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I've lost power with no indication of when it will be back. Is there anything fundamentally dangerous of leaving my phone/spare battery/Switch charging in the car unattended? If it matters, I seem to get power from the socket with the car completely off and I plan on going for a drive to run the alternator for a bit.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:09
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Uthor posted:I've lost power with no indication of when it will be back. Is it hot / in the sun? I'd worry about LiIon batteries getting warm. Otherwise it's it a newer car it might have a voltage shut off to keep the car battery from getting drained?
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Aug 11, 2020 18:14
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2016 BMW. I'm assuming the electronics are fine. I have it in the garage right now, but it tends to trap heat. It's not hot right now, but may be in the afternoon. I'll monitor that.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:19
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Out of curiosity, how much is the pod?
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Aug 11, 2020 18:25
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C-Bangin' it 
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Uthor posted:2016 BMW. I'm assuming the electronics are fine. It's not the twin turbo V8 is it? Those do have battery issues. Otherwise yeah, try to keep electronics from going flambe in direct sun, but I think you'll be alright.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:34
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Charles posted:It's not the twin turbo V8 is it? Those do have battery issues. Single cylinder four banger for maximum economies, baby. 
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Aug 11, 2020 18:49
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Colostomy Bag posted:Out of curiosity, how much is the pod? I'm assuming you're asking me. Quotes have been all over the place, the cheapest was $2300, the highest was $5200. The downside is that a lot of pods require a separate "city service" since I'm in Brooklyn. Essentially I'm paying $700-$1300 to have a truck park on the street for 4 hours while I load. I can skip that fee if I rent a uhaul and take everything to their terminal and load it myself there, but then I'm loading and unloading my poo poo more than once plus paying for the uhaul. It doesn't help that we're planning on staying with my fiancee's parents in CO for 3 weeks and then my parents for another 3 weeks in WA before finally making our way to Portland. Gahhh why did I have to make this so complicated. The easiest route is just sucking it up, paying for a pod and letting it sit in portland for a month before we get there.
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Aug 11, 2020 19:34
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I'd look at this way...And I know I'm spending your money but I'd go the pod route. Wear and tear on the transmission, stress of hauling a uhaul trailer thousands of miles and what might go wrong, keep the fiance happy, etc. Sometimes you can't put a price on things, but given your agenda I think the bucks are worth it given the time frame. The cost of the pod will give you less stress so you can enjoy your journey instead of wondering where are you going to park the trailer or if a tire is going to blow. My two cents. I'm old though, so take it with a grain of salt. In our stages of our lives we might have different priorities. I'm not as gung-ho as I used to be.
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Aug 11, 2020 20:13
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Moving sucks, why make it harder on yourself?
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Aug 11, 2020 20:36
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yoohoo posted:planning on staying ... 3 weeks and ... another 3 weeks ... before finally making our way to Portland don't you pay by the day for a trailer rental? That's been the deal whenever I've done it, but it's been a while
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Aug 11, 2020 20:43
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^yeah, they charge by the day, so my thinking in this case is that I'd unload and reload the trailer in both CO and WA. Storage at both places won't be an issue. I know it's a lot, which is why I said it further complicates things, but it'll also just be mattress/couch/dresser and boxes, so it wouldn't be terrible if I have to spend a coupe hours for a day, 3 times, loading and unloading. This is all solid advice, your points are all taken and I'm not ruling any of it out. I keep going back to the pods and the convenience and thinking about how much easier it would make the trip. I'm just looking at all of my options, and given how much cheaper this one is, I'm kinda running with it. Do I realistically want to drive across the country twice in a matter of twelve days, one of those with a trailer? No. But if I did it would give me a not insignificant savings.
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Aug 11, 2020 21:20
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I don't know what your financial situation is, and everyone has their own personal valuation of time/money but drat dude that sounds so far past my threshold of just pay for the pod its nuts. Like I just read the possible plan to load and unload a trailer multiple times and I just can't wrap my head around that. I've paid movers the last couple times I've moved and it was 100% money well spent. It's a weird stage in life though where you have just enough stuff it doesn't make sense to sell whatever doesn't fit in the car and replace it at your destination, but paying movers doesn't make sense either.
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Aug 11, 2020 21:48
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yoohoo posted:^yeah, they charge by the day, so my thinking in this case is that I'd unload and reload the trailer in both CO and WA. Storage at both places won't be an issue. I know it's a lot, which is why I said it further complicates things, but it'll also just be mattress/couch/dresser and boxes, so it wouldn't be terrible if I have to spend a coupe hours for a day, 3 times, loading and unloading. I don't know how you are still thinking about not doing the pod. Do the pod, pack some clothes and stuff in your Subbie and enjoy the cross country drive leisurely and without worries. Also how much trailer experience do you have I assume being in NYC not a lot?
