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I now own a house with 2800sqft on one level and one very large air conditioning unit. Challenge: My son's room is 76 degrees while I'm wearing a parka in the guest bedroom. The AC has all the juice in the world but it isn't going in the right place. I thought it was strange that the family moving out of this house didn't use the two obvious child rooms for their young daughter, instead she was in the guest room in a separate part of the house with an individual bath. I think I know why now. Edit to add: This house was built 5 years ago so the ducting in the attic looks flawless, I don't think this is a situation of something being broken but I'm wondering if I can fix it just by closing some of the vents partially. The previous home owner was not handy at all so I doubt they touched a thing.
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Aug 10, 2020 20:39
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Andy Dufresne posted:I now own a house with 2800sqft on one level and one very large air conditioning unit. Challenge: My son's room is 76 degrees while I'm wearing a parka in the guest bedroom. The AC has all the juice in the world but it isn't going in the right place. Sounds like you need to add a cold air jumper or two. Edit: if one room in particular is getting too cold you could add a damper.
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Aug 10, 2020 20:50
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I hope that my days of going to home depot and fixing everything will slow down once I move in. I just found a gap above the closet door from the inside. SHOULD I use flex seal or caulking or what? https://imgur.com/a/0m3z9SP Also, I have a plastic anchor that's coming loose. Is gorilla glue a suitable solution? Would filling it with joint compound be the more durable option of the two? Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 22:17
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Just caulk that.
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Aug 10, 2020 22:25
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How likely is it that two garage door openers have literally identical signals/identifiers, so that clearing the memory would still let someone else open your garage door? (e.g., wake up in the morning and your garage door is open, when you 100% know you shut it.) This, versus something being broken and triggering on its own? For scale's sake, there are 317 units in my development and ~30 within signal reach of my door give or take?
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Aug 10, 2020 22:33
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The few times I "knew" I shut my garage door and found it open later, it was because something fell into the optical beam, or the sun made the optical beam malfunction. One time it was a squirrel. Far more likely that than a rogue opener signal, I would think. Edit: Quick googling says it's possible, and also says you can re-program your codes. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 23:16
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Sundae posted:How likely is it that two garage door openers have literally identical signals/identifiers, so that clearing the memory would still let someone else open your garage door? (e.g., wake up in the morning and your garage door is open, when you 100% know you shut it.) This, versus something being broken and triggering on its own? It is not super common but it happened to me at the last place I rented.
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Aug 10, 2020 23:32
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MayakovskyMarmite posted:Bought a house and now need to worry about lawn care. Anyone have a recommendation for an electric lawnmower for a pretty small yard? Just blow your budget for something like the Makita/Ryobi/Black and Decker/etc "system" where you can use the 60v batteries for the mower/trimmer/blower/chainsaw/etc etc etc as you buy them. I have the B&D one and it's been fine for a few years now. Mower/trimmer/blower and 4 60v batteries. I would probably spring for the Makita if I did it again though, since a lot of my other battery operated tools are Makita. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 23:51
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I've got a Greenworks mower and snowblower and I've been pretty happy with it.
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Aug 11, 2020 00:07
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Andy Dufresne posted:I now own a house with 2800sqft on one level and one very large air conditioning unit. Challenge: My son's room is 76 degrees while I'm wearing a parka in the guest bedroom. The AC has all the juice in the world but it isn't going in the right place. Quick solution is if you can partially close the register in the guest room it'll get less air and the rest of the house gets more. Then go to he next coldest room and limit that one, until the desired effect is reached. Longer solution is to put a damper in that duct (assuming there isn't one already) which would limit the air to the guest room and again push more air to the rest of the house. Again you'll have to balance out the house by trial and error. Longest solution is to calculate the demand for each room in the house and determine the proper supply on the hottest of days, and adjust the airflow to each room accordingly. Then listen to the tenant complaints and put the dampers a little out of balance through trial and error until they're all satisfied. It's trial and error all the way down. You reminded me of a long shelved project I had to fix a register boot, which I just did. It had been mangled when someone recarpeted, and I could see right thru to the basement. But I wanted to wait until summer when the heat was off so I could properly mastic in the new one. Turns out it was a weird size that I couldn't order a replacement for easily, so I bashed it back into shape and remounted it. This time with pookie applied to the topside on all the seams. I hope that makes my living room a little more pleasant, but I know it was one of those repairs with no obvious impact. I also spent some time applying pookie to every joint I could get to that was wrapped in crispy duct tape. Now it was pretty nice duct tape, so maybe this was legit but now it's more legit. Hard to believe someone would use duct tape on this joint, looks like more of a pain than the two minutes I spent with the mastic.  Edit, that was a midway shot, to be clear the flat to round duct transitions are all pookied now.
