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MarcusSA posted:Is there a reason to hook a monitor up via display port vs using the HDMI port? If you have a gsync monitor, then you have to use display port for it to work. Or I guess if you wanted to use the daisy chain feature of DP that I've only seen on a few monitors.
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Aug 2, 2020 20:21
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MarcusSA posted:Is there a reason to hook a monitor up via display port vs using the HDMI port? DisplayPort is a connector designed for PC monitors first while HDMI is a little better for compatibility. If you're' hooking up a standard 1080p monitor it doesn't really make a difference https://www.rtings.com/monitor/learn/hdmi-vs-displayport
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Aug 2, 2020 20:25
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:pretty much anything Lenovo or LG branded has done right by me. thanks, they pop up on a lot of recommended lists, so i think i'll just bite the bullet and buy one then.
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Aug 2, 2020 21:08
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phosdex posted:If you have a gsync monitor, then you have to use display port for it to work. Or I guess if you wanted to use the daisy chain feature of DP that I've only seen on a few monitors. FCKGW posted:DisplayPort is a connector designed for PC monitors first while HDMI is a little better for compatibility. Ok thanks. I guess that gsync also supports freesync now. I also just got a new 1440p 144hz monitor so I guess I should definitely use display port. Thanks!
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Aug 2, 2020 21:24
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MarcusSA posted:Ok thanks. I guess that gsync also supports freesync now. Probably not relevant, but just fyi, you need a 1000 series card or newer for freesync to work with nvidia
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Aug 2, 2020 21:41
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Rinkles posted:Probably not relevant, but just fyi, you need a 1000 series card or newer for freesync to work with nvidia Ah ok that’s good to know. I’ve got a 1080ti so it shouldn’t be an issue. I’m just “downgrading” from a 4K to a 1440p since I’ve noticed a few games not running as smooth as I’d like at 4K. The 1440p I got though is a lot better of a monitor so the resolution downgrade won’t be that bad I don’t think.
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Aug 2, 2020 21:47
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I have a 550W Seasonic power supply and a GTX 1060. They worked well together, and then my computer started randomly shutting down immediately, and then often not booting up beyond an initial fan spin and the light near the power switch coming on. Removing the GTX from the system seems to have solved the issue. 1. How can I be sure (or what's the chance) that the problem is actually in the power supply? 2. If it's in the power supply, but the computer works fine without the graphics card, is there hope of replacing the power supply under warranty?
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Aug 3, 2020 01:10
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dirby posted:I have a 550W Seasonic power supply and a GTX 1060. They worked well together, and then my computer started randomly shutting down immediately, and then often not booting up beyond an initial fan spin and the light near the power switch coming on. Removing the GTX from the system seems to have solved the issue.
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Aug 3, 2020 01:22
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Any no nos to keep in mind when using power strips/extenders? Installing an AC unit means I'm gonna have to rearrange my cabling.
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Aug 3, 2020 06:50
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Rinkles posted:Any no nos to keep in mind when using power strips/extenders? Installing an AC unit means I'm gonna have to rearrange my cabling. Don't overload them (such as plugging one into another with high load devices on it). An air conditioner will pull a lot of amps starting up so if you have the option to put it on a different power circuit, do it. If the voltage droop from the AC turning on proves to be too much for your system(s) then you may want an uninterruptible power supply with automatic voltage regulation (AVR) that can kick up the voltage a bit to help compensate. The AC will probably need to be plugged directly into the wall. The best power strips are going to be tripp-lite isobars but they are expensive. I only use one where I have a bunch of server equipment and multiple UPSes. For everything else I get whatever major brand is on sale. If you're running any long-ish extension cables or power strips with long cords make sure they have higher gauge conductors even though that will cost a bit more. If you have trouble fitting transformers into your power strips you can shop for ones with transformer plugs that are a bit spread out to help, or if they're low current like a lot of transformer are, there's a lot of one foot extension cords that you can buy to make them fit.
