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jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


a watered down PVA coating is a really good idea if you’re planning to drybrush as well as wash the bases though. If washing makes them look good enough, then yeah the final varnish will do as good a job

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Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Does anyone have experience painting nihilakh oxide on black terrain? I just picked up a bottle and I've never used it before. I just finished building the bascilicanum (it's so big :swoon: ) and it looks like GW used it sparingly on the box art, but it's not listed on the box.

From the few videos I've seen on it, it seems like you just paint it on like a wash, but then wipe it off with dry paper towel. Is it really that simple?

TKIY
Nov 6, 2012
Grimey Drawer
Hallo paint thread.

I've been really making an effort to step up my painting game and I think I'm getting better. I'm at the point where I really need brushes that will hold a point and the army painter stuff I'm using is only okay.

It's it still Series 7 or bust for brushes or are there other options to consider?

And for your review, some of the Necrons I'm working on:



Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

I've been travelling for the past few weeks so I guess as a way of scratching that itch I've been making lots of dubious deals on second hand ebay models.

For my wallet's sake and I need to get home to my giant and expanding pile of second hand plastic.

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

Finished the last model from my start collecting set at long last.



tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



That is super crisp and good I love it.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Kabuki Shipoopi posted:

Does anyone have experience painting nihilakh oxide on black terrain? I just picked up a bottle and I've never used it before. I just finished building the bascilicanum (it's so big :swoon: ) and it looks like GW used it sparingly on the box art, but it's not listed on the box.

From the few videos I've seen on it, it seems like you just paint it on like a wash, but then wipe it off with dry paper towel. Is it really that simple?

Its super simple. Either paint it into recesses or shotgun it on and wipe off what you dont want. I'm not sure what you mean by black terrain, its a verdigris effect so it'd normally go on over brass/bronze/copper (although its a super easy way of doing ghostly effects too). If you are just using it for general corrosion and discolouration I'm sure it'll be fine over most base colours. If you arent sure try it on a small inconspicuous part first. I do know that every time I use it I have a moment of "Oh no, I've ruined it, that looks poo poo" until it dries and looks good.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Kabuki Shipoopi posted:

Does anyone have experience painting nihilakh oxide on black terrain? I just picked up a bottle and I've never used it before. I just finished building the bascilicanum (it's so big :swoon: ) and it looks like GW used it sparingly on the box art, but it's not listed on the box.

From the few videos I've seen on it, it seems like you just paint it on like a wash, but then wipe it off with dry paper towel. Is it really that simple?

This is my experience

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Thanks for the help guys! I'll give it a shot and post the results.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



TKIY posted:

It's it still Series 7 or bust for brushes or are there other options to consider?

Series 7 is good but be careful about buying from Amazon. People have reported receiving fake ones. Many here also use Rosemary & Co series 33.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
kinda struggled with this one a bit but it was fun to convert





SurreptitiousMuffin
Mar 21, 2010
I've traditionally done bases with flock etc, but does anybody have much experience just painting them flat? Grass and rocks don't really make sense for the army I'm putting together right now but I don't really know where to start.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

SurreptitiousMuffin posted:

I've traditionally done bases with flock etc, but does anybody have much experience just painting them flat? Grass and rocks don't really make sense for the army I'm putting together right now but I don't really know where to start.

What do you mean painting them flat? You mean just painting on a pattern on the flat base to look like texture? If so, look one post above yours. And for a more sci-fi thing someone in here the other week linked a video with warhammer TV painting "Blackstone fortress" bases, which I thought looked cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzVhZLQ8Z8w Me, I like actual texture on a base, making that look good is easier for me! Out of interest, what are you basing?

SurreptitiousMuffin
Mar 21, 2010

SiKboy posted:

What do you mean painting them flat? You mean just painting on a pattern on the flat base to look like texture? If so, look one post above yours. And for a more sci-fi thing someone in here the other week linked a video with warhammer TV painting "Blackstone fortress" bases, which I thought looked cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzVhZLQ8Z8w Me, I like actual texture on a base, making that look good is easier for me! Out of interest, what are you basing?
Chaos. I'm trying to replicate an effect like those flagstones but really struggling with it. Not happy with how this looks at all.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

SurreptitiousMuffin posted:

Chaos. I'm trying to replicate an effect like those flagstones but really struggling with it. Not happy with how this looks at all.


you're getting there! the dark gray shading looks pretty good.

