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awesome story of triumph and the final product looks great!
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Jul 30, 2020 12:35
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I have definitely used a ceiling medallion to cover some crappy ceiling texture rather than repair it.
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Jul 30, 2020 13:10
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I'm trying to sell my house (moved for work) and a buyers inspector found water in the crawlspace, declared we had a burst pipe, and the buyers rightfully asked that we fix that. I went down and got in the crawlspace and there was a little water (maybe a gallon) but no pipes leaking. Long story short we found that the shower recently developed a leak so we regrouted it and it's water tight again. The floor joists are dry and show no damage, and there's just a little swelling in the subfloor. I don't want to tear the shower out and replace the subfloor so I'm considering screwing a fresh piece of plywood under the swollen subfloor and then supporting it by sistering some 2x6 to adjacent floor joists and further supporting it like that. Any thoughts?
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Jul 30, 2020 13:30
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tactlessbastard posted:Long story short we found that the shower recently developed a leak so we regrouted it and it's water tight again. Grout isn't, and isn't meant to be, watertight, so it sounds like this shower needs to be rebuilt. Not that you'll do that to sell the house, just saying.
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Jul 30, 2020 13:36
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B-Nasty posted:Grout isn't, and isn't meant to be, watertight, so it sounds like this shower needs to be rebuilt. Not that you'll do that to sell the house, just saying. We also epoxied some cracked tiles.
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Jul 30, 2020 13:38
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tactlessbastard posted:We also epoxied some cracked tiles. On the floor of the shower or high up on the walls? Even before all these new fangled shower waterproofing systems, the oldschool method is a base layer of mortar for general slope, a pan or membrane, then another layer of mortar the tile sits on. The pan/membrane connects into the drain, so you could take a shower in there without ever putting tile down, i.e. the tile/grout isn't necessary for waterproofing.
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Jul 30, 2020 13:44
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mutata posted:
Good god yes. PO ripped it out (why, I don't know, house was vacated, short sale, etc.) I struggled with that mother fucker forever.
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Jul 30, 2020 13:48
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C-Bangin' it 
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B-Nasty posted:On the floor of the shower or high up on the walls? Even before all these new fangled shower waterproofing systems, the oldschool method is a base layer of mortar for general slope, a pan or membrane, then another layer of mortar the tile sits on. The pan/membrane connects into the drain, so you could take a shower in there without ever putting tile down, i.e. the tile/grout isn't necessary for waterproofing. On the floor. It's a 1971 original tile shower.
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Jul 30, 2020 13:49
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tactlessbastard posted:The floor joists are dry and show no damage, and there's just a little swelling in the subfloor. I don't want to tear the shower out and replace the subfloor so I'm considering screwing a fresh piece of plywood under the swollen subfloor and then supporting it by sistering some 2x6 to adjacent floor joists and further supporting it like that. Like, no good inspector is going to look at your solution and be like "yep, he got this thing back to 100 percent", so it's not worth doing at this point.
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Jul 30, 2020 14:23
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Slugworth posted:Leave it alone and see what the buyers/inspector says. What you're proposing isn't maybe the worst fix it fast idea ever (assuming that the subfloor is legitimately dry, not just dry looking - a process that takes longer than you might expect), but it's certainly not the correct way to handle it. Inform the buyer of what the issue was, and that you have sealed the shower to the best of your abilities, but are not prepared to demolish and reinstall it for the sale, and that's just the way it is. Good points, thanks.
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Jul 30, 2020 14:36
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I am of the opinion that every ceiling electrical box should be fan rated (because it makes future me's life so much easier) unless it is in like, the hallway. I also had a bedroom with no fan, the box was between joists and attached to hopes and dreams. Couldn't quite get one of those extendable box jawns in the cut hole, so I ended up having to crawl in the attic to do it. And then the previous owner clipped the wires super short so there was that too. I am drat hear positive that both the bedrooms that have fans in them don't have fan boxes either and I just can't be bothered with doing that job again any time soon. I love ceiling fans but hate installing ceiling fans.
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Jul 30, 2020 14:45
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KKKLIP ART posted:I am of the opinion that every ceiling electrical box should be fan rated Also, all switched runs to ceiling boxes should be 14/3 with the unused conductor capped off. Then, if you ever want to switch a simple light to a fan, you can install a double switch to control the motor and light kit separately. That would cost the electrician an extra $0.25, so forget about it.
