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Thanks for the tips re: old gas, friendos.
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Aug 2, 2020 17:27
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^^ excellent sig/post comboCharles posted:You'll likely get an SRS light and might need somebody with a specialty scantool to reset it. It'd be helpful to know what kind of car. Did you have to unplug anything to remove the seat? Is the buckle still there? Sorry, 2005 Honda Civic. And yes, I did unplug the seat when I removed it. I've a OBD2 code reader, so throwing a code shouldn't be a problem. Seatbelt currently is still attached.
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Aug 2, 2020 17:56
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tuna posted:Thanks. The extra corrosion stuff sounds nice but I wonder if it holds up as well with physical wear/impact sockets and poo poo, or has seizing/antiseizing effects. I'll check back in 20 years with results. Subscribed!!
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Aug 2, 2020 18:26
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Nebakenezzer posted:^^ excellent sig/post combo Well if you cannot (most code scanners don't interface with the airbag computer), it's really easy on a Honda. Under the steering wheel by the fusebox there's a yellow connector called the MES connector or something. You just have to jump it with a paperclip in a specific pattern. https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/honda-how-to-reset-the-srs-light-376278
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Aug 2, 2020 18:26
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My car is dead, but I have a forlorn, silly hope. I'm in Australia if that matters. 2002 Honda CR-V "Sport" (KA24A1 2.4L I4 petrol). Owned for about 16 months with no serious issues. Last week, it overheated suddenly - having no history that we know about - and limped to a mechanic. They diagnosed a blown head gasket (chocolate milk under the rad cap) and severe sludging in the engine cooling system as well as warped heads. The upshot was: "you need a new engine". This is at the local combined Honda and Nissan dealership, where I assume they have lots of experience with cars like mine. It sounds like the water passages in the engine have become clogged with a non-water-soluble mix of gross crap & engine oil. Besides the warped heads and need for a new head gasket (assuming the heads could be machined for a non-silly cost), is there any way to save this engine? The really annoying thing - besides having a suddenly and surprisingly killed car - is the amount of money I've spent on this car in the last few months. In May it got new front brakes (rotors & pads) and a new tire, and just two weeks ago it got its every-two-years safety inspection which resulted in a new front-passenger seatbelt, for $700. Annual rego and "green slip" compulsory insurance just went through, too (literally the Friday before the Monday it overheated), though that ~$900 is partly refundable once the license plates come off. The car cost us $5000 in February of last year, and we've put about $2000 into it in various other smaller repairs before May of this year. At a guess, if it hadn't cooked its engine it might be worth $4000. There are the usual collection of non-engine niggling issues and looming expenses (clutch, tires, a few worrying creaks from the suspension) that also contribute heavily to the "It's dead, Jim" decision. We drove the car home - less than a kilometre from the dealership - to clean all of our stuff out of it and make decisions. My wife and I have pretty much settled on calling the local junkyard and having it go away later this week, but I thought I'd ask the SA Hive Mind, just for shits and giggles. What say you, goons, would you do some weird heroic effort to save this car? Besides keeping up with coolant flushes (GET YOUR COOLING SYSTEM FLUSHED), what would you do to prevent this kind of thing in future? Also, which thread should I post in for goon-arguments to reinforce my wife's eye-rolling against my stupid desires for a stupid replacement car? Is there still a BFC thread to talk about car-money? \/\/\/ sorry, forgot to mention the mechanic ballparked "a couple of thousand" for a replacement engine, sourced from a junkyard. I do not have the capacity to do the work at home so labour would be a big part of the cost of a replacement engine. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 03:04
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Instead of repairing the one in there, a junkyard motor swap might be an easier / cheaper option. Dunno about the land down under but I think that motor would be plentiful here in the states given how many CRVs they sold.
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Aug 3, 2020 03:14
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If you're paying for labor, the hours going into tearing the head off, checking the deck surfaces for flatness, and replacing all of it will add up quick. Whereas K24s are pretty cheap in junkyards.