1st, you probably want your stones to be a bit bigger and less busy. i'd stick with square
2nd, your highlight edge is too stark, you need a lighter gray and save your lighted color only for the corners.
3rd, your shading and highlight is inconsistent. this is why i recommend doing square, it makes it easier when starting out to stay consistent. just pick two connected sides to do highlights and two connected sides to do a shade. do every square the same way

you probably want to practice on some disposable bases or surfaces before you apply it to a mini. but dont feel bad painting over it, i painted over the bases of my guys three or four times when starting out before i really got it

Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jul 20, 2020

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...
Finished up some terminators for my Dusk Raiders stinkies:



I'm not a huge fan of the models (the easy-build ones), mostly because since each one goes so heavily into a theme (tentacles, horns, and, er... teeth) they don't necessarily make for such a coherent unit, but as usual painting them warmed me up to them. A bespoke 3-terminator unit is also not particularly useful on the tabletop, but hopefully they'll be a thorn in someone's side in smaller Crusade games until I get around to painting enough for a regular unit.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Try varying the colors of the flagstones a little so they're not all uniform gray. Your eyes might be telling you it doesn't look much like rock because there's no color in there.

Try the same steps but with Zandri Dust -> 3:1 Zandri + Screaming Skull -> 1:1 Zandri + Screaming Skull -> 1:3 Zandri + Screaming Skull -> Screaming Skull and you'll get a solid sandstone look. You can mix in a little gray too, it'll look fine.

If you're not comfortable mixing paint you can do roughly the same thing with Zandri Dust -> Karak Stone -> Screaming Skull

It'll wind up looking roughly like this:

PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Jul 20, 2020

SurreptitiousMuffin
Mar 21, 2010
Alright, round 2

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

SurreptitiousMuffin posted:

Alright, round 2



drat, good job!

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
That's a huge improvement, I love it!

SurreptitiousMuffin
Mar 21, 2010
Alright, round 3. Some of them have got a subtle brown in the mix, just so they're not all totally uniform. Feeling good about this, thank you for all the help!


Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

SurreptitiousMuffin posted:

Alright, round 3. Feeling good about this, thank you for all the help!




im telling you, with some practice, these actually take less time than regular bases

plus they help you learn to paint better

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Do you guys think cork board painted like stone + snow effects might be too much White if I do a Pallid Hand scheme?

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Sab669 posted:

Do you guys think cork board painted like stone + snow effects might be too much White if I do a Pallid Hand scheme?

Make the snow a bluish-white and any exposed stone very, very dark gray/black and I think the greenish-white marines would still stand out pretty well?

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

Lord Ludikrous posted:

Finished the last model from my start collecting set at long last.





God I love this. Is the top of the disc metallic under paint with aethermatic blue contrast?

I have three exalted sorcerers I want to paint first, then I'm going to paint Ahriman, and I'll finally be done with everything I got for xmas and my birthday.* **

*Which was start collecting, extra box of rubrics, scrab occult, and exalted sorcerers.

** then I have a daemon prince, hellbrute, rhino, and vindicator that I've bought since.

Werix fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jul 20, 2020

SurreptitiousMuffin
Mar 21, 2010
"Okay well you've done three minis with the flagstone bases and it seems pretty straightforward, so now it's time for the keeper of secrets. It's the same but bigger, how much harder could it be?"

It turns out FOUR FULL HOURS HARDER AND IT STILL LOOKS WORSE

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

Werix posted:

God I love this. Is the top of the disc metallic under paint with aethermatic blue contrast?

I have three exalted sorcerers I want to paint first, then I'm going to paint Ahriman, and I'll finally be done with everything I got for xmas and my birthday.* **

*Which was start collecting, extra box of rubrics, scrab occult, and exalted sorcerers.

** then I have a daemon prince, hellbrute, rhino, and vindicator that I've bought since.

Cheers!

No actually, the disc was based with Seer Grey and painted with Ahriman Blue with Nihlakh Oxide in the recessed parts.

I’ve got some more rubrics on the way along with some terminators and I have to say I’m looking forward to getting stuck in with the latter.

Spudd
Nov 27, 2007

Protect children from "Safe Schools" social engineering. Shame!

Lord Ludikrous posted:

Cheers!

No actually, the disc was based with Seer Grey and painted with Ahriman Blue with Nihlakh Oxide in the recessed parts.

I’ve got some more rubrics on the way along with some terminators and I have to say I’m looking forward to getting stuck in with the latter.

I painted my Arhiman about a month ago



Definitely not as good as above but I am so happy with it. I really hosed his disc up because I tried to do a multiple colour flame from it but I ruined but eh I was experimenting and learning.

I will say when it comes to the terminators paint them before sticking them all together, they have so many weird stubbly parts that are so much easier to paint before gluing it all together.

Psyber Spine
Jan 18, 2019

SurreptitiousMuffin posted:

"Okay well you've done three minis with the flagstone bases and it seems pretty straightforward, so now it's time for the keeper of secrets. It's the same but bigger, how much harder could it be?"

It turns out FOUR FULL HOURS HARDER AND IT STILL LOOKS WORSE


You went back to doing small flagstones again so they're different to your other models.