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Jul 30, 2020 15:25
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B-Nasty posted:Also, all switched runs to ceiling boxes should be 14/3 with the unused conductor capped off. Then, if you ever want to switch a simple light to a fan, you can install a double switch to control the motor and light kit separately. The electrician who did my house didn't spare the extra 25 cents. 
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Jul 30, 2020 16:05
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Every time I make changes to wiring in my house I use 12/2 because gently caress undersized wiring to save pennies. I've already found 2 wires that had insulation burned away from a prior owner putting too many amps through stuff. At some point I'm replacing the fuse box with a breaker and I'm trying to get ahead of replacing all the wiring. Most recently I replaced ceiling fan wiring that the insulation had burned off of, and discovered that it was pigtailed to the garage outlet. 
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Jul 30, 2020 16:06
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SpartanIvy posted:Every time I make changes to wiring in my house I use 12/2 because gently caress undersized wiring to save pennies. I won't do it for lighting circuits, because 14 gauge is so much easier to work with and easier to deal with box fill limits. Especially with LED lights, where you could probably run the entire house on one 15 amp breaker. If it's a new home-run and there's outlets and room for deep boxes, absolutely.
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Jul 30, 2020 16:48
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SpartanIvy posted:Every time I make changes to wiring in my house I use 12/2 because gently caress undersized wiring to save pennies. I've already found 2 wires that had insulation burned away from a prior owner putting too many amps through stuff. At some point I'm replacing the fuse box with a breaker and I'm trying to get ahead of replacing all the wiring. As a part of closing we had the fuse box replaced and the electrician who did it was fine, but did the least work possible. We hired another to update our stove and wiring to 50 amps, add in a circuit for our washer and update our dryer to a 4 wire. The previous homeowners/electrician had separate 3 30 amp fuses somehow going to the stove on undersized wire and when he told me that I seriously made the face. He clipped and pulled the wires, ran new cable, added in the 50 amp breaker and so far nothing else that is supposed to work isn’t working but like what the gently caress dude? At least they had AFCI/GFCI combo breakers installed on everything. Anyway that extra overhead is going to be great when I replace our shed and put electric there because I think 65 amps would be plenty.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:19
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FamDav posted:so i left a plastic bottle on my windowsill for a few days and it managed to do this Sand the stain off the top edge of the sill, find a close matching stain (this is going to vary by brand, but it appears to be something in the "light" family), apply stain, let dry. Sealing would be optional, but might be nice since this is a window and might get exposed to moisture.
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Jul 30, 2020 18:28
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. what can i do to fix things here?
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For larger patches in drywall--think about a California patch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlUgcf55i4c
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Jul 30, 2020 19:24
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HycoCam posted:For larger patches in drywall--think about a California patch. Either this or you can but those pre-made patches out of tape and metal mesh. I’ve used those for some decent sized holes.
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Jul 31, 2020 01:04
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What's this plastic device on the exterior of this window frame? I tried searching "Neptune" related home devices but it's such a broad term. I'll be pissed off it's the CIA's listening device again. 
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Jul 31, 2020 04:01
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melon cat posted:What's this plastic device on the exterior of this window frame? I tried searching "Neptune" related home devices but it's such a broad term. Probably a water meter. This has a similar housing: https://mobilehomepartspro.com/product/neptune-t-10-touch-pads/ edit: here's the exact one: https://store.abtwater.com/products/neptune-meter-touchpad
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Jul 31, 2020 04:35
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B-Nasty posted:Especially with LED lights, where you could probably run the entire house on one 15 amp breaker. My house has nearly every ceiling fixture across the 2nd and 3rd floors on the same dumb 15 amp breaker run, plus a bedroom and a half worth of outlets, plus a few bonus outlets like in the pantry. This includes ceiling fixtures in the kitchen, bathroom, living/dining rooms, hallways, stairwells, plus three bedrooms. I don't know how this worked without LEDs. admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 04:47
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Rexxed posted:Probably a water meter. This has a similar housing: What he said. THe water meter reader comes and does stuff with that little pad, and then they over charge you for water.
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Jul 31, 2020 11:16
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Thanks for IDing that thing. So TeChNiCaLly if I remove it I could get free water for life. Nice.
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Jul 31, 2020 14:22
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KKKLIP ART posted:I am of the opinion that every ceiling electrical box should be fan rated (because it makes future me's life so much easier) unless it is in like, the hallway. I also had a bedroom with no fan, the box was between joists and attached to hopes and dreams. Couldn't quite get one of those extendable box jawns in the cut hole, so I ended up having to crawl in the attic to do it. And then the previous owner clipped the wires super short so there was that too. I am drat hear positive that both the bedrooms that have fans in them don't have fan boxes either and I just can't be bothered with doing that job again any time soon. I used the box jaws. The twist was, gee, it just happened to be in the same place an effing duct was.
