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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Why the gently caress everything cost so much money and also we have to pay so much Taxes Hellworld, dude. Glad I could help; please rate my answer 5 stars and like/subscribe to be the first to know about such useful shitposts. E: Rates his own post 1-star for starting a new page with this horseshit.
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Jul 19, 2020 03:55
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Is there a certain length of time you can be unemployed for before you can qualify for unemployment, regardless of why you left your last job? I quit my previous job last December to get away from an abusive boss/work environment. I was scared of them giving me a bad reference to any future places I applied to, so I did everything I could to keep my reason for leaving under wraps and just quietly turned in my resignation. Obviously I didn't qualify for unemployment after that. (I applied anyway a few months ago, but got turned down right quick.) I had a good 6-8 month emergency fund, and I thought I'd be able to find something pretty easily. Well, back in December, I didn't really predict a global pandemic. Now I'm kind of hosed... lol... 
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Jul 30, 2020 04:40
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just noticed today that my payroll deductions add up to $1488 
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Jul 30, 2020 16:35
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mekyabetsu posted:Is there a certain length of time you can be unemployed for before you can qualify for unemployment, regardless of why you left your last job? I quit my previous job last December to get away from an abusive boss/work environment. I was scared of them giving me a bad reference to any future places I applied to, so I did everything I could to keep my reason for leaving under wraps and just quietly turned in my resignation. Obviously I didn't qualify for unemployment after that. (I applied anyway a few months ago, but got turned down right quick.) I had a good 6-8 month emergency fund, and I thought I'd be able to find something pretty easily. Well, back in December, I didn't really predict a global pandemic. Now I'm kind of hosed... lol... Did you apply for the various pandemic things? The $600/week federal stuff I think applies to anyone unemployed, even if you don't qualify for your states unemployment. Also you should appeal your unemployment decision, though time has likely hurt you there. If you left for "constructive dismissal" then you can potentially win but would need evidence to support your claim. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:just noticed today that my payroll deductions add up to $1488 Here I thought our Klipart friend would be the one with those deductions.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:17
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H110Hawk posted:Did you apply for the various pandemic things? The $600/week federal stuff I think applies to anyone unemployed, even if you don't qualify for your states unemployment. Also you should appeal your unemployment decision, though time has likely hurt you there. If you left for "constructive dismissal" then you can potentially win but would need evidence to support your claim. Definitely appeal. My Partner owns her of business and had two people give letters of resignation (actual emails saying they quit) when she started to open back up after 2 months of being closed. They both filed for UI, she provided the state (Colorado) all the info, and 2 months later now they basically are saying that she didn't give them a bona fide offer to return and they are getting UI. She wouldn't really care expect usually the more you have people on UI the higher the rate the employer has to pay (although we will see what happens since this is all pandemic related). So the long and short is appeal and see what happens.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:46
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:just noticed today that my payroll deductions add up to $1488 Now I had to go look at mine.... $1513. Although after my august 15th pay check that will drop to $160 as my 401k will be maxed out.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:49
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H110Hawk posted:Did you apply for the various pandemic things? The $600/week federal stuff I think applies to anyone unemployed, even if you don't qualify for your states unemployment. Also you should appeal your unemployment decision, though time has likely hurt you there. I haven't heard about the $600 applying even if the state denies unemployment. I thought the +$600 was given to people via their state's unemplyoment. How would the $600 get to people if not via unemployment? I guess I'll try appealing. I generally just assume I'm hosed in any situation involving money. It's really driven home the idea that if you willingly quit your job, for any reason whatsoever, then everything is your fault and you deserve to be homeless. I've applied for state assistance for some things like medical assistance, but most of the "help pay bills" applications stop after the "were you fired or did you quit" question.  Edit: I do believe that people who were unwillingly laid off or fired should absolutely take priority over people who quit willingly. mekyabetsu fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 00:31
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mekyabetsu posted:I haven't heard about the $600 applying even if the state denies unemployment. I thought the +$600 was given to people via their state's unemplyoment. How would the $600 get to people if not via unemployment? Push those buttons, see if you can get that trump universal basic income. What's the worst that happens? They say no?
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Jul 31, 2020 01:47
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Did my annual re-evaluation of retirement savings rates and bumped my 401k contribution up to 6% and my wife's up to 7%. This is on top of being on track to max Roth IRAs in 2020 
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Jul 31, 2020 13:51
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H110Hawk posted:Push those buttons, see if you can get that trump universal basic income. What's the worst that happens? They say no? I filed an appeal, and I have an appointment to speak to an "unemployment judge" to argue my case... in October lol 
mekyabetsu fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 21:42
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drive me nuts to school posted:Did my annual re-evaluation of retirement savings rates and bumped my 401k contribution up to 6% and my wife's up to 7%. This is on top of being on track to max Roth IRAs in 2020 That's awesome!