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Aug 11, 2020 21:55
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TheBacon posted:I don't know how you are still thinking about not doing the pod. Do the pod, pack some clothes and stuff in your Subbie and enjoy the cross country drive leisurely and without worries. Also how much trailer experience do you have I assume being in NYC not a lot? I grew up out west, driving a trailer isn't totally foreign to me, but it's probably been 10 years. You aren't wrong, I'm just frugal and exploring options, but this has helped and being able to have a leisurely drive will be waaay nicer than a stressful drive. Pod it is. Thanks for talking it through, sorry for hijacking the thread.
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Aug 11, 2020 23:14
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My brother just took his car to a shop for a motor mount and a compressor issue, got it back today and it has a really prominent vaccum leak. Has anyone else had something like this happen before, is there a possibility it's intentional, and if the place doesn't track and fix it for free, what, if any recourse do we have? The car had absolutely no vaccum leaks before and there is no doubt in my mind something the shop did caused it.
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Aug 12, 2020 02:26
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Where is it leaking from? They might have left something disconnected by accident or cracked a part or a line while lifting the motor to replace the mount. If it's just a vacuum line it's usually pretty cheap and easy to fix such mistakes at least.
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Aug 12, 2020 04:33
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Ex's car (gently caress off with the  poo poo already, it's old - we're still friends).She's out of town, so I'm house/cat/car sitting. I'm on her insurance still, so I used her car to run some errands (30 mpg vs my 16-18 mpg...). Noticed something 6 months ago that was minor at the time even at highway speeds. Now it's kinda noticeable at city street speeds, loving terrifying at highway speeds. Hands off the wheel, the wheel stays dead center. Accelerate even slightly and it pulls right, but with the wheel still centered. Let off and it pulls left, again wheel doesn't move at all. If you gun it, it pulls hard right, and it's not torque steer (the steering wheel isn't budging). Let off of it at high RPMs and the steering wheel violently bounces left, right (only a few degrees), then self-centers, all in about half a second, no clunk sounds or anything. There's no clunking, no odd noises. The car, aside from this, sounds and drives like it's brand new, except I can tell it needs motor mounts. All 4 tires are matching Cooper tires with semi-regular rotations. The only work this car has ever had since day 1 (she's the original owner) is a clutch at 80k, ONE battery, valve cover gasket, belts (preventative), spark plugs, front brakes/rotors, and oil changes. The brakes/rotors, plugs, valve cover gasket, and last 2 oil changes were done myself. Nothing, aside from the clutch, was screaming KILL ME, it was mostly a "hey this is looking pretty rough, let's go ahead and change it now" type deal (it's getting coolant tomorrow as well, simply because I don't think even Toyota long life coolant is meant to go 16 years). I don't think tires would cause that, would they? It's been about a year since they were rotated, but it's a 2005 with 98k miles... it normally sees 4-5 miles a day most days, with 5 road trips in its entire life. I've known the car since new, off and on. 2005 Toyota Matrix, base model, 5 speed manual. I'm guessing the LCA bushings are pretty much done? Any other ideas? I haven't ever had it on a lift, just looked under enough to change the oil. Just trying to get an idea of what to look for. Definitely something up front. Steering is still as tight as when it left the factory, FWIW. Could an alignment cause this? Tires seem to wear even, but she drives so little that it's kinda hard to tell (these tires are 3 years old and look brand new). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 08:17
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I don’t have advice for the car, but what if you just start referring to her as your friend since you said that’s what you are?
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Aug 12, 2020 15:08
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....  Yeah, shoulda started doing that awhile ago I guess.
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Aug 12, 2020 18:24
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kastein posted:Where is it leaking from? They might have left something disconnected by accident or cracked a part or a line while lifting the motor to replace the mount. If it's just a vacuum line it's usually pretty cheap and easy to fix such mistakes at least. Not sure where it's coming from at this point, but apparently a cold start without turning the A/C on and the vacuum leak is gone, so I'd imagine it's something to do with the A/C.
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Aug 12, 2020 18:27
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Wait, what kind of car is this? If they left some of the intake ductwork disconnected, you can definitely hear a hissing when it's on the high cold idle on my car, and the ECU will be trying to idle it up even higher when the AC is on. It's possible it's something as simple as that, if you're just going by hearing a hissing noise and not how the car is actually running. I don't see any vacuum lines normally needing to come off to do motor mounts on most stuff. But intake ducting? Absolutely, that poo poo has to come off for a ton of stuff.