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Aug 3, 2020 03:32
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2005 Honda Civic. Belongs to my son's friend. He & another mutual friend helped. Symptom: coolant magically disappears although the car runs great. Mud on rad cap & exhaust puffing out of te radiator also. Clean oil. Clean coolant. DX: Blown head gasket. Spent all day tearing it down. Head & block looked good. Gasket seal material was missing at #2 and #3 between the cylinder and the adjacent water ports. Cleaned it up, new head gasket. Tried to start it. Cranked irregularly for a minute. Put it on a charger. Friend #2 plugged in an OBDII reader. Car then started, apparently ran for about thirty seconds, then started hammering in the valve cover area (I was not present for any of this). Car will not start when the OBDII is disconnected. Net says it's a poor ground, but we reconnected everything. I think we somehow got the timing wrong & hammered the engine, which I assumed is interference. Not sure how, since we set up TDC & marked it on the crank, the cam and the belt - which was re-used. They're tearing it down again tomorrow. (edit) 8/3 FOLLOW UP: Yours truly loosened the camshaft sprocket nut during disassembly, and failed to tighten it during reassembly, creating the shortest-lived variable-valve timing Honda engine not created at the factory. I borescoped it this morning and found a few moons. Yikes. Resigned, I got the sprocket lined up on its pin and torqued it down. The shift was less than 1-sprocket, and the belt did not jump. Started her up & she runs fine, except for the leaky intake manifold gasket (Do the layered metal gaskets need doping, or are they supposed to be crush seals?). And she wasn't issuing exhaust from the radiator! One final problem: apparently someone (not me!) missed a crucial grounding connection somewhere; she won't start unless an OBDII reader is plugged in. We'll know soon PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 03:51
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Since we're talking about engines with blown head gaskets, here's the piston from that Z24 I posted about the other day:
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Aug 3, 2020 16:52
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What's the purpose of the currogated portion? Thermal management?
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Aug 3, 2020 16:59
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taqueso posted:What's the purpose of the currogated portion? Thermal management? That's the oil control ring. Its job is not so much to seal but to scrape off the excess oil from the cylinder wall. There are perforations behind the groove to let the oil drain out back into the block between the corrugations.
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Aug 3, 2020 17:05
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What is the recommended rocker spray fluid to try and fill them from the inside and stop any rust that has already started? I'm reasonable confident I can get this is Canada. https://shop.wurth.ca/rust-proofing-rust-remover/underbody-protections/cavity-protection-wax/CAVITY-PROTECTION-SPRAY/893.081/
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Aug 3, 2020 17:57
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ExecuDork posted:2002 Honda CR-V "Sport" (KA24A1 2.4L I4 petrol). Owned for about 16 months with no serious issues. So it sounds like you've put a good chunk of money into it recently. Most of that you won't get back if you junk it, right? As long as the car is in good shape, I'd find a good independent shop and get a used engine thrown in, if that cost is less than finding another vehicle that's essentially the same (year, kms, options, etc) including whatever it takes to get it roadworthy. There's "the devil you know" when it comes to fixing cars, and personally I'm more than willing to drop a good chunk of change on my cars vs replacing them, simply because I know what's been done to them over the past year or five.
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Aug 3, 2020 18:43
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STR posted:As long as the car is in good shape, I'd find a good independent shop and get a used engine thrown in, if that cost is less than finding another vehicle that's essentially the same (year, kms, options, etc) including whatever it takes to get it roadworthy. Bolded part for emphasis. Of course a dealership will quote you way higher than the job actually needs to be. Any of my cars older than 5 years only go to the dealership if it's something the dealer is gonna pay for.