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Aug 3, 2020 07:50
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My 5-years-old Dell Inspiron desktop PC needs more RAM. A lot more RAM. It has 8 gigs now and I’d like to kick it up to 32 if I can. Is there anything special I need to know about buying RAM sticks? Like will any kind work, or are there certain types that will or won’t work?
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Aug 3, 2020 19:23
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I. M. Gei posted:My 5-years-old Dell Inspiron desktop PC needs more RAM. What’s your specific model? If Dell has links to buy Dell replacement memory based on model, then use that as a reference to get the memory type (don’t buy through Dell though, it’ll be overpriced). Look up the type of RAM it lists in the specifications, and buy that. You’ll see something along the lines of “DDR3 1600MHz.” Next question is whether it’s full size or laptop RAM- if it’s a full size desktop then it’s likely full size (“DIMM”), if it’s a small form factor it might be laptop (“SODIMM”). Last question is how much memory can my computer take. Based on the age, 32GB is probably fine, but it isn’t unheard of for certain computer chipsets to be limited to 16GB.
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Aug 3, 2020 19:36
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You can also go to crucial.com, plug in your model of Dell and it will tell you what kind of RAM is compatible. You don't have to buy their memory, though it is good memory and comes with a lifetime warranty.
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Aug 3, 2020 20:08
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smax posted:What’s your specific model? Dell Inspiron 3847, manufactured October of 2015. EDIT: Looks like I need two of these, which Dell doesn’t sell anymore. Also I can only go up to 16GB  EDIT 2: I take that first part back. Dell still sells it, they just don’t have a working product description page for it. Although I can’t tell if Dell sells the sticks in pairs, or one at a time. “2Rx8” means two sticks of 8GB each, right? I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 02:44
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it looks like that computer uses 1600 Mhz DDR3 RAM, and has two DIMM slots 1. the specifications mention that the largest RAM configuration supported is 16 GB. I don't know if it only says 16 GB because that's only what Dell is willing to sell, or if there is a hardware limitation in play. Regardless, if you're only aiming for 16 GB, you'd be looking for two sticks of 8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 RAM. 2. The other thing to think about is to check what memory is on your computer right now. If it's a single stick of 8 GB, then you only need one more stick of 8 GB to get to 16 GB. If it's two sticks of 4 GB, then you won't be able to reuse those. 3. I don't know how to make sure that your system can support 32 GB, but if it can, then you'd need to get two sticks of 16 GB 1600 Mhz DDR3 RAM.
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Aug 4, 2020 03:08
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Here's an 8GB kit: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CML8GX3M2A1600C9-Vengeance-Desktop-Memory/dp/B00569K7LM
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Aug 4, 2020 03:10
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So it's a good idea to not buy faster than supported RAM, even ignoring price?
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Aug 4, 2020 03:22
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I. M. Gei posted:“2Rx8” means two sticks of 8GB each, right? haha, oh boy, somebody I know (not me) just fell into the same trap. apparently it means "dual channel" whatever that means. for sure it doesn't mean two sticks.
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Aug 4, 2020 03:28
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Lawson posted:haha, oh boy, somebody I know (not me) just fell into the same trap. apparently it means "dual channel" whatever that means. for sure it doesn't mean two sticks. Ah. TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Here's an 8GB kit: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CML8GX3M2A1600C9-Vengeance-Desktop-Memory/dp/B00569K7LM Amazon.com posted:2x4GB Aaahhhhhh I dunno man 
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Aug 4, 2020 03:36
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Derp, my bad. I'll post a better choice. EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CML16GX3M2A1600C10-Vengeance-Desktop-Memory/dp/B007TG8QRW/ Dual channel means more memory bandwidth, for faster performance. But the two memory sticks have to be identical specs. TITTIEKISSER69 fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 04:12
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Rinkles posted:So it's a good idea to not buy faster than supported RAM, even ignoring price? Nothing wrong with that. I will perform as fast as the motherboard can operate it. And if it's compatible with your next build you can move it into that.