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Aug 12, 2020 21:19
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STR posted:Wait, what kind of car is this? It's actually, funny enough also a Matrix, 2004 XR with a 5 speed. They also did some sort of wok on the A/C, and from a cold start with never having turned the A/C on, it runs fine. It's not throwing a code but I think it's a vaccuum leak, not just because it's idling high but because it feels really down on power wt highway speeds, and you can hear it rise and fall with the RPMs.
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Aug 12, 2020 22:46
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Wish I could help there, but they went to drive by wire for the 2005 that I get to swear at occasionally. A smaller vacuum leak shouldn't affect highway power at all - it'll give you a high idle, sometimes a CEL related to the idle control valve or mass air flow sensor. A vacuum leak bad enough to affect highway power would give you a 3000+ idle speed (honestly, probably a lot higher). Looking at the vacuum line diagram for the 04 vs 05, it looks pretty much identical. Most of the underhood stuff does except there's no throttle cable on the 05. Being down on power really makes me think either the duct between the air filter housing and throttle body isn't fully seated at one end, or the clamps at either end aren't tightened. Gimme a minute and I'll take a couple of pictures, since I have the car right now. Should be pretty similar aside from the lack of throttle cable. It'll give me a idea of what to spitball on what needs to come out for mounts, too.
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Aug 12, 2020 23:20
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Okay, so first off, did they do the transmission mount as well as the 3 engine mounts? None of the motor mounts require touching anything close to vacuum lines. The transmission mount absolutely requires pulling the air filter housing and accordion tube from it to the throttle body. Pulling the battery would give them more access as well, but it doesn't look like you HAVE to do it (especially if you have a lift). There's also a PCV breather hose that runs from the valve cover to that accordion duct. It's mostly obscured by the engine cover (and I don't have any tools on me, so I can't remove it to take a picture - but it's a few 10mm nuts holding the cover on). What else did they do to the car? You said mounts and AC work. Does the invoice go into any greater detail? Do the brakes feel like they're a lot stiffer? That rear mount looks like kind of a pain, but that's typical for a FWD rear mount. The others look pretty easy. There's only 2 lines listed on the diagram under the hood, but there's an evap purge line that looks like it runs by the rear mount. That one SHOULDN'T trigger anything except codes related to evap. That accordion duct between the air filter housing and throttle body does like to rot out and crack over the years - that can definitely cause issues, and will eventually trip a CEL. Luckily, her example is one that was garaged for half of its life, so everything under the hood is almost like new (I mean, the fucker has only had one battery replacement since 2004 [2005 built in 2004], and that was 3 years ago). There's also a PCV hose going to the intake just behind the throttle body, at least on the 2005 (I assume it's the same on the 2004) - having that disconnected would definitely cause issues  Accordion duct. Couldn't really see much else to take pics of that would be worthwhile.  It's pretty much exactly what you have, except with an electronic throttle body and no cruise control (even if it had cruise, it'd be handled by the throttle body on a DBW car).TBH I'd probably take it back and tell them to sit on it overnight, then start it with the AC on with the engine cold. It sounds like they left something disconnected. The computer is going to default to cranking the idle up for the AC, as it's expecting a decent load once the compressor kicks on. e: speaking of, the last few times I've driven her car, it felt like a mount had let go (little bit of vibration at idle, much harsher at higher RPMs than I remembered). When I took that pic I noticed the engine is sitting about an inch lower on the driver's side.  So it looks like it needs all the mounts too. Not my problem this time!
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 23:40
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STR posted:... My guess is that the tie rod ends are shot.
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Aug 13, 2020 04:07
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I'll check that, thank you. Wouldn't worn tie rods result in the steering feeling a bit loose, though? It still feels tight, as in "sneeze and you've changed lanes" tight - there's no play in the steering, and it doesn't feel like it wants to wander. It only gets weird when you let off the gas to shift, or let off to slow down. I'm pretty sure the only alignment it's ever seen was when it got a new clutch awhile back (... and that's a maybe on the alignment). It doesn't feel floaty or anything, it drives a lot better than my Outback in general. I did notice a few hours ago that the engine is sitting... noticeably not-correct in the engine bay (the driver's side is about an inch lower), so there's something going on with the motor mounts. No idea if that would be related though; I tried rocking it in gear with the parking brake off, and nothing really moved (in 3rd). Definitely backs up my claim to her that it needs motor mounts, but I can't see that causing the weird left/right issues. e: tie rods are normally a mileage issue, right? It doesn't even have 100k on it yet. Unless they have rubber in them that can rot out? Last time I did brakes (about a year ago) I didn't find any play in any direction on the front wheels, aside from the side to side play that the steering wheel lock allowed.
