|
canyoneer posted:I had a similar issue with a carbon monoxide detector. Thing kept screeching at me and the noise was giving me a headache and making me dizzy so I had to take the batteries out. Uhhhhh
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2020 22:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 07:33 |
|
|
canyoneer posted:I had a similar issue with a carbon monoxide detector. Thing kept screeching at me and the noise was giving me a headache and making me dizzy so I had to take the batteries out. Is that a throwback to the famous 'reddit saved my life' thread or you are dead serious?
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2020 23:46
|
|
|
hambeet posted:Uhhhhh AntherUslessPoster posted:Is that a throwback to the famous 'reddit saved my life' thread or you are dead serious? Oh good grief, y'all
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2020 23:58
|
|
|
Comedy in my dead gay forums... Well I'd never
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 01:06
|
|
|
abelwingnut posted:update: Yes there should be a small pool of water in there that comes to justttt above that rubber gasket. This is to keep the gaskets and everything in there from dry-rotting. I went through this exact same thing a year ago. Only our water was coming up a little too far above the basket thing (that you've removed.. .my washer looks exactly like yours). What you don't see is a grate and motor down there that pumps the water out when needed. Our motor wasn't running too right because it had a string around part of it so it was pumping very weakly. I was able to remove some of it with my hand (goddamn it's hard to get down in there) and it's worked fine since then. Yours doesn't look to be too deep. Can't quite tell. But now you got my interest piqued that our smell might too be related to the washer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 14:31
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:To further blow your mind it's just 6 aaaa batteries in larger package. Most regular ol' 9volts have six 1.5V cells in them too. Not quite the same size as AAAAs though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 15:19
|
|
|
I have these tasks to do on my new home. Apply protective coating for the wooden floors, paint the walls myself, hire a professional painter for the areas I can't do myself (high vaulted ceilings in some areas), maid service for a deep clean, and professional carpet cleaning. Which order should they be done for the most seamless transition? I am thinking about painting what I can, hiring a painter, scheduling the deep clean with the maid, hiring the carpet cleaners, then applying protective coating. Does that sound about right? I have pets, so I'd like to get as much done as possible before they come to the new house.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 15:45
|
|
|
Personally I'd say reverse the painting so you can touch up any bits you aren't happy with after the professionals have been through.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 16:09
|
|
|
The protective coating on the wood floors probably requires sanding so I think you'd actually want to do that first then painting after wiping down the walls and ceilings and then have the maid service clean at the end of it all.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 16:34
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:The protective coating on the wood floors probably requires sanding so I think you'd actually want to do that first then painting after wiping down the walls and ceilings and then have the maid service clean at the end of it all.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 16:46
|
|
|
If the floors are in decent shape and don't need restained they don't really need to be sanded all the way down. They can just be scuff-sand to rough up the existing urethane a bit so the new stuff can adhere properly. You wouldn't want to skip sanding completely though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 18:26
|
|
|
We've got some poison ivy growing in our front yard, a couple of young stalks in a small patch. What are your tips and tricks for removing it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2020 21:39
|
|
|
Akbar posted:We've got some poison ivy growing in our front yard, a couple of young stalks in a small patch. What are your tips and tricks for removing it? Gloves and make sure you get the roots out
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 00:08
|
|
|
Burn all clothes you used to touch it. My friend got poison ivy once and he got a few flare-ups after touching stuff that touched it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 00:16
|
|
|
You can buy creams/wipes that will help prevent the poison ivy reaction, we use them all the time for work. Burning your clothes is a bit much I think, just take them off right after and wash with hot water and detergent on the heavy duty setting.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 00:30
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Burn all clothes you used to touch it. My friend got poison ivy once and he got a few flare-ups after touching stuff that touched it. Burning poison ivy or anything it's touched is the last thing you want to do. The oils that cause the reaction can persist in the smoke and you don't want to breathe that poo poo in. As for getting rid of it, I'm pretty sure you can kill it with glyphosate based weed killers, though you may have to get a special ivy/brush version because of how oily the leaves are.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 00:31
|
|
|
IvyX. Buy it. Use it. gently caress poison ivy right in its stupid face. (I have some right now because I didn't use my IvyX.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 00:33
|
|
|
Khizan posted:As for getting rid of it, I'm pretty sure you can kill it with glyphosate based weed killers, though you may have to get a special ivy/brush version because of how oily the leaves are. Yep, glyphosate weed killers work well. We have a formulation specifically for “woody stemmed weeds” which has been doing great at knocking down both the Virginia creeper and the poison ivy on our fence.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 00:43
|
|
|
Thanks all!