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Aug 4, 2020 04:13
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Lawson posted:haha, oh boy, somebody I know (not me) just fell into the same trap. apparently it means "dual channel" whatever that means. for sure it doesn't mean two sticks. Dual-Ranked means that a single stick/module of memory has two "ranks", or two separate clumps of memory. A single-ranked module will typically only have memory chips on one side of the stick, a dual-ranked stick will have chips on both sides. A Dual-Ranked stick/module is equivalent to two single-ranked sticks/modules that are put in the same memory channel.
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Aug 4, 2020 04:14
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Actuarial Fables posted:Dual-Ranked means that a single stick/module of memory has two "ranks", or two separate clumps of memory. A single-ranked module will typically only have memory chips on one side of the stick, a dual-ranked stick will have chips on both sides. Thank you, that helps. I did end up using the dual-ranked stick with no adverse effects so far, fingers crossed, but it is good to know what it actually means.
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Aug 4, 2020 05:31
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:But the two memory sticks have to be identical specs. Not exactly. You can use memory sticks that don't match in speed, but they'll default (or otherwise have to be set to) the speed of the slower stick. You can also use memory sticks that don't match in size, but only the intersection of the sizes will behave at dual-channel speed. That is, if you pair an 8 GB stick with a 4 GB stick, whatever exists in the space of the 4 GB stick, or in half of the 8 GB stick, will work in dual-channel. This is not something you really want to do on purpose/given a choice, but it's useful to know in a pinch, and even happens sometimes in laptops where you might have 4 GB of soldered-on RAM and then a free slot: you don't have to put 4 GB in the free slot absolutely.
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Aug 4, 2020 06:37
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id like to make educational videos for youtube (im a teacher and i think it would be good if i have a little portfolio of videos that i can easily refer to, it will also make me look good as a remote learning teacher), i have no experience with anything video related though. what kind of equipment and software do i realistically need to make a good, not overly flashy youtube video? im not looking to make a lot of money off of this or anything, just a limited project for the camera itself, will something like this do the job: https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/420930/sony-handycam-hdr-cx240e-zwart.html ? id need to edit the video to create overlays and tables and things like that, which i gather is pretty hard on your cpu. do i really need a very fast computer? right now i have a kind of weird setup where my desktop computer has a relatively fast GPU (nvidia gtx1070) but an old and lovely i5 with DDR3. can i still get away with this for the editing part?
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Aug 4, 2020 07:57
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Shibawanko posted:id like to make educational videos for youtube (im a teacher and i think it would be good if i have a little portfolio of videos that i can easily refer to, it will also make me look good as a remote learning teacher), i have no experience with anything video related though. what kind of equipment and software do i realistically need to make a good, not overly flashy youtube video? im not looking to make a lot of money off of this or anything, just a limited project You can edit videos on anything modern, it will just be slower to render without more cores. If your equipment was super old you might get delays in scrubbing around the source video but I doubt that'd be an issue with the system you describe unless you have disks going bad. It will help to have a good amount of RAM so the video files can be in memory. For software, there's a whole ton of stuff available with different learning curves. Davinci Resolve is free to use but they sell hardware to make up for it. I've used it a few times and it's pretty good although I'm a novice at using their features and don't make videos very often. Microsoft I don't know much about cameras but I'd do some test video with the camera you linked and your cell phone (the back camera since it's higher megapixel) and see which looks better. A lot of modern cell phones are fine for basic video capture and look pretty good. If you end up liking it you can always upgrade your computer later but I wouldn't let your current stuff hold you back. While render times for videos are long the computer does it on its own. Most of the actual editing work is splicing the clips together how you want, adding effects, adding or editing audio, doing transitions, etc. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 08:37
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Rexxed posted:Microsoft still has the very basic Movie Maker for windows 10 but they moved it to being a Store app instead of an included program. That's not from Microsoft. It's on the Windows 10 Store but it's some 3rd-party program.
