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The lowest price I could expect for a truck is around 400 euros, I've had one before for other tasks. The cost of the sacks of cement will be less than 150 when all said and done and the gravel was 60 euros, bought like two years ago. If I wanted to get a truck I should have made a complete form for the whole foundation so it could pour it all in one go, but doing it like this meant I could make it entirely from scraps I had left over from building my house.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:50
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H110Hawk posted:What is the rule of thumb there? I have no idea, when I hired a company to do my swale I assumed they were going to mix on site only to be surprised by a truck rolling up in front of my house. All done for under a grand with a full day of labor for a bunch of guys. We live literally a few miles from a mix site (...I went to high school with the owners kid(s)) but the truck wasn't their brand so no clue where it actually came from or if they just get remnant loads on special or what. Finger in the wind it was 30-50 cuft: Garage is ~26' long, it's about a foot wide, it's probably a foot deep. I don't think there is one. Calculate how many yards you need and call the mix plant for a quote, then figure out how much it costs to buy bags of concrete and rent a mixer. For extra work/extra cheap figure out what it takes to buy bags of just cement, aggregate and sand to mix your own. Your own costs will vary based on what you have for transportation, if you need to rent a mixer, if you can MOVE the mixer yourself, etc. There are also mixer trucks that charge you a flat fee to show up and mix on demand however much you need.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:54
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for a mid-sized job, a concrete-on-demand truck is also a good option if they're in your area. You just pay for the volume you use, down to partial yards. edit: didn't even read the complete post above.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:58
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Sirotan posted:We had a big rain storm and I discovered a fun new way that water is getting into my house: some moron poured a replacement patio directly up against the siding and there is no flashing there whatsoever. I actually did know this was a problem and even put in a couple calls to places yesterday hoping to get a couple quotes this upcoming week, but this is the first time I've gone into that little room and just saw buckets of water coming in. I had a similar situation with our outside deck when we moved in - while they had actually thought to use flashing, the flashed it wrong so it actually held water against the house, rather than shedding it. What do you mean most homeowners can't see into their crawlspace through the rim joist? Also, why are is the corner hanging from the roof rather than being supported by the foundation? That was a fun 3-day weekend to fix, but we knew what we were getting into when we bought.    
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Jul 20, 2020 18:13
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Well that is a yikes. I have no idea what the condition of my wall is and I sure hope it's nothing close to that.  I've called about a half dozen contractors and handymen at this point and only gotten one response. Think I might be doing this myself even though I'm not entirely sure on the best approach. What one side of the porch looks like (to the right is a wooden ramp)  Closer up view  It just looks like they slapped on some caulk and called it a day. I am going to have to remove the section of ramp that is covering the cement in order to get a look at the wall section under it. I'm sure the flashing job is equally non-existent there. Current plan, if I have to DIY, is I guess I am going to remove the bottom course of siding. Then, glue some angle flashing directly to the concrete and leave it unattached to the wall (???) for expansion. Then reattach the siding after I've trimmed it slightly. I'm not sure if I should be trying to elevate the flashing one direction or the other, don't even know if the slab is currently running towards or away from the house. Also not sure if I need to do anything else on the wall- I have aluminum siding now, and I think there is another layer of siding under it. Edit: I ordered this in white: https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...95119088651.htm Sirotan fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jul 20, 2020 |
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Jul 20, 2020 18:34
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That looks like it's a slope problem. Spray a hose on that concrete. Which way does the water go? If it's going towards the house uh.......well.....there's no good way to fix that without a jackhammer.