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Aug 11, 2020 00:14
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Honestly I can't fault anyone who uses duct tape on ducts. It's a wonder product that works on just about everything...except ducts. I would bet the vast majority of people do not know this.
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Aug 11, 2020 00:43
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Bioshuffle posted:I hope that my days of going to home depot and fixing everything will slow down once I move in. I just found a gap above the closet door from the inside. SHOULD I use flex seal or caulking or what? You have a bunch of knockdown. Nobody gonna notice the difference there. Caulk it. I'd suggest a latex caulk. Have a bowl of warm water and a sponge at the ready. Put the caulk on either from a squeeze tube or caulking gun, wet your fingers with the warm water and smooth it out/remove the excess. Clean your fingers on the sponge. Repeat until it looks right. If yuo take too much off......it's fine. Add a bit more. You cabn push it around with your wet fingers. You can clean up the edges/excess with the sponge. For more bumpers around this use painter's tape. Tape 1/4 inch or less off the door trim and the same off the wall. Make the caulk "squish" into that space. Make sure you get it down thin near the borders of the tape so you don't end up with an edge. Bioshuffle posted:Also, I have a plastic anchor that's coming loose. Is gorilla glue a suitable solution? Would filling it with joint compound be the more durable option of the two? Is the is drywall anchor? If so, no.....so not use gorilla glue. In fact there are very few places I'd suggest you use that. Unless it's in the right place and you lknow what you are doing it will make a mess. This is not a know on the product: it's the right thing at the right time. If we're talking drywall anchor that has pulled out find a bigger one or use a toggle if you can in that spot. Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Aug 11, 2020 |
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Aug 11, 2020 02:08
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Thanks! I'm glad I didn't just trust some random guy on YouTube who said gorilla glue was the fix. Thankfully I have some painter's caulk ready to go. I laid down some silicone caulk earlier and it did not go as planned. My dumbass set the tape too close together, so there's a raised edge. Oh well. The bigger issue was the tape peeling off all the paint. Live and learn, I guess. Nothing a utility knife and a sanding block couldn't fix. The drywall anchor is for a shelf bracket, so I'll get some toggle anchors. The previous owners had used super tiny baby nails to hang up the mirrors--I need something sturdier. Good thing they come in a multipack. With all but three rooms of the house painted, I'm just about move in ready. The wife wants the directv satellite gone, but I told her it wouldn't be as easy as unbolting it and giving it the heave ho. The biggest concern on my front is the patio door that's sagging. I can see some light leaking on the top left side. The previous owners already used longer screws to bolster the top hinge, so I'm trying to figure out what to try next. The sag is so bad the previous owners removed the strike plate to the deadbolt so the bolt would fit in. I know I can chip away with a chisel to lower the strike plate, but that doesn't address the sag. Should I try adding a shim to the bottom door hinge?
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Aug 11, 2020 04:48
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Keyser_Soze posted:Just blow your budget for something like the Makita/Ryobi/Black and Decker/etc "system" where you can use the 60v batteries for the mower/trimmer/blower/chainsaw/etc etc etc as you buy them. Can confirm, the makita stuff is really nice, their range is huge, and the batteries are really good. I've got a line trimmer, hedge clippers, angle grinder, impact driver and drill and each are without fault. The knockoff aliexpress tools are good too, just use the genuine batteries. For mowing I don't have a huge garden and like making nice stripes so I use a manual reel mower. Takes twenty minutes and looks pretty good. 
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Aug 11, 2020 10:21
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Bioshuffle posted:
If the mount seems to be done right and secure you may find the better approach to be trying to remove as much as possible above the mount and leaving it as is for now until you can dedicate time to re-weatherproofing whatever it’s bolted into. Also an excuse to sawzall something if it doesn’t have bolts.
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Aug 11, 2020 10:56
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We're finally getting our deck re-done to be a screened-in porch + a side deck. Or at least we've contacted a bunch of builders to start the process, and this morning the replies are starting to roll in. Anyone have suggestions on what to include or what NOT to include? So far we've pretty much convinced ourselves of composite. I feel like accent lighting can mostly be added later if we decide we want it. We're going to get outlets both inside the screened portion and on the unscreened portion, and a fan box for the screened portion.. I'm not entirely sold on those "eze-breeze" windows, but skylights would be nice. Still kind of debating built-in benches on the unscreened portion. For reference, we're in NC and the deck is south facing. Anything we're missing, or anything to watch out for? I feel like there are a bunch of options that are either "hey definitely do this" or "don't bother with that."