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 04:25
|
|
|
Do not burn it. Shower promptly after loving with it. I don’t get a reaction to it, but my stepdad was nearly hospitalized after burning some random brush that had poison I’ve inside
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 04:28
|
|
|
Yeah, after dealing with a lot of poison ivy over the years it sucks. When washing up pay attention to your wrists. I'm very susceptible to it. If I get it, I just bite the bullet and head to the clinic for a cortisone shot in the hip.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 12:46
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
The Bandit posted:Do not burn it. Shower promptly after loving with it. We were on a camping trip once when I was in high school and my little brother brought like 5 of his friends a long. We ended up accidentally burning some poison sumac or oak or something and for like a month afterwards we were all hosed. I didn't breath it in but I had it on my arms so bad (and I've gotten poison ivy hundreds of times before - I itch and stuff but it's not the end of the world) that I had this like 7 inch x 4 inch giant pussy open wound area on my arm. It was the worst. Several kids breathed it in and got it in their eyes and one had to be hospitalized for a day or two about a week later. poo poo is terrible.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 14:33
|
|
|
Not sure if it is a wive's tale or not--but always been told to wash up with cold water after exposure to poison ivy/oak/sumac to keep your pores from opening.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 17:11
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:Not sure if it is a wive's tale or not--but always been told to wash up with cold water after exposure to poison ivy/oak/sumac to keep your pores from opening. Tecnu is great stuff too if you're exposed. Invented to wash off radioactive material!
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 17:21
|
|
|
I've had good luck just washing with dishwashing soap, like Dawn or whatnot. The chemical that causes the reaction is an oil, so things that remove oils will be helpful.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 17:54
|
|
|
I wonder if brake cleaner would work.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 19:11
|
|
|
Apologies for starting a storm. What I meant was: Be careful after pulling it out make sure to vigerously wash your poo poo and your body.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 20:58
|
|
|
Working on re-sealing the shower in our master bath. Last time I did the caulk, I didn't smooth out the lines well enough, so there were some dents for water to get stuck in and mildew started growing despite our best efforts to clean it. The bathroom is also internal to our home, so it doesn't dry out that well unless you leave the fan running long after showering. I've done two other showers since then with (I think) better results, so I'm hoping I won't gently caress this one up. I know you're primarily supposed to use silicone caulk. However, the one thing I've learned is that removing silicone caulk is an enormous pain in the rear end. I don't use mineral spirits since the ventilation in the room is terrible, which makes it harder. So if I screw this one up, I'd like to use something that's a little easier to pull up if I have to. We're looking to move sometime after Americans stop sharing Covid like candy, so it shouldn't need to last for 10 years, and I may end up replacing it again just before we move. I had bought some DAP Kwik-Seal, but it's apparently garbage for showers from the reviews I've read, so I'll probably be returning it for something else. Any recommendations for non-silicone alternatives to use? Major brands you can get at Lowe's or Home Depot would be ideal, since those are the only hardware stores nearby and I'd rather not wait for shipping so I can get this done sooner. edit: Cleaning seal around the tub isn't that bad; it's the seam under the tub and along the wall where I have to scrape it off the tiny ceramic tiles and grout on the floor that's causing me grief. Jacquismo fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jul 18, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 21:31
|
|
|
Hey all, looking at putting down VCT for flooring in my kitchen for the vintage checkerboard look. I’m going with Armstrong brand so I’m looking at the adhesives they offer. It looks like the S-750 will allow me to apply and then lay tile in the quickest time, but I’m curious about the full cure time. I’m doing this in my current kitchen so I need to move things like the stove and fridge around while I tile sections of the room, what is the full cure time I am looking at? I see 24-48hr mentioned but nothing in the product data sheet. Are there any adhesives that would give me a quicker cure time in order to get things replaced sooner?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 21:52
|
|
|
Jacquismo posted:I know you're primarily supposed to use silicone caulk. However, the one thing I've learned is that removing silicone caulk is an enormous pain in the rear end. I don't use mineral spirits since the ventilation in the room is terrible, which makes it harder. So if I screw this one up, I'd like to use something that's a little easier to pull up if I have to. We're looking to move sometime after Americans stop sharing Covid like candy, so it shouldn't need to last for 10 years, and I may end up replacing it again just before we move. IMO, use mineral spirits and wear a respirator with activated carbon filters, something like these things. That sounds way easier to me than trying to use a tool that isn't adapted to the job. Note that those cartridges don't last forever; they wear out from exposure to air. Keep them in a sealed plastic bag when not in use. You'll know they need to be replaced because you'll start to smell fumes again even with the respirator on. Having said all that, I've had catridges last over a year in storage.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 21:55