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Jul 20, 2020 20:47
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Motronic posted:That looks like it's a slope problem. Spray a hose on that concrete. Which way does the water go? If it's going towards the house uh.......well.....there's no good way to fix that without a jackhammer. The problem is there is essentially an open gap from wall to patio. Some attempt at caulking was attempted but it's pretty poo poo. I just ripped off the section of ramp that was covering the concrete. The slope seems to be flat to gradually sloping away from the house. Don't think we'll need a jackhammer here. But the trim around the door is not in great condition.   Edit: also all that poo poo on the storm door is bits of concrete since obviously they just left the thing uncovered when they poured the slab! Sirotan fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 21, 2020 |
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Jul 21, 2020 00:13
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Sirotan posted:The problem is there is essentially an open gap from wall to patio. Some attempt at caulking was attempted but it's pretty poo poo. My point is that proper caulk should last a very long time if this is sloped appropriately (and the caulk it applied appropriately). Do you know how long it's been like this? Maybe this is simply bad application/it's failed and you're all good to scrap that garbage out and replace it (once you've fixed any water damage). Something like Locktite S10 should work fine, and if the gap is very large you should put in some backer rod. But again, the slope has to be right or this is going to be a regular problem that requires re-application. Sirotan posted:Edit: also all that poo poo on the storm door is bits of concrete since obviously they just left the thing uncovered when they poured the slab! Sigh.
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Jul 21, 2020 00:42
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Motronic posted:My point is that proper caulk should last a very long time if this is sloped appropriately (and the caulk it applied appropriately). Do you know how long it's been like this? Maybe this is simply bad application/it's failed and you're all good to scrap that garbage out and replace it (once you've fixed any water damage). I *think* three years? According to permit records the ramp was installed in July 2017, the slab looks pretty new so I'm kind of assuming it was installed at the same time. If proper caulk was installed it has certainly failed at this point. Seems pretty easy to squeeze some new poo poo in the gaps and call it a day, just feels like that might not be enough?
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Jul 21, 2020 00:47
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Sirotan posted:If proper caulk was installed it has certainly failed at this point. Seems pretty easy to squeeze some new poo poo in the gaps and call it a day, just feels like that might not be enough? No no....don't do that. Scrape the old poo poo off and apply the right poo poo properly and see how it goes. Like I said in the last post, if it's a big gap use backer rod (https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-1-2-in-x-20-ft-Caulk-Backer-Rod-71480/202066515) It comes in various sizes.
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Jul 21, 2020 00:56
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Using one of those vibratory multitools with a scraper blade makes removing hardened caulk trivial. You just have to be very careful not to damage anything else with the blade.
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Jul 21, 2020 04:19
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Alright so doing more thinking here, I'm wondering if I should attempt to replace the parts of the door trim that are directly touching the concrete with some PVC. The trim surrounding the door appears to just be attached on the face, so I *think* it would not be that difficult to remove and replace. Also it looks like poo poo so it would be great to get rid of it. Not sure about this piece directly below the door though: Should I assume that the sill/threshold piece is being supported by the section I've got an arrow on? Or is there additional structure underneath and what you can see is only trim? Edit: alright, might have to remove the threshold as well to get the riser out. This all looks pretty straightforward though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mrMcqnnhtM Sirotan fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jul 21, 2020 |
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Jul 21, 2020 16:29
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My driveway is 20+ years old and in rough shape (lots of cracking and big depressions running the length of the driveway from where I drive my cars. I'm going to get it repaved with asphalt and I was wondering what do I need to make sure the paving company does so I end up with a good solid driveway that will last a while. From my research online it seems that a base of gravel (not sure about the thickness or type), followed by an inch or 2 (compacted) of HL8 asphalt and then an inch or 2 top layer (compacted) of HL3 asphalt is the popular recommended process.
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Jul 21, 2020 20:36
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we have an unused garage, whats the cheapest way to make it usable as an entertainment room? We don't want to fully convert it into a bedroom or anything, we just want the floors to be something nicer than concrete, and we want to secure the garage door. Nothing crazy, we just want to clean it up and spruce up the floors so we can toss an old sofa, some chairs, and a TV down there. Elderbean fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 21, 2020 |
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Jul 21, 2020 21:24
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Elderbean posted:we have an unused garage, whats the cheapest way to make it usable as an entertainment room? We don't want to fully convert it into a bedroom or anything, we just want the floors to be something nicer than concrete, and we want to secure the garage door. Literal cheapest is DIY some kind of plank flooring, peel and stick carpet, or an area rug, toss some foam insulation in your garage door, unplug the garage door and toss a lock on it. I believe two of the cheapest padlocks around onto the tracks on either side will work fine if it's unplugged. Make sure it's not some kind of fire egress requirement, is there a door to the outside world that isn't back into the house or out the car-sized door? If not you probably have to install a regular "garage door lock" which is a center-twist thing that sets a metal bar into the tracks so you can unlock and open it in an emergency.