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Jul 31, 2020 22:19
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Anyone ever have luck getting a bank you don’t have an account with to cash out paper EE bonds? I’m getting a lot of nos from branches so far. My wife has a stack of them and neither of our credit unions do it, and I’m hesitant to mail them in to treasury if I don’t have to.
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Aug 5, 2020 16:48
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Marman1209 posted:Anyone ever have luck getting a bank you don’t have an account with to cash out paper EE bonds? I’m getting a lot of nos from branches so far. I don't know where you are but I cashed in some at a Chase bank a year or so ago, they seem to be just about everywhere in the US, maybe open a new account for this and then just close it soon afterward? Plenty of big name banks will even give you a couple hundred bucks to open a new account these days. Edit: in fact here's a list of current account opening bonus offers: https://www.doctorofcredit.com/best-bank-account-bonuses/
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Aug 5, 2020 17:04
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I’ve had a Wells Fargo checking account since the days that it was actually a Wachovia account. I’ve finally decided that I want to uproot and move checking over to Ally because (1) I already have my savings there and would like faster transfers (2) I don’t use brick and mortar anything for this account and finally (3) gently caress Wells Fargo. Can anyone give any downside to doing it? It’s just a checking account but I figured I’d see if there’s anything I’m not considering before closing something I’ve had since I was a teenager
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Aug 15, 2020 14:45
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Rolo posted:I’ve had a Wells Fargo checking account since the days that it was actually a Wachovia account. I’ve finally decided that I want to uproot and move checking over to Ally because (1) I already have my savings there and would like faster transfers (2) I don’t use brick and mortar anything for this account and finally (3) gently caress Wells Fargo. You will gently caress them more to keep it and you will get brick and mortar services for the random times you want it. Turn back on paper billing to gently caress them more and help the post office. You can not care about faster transfers with a little bit of planning you should already be doing - that is where I would focus. I have a checking account at a big brick and mortar plus ally. It comes in handy like once a year. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 16:31
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Rolo posted:I’ve had a Wells Fargo checking account since the days that it was actually a Wachovia account. I’ve finally decided that I want to uproot and move checking over to Ally because (1) I already have my savings there and would like faster transfers (2) I don’t use brick and mortar anything for this account and finally (3) gently caress Wells Fargo. I walked away from Wells and to a credit union maybe 10 years ago now, never regretted it for a second. It's still important to have a brick and mortar account somewhere, just in case of depositing cash or whatever. Find a CU near your place, open a account with $20, turn on eStatements, and forget about it until you need it for something Ally can't handle.
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Aug 15, 2020 17:41
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BigDave posted:I walked away from Wells and to a credit union maybe 10 years ago now, never regretted it for a second. Oh that’s a good idea, I’ll do that.
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Aug 15, 2020 18:10
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My mom's unemployment money finally started coming. She applied back in April... loving assholes. But there's another hurdle in that she's forced to open a Bank of America account to receive this money, plus she's only allowed to transfer $5,000 a week to her credit union while the rest has to sit at Bank of America. Why is Bank of America involved in this at all and why can't california just deposit the money directly. Assholes.
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Aug 15, 2020 22:24
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Mu Zeta posted:My mom's unemployment money finally started coming. She applied back in April... loving assholes. But there's another hurdle in that she's forced to open a Bank of America account to receive this money, plus she's only allowed to transfer $5,000 a week to her credit union while the rest has to sit at Bank of America. Why is Bank of America involved in this at all and why can't california just deposit the money directly. Assholes. At least for PFL you can get checks in the mail, is that not an option for unemployment? I found it super seedy that BofA was involved at all. We tried to spend 100% of the money we received like 8 or 10 years ago at the liquor store using the debit card. You can try going to a branch, at least then you're costing BofA more money.