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Aug 4, 2020 00:21
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Hmmm... this is leading to an awkward conversation with my wife, who believes we have already decided to kill the car - the last thing left to come out of it is the head unit I installed last year, then it's a phone call to the wreckers. The money in the car is spent, I'm well aware of my own tendencies regarding the sunk-cost fallacy. We are going to tell the junkyard what the various newer parts are and hope they give us a bit more. We might keep the newest tires and throw them up on Facebook marketplace, but we're not going to part it out on the driveway. We took it to the dealership because that's where it got the safety inspection, the independent-ish (chain) shop it had been to in May didn't pick up the phone when I called on Monday following the breakdown. We're always wary of dealerships for the reasons already stated, but so far our luck with the non-dealership shops around here has been disappointing. Long boring story aside, we haven't found anybody we're willing to really trust, yet. Which is frustrating. On the plus side for the dealership, they didn't charge us at all for the diagnosis and keeping the car in their shop for a week while we went on a long-prior-planned trip in a rented car. The dealership is also 3 blocks away, making it easy to walk home from a drop-off. The current plan is to kill the CRV and borrow a colleague's* old Ford Laser that her sons learned to drive on. The rego is expired but she offered it to us months ago when we moved to a house further from the university, so I could have a commuter until I sort out a more permanent daily-commute option (COVID-19 restrictions have been relatively light here in regional NSW). Basically, we can get it on the road for the cost of safety inspection, whatever turns up in the inspection, registration, and insurance (keeping in mind I expect to get almost all of the CRV's rego + insurance refunded). This is either much less than an engine replacement on the CRV or it's not worth it (i.e. large expense required to pass inspection) and we come up with a new plan. New plan is likely to be "no car" for a few months while we work out our finances. Not that our finances are particularly dire, just we're trying very hard to avoid running up any new debt while we're still paying down (successfully!) old debt. We liked the CRV but we have medium- and long-term plans that do not necessarily involve a car of that type. A big feature we're looking for in the next really-ours car (not the Laser, it's a stop-gap) is reliability and NOT having it break down on some random trip across town. Obviously, newer is better so I've been pondering cars that are not old enough to hit the bars. *she's kinda my boss, but we have a very good working relationship and I'll probably call her a friend if/when I end up in a different job. I do not anticipate any awkwardness spilling over into work from any issues surrounding this Ford Laser. On our trip we had a chance to discuss car ideas and plans. When my wife asked me: "what car would you buy if you had the money?" I blurted out "BMW M3 Convertible" which did not make her happy. "You'd take that on these gravel roads we drive on to go on camping trips!?". I shrugged and said yes, and we'd learn if we could live with a ridiculous non-practical car like that, and yeah, I'm hard on cars. But a clutch is a wear part, isn't it?? Thanks, all. I mostly wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some well-known and cheap technique to wash the crud out of the cooling system.
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Aug 4, 2020 01:44
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ExecuDork posted:We are going to tell the junkyard what the various newer parts are and hope they give us a bit more. They won't. ExecuDork posted:Long boring story aside, we haven't found anybody we're willing to really trust, yet. How that translates into "trust the dealership" is a mystery to me. ExecuDork posted:Hmmm... this is leading to an awkward conversation with my wife......... Yeah, there's an undertone of poo poo I'm not gonna touch in this subforum.
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Aug 4, 2020 01:51
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Even if you clean out the cooling system you still have to remove the head and deck it and replace the gasket.
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Aug 4, 2020 01:52
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BMW E46 330Ci coupe (blue) The ECU refuses to send signals to the vaucum solenoid that activates the muffler valve. I've checked the solenoid wiring, it gets power and the solenoid itself works, it just never gets activated by the ECU. I recently moved the car to enclosed parking and the low rpm drone on startup is a real problem. While I work out a better solution, I've bypassed the solenoid putting the 2 vacuum hoses together with an aquarium hose connector. This works great but the vacuum pressure never gets released even after the car is turned off. So stupid question, is keeping a vacuum system under constant vacuum going to damage anything?