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Jul 21, 2020 21:42
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Additional question: do you need this garage to be climate controlled? What do the wall look like? Sheetrock or bare studs? Same question for the ceiling.
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Jul 21, 2020 22:58
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I'd toss an area rug on a concrete floor (although I'd be fine with it just being concrete), but that could end up more expensive than big box tier laminate that you can install floating
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Jul 22, 2020 04:41
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HycoCam posted:Anyone have any experience with three layer epoxy finishes? H&C is a Sherwin Williams company. My local guys have to order the stuff and it'll take a few days to arrive--but the price. Whew--yeah, I expect to have excellent results at about 1/3 to 1/4 of the price of an online epoxy "metallic lava" floor kit. ...you could always epoxy that garage floor....
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Jul 22, 2020 04:51
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I'd just use sodium silicate myself, then some rugs.
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Jul 22, 2020 06:12
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2nd portion done, this time went a lot quicker. I hope I can get the 3rd one done even faster and also shorten the time between casts, wanna get the following two done next week (then my vacation ends), not sure it's possible, my back might put a limit, curse you life of IT with weak back muscles and bad posture. Damned rain now though....
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Jul 24, 2020 12:35
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How are you mixing all of it?
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Jul 24, 2020 14:27
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I own a cement mixer, in the background you can see it. Probably 30-40 years old, got it for 100€ in 2015 or so.
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Jul 24, 2020 14:36
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His Divine Shadow posted:I own a cement mixer, in the background you can see it. Probably 30-40 years old, got it for 100€ in 2015 or so. 
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Jul 24, 2020 18:55
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Huh? How do you know how fast this one mixes? This one is a lot better than any of the cheapos you can buy in the stores today, bigger and sturdier and three phase motor, not a consumer unit. This was an old pro model and made in Finland. If this is a cat joke I think I missed it. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 19:02
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His Divine Shadow posted:If this is a cat joke I think I missed it. It's a cat joke.
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Jul 24, 2020 19:30
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Your Finnish cat is smexy! 
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Jul 24, 2020 19:42
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Is Behr Marquee paint worth the premium? I need to paint over this god awful blue-grey paint into something more neutral and I was looking at the Behr Marquee Translucent Silk. Also, why do so many painting contractors seem to use Sherwin Williams?
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Jul 24, 2020 20:32
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Bioshuffle posted:Is Behr Marquee paint worth the premium? I need to paint over this god awful blue-grey paint into something more neutral and I was looking at the Behr Marquee Translucent Silk. Premium vs. what? The Behr Ultra and Marquee are excellent paints, and can hang toe-to-toe with SW or Benjamin Moore. Comparing sale to sale, Behr is usually $10-15 less a can than SW. If you're looking to cover, definitely go with the Behr Marquee over their Ultra. For ceilings or utility rooms, Behr Premium Plus is more than sufficient. Painters use SW because it's quality paint and they get professional discounts on it.
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Jul 24, 2020 20:44
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His Divine Shadow posted:Huh? How do you know how fast this one mixes? This one is a lot better than any of the cheapos you can buy in the stores today, bigger and sturdier and three phase motor, not a consumer unit. This was an old pro model and made in Finland. The "clumps of turds" didn't clue you in? 
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Jul 24, 2020 20:48
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I guess I really wanted to talk about cement mixers so my mind locked out alternative interpretations.
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Jul 24, 2020 20:56
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B-Nasty posted:Premium vs. what? The Behr Ultra and Marquee are excellent paints, and can hang toe-to-toe with SW or Benjamin Moore. Comparing sale to sale, Behr is usually $10-15 less a can than SW. I'm just trying to determine if the expensive paint is worth the extra price. I've always done a coat of primer followed by whatever cheap paint was on sale, but now that I'm moving into my home, I'm trying to figure out which brand of paint to use. I know they're advertised as one coat, but I am very skeptical of that claim.