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Jul 31, 2020 14:49
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My attic has just a couple inches of crappy old fiberglass insulation and running the A/C makes our electric bill jumps up an extra $100/a month in the summer. I had a guy quote me $1800 for new blown in insulation & air gap sealing; without breaking out the spreadsheets and R-value calculators would it generally be worth blowing a hypothetical stimulus check on it?
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Jul 31, 2020 14:58
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Toebone posted:My attic has just a couple inches of crappy old fiberglass insulation and running the A/C makes our electric bill jumps up an extra $100/a month in the summer. I had a guy quote me $1800 for new blown in insulation & air gap sealing; without breaking out the spreadsheets and R-value calculators would it generally be worth blowing a hypothetical stimulus check on it? Yes. It's a night and day difference not just in your bills but comfort.
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Jul 31, 2020 15:31
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melon cat posted:Thanks for IDing that thing. No you just have to call in your numbers. The POs cut mine at my house and the town doesn't want to pull down the ceiling to rewire it so I get mailed an estimated bill.. then call them then get a new bill. When I redo the ceiling I'll have them do it.
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Jul 31, 2020 16:08
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https://imgur.com/DPVyzlu What is this style of anchor, and how much of a pain in the rear end will it be to remove them so I can patch it and paint over it properly?
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Jul 31, 2020 17:38
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Looks like a hole from the plastic wall anchors that has been filled with caulk or putty. I would try drilling it out with a small drill bit, or prying up an edge on it to see if I could pull it out with needle nose pliers.
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Jul 31, 2020 18:09
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Put a nail in it, pop it through.
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Jul 31, 2020 18:26
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Bioshuffle posted:https://imgur.com/DPVyzlu I'm in the push it into/through the wall and patch the hole. Your earlier post about mixed mud and flashing--yeah the mixed mud is going to be better at preventing flashing over premixed mud because it drys less porous.
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Jul 31, 2020 19:11
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Hell yes! I found an anchor with the screw still in it in the laundry room, so I used the screw to pry the anchors out. Why the hell did the previous owners just paint over it instead of removing it? It wasn't even that hard. I guess next stop is to home depot for some joint compound? Renovision seemed to recommend the 45 compound, so that should be the ticket, right? I've got the painter coming next week, so I want to take care of this before too late. The previous owners did some weird poo poo, like painting over nails. https://imgur.com/a/DJim6ES
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Jul 31, 2020 19:24
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My condensate pump is dead; anything to look for / avoid when buying a new one, or is whatever they have at home depot fine?
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Jul 31, 2020 21:40
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Toebone posted:My condensate pump is dead; anything to look for / avoid when buying a new one, or is whatever they have at home depot fine? Little Giant pumps are pretty much the standard. Reliable and cheap. Can buy them anywhere.
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Aug 1, 2020 01:56
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I feel dumb for asking this but based on the utility room photo below... Would you say the dryer is gas, electric, or not enough information to say for certain? I move in to my first house rental next week, and like a dummy I forgot to check to see which it is. I found this photo from an old listing and I'm hoping I can tell for certain so I can shop for the washer/dryer tomorrow, or I'll have to wait another week till I get more free time. Thanks! 
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Aug 1, 2020 02:16
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Electric assuming that black circle is a receptacle.
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Aug 1, 2020 02:20
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Electric dryer based on the plate on the wall with a 240v receptacle on it. If it were gas there’d be a gas line stub at floor level with a valve and cap on it instead of the large plate and receptacle on the wall.
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Aug 1, 2020 02:21
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There's nothing in the picture to suggest that it is gas but the corner of the room that we can't see is where i would expect the gas line to be.
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Aug 1, 2020 02:24
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H110Hawk posted:Electric assuming that black circle is a receptacle. corgski posted:Electric dryer based on the plate on the wall with a 240v receptacle on it. Awesome, thank you! I went in to a slight panic this evening when I started researching what to buy and realized I didn't know the answer, and I never took a photo of the laundry room. Corla Plankun posted:There's nothing in the picture to suggest that it is gas but the corner of the room that we can't see is where i would expect the gas line to be. Ack. Based on what we can see, would it be safe to say that an electric dryer would work in there?
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Aug 1, 2020 02:25
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