|
|
|
Jacquismo posted:Working on re-sealing the shower in our master bath. Last time I did the caulk, I didn't smooth out the lines well enough, so there were some dents for water to get stuck in and mildew started growing despite our best efforts to clean it. The bathroom is also internal to our home, so it doesn't dry out that well unless you leave the fan running long after showering. To remove the silicone--soften it a bit with rubbing alcohol or wd40, then use a longer, flexible blade (https://www.homedepot.com/p/ANVIL-18-mm-and-9-mm-Snap-Off-Knife-Set-2-Piece-86-212-0111/303711777) and some sanding/buffing to get the stuff off. e: Use silicone...not wanting to use it because it lasts too long/sticks too well probably isn't the best reason to not use it....imho
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 00:00
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:e: Use silicone...not wanting to use it because it lasts too long/sticks too well probably isn't the best reason to not use it....imho Agreed, I tried a couple others before knowing what I was doing and they lasted months at best in a wet shower environment. Silicone has held up for 4 years now.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 00:27
|
|
|
I've been installing gutter gaurds on my house and I'm on the last 20 feet out of 70. The first 50 feet took like 5 minutes a section to wedge a putty knife / prybar under the shingles to slide the gaurd underneath. Now it's taking like 45 minutes per section because there's just so much stinking tar keeping things together. Is there a trick to getting in between, like heating up my putty knife or something?
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 01:53
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Agreed, I tried a couple others before knowing what I was doing and they lasted months at best in a wet shower environment. Silicone has held up for 4 years now. I've heard of people using waterproof construction adhesive which is more like a mastic, but if you mess that up you will never get it off. Also if you need to run the fan literally 24/7 to dry out the room do that, you don't want damp and mould in your internal bathroom.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 08:50
|
|
|
I accidentally dropped a jar of salsa and it chipped our quartz countertop. Is there an easy way to fix this?
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 15:54
|
|
|
Tequila25 posted:I accidentally dropped a jar of salsa and it chipped our quartz countertop. Is there an easy way to fix this? I've heard you can take the chip out, and put a thin layer of epoxy in the divot, then shove the chip back in. and use a finger or paper towel to get rid of the excess that squeezes out. I've got something similar on granite counter top, and am planning on trying the same when I stop being a lazy sack of poo poo about it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 16:58
|
|
|
I’m back with more woeful issues with my house! The attic of my house is “finished” with drywall, flooring, as well as air conditioning. Since the house was built in 1929, it’s all retrofitted. The AC system for the second and third floors is also housed here in a closet, which is where I’m seeing issues. The drywall appears to be splitting where the ceiling peaks. As you can see in the photos below, large chips of paint are falling off and the drywall has a visible crack where it meets a center beam/rib in the ceiling. When I place my hand against the drywall, it’s noticeably warm and also easily moved. I’m pretty sure I have a hot roof but I’m not 100% sure. Whatever is going on, it’s causing some mold growth as seen below. For what it’s worth, my chimney, which is off to the right of this room, has quite a few issues, including leaks, that are being fixed in the next week. The chimney isn’t directly adjacent to all of this however (if it matters). Can I just caulk or otherwise seal this crack at the peak or is a more thorough repair needed?    These next photos are in the main space where there are similar issues, just not as bad.  
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 15:45
|
|
|
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it appears that the drywall is installed, probably with a layer of insulation that isn't doing much, tight up against the underside of the roof. There are temperature variations between the roof deck and the inner space (the surface of the drywall). This difference results in condensation forming on the cooler surfaces (i.e., the back side of the drywall). Without air circulation and a place for built-up moisture to go, it is soaking into the drywall & insulation. Your roof structure needs to 'breathe.' In order to properly address this, all of the drywall has to come down, foam W-pan needs to be fitted up against the underside of the roof deck (to create airflow between the roof peak & the soffit, as well as to channel condensation down to the soffit, & out). The roof will need a ridge vent installed. This will allow air to be taken in at the soffit & ejected at the ridge. This will have the added benefit of cooling the roof deck somewhat. Once that is addressed, you can install insulation against the W-pan, and then new drywall, preferably on the exposed edges of the roof joists.. If you do nothing the wood framing and decking will (continue to) rot. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Jul 20, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 15:58
|
|
|
I feared something like that, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 16:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 07:33 |
|
|
How the gently caress did any of you figure poo poo out before Youtube was a thing? I vaguely remember going with my dad to hardware stores and him chatting up the old "retired" workers to talk through a fix, but I love that I can just type in a bunch of keywords and get tutorials right off the bat. I wonder if people still do that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 17:04
|
|