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Jul 24, 2020 21:00
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In my current (rented) house I used expensive paint (Behr Ultra) for the first time in my life because the landlord paid for it, and I was super loving impressed by how much pigment each coat laid down Pay more for higher quality paint. Next time I paint I'm going to try Marquee or whatever the paint nerds tell me to get. Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 21:06
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We’ve really been happy with the marquee and I think it’s worth it.
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Jul 24, 2020 21:09
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Bioshuffle posted:Is Behr Marquee paint worth the premium? I need to paint over this god awful blue-grey paint into something more neutral and I was looking at the Behr Marquee Translucent Silk. I've only ever needed 1 coat with Marquee to cover up bright colors, so I'm a fan. The untinted, Ultra Pure White needs 2-3 coats to cover up dirty white/off-white, though, so it probably isn't worth the extra cost if you're just doing trim. Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 21:38
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Bioshuffle posted:Is Behr Marquee paint worth the premium? I need to paint over this god awful blue-grey paint into something more neutral and I was looking at the Behr Marquee Translucent Silk. If your buying a lot of paint, a dirtier trick--figure out who the largest users of SW/BM paint are in your area. Lie and say such and such is going to start a job for me and sent me here to buy the paint--40% to 60% off.  Works great for 20+ gallons, probably going to get you a smirk for two gallons...
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Jul 24, 2020 22:06
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Did someone say paint testing? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4RPaoU47jo
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Jul 24, 2020 22:29
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As someone who just had to sand a bunch of 5 year old SW superpaint off a couple spots on a wall I am completely sold on it. Its insanely durable. I always use a little floetrol in it, because it is pretty drat thick. Edit: also, dont ever pay full price for SW. There will be a 30-40% off sale about every 8 weeks. If the timing doesn't work out exactly with your project, they have zero issue with you buying a few cans untinted during the sale and then coming back in to get them tinted. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Jul 25, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2020 14:21
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The porch on the place I just bought needs power washing and some paint touch-ups at least, but there's also one slat missing on the base of a post that needs replacing:  Are there any steps needed here besides removing the debris, sanding until the wood looks decent, cutting a new piece of wood to size, hammering in, then painting the same as elsewhere? Trying to think through what tools I'll want to get to cut the wood piece - maybe I can get away with a small saw and dremel?
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Jul 25, 2020 17:32
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Some sort of caulk to help seal up the gaps you’ll inevitably have, as well as to help keep water out of the middle so it rots more slowly. E: I did something similar to my sister’s carport a couple of years ago. The bottom foot or so was completely rotted out as there’s a gutter outlet on that corner that just splashes in the driveway, and therefore on the column.  
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jul 25, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2020 18:22
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H110Hawk posted:Literal cheapest is DIY some kind of plank flooring, peel and stick carpet, or an area rug, toss some foam insulation in your garage door, unplug the garage door and toss a lock on it. I believe two of the cheapest padlocks around onto the tracks on either side will work fine if it's unplugged. Make sure it's not some kind of fire egress requirement, is there a door to the outside world that isn't back into the house or out the car-sized door? If not you probably have to install a regular "garage door lock" which is a center-twist thing that sets a metal bar into the tracks so you can unlock and open it in an emergency. Those things are absurdly easy to pick or bypass, most are literally three pin single sided, which might as well not even be a lock as far as anyone with a pick is concerned. If you do want to secure anything in a garage, there should be a hole for a padlock to lock the crossbar in place, preventing any outside access. And I do mean any outside access- you'll be locked out too. If you don't have the crossbar (or even if you do have it, but don't lock it), it's fairly trivial to hook the release for the garage door opener and lift the door up manually. So, I guess what I'm saying is that you shouldn't put anything you don't want to be stolen in a garage. Also don't put anything you don't want to be stolen in your car, because hoo boy, you don't even want to know how easy those are to unlock
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Jul 26, 2020 06:21
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