132.09ADD TO CART You do in fact have to remove the swingarm to install it, however, so I don't recommend it. Because it is dumb.
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Jul 13, 2020 20:57
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Did the valves. They were way off. So far off that I couldn't get a feeler into them (and the arms weren't moving also) when TDC on the compression stroke, which caused me to check and double check and second guess myself and gently caress around, so on top of that, not having the right sized hex drivers to get the covers off, and my valve tool having a defect that made it impossible to insert the square head bit into the other bit, the whole process took 3 hours and was extremely cursed. Valves are now in spec but I'm out of daylight, patience, and spare time today so no test ride, but the bike's back together and runs and sounds pretty fine, so yeah. Here are my mystery plugs. I'm holding the wiring for the one without the red cap. I don't know what they're for, but tell me what I can use them for and I'll use them.  e: Also there's no fuel filter between the tank and the carb. There should be one, right? e2: And of course I'm second guessing the gently caress out of myself still. Does this sound ok or have I now got everything too loose? I should have taken a vid before as well, but I'm an idiot. https://imgur.com/7ps8Uby Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jul 14, 2020 |
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Jul 14, 2020 08:14
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That sounds like you weren't on TDC + compression or something, that is definitely way way too loose and rattly. I can't remember if the DR has an auto decomp device but if so, you need to turn the engine just past that to get a 'real' measurement on the exhaust valves. The red plug looks like a battery tender plug and probably goes to the battery terminals. The other one looks like a similar thing or possibly heated grip/other accessory wiring. Neither are factory I don't think. You can stick an inline filter on there, it won't hurt anything. Most bikes have a mesh filter on the tank side of the petcock that does the job and just a plain hose to the carb, it's pretty normal.
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Jul 14, 2020 09:44
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OK, yeah, that's on me then. There's a T and a line just before it, I had it on the line, but it was definitely on the line. I thought it was the compression stroke. I watched the intake (rear) side go down, then up, then brought it to the line. What did I gently caress up? There's a point turning the engine where it kinda turns itself for a second. Is that the decomp thing?
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Jul 14, 2020 09:56
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If there's a hell, I fully expect it to be an eternity undertaking bike projects with only the wrong tools at my disposal. A chorus of demons cackles as I strip yet another JIS screw with a philips driver
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Jul 14, 2020 12:45
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:OK, yeah, that's on me then. Did you take out the spark plug? It turning itself could be from compression or from valve spring kickback, I recommend using a t-bar to turn it instead of a ratchet so you have control in both directions. It sounds like you did stuff in the right order, maybe you just left them too loose due to other errors, like: - the awkward layout/bending the gauge can make it seem like there's much more drag on the gauge/a smaller gap than there actually is. With screw adjusters I've found you want a firmer drag on the feeler than you'd expect - not keeping things tight and controlled before you do the locknut up, even small accidental movements can give you an unintentionally big gap - using the wrong units on the feelers Anyway keep calm and carry on, it's no big deal and how you learn this stuff. Go back in and check the gaps as they are, it should be moderately difficult to get the gauge in, if it slides around really easily they're too loose.
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Jul 14, 2020 13:44
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Yep, took the spark plugs out. There's every chance I hosed up doing the locknuts back up, but I think the likely problem is that I thought there was more drag than there was, because yeah, the hardest part was maneuvering the gauge into place. I definitely used the right units on the gauges. I'll try again tomorrow. Shouldn't take long now that I know which tools I need and how the tank comes off etc. Thanks again for all the advice.
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Jul 14, 2020 14:32
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There’s a timing inspection plug on the left (?) side of the engine somewhere. It should show you when the engine is at tdc for certain.
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Jul 14, 2020 14:47
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I overtightened my rear axle nut by 10 Nm, this should be fine, right? I put the torque wrench to 98 instead of 88...
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Jul 14, 2020 17:19
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I'm pretty sure that was the margin of error on the lovely twist-to-set I had before I bought my digital wrench.
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Jul 14, 2020 17:21
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SEKCobra posted:I overtightened my rear axle nut by 10 Nm, this should be fine, right? I put the torque wrench to 98 instead of 88... It's hosed chief edit: It's fine. Did you just back it off and reset it to 88 Nm?
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Jul 15, 2020 02:41
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That's only 12% over the spec and +/- 12% is not an issue. As noted, cheap torque wrenches probably aren't even calibrated accurately enough for that to matter. You won't break a bolt at 112% of rated torque. I forget which thread it was but you can watch that video I posted a few weeks back of the guy snapping multiple bolts off in his Ducati. He hits the rated torque, continues about a quarter turn past that, then another half turn, then another half turn, and then it finally breaks somewhere after that, at I'd guess like 400% of the spec. You're fine
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Jul 15, 2020 02:49
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OK, so I pulled everything apart again, found tdc by - rotating the engine and watching the intake rocker arm fall, then rise, then finding the next T line in the inspection port. The left side intake and left side exhaust valve were quite a bit too loose. I'd guess that in bending round the bike to try to get the gauge in I'd done it wrong. The other sides were loose but not too loose. But I readjusted all the the valves - the thickest gauge won't go in, the thinnest one goes in no problem, one halfway between the thickest and the thinnest drags a bit. In this case, that means Intake valve (rear of bike, carb side) 0.13mm doesn't go in, 0.08 goes in easily, 0.10 drags. Exhaust valve (front of bike, exhaust side) 0.22mm doesn't go it, 0.17 goes in easily, 0.20 drags. Yesterday: https://imgur.com/7ps8Uby Today: https://streamable.com/8pk43x I can still hear tapping, but it seems way less. I don't know how to judge if I've still got it hosed up. Is any tapping at all a problem? e: Do I need to adjust to the tightest end of the spec? If so I'll do that tonight after it cools back down. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jul 15, 2020 |
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Jul 15, 2020 03:55
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Sagebrush posted:That's only 12% over the spec and +/- 12% is not an issue. As noted, cheap torque wrenches probably aren't even calibrated accurately enough for that to matter. You won't break a bolt at 112% of rated torque. Oh yeah I saw that and I'm not worried about the screw shearing off at all, hell I already figured 10 Nm should be way too small a tolerance to really matter, but I'm still mad at loving up such an avoidable mistake.
