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I was looking at some of the Kohler toilets around that price range, is the cartridge/canister flush any good or something to be avoided? Or should I just pick up one of those American Standards mentioned above? Thanks As for the well, I searched all the wells in my section and range and was able to find all my neighbors wells but mine. The unsorted records went back to the early 40s and I'll have to figure out what box number I used to be on the rural route. All the wells around me seem to be 6", have had great flow rates (12gpm ish over 5 hours with less than 5ft drop), and were in the 150-200ft range with the water level ending up about 60ft down the casing. Back in the 1950-60s that is.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:04
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 10:36 |
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Make sure you look up if your toilet can flush 20+ hot dogs before you buy it. This is an important toilet metric.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:10
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Dear god, when you have a Moen shower valve poo poo the bed pay for a plumber. I knew they were bad to replace (and I even have the tool) but it turned out exactly like everyone else's did.
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Jul 21, 2020 18:06
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C-Bangin' it 
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What's the legality of those handheld bidets that got popular once you couldn't find TP anywhere a few months ago? It seems to me like they could only be legal in wet rooms, plus they'd probably need backflow prevention.
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Jul 21, 2020 19:13
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My toilet fill valve died today. I swapped it out no problem but the cutoff valve coming out of the wall is an older type with some corrosion on the fitting. After opening it again, the valve is now leaking from the stem. I am afraid if I try to remove and replace the fitting with a ball cutoff the nipple will fail and leave me cutting into drywall looking to repair copper pipe and on and on. Should I live with the occasional drip for now or deal? I tried tightening the valve body but it did not want to move.
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Jul 22, 2020 01:37
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You're gonna need to replace it. Any leaks are not acceptable long term. Get the new valve, any other supplies you could need, and attack it. If you're worried about the pipe nipple than get a spare one and a set of internal pipe wrenches. I've taken to soldering on threaded fittings at the stops, so a bad stop just means shutting off the water, unscrewing the old, applying pipe sealant, and threading on the new stop. Never need to work about cooking a seal or needing to bust out the torch.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:56
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sharkytm posted:You're gonna need to replace it. Any leaks are not acceptable long term. Get the new valve, any other supplies you could need, and attack it. If you're worried about the pipe nipple than get a spare one and a set of internal pipe wrenches. I've taken to soldering on threaded fittings at the stops, so a bad stop just means shutting off the water, unscrewing the old, applying pipe sealant, and threading on the new stop. Never need to work about cooking a seal or needing to bust out the torch. On the other side of this, and it may very much be regional, I've never had any luck changing supply valves (just the vale part) and always end up busting out a torch and throwing on a new quarter turn valve.
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Jul 22, 2020 17:04
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It's dripping a few CC's per day at most so for now I will keep an eye on it. The valve is original to the house and dates to the 1950s, so the odds of it coming off without a fight are small. I do want to fix it though, just rather deal with this than calling a plumber during a pandemic for something I hosed up. Appreciate the replies.
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Jul 22, 2020 23:41
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So I think a lot of good DIY knowledge comes in knowing when to cal a pro. In more fun adventures, my toilet wobbles like crazy. Ok, tighten the floor bolts, and one just kind of... slides out of place attached to nothing. My drain pipes are all cast iron, and there was a good bit of rust on the bolt, so I called in a pro to reflange my toilet because I could do it if it was PVC, but cast iron is way out of my league.
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Jul 22, 2020 23:51
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Motronic posted:On the other side of this, and it may very much be regional, I've never had any luck changing supply valves (just the vale part) and always end up busting out a torch and throwing on a new quarter turn valve. I don't understand. I'm talking about putting in new threaded connections, so replacing the valve involves unscrewing it, not soldering. Do you have trouble getting the old valve to unscrew? I'm not installing multi-turn valves, only quarter turn. I've never had the stub or threaded adapter fail. If it does, then it's drywall-cutting time anyhow.
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Jul 23, 2020 14:06
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sharkytm posted:I don't understand. I'm talking about putting in new threaded connections, so replacing the valve involves unscrewing it, not soldering. Do you have trouble getting the old valve to unscrew? I'm not installing multi-turn valves, only quarter turn. I've never had the stub or threaded adapter fail. If it does, then it's drywall-cutting time anyhow. Yeah, I'm talking about valves that don't come out of the stub. And around here they're typically not behind drywall. We use chrome valves/stubs that run almost back to the drywall and are trimmed with an escutcheon, so it's actually not that big of a deal to swap out.