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Aug 13, 2020 04:21
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still working on the altima that im trying to flip, whats the best way to go about degreasing and cleaning the oil leak residue that sits on top of the transmission? i was thinking of going over to a self car wash place, spray the areas with engine cleaner and then rinse off? i figure its a good idea to avoid spraying anything ignition related
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Aug 13, 2020 19:47
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Charles posted:It's not the twin turbo V8 is it? Those do have battery issues. An update on this: after charging my phone a couple of times, my extra battery once, and my Switch part way, the car said that it was going to turn off accessories to conserve battery power. So the car itself was preparing to save itself, at least. I went for a 45 minute drive to get the alternator running after that. Power came back on the next morning, so thankfully I never have to worry about it again.
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Aug 13, 2020 20:37
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STR posted:I'll check that, thank you. Wouldn't worn tie rods result in the steering feeling a bit loose, though? It still feels tight, as in "sneeze and you've changed lanes" tight - there's no play in the steering, and it doesn't feel like it wants to wander. ... That was playing on my mind as well, but there's not much up there that would mimic that behaviour... STR posted:I did notice a few hours ago that the engine is sitting... noticeably not-correct in the engine bay (the driver's side is about an inch lower), so there's something going on with the motor mounts. ... You know, if the motor's moving enough, you might get some wacky torque-steery-type nonsense. The only time I had any odd floaty nonsense, though, was a totally FUBAR Mustang II, a Johnstown Flood car with a badly rotted/broken frame. Boy, that rode weird. And a bad idler arm on a '74 Fury. Every time the right front tire hit a pothole, it did the funky chicken & the front end shook like a wet dog while the steering wheel never moved.
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Aug 14, 2020 04:00
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BraveUlysses posted:still working on the altima that im trying to flip, whats the best way to go about degreasing and cleaning the oil leak residue that sits on top of the transmission? i was thinking of going over to a self car wash place, spray the areas with engine cleaner and then rinse off? i figure its a good idea to avoid spraying anything ignition related You've got the right idea. I recommend purple stuff degreaser.
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Aug 14, 2020 05:56
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Same 2005 Matrix. Since I did the valve cover gasket last week, and plugs, I wanted to make sure the gasket was sealing decently (i.e. short and long term fuel trims looked right). Everything looked fine, went ahead and tried pulling codes for giggles to make sure there was nothing pending. I've been driving it while she's out of town just to put some miles on it since the gasket replacement - make sure it's not leaking, or about to pop a CEL, stuff like that, since her work commute is a whopping 2 miles on city streets, mine is 10 (half highway). (also 30 mpg is a shitload better than 18... 3 pedals also makes it a little more fun to drive than Brokeback  )Nothing related to powertrain, but B2799 popped up, which is apparently a transponder issue. I know the security light stops blinking as soon as I put either key in the ignition (no clue where the valet key is, I think her ex before me may have it). I can think of a couple of times where the engine started and died immediately when I've driven it (she's never mentioned anything like that happening to her), but then started fine on the second try. Any ideas? Both keys are the original keys that came with the car, though one is so worn that it only opens the driver's door and starts the car (doesn't work on the passenger door or hatch anymore). Apparently I can force it into programming mode by shorting two pins on the OBD2 connector and waiting 30 minutes, but I'd rather not risk loving it up (or leaving it with only one working key). PainterofCrap posted:That was playing on my mind as well, but there's not much up there that would mimic that behaviour... It's going up on a lift at some point next week anyway (gonna go ahead and do the gearbox oil), but I would have never thought to check the tie rods, given how tight the steering is. I was pretty sure it would be the lower control arm bushings. So thanks for that, it gives me a better list of stuff to check out. Hmm... I wonder if any shops still offer a free alignment check? Tie rods would probably show up on that, right? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 12:43
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So I just had new coilovers professionally installed on my 2012 Civic Si, and I've noticed a knock/thunk coming from the rear at low speeds. For background info, I got the new coilovers installed because the rear right damper blew on my old set (i figure that might be relevant in case the force from going over bumps transferred to other parts like the control arms, thus damaging them). It is hard to tell which side the noise is coming from; it kind of sounds like the center, although it may be the right. It's not particularly metallic, no clanging or grinding or vibrating––more of a deeper thunk. I can hear it going over some bumps, but not all. I went down a notably bumpy road, and it only made the noise once or twice. But when I back out of or head into my driveway, I can hear it and feel it slightly in my seat. It's hard to tell how new this sound is, because my old suspension system was itself pretty noisy. Edit: I tried removing everything from the trunk, including the spare tire and tools, but no dice. Head Bee Guy fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 18:54
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The driver outside handle just came off my fiancees 2009 Nissan Versa. Is that something I can potentially fix myself on the cheap or do we need to take it to a mechanic?
