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abelwingnut posted:yea, i don't have a garbage disposal. it's a bit better today so maybe the vinegar and baking soda slowly did something. i'll buy some more and see if it keeps getting better. otherwise, i'll explore cleaning the trap. i would just need a way to remove the trap, not sure if i have the tool for it. but yea, i'll figure that out later. PainterOfCrap's technique can potentially clean the trap without requiring disassembling it. It's worth trying; all you need is a way to stop up the sink while you fill it.
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Jul 11, 2020 16:47
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yea, trying that now. doesn't seem to be helping, but i'll try a few more times.
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Jul 11, 2020 17:22
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eddiewalker posted:I see through holes. Cut the legs off a resistor and use those to jumper. Does it matter what Ohm value I use for the resistor?
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Jul 12, 2020 00:59
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Tortilla Maker posted:Does it matter what Ohm value I use for the resistor? No, the legs are just wire, and any piece of wire works. You don't want to use the resisty part, the point is to let the electrons flow from hole to hole there.
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Jul 12, 2020 01:09
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Rexxed posted:No, the legs are just wire, and any piece of wire works. You don't want to use the resisty part, the point is to let the electrons flow from hole to hole there. Got it. Thanks. Cut the legs off and soldered the pair in place per the diagram but only getting sound out of one speaker when connected and turned on. lol
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Jul 12, 2020 01:50
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Make sure there isn't a solder bridge between the top/bottom points. It's a double pole switch so there are 6 connections:code:
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Jul 12, 2020 02:12
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I've got a small mould problem in my garage. I've had a piece of unsanded, unpainted plywood hanging on this brick wall that I use to store tools. I noticed today it had a bunch of mould in the top right corner, which wouldn't normally get any natural light. I assume the backside of the plywood is probably also covered, but i haven't checked yet. Nothing else in the garage appears to have mould on it. Here's a photo of the main area but after I cleaned it, and some other bits of wood that were attached that show the undisturbed mould.    This is all may be caused by a roof leak about 2m away from this plywood the owner refuses to fix. Or it could just be because we are going through an exceptionally cold and wet winter. My question is, can I salvage this plywood? My plan is to: 1. Take down the sheet 2. Use vinegar (or bleach?) to saturate the wood in the affected areas, then let it try back out 3. Sand it all back so its not super rough like it is now 4. Use some old latex primer + paint to seal it up a bit to hopefully prevent it from happening again. Should this work? Or is the mould just as likely to come back? My city is in total lockdown so I'm not able to visit a store to get another piece, and plywood is expensive, so I'd love to save it if I can.
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Jul 12, 2020 03:01
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That'll more than take care of it. Hitting it with a 2% bleach solution alone would do it.
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Jul 12, 2020 03:36
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Tortilla Maker posted:Got it. Thanks. Well I undid my work and started over, this time soldering the wires at the two 'blue' jumper connections. The good news is that sound is coming out of the other ('blue') speaker. The bad news is that sound only comes from one speaker still. Am I supposed to do one 'red' and one 'blue' connection? Rather than two red or two blue? See:  Instructions: https://jade.wtf/tech-notes/makie-cr4-switch/ Nevets posted:Make sure there isn't a solder bridge between the top/bottom points. It's a double pole switch so there are 6 connections: I'm not sure what you mean. The instruction/diagram shows 4 connections (either 2 'red' or 2 'blue' jumps)?
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Jul 12, 2020 03:54
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PainterofCrap posted:That'll more than take care of it. Fantastic, thanks! I'll give that a shot. Hopefully the rear side isn't too bad :S
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Jul 12, 2020 04:25
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Tortilla Maker posted:I'm not sure what you mean. The instruction/diagram shows 4 connections (either 2 'red' or 2 'blue' jumps)? You want to make sure you don't have a little bit of solder connecting any of the 6 points on the board to each other. The top and bottom rows are very close together so it's very easy to accidentally 'bridge' the gap between two of the points when trying to attach the jumpers. Can you post a photo?
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Jul 12, 2020 11:43
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How much should it cost to have a roofer put tar over nails in the roof shingles on a mid-size single family home? I think this does not need to be done on every single shingle, just a few rows (near the top?) with exposed nails, do the way layers of shingles cover each other.
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Jul 12, 2020 14:59
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pmchem posted:How much should it cost to have a roofer put tar over nails in the roof shingles on a mid-size single family home? Your ridge cap should cover the nails in the top row of shingles. How is yours set up such that there are exposed nails?
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Jul 12, 2020 15:08
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tactlessbastard posted:Your ridge cap should cover the nails in the top row of shingles. How is yours set up such that there are exposed nails? I don't really know what I'm talking about, I think I misspoke. From the inspection report: "There are exposed fasteners throughout the roofing field. We recommend they be sealed with roofing tar."