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free


Did a bit of terrain for a DND thing to get out of my painting funk

Punkinhead
Apr 2, 2015

Crashing the thread to see what people think of those spray cans of paint that Army Painter and Citadel put out. Primarily if you can prime with them. I've heard and seen so many different answers to this question that I don't know what to believe.

Thinking about some metallic silver spray cans so I can paint tons of metal themed miniatures without getting those glittery bits stuck in my brushes.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

If not priming then what are they even for 🤨


I use the Army Painter cans all the time for years

Revelation 2-13
May 13, 2010

Pillbug

PinheadSlim posted:

Crashing the thread to see what people think of those spray cans of paint that Army Painter and Citadel put out. Primarily if you can prime with them. I've heard and seen so many different answers to this question that I don't know what to believe.

Thinking about some metallic silver spray cans so I can paint tons of metal themed miniatures without getting those glittery bits stuck in my brushes.

I’m a pretty mediocre painter, but the citadel leadbelcher is fine as a primer for me. You have to shake metallics like a motherf.... otherwise it can end up kinda more grey than metallic. It makes painting a many things A LOT easier. Throw some nuln oil on and it looks great as a starting point imo. The contrast (wraithbone and greyseer) sprays work great as white’ish primers. I’ve tried the army paint yellow and I wasn’t super happy with it, it came on thick and blotchy but yellow sprays are apparently hard to make, so their other stuff might be good.

E: I have heard of people swearing that you should prime it first with a black primer, but it has not been necessary for me .

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free
the army painter stuff is great spray paint but the white sucks

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...

PinheadSlim posted:

Crashing the thread to see what people think of those spray cans of paint that Army Painter and Citadel put out. Primarily if you can prime with them. I've heard and seen so many different answers to this question that I don't know what to believe.

Thinking about some metallic silver spray cans so I can paint tons of metal themed miniatures without getting those glittery bits stuck in my brushes.

Yeah, I use Leadbelcher a bunch even for things that aren't primarily metal, exactly because it beats the gently caress out of priming black and painting metallics over that with a brush. Hell, the terminators I posted upthread (and all my plague marines, if you want to look through my output) have a LB undercoat.

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

Spudd posted:

I painted my Arhiman about a month ago



Definitely not as good as above but I am so happy with it. I really hosed his disc up because I tried to do a multiple colour flame from it but I ruined but eh I was experimenting and learning.

I will say when it comes to the terminators paint them before sticking them all together, they have so many weird stubbly parts that are so much easier to paint before gluing it all together.

I didn't really have that much of an issue with the terminators, though I wish I would have painted all the rubrics in subassemblies. Also, as I get to looking at my exalted sorcerers which I put together months ago, I also wish I would have waited, since they have a lot of details that are tucked away now by robes.

Punkinhead
Apr 2, 2015

Thank you everyone for the response! I plan on priming with leadbelcher then maybe trying an ink or contrast color to make the mini a metalic purple.


Sab669 posted:

If not priming then what are they even for 🤨


I use the Army Painter cans all the time for years

I thought the exact same thing, even after briefly trying the macragge blue spray can from citadel years ago. I found when googling this question that most people do not believe they're good primers because Citadel themselves used to say it's a "basecoat" spray, and that it went over an undercoat.

Here's a few reddit posts I've read that gave me cause for doubt

rando posted:

Uhm, not to rain on anyones parade, but I just went back to confirm: "Death Guard Green Spray is designed for basecoating all Citadel miniatures. When sprayed over an undercoat, it's a fast way to get a uniform base of colour onto your models." That seems to imply you need an undercoat.

The only ones without this are: Chaos Black, Corax White, The Fang, Stormvermin Fur, Averland Sunset and Retributor Armor.

rando posted:

I always prime first before I use citadel sprays.

rando posted:

In an interview on the twitch stream the other week Duncan confirmed that the sprays have the same chemical in they user in primers to.stick to plastic but not quite as high concentration

rando posted:

Trust me, the not quite as high concentration phrase is important here. It's safer to prime then spray, at least for the metallics

Assessor of Maat
Nov 20, 2019

Finished off Szeras.



Got things out of alignment so I couldn't use the guy getting sampled without bending things noticeably, I feel sorry for the pro painter types who will get that as a surprise ~100 hours in.

Gallery link: https://imgur.com/a/1VOXYYC

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free
those posters are either dumb or using out of date info, they've said multiple times on their hangout and hobby show recently that all their sprays are spray primers.

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Assessor of Maat posted:

Finished off Szeras.



Got things out of alignment so I couldn't use the guy getting sampled without bending things noticeably, I feel sorry for the pro painter types who will get that as a surprise ~100 hours in.

Gallery link: https://imgur.com/a/1VOXYYC

That's ok, now you can pretend he's invented the world's craziest swirly sausage

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