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Jul 23, 2020 15:23
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I want to replace my radiator so I can free up some space to fit in a built-in closet in one room. Right now the radiator is connected in the middle, so I figure if I get a smaller radiator with a connection on the right, it should free up enough space to get the closet in. Basically like this: code:Can I then drain the radiator and replace it? Do I have to shut off the power from my boiler while I do this? Do I have to drain every radiator in the house? Should I just call a plumber and get it over with?  
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Jul 23, 2020 20:48
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You should make sure the power and water feeds to the boiler are shut off, then drain the boiler down below the floor level of the radiator you want to remove.
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Jul 24, 2020 01:53
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The radiator is one level above the boiler. So just shutting off the power to the boiler would be enough I think? I won't have to drain it? But my main question still is, are those slots valves that I can turn off? Or does that not matter at all?
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Jul 24, 2020 07:10
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You do have to drain the radiator. Otherwise, every radiator at that floor, and all of the circuits connecting them, will drain out wherever you open the line (i.e. at the base of the target radiator). Trust me, you don't want what comes out on your floors. You have to lower the water level below where you will be cracking the line. That is done from the lowest point: the boiler. You don't have to drain the entire system dry - just get it below what you're removing.
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Jul 25, 2020 00:45
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I have some tree root growing into the sewer line. I was quoted about 1500 to dig down and patch up the pipe. Is it possible to just get them to snake it clear and just flush those root killer things down the toilet? The root isn't causing any obstruction, yet- but I'd sleep easier knowing I don't have a ticking time bomb on my hands.
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Jul 27, 2020 21:47
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Did they camera the line and see that it crushed the pipe or something? Normally you can just get your sewer snaked like you said and it will cut up any roots coming into your pipe. You’ll need to do it every few years.
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Jul 28, 2020 01:42
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Bioshuffle posted:I have some tree root growing into the sewer line. I was quoted about 1500 to dig down and patch up the pipe. Is it possible to just get them to snake it clear and just flush those root killer things down the toilet? The root isn't causing any obstruction, yet- but I'd sleep easier knowing I don't have a ticking time bomb on my hands. Alternatively, dig it yourself and just pay someone to patch it.
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Jul 28, 2020 01:57
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Bioshuffle posted:I have some tree root growing into the sewer line. I was quoted about 1500 to dig down and patch up the pipe. Is it possible to just get them to snake it clear and just flush those root killer things down the toilet? The root isn't causing any obstruction, yet- but I'd sleep easier knowing I don't have a ticking time bomb on my hands. What is the line made of? Clay/orangeburg or cast iron? The former will leak and probably fragment/collapse when invaded by roots. Cast iron usually has a crack that the roots exploit...but no guarantee that it has also not failed. It has better odds of being ream-able.
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Jul 28, 2020 03:43
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Here is the image directly from the inspection report  Due to Covid-19 protocols, I wasn't able to follow them around.  All the plumbers I've called want to send a new sewer camera down but that's like 200 dollars down the drain (pun intended). The inspectors mentioned the intrusion was minor and it wasn't enough to cause any blockages. From that, I'm guessing it's just in the peripherals. One plumber I consulted said if it's not blocked up, snaking the line wouldn't make any difference. Also, it looks like the issue is 57.36ft from the house where they gained access. Could I potentially just flush down some root killer and be done with it? I have no idea what type of pipe it is, but it's a Texas home built in the late 80s.
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Jul 28, 2020 14:09
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Is installing a dishwasher something I should attempt myself?
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Jul 28, 2020 17:53
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If it isn't up to code WHY DO THEY SELL IT AT THE PLUMBING SUPPLY STORE ARGH I HATE DOING poo poo TWICE
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Jul 28, 2020 18:06
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Rhyno posted:Is installing a dishwasher something I should attempt myself? If all the hookups are already there, it's pretty drat easy. Do you consider yourself even remotely handy?
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Jul 28, 2020 18:10
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Bad Munki posted:If all the hookups are already there, it's pretty drat easy. Do you consider yourself even remotely handy? Yeah I've done a shitload of upgrades and repairs to this house but I see so many flooding horror stories. Everything is there, I'm just shoving a new unit in there.
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Jul 28, 2020 18:13
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So one half of the lawn is pretty dead with the summer heat, and the other half is... Pretty green, which happens to be above where the sewer line exits the basement. Chance of a leak in the pipe seems pretty high? The soil isn't set or anything, but that side of the lawn is definitely more lush.
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Jul 28, 2020 18:15
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Rhyno posted:Yeah I've done a shitload of upgrades and repairs to this house but I see so many flooding horror stories. Then it's easy. You'll plug the plug in, you'll connect the water, and you'll connect the drain. You'll shove the unit into the space, adjust the feet as needed, throw a couple screws into the mountain brackets, tie your drain line up in a loop, and grab a beer. No sweat. I think maybe the biggest surprise you might find is, I dunno, you need to get an appliance cord because your new unit expects to be hardwired? Or, maybe somehow the drain hose connection doesn't fit on your existing plumbing? But I've done a few and have never seen that happen.