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Jul 12, 2020 15:38
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and here's the relevant part of the report:
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Jul 12, 2020 15:43
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pmchem posted:and here's the relevant part of the report: Not sure what roofers charge in your area but thats no more than two tubes of tar and an hour's work. Unfortunate that it needs done, though. That's sloppy as hell.
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Jul 12, 2020 15:50
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pmchem posted:and here's the relevant part of the report: That looks like your standard nail-pops. I'm assuming your roof is 15+ years old. It's common for this to happen as the roof heats and cools and the expansion and contraction pushes the nails though the shingle that originally covered them. As others mentioned, this is a $2 tube of roof cement (black tar goo), a hammer to drive them down again, and a few minutes of time. The roof cement usually only lasts a few years, so it's basic maintenance on an older roof. Eventually, the roof needs to be replaced, but if this fixes leaks, you can get a few more years out of it.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:57
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I need something to lock a mechanical timer to its plugged in device sort of like a lock box for a thermostat. Do those exist or will I have to get one 3d printed?
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Jul 13, 2020 00:58
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Azuth0667 posted:I need something to lock a mechanical timer to its plugged in device sort of like a lock box for a thermostat. Do those exist or will I have to get one 3d printed? Depending on the size of the timer, you may be able to find an in-use cover that works. I'm pretty sure a good number of them are lockable, like this one for example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TAYMAC-1-Gang-16-in-1-2-3-4-in-D-Weatherproof-In-Use-Cover-Clear-MM420C/302216014
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Jul 13, 2020 01:02
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Couldn't find the audio thread, using small words can anyone say whether I can splice these into the door speaker wiring of my Panda? It doesn't have tweeters at the moment.
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Jul 13, 2020 14:10
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Nevets posted:You want to make sure you don't have a little bit of solder connecting any of the 6 points on the board to each other. The top and bottom rows are very close together so it's very easy to accidentally 'bridge' the gap between two of the points when trying to attach the jumpers. Can you post a photo? Thanks for clarifying. I'm just really bad at soldering. Removed and reapplied, several times. The time I managed to get sound out of one of the speakers it was slightly fuzzy. Hopefully I haven't fried this circuit board section with my constant mess ups?  
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Jul 13, 2020 14:58
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Uh, that can be fixed, but maybe find someone who can solder to do it. I’d run longer jumper wires between other points on the same net.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:23
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Yeah, unfortunately it looks like you may have had your iron too hot or used alot of force pushing things around, the pads on those traces are completely worn away. Like yippee cashier says you want to follow the traces back to other pads and carefully solder jumpers to them. Since the other pads are going to be further away you'll want something other than bare wire so nothing shorts on the board.
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Jul 13, 2020 17:05
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Find a board in something that you should have thrown away and practice on it. You never need to press hard with the iron, and it needs to be just hot enough to flow the solder. What gauge solder are you using? It should be pretty darn thin. If this is bic-pen thickness solder and a monster solder gun like you would use in a car or whatever you're going to need to be very careful. You might literally have better luck with a small butane brulee torch.
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Jul 13, 2020 19:10
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 Changing out hardware on my cabinet doors and the old knobs left a dented ring around the screw hole. It is visible with the new handles because they don't cover it up. Is there anyway to fix this so that it's not noticeable?
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Jul 14, 2020 02:43
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anaaki posted:
Cleaning and oiling/waxing the dented rings might make them less noticeable. You could make a matching wood or metal plate that mounts between the handle and the cabinet, spanning between the posts, that covers the holes. You could go to McMaster Carr and look for a matching-finish washer or spacer that has an inner diameter that fits the screw and an outer diameter that covers the dents.
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Jul 14, 2020 03:30
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TacoHavoc posted:Depending on the size of the timer, you may be able to find an in-use cover that works. I'm pretty sure a good number of them are lockable, like this one for example: This worked, thanks.
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Jul 14, 2020 04:55
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anaaki posted:
It’s a bit hard to tell in the photo but are the fibers of wood physically cut on the edge of the hole, or are they just bent? If they are just bent you can steam the wood with a damp cloth + iron. Might be worth a shot even if the fibers are severed since it would make at least some of it less noticable. Just take it easy and don’t try and do it all in one go.
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Jul 15, 2020 05:02
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abelwingnut posted:yea, trying that now. doesn't seem to be helping, but i'll try a few more times. We have the same thing. Happened immediately after getting a garbage disposal installed, new pipes and P trap installed and even a cleanout. It only happens when the water runs as opposed to when the water is off indicating it's not a dried P trap. Just had ANOTHER $200 cleanout the other day and it worked for all of a day and the smell was immediately back.