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Aug 16, 2020 00:15
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Mu Zeta posted:My mom's unemployment money finally started coming. She applied back in April... loving assholes. But there's another hurdle in that she's forced to open a Bank of America account to receive this money, plus she's only allowed to transfer $5,000 a week to her credit union while the rest has to sit at Bank of America. Why is Bank of America involved in this at all and why can't california just deposit the money directly. Assholes. She does not need to open an account, EDD payments are separate. You can just login here https://prepaid.bankofamerica.com/EddCard
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Aug 16, 2020 00:27
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H110Hawk posted:At least for PFL you can get checks in the mail, is that not an option for unemployment? I found it super seedy that BofA was involved at all. We tried to spend 100% of the money we received like 8 or 10 years ago at the liquor store using the debit card. You can try going to a branch, at least then you're costing BofA more money. I set it up for her months ago and assumed that getting the money deposited into the debit card would be faster than waiting for checks in the mail. I didn't know the payments would be delayed for 4 months and come all at once. Guess it's good that it's coming at all.
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Aug 16, 2020 22:42
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Mu Zeta posted:I set it up for her months ago and assumed that getting the money deposited into the debit card would be faster than waiting for checks in the mail. I didn't know the payments would be delayed for 4 months and come all at once. Guess it's good that it's coming at all. Yeah that sucks that it took so long. If she has future benefits see if you can update it to checks. Then you can deposit them with whatever banking app she has on her phone.
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Aug 17, 2020 00:08
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Rolo posted:I’ve had a Wells Fargo checking account since the days that it was actually a Wachovia account. I’ve finally decided that I want to uproot and move checking over to Ally because (1) I already have my savings there and would like faster transfers (2) I don’t use brick and mortar anything for this account and finally (3) gently caress Wells Fargo. I walked away from Wells Fargo for many of the same reasons a few years ago. Basically get a local credit union account somewhere nearby, and keep your Ally account for the higher savings. Thats what I've done and it works pretty well. It still takes about 3 days to transfer between my Ally and CU accounts but its thankfully not a big occurrence that I need to pull money out of savings.
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Aug 17, 2020 13:44
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I asked this in long term investing as well, but seeing as my company has canceled 401k matching due to pandemic economic impact, would I be better served to cancel my contributions and throw that money at the credit card debt I've been working on?
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Sep 3, 2020 11:45
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Beach Bum posted:I asked this in long term investing as well, but seeing as my company has canceled 401k matching due to pandemic economic impact, would I be better served to cancel my contributions and throw that money at the credit card debt I've been working on? "Better served" is complicated, since you could mean from a mathematical perspective or from a mental victory perspective. It also is affected by a bunch of factors, like: What's the CC interest rate? How old are you? How much is the CC debt? Once your CC debt is gone, do you have the discipline to start with your 401k again, or would you start spending it? How much do you make? How much are you putting into the 401k and into the CC debt? Does your 401k take massive fees, or are they decent expense ratios? Also, an option that min/maxers often don't like is that you can do both, in that you could lower your 401k a little bit to speed up the CC debt payoff but not lower it to 0. Personally, I'm not a fan of lowering 401k contributions, because the more you can put into retirement early on the better. That said, I also know the burden that gets lifted from paying off debts, so I don't really think there's a wrong choice here.
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Sep 3, 2020 15:53
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sorry if your CC debt is at 17% you should prioritize the CC debt full fuckin stop
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Sep 3, 2020 15:57
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:sorry if your CC debt is at 17% you should prioritize the CC debt full fuckin stop Especially since there is no matching on the 401k contributions
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Sep 3, 2020 16:03
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You guys were a lot more direct than the LTI thread. At the moment it seems that the letter notifying us about the discontinuation of the match was merely "We are no longer obligated to provide a match but we might if we feel like it. Talking to the Fidelity rep this morning it seems I still got my match on my last check, but today's contribution hasn't hit Fidelity yet so I can't see if it was still there for this check quite yet. Rep and I agreed that I should check back in on my transactions on Monday to see if the match is still there and act accordingly.
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Sep 3, 2020 16:15
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:sorry if your CC debt is at 17% you should prioritize the CC debt full fuckin stop
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Sep 4, 2020 05:02
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*snip* in hindsight I decided I don't want to spam threads just because I'm excited but in the spirit of  the gist is here.
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Sep 8, 2020 |
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Sep 7, 2020 19:53
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Congrats (I think?) on the modding, Leperflesh. Aside from contributing a shitload of fantastic BFC content, you seem very fair.
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Oct 7, 2020 14:33
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No real input needed, just thought this was funny. Only debt is my house, charged a $13.3k replacement AC unit to a credit card a couple of weeks ago and paid it off this week. Score tanks almost 100 points anyway 
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Oct 15, 2020 19:21
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BlackMK4 posted:No real input needed, just thought this was funny. That is so weird. Not asking any other questions since you said no input required. No puzzle to solve, I'll keep my mouth shut.  Meanwhile...quote:Total Debt quote:On October 15, 2020 your score increased by 9 points. (From 782 to 791.) I lost more points (according to Creditwise) for the credit checks associated with my mortgage than from actually taking on a $670K mortgage. It makes no sense to me. 