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Jul 15, 2020 05:16
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:OK, so I pulled everything apart again, found tdc by - rotating the engine and watching the intake rocker arm fall, then rise, then finding the next T line in the inspection port. Slappy valves are happy valves. Adjust to the loosest end of spec, they tighten up over time, and a tight valve does more potential damage than a loose one.
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Jul 15, 2020 05:42
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Slappy valves are happy valves. Adjust to the loosest end of spec, they tighten up over time, and a tight valve does more potential damage than a loose one. In my experience rocker arm type bikes tend to have clearances that get bigger over time because the striker wears faster than the valve can recess but it depends how you ride. Anyway that video sounds still a little loose but acceptable.
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Jul 15, 2020 06:06
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Ok, cool, I might see if I can tighten everything a bit more tomorrow once the bike cools down. Just went for a ride and it feels like it's running better. Also holy poo poo doing low speed stuff on this thing is easy compared to the intruder. Being low gave me confidence but the DR is like not even trying. It's also way better to ride on dirt roads even with the highway tires. I assume this is all down to geometry?
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Jul 15, 2020 07:43
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Ok, cool, I might see if I can tighten everything a bit more tomorrow once the bike cools down. Just went for a ride and it feels like it's running better. Jommetry, wheels, linkage rear suspension are the big ones.
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Jul 15, 2020 08:48
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Makes sense. Also, the difference in the suspension is night and day between the intruder and the stock DR, and night and day again between the stock DR and this. One of the roads I ride regularly was just continuous sharp bumps on the intruder, and the occasional jolt that felt like it was trying to kick my rear end up through my chest, one of which would always make me actually go "aaugh!" if I forgot to move toward the middle of the road because it was less sharp there. My DR just kind of gently rises and falls on that road. The seat's definitely hard and narrow but it's a nicer ride. I'm very very enthusiastic about this bike, it's so much more fun. Now I gotta try to sell the intruder.
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Jul 15, 2020 09:40
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Slavvy posted:In my experience rocker arm type bikes tend to have clearances that get bigger over time because the striker wears faster than the valve can recess but it depends how you ride. Anyway that video sounds still a little loose but acceptable. Interesting, I'd never considered that. Every time I've done valves so far, there's been at least 1/4 of them tighter than spec, and all toward the tight end of spec, but I think I've only done them 3 times. All the more reason to check when you're supposed to, I guess. Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Makes sense.
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Jul 15, 2020 16:44
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Quick and exceptionally stupid question: I bought a big thing of oil, it's Motul 10w40, it's JASO MA-2 rated, but it's API SM where the manual specifies "SG or higher". SM is "higher" than SG, right?
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Jul 16, 2020 08:05
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Yeah SG is an old rear end standard, SM supercedes it.
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Jul 16, 2020 10:23
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Thanks, I thought I'd understood it properly but I've been second guessing myself all day. I rode the intruder to get the oil. I'm gonna have to figure out luggage for the DR, because I can't go back to that thing.
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Jul 16, 2020 12:15
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I just got my first bike, a 2011 cbr250r. It's in good condition, 6000 miles, with a few scratches on the fairing and muffler. The previous owner had it for about 600 miles and never did any maintenance, though. Apart from regular maintenance items like oil and air filter, the chain is rusty enough that I want to replace it. While I'm doing this, is it worth spending the extra money and getting a lighter rear sprocket at the same time?
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Jul 23, 2020 03:56
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A lighter rear sprocket could mean a less durable rear sprocket. Either way it won't benefit you. Replace both sprockets with the chain. I really like JT sprockets for oem replacements. Grats on the bike! Put new tires on it, too.
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Jul 23, 2020 04:31
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Glass of Milk posted:I just got my first bike You're about to have so much fun.
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Jul 23, 2020 04:48
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Glass of Milk posted:I just got my first bike, a 2011 cbr250r. It's in good condition, 6000 miles, with a few scratches on the fairing and muffler. The previous owner had it for about 600 miles and never did any maintenance, though. Total, utter waste of time and also false economy. Get normal JT/DID stuff, learn what the gently caress a corner is before thinking about """upgrades""".
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Jul 23, 2020 06:05
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Slavvy posted:Total, utter waste of time and also false economy. Get normal JT/DID stuff, learn what the gently caress a corner is before thinking about """upgrades""". I figured there's just as much snake oil in the motorcycle world as there is in the car world. Step one is making sure the chain doesn't break, however.
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Jul 23, 2020 08:10
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If those are the original tyres (and they probably are) changing them is definitely something to do at the same time.
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Jul 23, 2020 11:41
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Glass of Milk posted:I just got my first bike, a 2011 cbr250r. It's in good condition, 6000 miles, with a few scratches on the fairing and muffler. The previous owner had it for about 600 miles and never did any maintenance, though. I'd recommend swapping both sprockets if you're replacing a lovely chain, but if it's truly just rusty and hasn't done hundreds of miles in that condition, it'll be fine. just inspect the sprockets to see if they're sharkfinning and if they're not, just leave em
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Jul 23, 2020 13:17
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Carth Dookie posted:If those are the original tyres (and they probably are) changing them is definitely something to do at the same time. Fortunately not. They're from 2017. I took it to a shop my friend who races goes to and they said tires were in good condition.
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Jul 24, 2020 03:45
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