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Jul 28, 2020 18:22
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Bad Munki posted:Then it's easy. You'll plug the plug in, you'll connect the water, and you'll connect the drain. You'll shove the unit into the space, adjust the feet as needed, throw a couple screws into the mountain brackets, tie your drain line up in a loop, and grab a beer. No sweat. I haven't pulled the old one out but this is what the new one has 
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Jul 28, 2020 19:41
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Rhyno posted:I haven't pulled the old one out but this is what the new one has
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Jul 28, 2020 19:46
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Do you have an outlet to plug it into? If not, I'd add one, and then zip down to Lowe's and grab an appliance cable, it's just the male end of an extension cord. Don't need anything wild. There should be a junction box under your new washer somewhere in which you can wire nut those wires to your new cable. Don't forget to use a cable clamp coming out of the box.
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Jul 28, 2020 19:47
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Slugworth posted:As someone who was in flood mitigation for years, don't worry about the install. It's eventually gonna leak and destroy your house no matter how well you install it. That's just what dishwashers do. Good thing this is for the house we just sold! Bad Munki posted:Do you have an outlet to plug it into? If not, I'd add one, and then zip down to Lowe's and grab an appliance cable, it's just the male end of an extension cord. Don't need anything wild. There should be a junction box under your new washer somewhere in which you can wire nut those wires to your new cable. Don't forget to use a cable clamp coming out of the box. As I said above, that may be more effort than I'm looking to do. If the current unit is wired in will it be bad to just wire this in as well?
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Jul 28, 2020 19:59
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tactlessbastard posted:If it isn't up to code WHY DO THEY SELL IT AT THE PLUMBING SUPPLY STORE ARGH I HATE DOING poo poo TWICE because someone might need that part? What'd happend?
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Jul 28, 2020 20:26
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Betting it was a saddle valve.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:46
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I sinned by using a rubber P trap.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:51
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The Slack Lagoon posted:So one half of the lawn is pretty dead with the summer heat, and the other half is... Pretty green, which happens to be above where the sewer line exits the basement. Chance of a leak in the pipe seems pretty high? The soil isn't set or anything, but that side of the lawn is definitely more lush. Probably not. Sewer pipes are pretty far down. I doubt grass roots would reach it. Trees on the other hand...
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Jul 28, 2020 21:49
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Rhyno posted:If the current unit is wired in will it be bad to just wire this in as well? That I can't really answer, I'm no code expert, but the effort to drop in an outlet is pretty trivial, so that's what I'd do. At worst, you'll need an old work box, a 50 cent outlet, and a 30 cent plate. e: What kind of wiring is coming out that the old one was hooked up to? Like is it metal flex or was it just bare romex or what?
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Jul 28, 2020 21:50
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Rhyno posted:Good thing this is for the house we just sold! If the current unit is wired in you'll likely find a junction box with conduit going to the washer's junction box. Unwiring should be a couple of screws and removing a few wire nuts, and you can re-use the conduit by hooking it up to the new unit's junction box. If you're paranoid, get those waterproofed wire nuts filled with gel.
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Jul 28, 2020 22:01
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Rhyno posted:Yeah I've done a shitload of upgrades and repairs to this house but I see so many flooding horror stories. The "pro installer" my landlord used installed the drain wrong. Yeah, just clamp it real hard, that's how it works. The drain hose had a stepped boot at the end, you cut off the larger diameter part if you have a smaller drain connection. They didn't, and it leaked.
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Jul 28, 2020 22:17
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I installed a new water heater for my girlfriend last weekend and discovered that a prior owner (or possibly her ex when he did some other lovely plumbing work) ran the TPR valve drain in 1/2" pipe vertically 6+ feet up into the attic somewhere not visible.
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Jul 29, 2020 00:01
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Bioshuffle posted:Here is the image directly from the inspection report They can remove the roots with a root auger. If it's just cracked, it could be decades before it comes apart in any significant way requiring excavation. Reaming out the run will serve for years. tactlessbastard posted:I sinned by using a rubber P trap. Your penance is to say five "gently caress depots" and then take a 4" PVC street elbow and remove it to a bin of 4" standard elbows. Rhyno posted:Good thing this is for the house we just sold! Yeah, it'll be fine. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 03:26
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 10:36 |
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.poo poo
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Jul 29, 2020 03:28
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