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Jul 15, 2020 16:31
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I'm moving into a home with wooden flooring. There aren't any big scratches or marks, but I have dogs and cats and I would like to protect the floor just in case they vomit or have an accident. Do I absolutely have to sand the floor before applying a clear coat? I would also love some recommendations about which type of coat to use to protect. I am worried one of my cats will throw up after I go to work and I won't see it until too late, leaving a permanent stain on the floor. How do I prevent this from happening?
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Jul 16, 2020 13:52
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If you are buying a new house--that is the perfect time to refinish the floors. The basic idea is a crew comes in and sands off the finish that is currently on the floor. Repairs any issues. Restains. And re-urethanes. The sanding of the floor makes a huge mess--if you can do it with no furniture or window treatments in the house you are ahead of the game. The urethane will need a day to cure smell for a few days. In our area it is about $2 a sqft to refinish.
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Jul 16, 2020 16:58
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For fucks sake the 1 year old smoke alarm in my office was chirping this morning. After a few minutes of "oh no I'm going to have to RMA it or the hardwire has failed or or or" I pull it down and they installed the wrong loving one. It has a 9V battery and I specified in the bid (and in the contract) a 10-year lithium.  I know there are several types, what is the "correct" one from Kiddie (hoping to re-use the bracket...please stop laughing)? Smoke, hardwired, 10year "lifetime" battery are the requirements. It's a detached office in back of a detached garage. It is not plumbed for natural gas.
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Jul 16, 2020 18:25
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update: so had a plumber come by. he said there wasn't anything wrong with the pipes that he could tell. he ended up replacing the pipe directly under the sink as it was in bad shape. in any case, the thing still smells. i called him up, and he's now telling me it could be the waste line from the dishwasher. it connects to the sink piping a few inches under the sink basin. i've pulled up the filters from the dishwasher, and there's a little pool of standing water underneath them. that...doesn't seem right to me. as these filters cover the entrance to the waste line within the dishwasher, does this suggest i have a clog in the waste line? if so, how best do i proceed? should i try the baking soda and vinegar trick here? do i need a snake of some sort? sorry if this is dumb! never done anything like this. e:  not sure how visible it is, but there's a pool of water about a 1/2" deep above the entrance to the waste line. is that normal? abelwingnut fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Jul 16, 2020 |
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Jul 16, 2020 19:15
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H110Hawk posted:For fucks sake the 1 year old smoke alarm in my office was chirping this morning. After a few minutes of "oh no I'm going to have to RMA it or the hardwire has failed or or or" I pull it down and they installed the wrong loving one. It has a 9V battery and I specified in the bid (and in the contract) a 10-year lithium. I juuust had to get a Kidde 10 year sealed one get replaced after less than 1 year of use. Fucker went off mid-day and would not shut up. The only way to stop it was to break the tab and flip teh switch to kill it. They're sending me a new one.. and thank god it wasn't 3am kuz that would have sucked more.
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Jul 16, 2020 20:02
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tater_salad posted:I juuust had to get a Kidde 10 year sealed one get replaced after less than 1 year of use. Fucker went off mid-day and would not shut up. The only way to stop it was to break the tab and flip teh switch to kill it. They're sending me a new one.. and thank god it wasn't 3am kuz that would have sucked more. The ones in my house (4 of em) are going fine 4.5 years later. I didn't pay attention to which "type" of smoke alarm it is and I can never remember which is "correct." Luck of the draw on lot codes I imagine for those lithium batteries. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC5SX98/
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Jul 16, 2020 20:10
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H110Hawk posted:The ones in my house (4 of em) are going fine 4.5 years later. I didn't pay attention to which "type" of smoke alarm it is and I can never remember which is "correct." Luck of the draw on lot codes I imagine for those lithium batteries. this wasn't the 18650 battery this was the detector itself goin crazy
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Jul 16, 2020 20:12
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I had a similar issue with a carbon monoxide detector. Thing kept screeching at me and the noise was giving me a headache and making me dizzy so I had to take the batteries out.
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Jul 16, 2020 20:23
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The 10 year lithium battery that came with my smoke detector was shaped like a regular 9v battery, but had lithium printed on it.
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Jul 16, 2020 21:04
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Flipperwaldt posted:The 10 year lithium battery that came with my smoke detector was shaped like a regular 9v battery, but had lithium printed on it. To further blow your mind it's just 6 aaaa batteries in larger package. It depends on the battery though. Some are just made to fit in regular alkaline form factors.
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Jul 16, 2020 21:16
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canyoneer posted:I had a similar issue with a carbon monoxide detector. Thing kept screeching at me and the noise was giving me a headache and making me dizzy so I had to take the batteries out. Oh yeah those things go off all the time when I'm grilling inside too I took all mine down. The one I was having issues with was just smoke and nothing was on fire or smoking.
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Jul 16, 2020 21:18
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