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Aug 15, 2020 02:06
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Len posted:The driver outside handle just came off my fiancees 2009 Nissan Versa. Is that something I can potentially fix myself on the cheap or do we need to take it to a mechanic? That's hard to determine without more information. If it fell off because a screw came loose, it might be pretty easy. If it fell off because a part broke, it may be more difficult. It also depends on what you need access to to repair it. If you can get at it from the outside, again it's easy. Pulling off the interior door card isn't that hard, per se, but it is kind of involved and can be intimidating to a novice. So it depends on what broke, where it broke, what needs to be done to fix it, and how ambitious you are about doing it yourself. ETA: This video may be informative: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5eNcom9Sw8 Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 03:04
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Head Bee Guy posted:So I just had new coilovers professionally installed on my 2012 Civic Si, and I've noticed a knock/thunk coming from the rear at low speeds. For background info, I got the new coilovers installed because the rear right damper blew on my old set (i figure that might be relevant in case the force from going over bumps transferred to other parts like the control arms, thus damaging them). It is hard to tell which side the noise is coming from; it kind of sounds like the center, although it may be the right. It's not particularly metallic, no clanging or grinding or vibrating––more of a deeper thunk. I can hear it going over some bumps, but not all. I went down a notably bumpy road, and it only made the noise once or twice. But when I back out of or head into my driveway, I can hear it and feel it slightly in my seat. Take it back to the shop - they didn't tighten something correctly.
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Aug 15, 2020 03:06
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Does anyone know of a place where i can send an AC compressor off to be rebuilt?
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Aug 15, 2020 03:37
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Len posted:The driver outside handle just came off my fiancees 2009 Nissan Versa. Is that something I can potentially fix myself on the cheap or do we need to take it to a mechanic? I literally just dealt with this on my 2007. Give me a bit to find the guide I used to create a metal hinge. It hasn't come off since then (it was coming off every single day prior to doing this repair) Edit: Here's the guide I used The tricky part is drilling the hole for the cotter pin hinge you're creating. Here are pics of what I did and it works perfectly. These are the only pics I have of the process so hopefully they help. Otherwise let me know if you have any questions but I thought it was fairly straight forward.   
two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 14:36
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wargames posted:Does anyone know of a place where i can send an AC compressor off to be rebuilt? The parts store. They'll even give you some else's that they've already rebuilt.
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Aug 15, 2020 16:27
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Len posted:The driver outside handle just came off my fiancees 2009 Nissan Versa. Is that something I can potentially fix myself on the cheap or do we need to take it to a mechanic? I just did this a few months ago on my brother's 09 Versa. I didn't drill any holes like the other goon did, just followed a video online (this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol27YiguHXQ). We did have to pull the door card off, which wasn't hard. The toughest part was reaching inside the door to detach the latch and reattach it. I learned the door handles would come off if the cover over the lock (or where a lock would be if not on the driver's door) was damaged, and judging by how rare those parts were on the other Versas in the junkyard, it's a common problem. I snagged the few I could find and popped one on my bro's car. Maybe 45 minutes of work if you're completely inexperienced and less than $5 for the repair.
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Aug 15, 2020 17:34
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I looked back three pages twice, and couldn't find an AC thread. Then I carefully read the thread titles on the first page again, and halfway down the thread titles on the second page and still couldn't find an AC thread. So I'm going to post my AC question here. Is it possible that over time the refrigerant can "leak" out of a system that doesn't actually have a real leak? Similar to how a tire will eventually lose air over time, without actually having a hole in it? Car is an 09 Corolla, that I bought new, and will be 12 years old in a month or so. Never had to do anything to the AC, but it *seems* like its not performing as good as I "think I remember it performing". Now, mind you it has been hot as gently caress a lot of times this summer, so that might be part of the reason, but it just seems like it takes longer than it should to start cooling down the air etc, and doesn't cool it as much without running for a while and so on. Just curious, as the system still works, it just doesn't seem as good as I remember it being. Fan still blows a lot of air and cabin filter isn't particularly old or clogged with poo poo.
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Aug 15, 2020 18:09
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