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Aug 11, 2020 14:58
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We kind of need to know how you plan on using it and how often.
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Aug 11, 2020 16:08
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Bioshuffle posted:I laid down some silicone caulk earlier and it did not go as planned. My dumbass set the tape too close together, so there's a raised edge. FYI, silicone caulk is much more difficult than vinyl. This should go much easier. You can literally wipe it all off the wall with your sponge if you screw up before it starts hardening. Bioshuffle posted:The drywall anchor is for a shelf bracket, so I'll get some toggle anchors. The previous owners had used super tiny baby nails to hang up the mirrors--I need something sturdier. Good thing they come in a multipack. Yeah, don't use anchors for shelves. That's just asking for problems later. Toggles or those modified toggle type things (that fold up as you tighten them) should do the trick. Just get something rated for more weight than you expect because you know somebody's gonna go try to load it up with books or rocks at some point in the future. It always happens. Bioshuffle posted:The biggest concern on my front is the patio door that's sagging. I can see some light leaking on the top left side. The previous owners already used longer screws to bolster the top hinge, so I'm trying to figure out what to try next. The sag is so bad the previous owners removed the strike plate to the deadbolt so the bolt would fit in. I'd be pulling the trim on one or both sides to see what's going on. The frame is rotting, it wasn't shimmed properly, whatever sill plate it's sitting on has rotted........ Anything less is temporary. You're trying to get moved in so temporary is fine as long as you know it's temporary. I can't suggest whether shimming the hinge or chiseling out the strike plate will be better. You need to look and see if the frame is racked too badly - if you shim the hings the door might not close anymore, in which case your quick fix is lowering the striker plate. But honestly.......you should budget for a new door. That's the most expensive part of your worst case scenario and honestly it's the easiest way to fix it right. Because chances are you're going to find something that requires you to pull the door out to fix, and at that point why both putting a door/frame back in that has already been messed up from not being supported properly and has a bunch of PO and your hacks to make it temporarily work again.
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Aug 11, 2020 16:40
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First house, moving today, first project was to replace the 6 inch deep double basin kitchen sink with a single basin deeper sink. I talked with a plumber yesterday about it. Apparently the cabinet is only 29 inches wide and the hole in the top is for a 33 inch sink. It looks like here they just didn’t put in any side clips so the sink can wobble if you pull on the faucet handle. All sinks in this size seem to require a 36 inch cabinet so we seem boned. Instead of just replacing the sink our options are to bandaid the comically low faucet by buying a swan neck one (and perhaps making it wobble more since the center of gravity is even higher) or redo the countertops and add in a smaller under mounted deep sink like in our now vacated apartment. We do like that sink... Also somehow our 80s tub valve handle thing that turns the water on snapped off when turning it on to show the plumber something. Jesus Christ. We had thought in a month or two to update the bath faucet/handle but well...You can shove the handle back on in the short term! This was supposed to be a quick victory stuff to get the ball rolling but yikes.
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Aug 11, 2020 16:41
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DaveSauce posted:Anyone have suggestions on what to include or what NOT to include? You already mentioned the outlets, but I’d just say make sure anything that has to go “through” the screen should be installed before the screen frame is built. Maybe consider an extra conduit for the future lighting if it’s applicable. You didn’t mention size, but make sure beforehand that you don’t end up saying “boy I wish we had two fans back here”.
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Aug 11, 2020 16:54
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Hawkeye posted:First house, moving today, first project was to replace the 6 inch deep double basin kitchen sink with a single basin deeper sink. I talked with a plumber yesterday about it. You'll laugh at it later if you're not now. You may find a replacement bath handle at the hardware store, both Ace or the bigger ones. It won't be an exact match but it will be a functional match. They're available since the alternative is so drat expensive.
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Aug 11, 2020 16:58
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Sounds like it’s Vise Grip time !!
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Aug 11, 2020 17:02
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Bioshuffle posted:Thanks! I'm glad I didn't just trust some random guy on YouTube who said gorilla glue was the fix. Silicone caulk, in the future, get a bottle of spray way window cleaner, after you lay down a bead of caulk, spray it and wipe. It will prevent the caulk from sticking to your finger and to anything surrounding the bead. That will leave you with a nice bead provided you didn't spread way too much to begin with. Drywall anchors, I use zip toggles for anything substantial. Good strength and reusable when you need to remove something and has a nice appearance. And easy to install, every other kind has been a pain in the rear end for one reason or another. Either you drop the wingding in the wall, or it doesn't spread right or it's weak. And most are fine but when it doesn't work it's awful, since usually you only get one shot at it. Break one off and now the hole is too big from trying to remove it.