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Aug 4, 2020 08:48
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MutantBlue posted:That's not from Microsoft. It's on the Windows 10 Store but it's some 3rd-party program. Oh my mistake, I see on wikipedia that video editing was added to the Microsoft Photos app: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/microsoft-photos/9wzdncrfjbh4?activetab=pivot:overviewtab
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Aug 4, 2020 09:14
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There's also Kdenlive, Openshot and Shortcut; three opensource video editors. Sound tends to be the last element of video people think about but it's probably the most important. People won't sit through a high grade excellent looking video if they can't understand what is being said (or there's annoying wind noises, etc). Are you planning for the videos to all be 'in a studio' style (ie. in a room in your house) or on-location videos where you out and about in the world? This might be better covered by moving over to The Dorkroom. Pablo Bluth fucked around with this message at 09:57 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 09:33
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Pablo Bluth posted:There's also Kdenlive, Openshot and Shortcut; three opensource video editors. just in my house, i'll probably put up a couple of semi-transparent partitions that i have lying around and create a "cubicle" in a larger room from which to record. sound is a good point though, i guess something like this wouldn't be enough: https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1282573/trust-gxt-232-mantis-streaming-microphone.html ? would i be looking more at something like this maybe: https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1336392/hyperx-quadcast.html ? all of these have good reviews but since i know nothing about this kind of stuff it's hard to gauge. i'd like to do all of this on a budget but still get decent equipment in case i want to make a habit out of it
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Aug 4, 2020 10:54
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Pablo Bluth posted:There's also Kdenlive, Openshot and Shortcut; three opensource video editors. Shotcut doesn't allow you to move layers after you create them without manually editing your project file in a text editor. Roughly a year ago this was super low on their priority list because they could not fathom why anyone would want to rearrange their layers. Considering Shibawanko wants to put graphs and overlays in, I can tell you from experience that that's going to be a pain in the rear end. I haven't kept track of it, but until they fix that, I'd recommend against Shotcut.
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Aug 4, 2020 11:23
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Shibawanko posted:just in my house, i'll probably put up a couple of semi-transparent partitions that i have lying around and create a "cubicle" in a larger room from which to record. sound is a good point though, i guess something like this wouldn't be enough: https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1282573/trust-gxt-232-mantis-streaming-microphone.html ? would i be looking more at something like this maybe: https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1336392/hyperx-quadcast.html ? all of these have good reviews but since i know nothing about this kind of stuff it's hard to gauge. i'd like to do all of this on a budget but still get decent equipment in case i want to make a habit out of it The microphones you linked to are both intended for connecting to a PC and recording while sat/stood near the microphone. If you want to maximise the quality of in-camera audio then you want something like a Shotgun or lav mic setup (Rode are a popular brand). (But the Sony Handycam you linked to doesn't seem to have a microphone input). Either will work, it depends on what your final target is and what workflow you want to get there. Can you post a Youtube link for a video that is similar in feel to what you want to deliver as your end product? edit: also what subjects and what style of content (eg science experiments on a desk, you in front of a physical whiteboard, virtual whiteboard/powerpoint presentations, etc.) Pablo Bluth fucked around with this message at 12:33 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 12:17
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Pablo Bluth posted:Being a Youtuber or Twitch streamer is all the rage these days so there's no end of Youtube channels that will walk you through gear and techniques. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-sqGZNdPzg this guy has good instructional videos, i'd like to do something similar but in reverse: english lessons for a japanese audience in japanese, but maybe some other stuff too quote:edit: also what subjects and what style of content (eg science experiments on a desk, you in front of a physical whiteboard, virtual whiteboard/powerpoint presentations, etc.) just me at a desk with a quiet background teaching stuff, i imagine i'd just overlay/splice tables and slides with explanations. id want a very calm sort of style
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Aug 4, 2020 13:36
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Is it OK to ask laptop questions in here? I have a T470 that I attempted to upgrade to a 1080p screen, which I've done before on an X series no problem. This time I have managed to mess it up, when I powered it on with the new screen installed there was no backlight, I could see the lenovo logo unilluminated. Swapped back to the original screen and got the same issue. An external monitor works just fine and when moving windows across to the internal screen I can see they're there, just no backlight. What have I done? It feels like maybe the connector is the issue but I've tried reseating it and no improvement.