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Aug 4, 2020 11:38
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RillAkBea posted:So stupid question, is keeping a vacuum system under constant vacuum going to damage anything? No. Parts of it (past the check valve, so brake booster, parts of the climate control systems on a lot of things, etc) already are.
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Aug 4, 2020 14:46
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Motronic posted:No. Parts of it (past the check valve, so brake booster, parts of the climate control systems on a lot of things, etc) already are. Cool, thank you! I'll eventually put the solenoid on a manual switch so I can BRAP at will, but nice to know I won't be breaking anything in the mean time.
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Aug 4, 2020 15:00
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Man, I knew that the Aussie Capris weren't the highest quality, but I'm getting pretty aggressive blowby on a NA engine with 91k on it. I'm on my 4th PCV valve and I'm somehow still venting oil and combustion gasses out of the exhaust side of the 2nd valve cover gasket I've installed on this engine I know that there's pretty severe tolerance issues with the rings in Cyl 1, but short of a rebuild, is there anything I can do to mitigate this problem for now? I know I need another PCV valve and probably need to replace the valve cover gasket again, but I'm getting pretty sick of doing the same repair so often
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Aug 4, 2020 22:22
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I was looking at the LadaPower website for replacement vibration dampening blocks and timing chain tensioner slipper block for my Niva. I saw a tensioner block that was a different assembly with a gear instead of the slipper. Is there any gain to be had from a gear based tensioner, or is it tuner snake oil? e: by gear I mean a sprocket General_Failure fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 09:30
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I de-badged my cx-5 earlier, and found that there are a few small holes. They were for pins on the logos. Can I leave these as is, or do I need to plug them somehow to prevent crap from getting inside the panel?
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Aug 6, 2020 02:25
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I de-badged my cx-5 earlier, and found that there are a few small holes. They were for pins on the logos. Can I leave these as is, or do I need to plug them somehow to prevent crap from getting inside the panel? You're definitely going to have to plug them. They may have what you need: https://bumperplugs.com/shop-by-make/bumperplugs-for-mazda
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Aug 6, 2020 03:27
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McTinkerson posted:You're definitely going to have to plug them. Your comment sent me searching and drat, I didn't realize this was going to be a thing at all when I decided to do this. Might have gone a different direction but oh well, we're here now! The holes are so small, I'm going to try putting white silicon caulk in them as a temporary solution and to see how they look. If it's awful (probably will be), I'll go the bondo + touch up paint marker I guess.
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Aug 6, 2020 18:13
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I just completed a cross country drive in a 2019 Tahoe and I noticed a paint chip on the front bumper and rear fender. The front bumper chip looks like it's peeling a bit. What's my best bet, a paint pen? I'm driving gravel roads a fair bit now so I don't know if it's worthwhile to try to keep on top of paint chips.
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Aug 6, 2020 18:55
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Your comment sent me searching and drat, I didn't realize this was going to be a thing at all when I decided to do this. Might have gone a different direction but oh well, we're here now! I have a Mazda3 and did the same, but when I was looking into it and seeing that even the dang mazda badge on the left had the holes. So I decided I would also remove the center mazda logo and then have a nice body shop do a proper fill and paint on it, not loving cheap though, also only on the hatches iirc. They actually welded a plug for the bigger holes from the logo and I believe just did bondo for the smaller ones so that should work depending on your level of OCD
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Aug 6, 2020 19:06
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simplefish posted:Could you glue some velcro onto the back of the kit box? That’s actually something I hadn’t thought of, good idea. However, I drive...spiritedly at times and would prefer to have it permanently mounted. All I need are two screws I can slot the first aid kit over, and then I can probably Velcro the back.  Next dumb question. 2017 Genesis G80, what goes here in the trunk lid? 
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Aug 7, 2020 15:30
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devmd01 posted:Next dumb question. 2017 Genesis G80, what goes here in the trunk lid? Warning triangle? Edit: Dang it, I should have done that with my storage slot! Uthor fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 15:48
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Other wild guess, umbrella holder?