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Aug 11, 2020 17:06
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Hawkeye posted:This was supposed to be a quick victory stuff to get the ball rolling but yikes. Hi homeowner, welcome to owning a home, every project may be 1 trip to home depot or 8 it may be 15 min fix, it may be 8 hrs.. no one knows.
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Aug 11, 2020 20:04
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And each fix reveals 1D6 additional projects.
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Aug 11, 2020 20:07
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SpartanIvy posted:And each fix reveals 1D6 additional projects. i think a D10 would be more accurate.. used as 0-9
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Aug 11, 2020 20:17
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SpartanIvy posted:And each fix reveals 1D6 additional projects. Goddamnit why did I give +2 to search/detect checks? *grumbles as he pulls out his checkbook again*
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Aug 11, 2020 22:48
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For one interior bedroom door, I used thin corrugated cardboard as shims as I could see light thru the strike side. Now I can see light thru the hinge side. For another, where you could actually see into the bedroom with the gap on the strike side, I used a chunk of a paint stir stick as the largest shim I've ever seen. Now you can only see a little light thru the strike side. The sellers of this house replaced all the doors and none of them are right. I really need to pop the trim off and shim these frames a little. That second door is good at top and bottom and bowed in the center. I won't do any of that, they all latch and are private now, and who knows how they'll change in the winter. I did also replace the hinges on my front door that someone used 2“ or longer gold screws that went thru the frame and into the side lite. Most of them had the tips broken off where visible, but the holes remain on the trim. 
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Aug 11, 2020 22:50
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I thought 1d6 was how many digits the bill was going to be?
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Aug 11, 2020 22:54
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Hawkeye posted:First house, moving today, first project was to replace the 6 inch deep double basin kitchen sink with a single basin deeper sink. I talked with a plumber yesterday about it. I had this exact problem last December. I'm remodeling my whole kitchen this year so I just kept the old sink and will replace it soon when I replace the cabinets. If you can't afford new cabinets, look for a mobile home sink or an RV sink. There is a company that makes cast acrylic mobile home sinks in a variety of colors if you don't like stainless. There will be no cast iron sink in your future unless you replace the cabinets.
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Aug 11, 2020 22:58
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H110Hawk posted:I thought 1d6 was how many digits the bill was going to be? When have you ever rolled a 1-digit home repair bill? 
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Aug 11, 2020 23:06
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Sundae posted:When have you ever rolled a 1-digit home repair bill? Sure! And halfway through water started spraying on me which made me bump the die and it went over to a 3. 
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Aug 11, 2020 23:10
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Home Ownership Thread: Dungeons with Drywall
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Aug 11, 2020 23:12
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Does anyone know any good mortgage brokers? https://www.housingwire.com/articles/uwm-announces-1-99-rate-for-30-year-fixed-mortgage/ 
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Aug 11, 2020 23:59
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Finally got a quote yesterday from a siding guy on fixing my patio flashing: $750. That's apparently their minimum charge for all "specialty" jobs. lmao Took the week off to "relax", so naturally I spent my day ripping off all my door trim and the course of siding directly above the slab and grinding down the high spots of concrete with an angle grinder. The door trim was embedded in the concrete down about 2", so now there's this huge 6" wide gap. Also the flashing they installed (only behind the siding and not behind any of the door trim) was a section of siding they just turned upside down and filled with a bunch of caulk on the top only. Water wouldn't go up but nothing stopping it from going down. Just the shittiest of jobs by whatever crew did this, I hate them very much. But I'm covering it with butyl flashing tape and galvanized flashing tomorrow. Kinda going at this by the seat of my pants, and lots of Youtube watching. 
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Aug 12, 2020 00:00
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Residency Evil posted:Does anyone know any good mortgage brokers? Have you given any thought on what your new obsession is going to be when mortgage rates finally go up?
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Aug 12, 2020 00:24
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Residency Evil posted:Does anyone know any good mortgage brokers? No. There aren't any. The industry attracts neither the best nor the brightest. You need to be your own project manager. Sorry.
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Aug 12, 2020 00:27
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How the gently caress do you front and then negotiate the sale of a $200,000+ loan by being your own project manager
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Aug 12, 2020 00:29
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skipdogg posted:Have you given any thought on what your new obsession is going to be when mortgage rates finally go up? Way ahead of you/already there: what sports car do I buy next? Motronic posted:No. There aren't any. The industry attracts neither the best nor the brightest. You need to be your own project manager. Unfortunately, it seems like those <2% rates are only through brokers. 
Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 00:44
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SpartanIvy posted:Home Ownership Thread: Dungeons with Drywall Perfect.
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Aug 12, 2020 00:55
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