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Aug 4, 2020 14:26
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Shibawanko posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-sqGZNdPzg this guy has good instructional videos, i'd like to do something similar but in reverse: english lessons for a japanese audience in japanese, but maybe some other stuff too One option is to throw in a USB HDMI capture device. This would let you stream direct to your PC. Using OBS Studio you could then do live compositing of your camera and whatever teaching aids. OBS is best known for being used by YouTubers and Twitch Streamers but it's equally at home being used to record locally.
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Aug 4, 2020 20:11
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Shibawanko posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-sqGZNdPzg this guy has good instructional videos, i'd like to do something similar but in reverse: english lessons for a japanese audience in japanese, but maybe some other stuff too It's surprisingly hard to hear what he's saying because of the audio setup actually. ufarn fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 20:19
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Is there a flash memory thread? I'm pretty sure my SanDisk micro sd card in the switch has corrupted beyond repair. I've tried formatting it quick and standard, using whatever program escapes me now to write raw data for the whole capacity, checked it with h2testw which oddly passed. But everytime I delete what's on it and format the card in Windows, when it's finished the files show back up and the file system shows exfat no matter if I fat32format it or ntfs with the Windows format program. Like it's not a big deal cause I can replace it due to sd cards being cheap, but I should just cut it and replace it right?
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Aug 5, 2020 02:08
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I downloaded Crystal Disk Info to check something on an external drive, and for the first time, looked at the SMART data on the two drives in my system. When I built the system, I bought a new Samsung 970 SSD and an HGST 4TB drive from Amazon, which was new, but it was a third party seller (fulfilled by Amazon) and arrived packaged like an OEM drive. The power on count for both drives is 199. The power on hours for the SSD though is 293 hours. The power on hours for the 4TB HDD are 847. I've heard of third party sellers taking refurbished drives and reselling them as new, and "fulfilled by Amazon" seems like a way they'd do that. I initially thought that's what happened here, however I can''t explain the power on/off count being the same for both drives. I'm hesitant to keep using this drive if it's a "refurbished but sold as new" drive - especially since I looked at the Amazon listing again this morning and there were several reviews on it from people saying they had early drive failures from disks purchased from the same seller.
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Aug 6, 2020 00:13
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What's the model number for the HGST drive? That particular SMART value may be incremented differently than expected, might be able to find out more information knowing the specific model. An HDD failing early on isn't too uncommon even with brand new disks. Do any of the reviews mention they were shipped a refurbished drive, or have strange SMART values?
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Aug 6, 2020 00:36
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LordOfThePants posted:I downloaded Crystal Disk Info to check something on an external drive, and for the first time, looked at the SMART data on the two drives in my system. When I built the system, I bought a new Samsung 970 SSD and an HGST 4TB drive from Amazon, which was new, but it was a third party seller (fulfilled by Amazon) and arrived packaged like an OEM drive. My Samsung 970 Pro has 54 power on counts and 4228 hours on. First brought online around 11/2018. My 4, 4 and 6 TB Seagate ironwolf pro mechanical drives have 52 and 51 power on counts, and all three are around 20140 hours. First brought online around 03/2018. The oldest drive in my system is a Samsung 850 Pro with 145 power on count and 43966 power on hours. First brought online around 10/2015. These numbers increment differently depending on the firmware flavor of the week/drive/connection/etc.
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Aug 6, 2020 00:50
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