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Aug 7, 2020 15:51
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C-Bangin' it 
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Aug 7, 2020 15:52
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Is there any good wireless Android auto adapter available? I have a new Honda Civic. The ones I can find online are all sketchy af and/or require you to hack the head unit. Is it even possible right now to get wireless Android auto without replacing the factory equipment?
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Aug 7, 2020 17:25
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Is there any good wireless Android auto adapter available? I have a new Honda Civic. Well, Android Auto uses so much bandwidth that Bluetooth isn't enough, so it has to go with WiFi or wired USB. Some factory head units do have built in WiFi for firmware updates and such. I'd imagine that the wireless offerings would be some sort of proprietary configured WiFi to USB bridge, as I don't see the head units natively supporting standard WiFi dongles in ad hoc mode without hacking as you mentioned. Then again, if you got that sort of access inside the system, why not use the built in WiFi adapter? Unfortunately, "proprietary" usually means "sketchy". Think about it. You're trying to get your phone to see a WiFi connection and your head unit to see a USB connection. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 23:32
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That's a good point. This seems like a futile question now. Thanks bruv I'd be grateful if anyone who reads this has some personal experience with any of these types of adapters and if they actually did what they advertised. vvv thanks!! Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Aug 9, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 05:19
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I've heard of some people hacking Fire Sticks to do it. I have no idea how far along that software is though.
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Aug 8, 2020 06:19
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Cory Parsnipson posted:That's a good point. This seems like a futile question now. Thanks bruv Me again. You might want to ask over in the Inspect Your Gadgets forum here. They might have more answers about tech than us gearheads.
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Aug 8, 2020 17:55
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I figure this is the closest right spot to ask. I want to hone a cylinder. Well, its not a cylinder (from an engine) just the inside of some DOM tubing. I figure on just getting a brake cylinder hone and using that. This is probably a task I'll do once and never again, and I'll be stuck with a hone collecting dust. Never the less, I don't want the stones to get hosed up just in case. Whenever I see, or have heard of cylinder hones being used, its always with some sort of lubricant. Wheel cylinders are supposed to use brake fluid, while engine cylinders us some sort of engine oil. What sort of lubricant should I use for this? I don't need any kind of cross hatch or bullshit like that, I just want to protect the honing stones that will probably never get used again. Should I just go with whatever remnants of engine oil I can find sitting around the shop that hasn't actually been drained from an engine? I'm not trying to over think this, but I probably already have...
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Aug 8, 2020 19:45
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Found the answer to my question after looking at parts diagrams, it’s for a warning triangle. However, I think I can find an umbrella about that size and shove it into the clamp. https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-holder-assy-t-lid-w-triangles~85780-3t000.html
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Aug 8, 2020 20:41
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Is there an AI Discord server? I have a 2003 cop car with a bad ECU (I assume, replaced all the plugs and coils to no effect, it was an acting V6 when I last drove it 3 years ago.) I can now afford to fix it. Needs a battery, brain box, new gas, anything I'm missing? Do I need the paperwork to renew the long-lapsed Texas registration, of can they look it up from the license plate?
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Aug 9, 2020 04:50
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Is there an AI Discord server? I have a 2003 cop car with a bad ECU (I assume, replaced all the plugs and coils to no effect, it was an acting V6 when I last drove it 3 years ago.) I can now afford to fix it. Needs a battery, brain box, new gas, anything I'm missing? Do I need the paperwork to renew the long-lapsed Texas registration, of can they look it up from the license plate? To register it, you just need to take the title to the DMV. They'll register it and give you new plates on the spot. If you lost the title, you can apply for a duplicate one. As for the rest, you'll have to get a proper diagnosis to figure out what it needs. Shotgunning parts is expensive and often doesn't actually fix the problem.
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Aug 9, 2020 05:08
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