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Oct 16, 2020 02:32
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Because the mortgage is secured?
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Oct 17, 2020 00:53
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I have no idea where to ask this question, so I might as well do it here. Before I begin, I want to say I am not a finance guy so I don't know if I'm thinking of definitions and concepts in the right way. I am very confused about a common statement that I hear which is "higher risk means higher expected returns". I hear this often when people talk about value and small-cap stocks overperforming. I don't see why this should be true. From what I understand, this comes from the stock prices of companies coming from discounted future cash flows. The usual equation that I see is that the current price of a future cash flow is X/(1+r) where r is some discount rate coming from risk and X is the expected future cash flow. I will assume here that X means cash flow under normal circumstances and not a true "expectation" that already takes various risks into account because otherwise the problem just further compounds. My main question is why should your expected returns be higher? I understand that if things turn out well, then you end up getting X in the future which is higher than the amount you paid for it today. But there is also the chance you get something lower than X because of the various risks you were thinking about and those should happen often enough to drag down your expected returns to be in line with the price you paid. Why then should I get a higher expected return? Is it that people tend to over-discount risk so that the drag of the risky occurences don't matter as much? Am I thinking about this in a completely wrong way? drainpipe fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Nov 21, 2020 |
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Nov 21, 2020 17:31
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drainpipe posted:I have no idea where to ask this question, so I might as well do it here. Before I begin, I want to say I am not a finance guy so I don't know if I'm thinking of definitions and concepts in the right way. I've been accustomed to thinking of "risk" usually referring to volatility. The standard deviation of returns for small cap and value stocks has been higher than for large cap and growth for the past century. So if your timeline for investing is several decades, then there is a decent chance that the rate of return over that reaaaaaallllly long time time period may result in the cumulative returns for those assets to be greater in those particular categories. Unfortunately, I have no crystal ball, so who knows? I don't ususally invest at the granular level of each individual company , so the deepest I ever go is looking at PE ratios of different classes (really, the CAPE 10 to know the longer trend) and adjust my expectations ("stocks seem expensive now, so maybe returns won't be as high as they were for the next decade"). It's more to be conservative with my expectations, and save more of my money to meet my goals for tempered expectations. TL,DR: There's no guarantee of anything but a review of really long time periods have shown this at random times, and it may or may not happen again. Pick a plan and stick with it for the best possible chance of success.
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Nov 21, 2020 18:42
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drainpipe posted:I am very confused about a common statement that I hear which is "higher risk means higher expected returns". Hopefully this is somewhat of a decent analogy, but please take me to task if it's not right: A large part of the risk/return curve relates to volatility. Suppose I ask you to buy a ticket to roll a die ten times. In the first game, every number you roll guarantees you win $1, so you're going to get $10 back, 100% guaranteed. Now suppose I ask you to buy a ticket to roll a die ten times, but with the following rules: If you roll a 1,2, or 3, you lose $10. If you roll a 4,5,or 6, you win $12. How much would you pay for the first ticket? How much would you pay for the second ticket? Would it be the same amount, since the expected return of each game is $10? What about if you only had $20 on you, so that if you hit a losing streak in the second game you would have to stop playing altogether and never recoup your losses? What about if you had to buy lunch at the end of the game, so you needed to have at least enough money left for a sandwich or you would go hungry? In the real world, volatility matters - people need to retire at some point, and they can't pretend that they're going to be playing the markets for infinity. There's more demand for a sure payout, which means if you can accept the risk of a losing streak, your tickets are going to be cheaper (and your ROI commensurately higher) - since people don't want to play the second game as much as they want a sure payout. That's why annuities exist.
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Nov 21, 2020 20:28
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Ah ok, so this was what I had thought. People will discount more based on volatility than probability deems necessary which drives down prices more than the increased risk is hurting performance. Thanks!
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Nov 21, 2020 20:52
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I apologize if this is the wrong place to ask, but I have recently quit my job voluntarily, and am now basically looking to move to somewhere I hate less. I can post what I do for a living, what I want as far as a living situation goes, etc, etc, but don't want to type it all out if this is the wrong thread. Should I ask somewhere else?
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Nov 24, 2020 09:30
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what's your question, exactly?
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Nov 24, 2020 12:46
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