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Do big diggers not have a shear pin to prevent this sort of thing or is that not feasible?
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Aug 16, 2020 15:18
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What type of material are you in? If its clayey type material, you can pour some water in the hole. That will act as a lubricant. Wet clay is very slippery. It might help it might not. You should try a 36 inch pipe wrench, but don't put the upper jaw in the hole like you did. Wrap the jaws around the chuck. That way you have less chance of breaking and even more expensive pipe wrench. THe goon that suggested drilling a hole next to it might not be too far off. How long is the auger?
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Aug 16, 2020 15:56
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H110Hawk posted:
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Aug 16, 2020 16:23
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Second comedy option: Do you have an engine hoist? Or similar jack setup that could be rigged? Brown pants? Will and trust? You probably only need one or two clicks of pressure and banging off reverse a couple dozen times. (Does hazard fraught have one and a return policy?)
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Aug 16, 2020 16:32
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I'm trying to put up a cute little shelf for my wallet and keys by the rear entrance into the kitchen.  It comes with two drywall anchors for mounting. Drilling the first hole, about 1/2" into the wall, I hit some kind of hard thing that I probably should have known about. Feels like rock or metal. Not smooth. Not soft or malleable from poking at it with a small bit.  The pictured switch is the lowest electrical thing on this side of the kitchen (no outlets on the bottom or anything), and there's no plumbing over here either. The switch controls a ceiling light fixture and an AIR KING exhaust fan near the ceiling. Who knows what this is? This wall faces the back steps to the basement/outside and the hole is close to the corner, which feel like clues. And, I suppose, more importantly: is there any way I can still affix this shelf where I want it? 
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Aug 16, 2020 16:38
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Take the cover off that light switch and if the electrical box is recessed you might be able to get a better idea of the layers of material that make up your wall.
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Aug 16, 2020 16:51
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Could be a sheet of metal that serves as a cheapie stud? My house has that and it always freaks me out.
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Aug 16, 2020 17:01
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Nevets posted:Take the cover off that light switch and if the electrical box is recessed you might be able to get a better idea of the layers of material that make up your wall. Good call -   It kind of just looks how I'd expect it to! There's some wall and some wood and then a bunch of empty space, no sign of a metal sheet up here.
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Aug 16, 2020 17:09
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It's remotely possible you've hit a drywall screw. Do you have a rare earth magnet? If so, will it stay up when placed on the hole you drilled?
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Aug 16, 2020 17:12
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Or it's a wall plate to prevent you from hitting some electrical or plumbing that is drilled though the stud there.
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Aug 16, 2020 17:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's remotely possible you've hit a drywall screw. Do you have a rare earth magnet? If so, will it stay up when placed on the hole you drilled? Just barely, but yes. Above and near the switch there is no reaction, but around the hole and below it there is definitely metal. And not just at the hole, it's all below it too. Does seem like some kind of plate. https://imgur.com/a/F6BfCKX angryrobots posted:Or it's a wall plate to prevent you from hitting some electrical or plumbing that is drilled though the stud there. Could be! Seems unlikely but I'm no expert and a lot of people have worked on this house since it was built (in 1896). Here's the wall in more context:  The kitchen plumbing is on the opposite side of the kitchen. There's no outlets below the switch anywhere on this side of the house. The downstairs below this is a different unit (duplex) with discrete electrical and plumbing. admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 17:28
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armorer posted:Ah, that is a good cheap option. The water will end up pooling, to be sure, but she got around 40 gallons of water the last big storm, and that would mostly end up in the sump. The lip of this "tub" would be high enough that water would flow into the sump before it would overflow the lip. The thought here is that $20 and an hour of work might at least contain the problem to be "water along the back wall of the basement" rather than "shallow water all over the basement floor". Proper drainage is the right answer of course, but I'm not comfortable cutting up her floor to put that in, and a basement waterproofing company is going to want a decent chunk of change. 2x4 and a tube of silicone sealant to make it water proof and stuck down. Whipstickagostop posted:So I am moving into a new place next week, and I finally have a garage to set up my squat rack. How much of a drop and over how much of the base? Could you get a sheet of 1/2" MDF and glue/screw it up in layers so the top is flat but the bottom steps to follow the floor?
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Aug 16, 2020 17:38
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I take it I probably shouldn't try to drill through this metal-something to hang my mini shelf even though there's zero indication of plumbing/gas/vents/anything over here besides electrical that seems to only go up?
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Aug 16, 2020 17:47
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I wouldn't, yeah. It could be protecting an electrical run up to a second floor or something.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:00
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admiraldennis posted:I'm trying to put up a cute little shelf for my wallet and keys by the rear entrance into the kitchen. My guess is that there is an electrical run down the wall, below the switch, and that you;re hitting a steel safety plate over th edge of the stud, which is designed to stop you from hitting the line.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:25
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Thanks everyone. Makes sense. I suppose I will try to find another spot or look into some kind of adhesive mounting thing.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:36
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Dumb rookie question! This kinda plasticy cover is over my drain, I assume mainly to prevent there just being a huge rear end hole there for people to step in. Any reason I can't drill a small hole in here to run the little hose from a dehumidifier in there?
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Aug 16, 2020 20:45
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That looks like a sump hole not a drain, but I've never seen one with a vent in it either. You could technically (not legally to code depending on restrictions)run your dehumidifier to it and then have it pumped out wherever once it gets a bit full. Edit: maybe the left is the sump going to sewer and the right is drains from?? (Gutters?)
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Aug 16, 2020 21:01
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Replacing 3-prong dryer cord with 4-prong. Did I appear to have done it right? 
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Aug 16, 2020 21:29
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resting bort face posted:Replacing 3-prong dryer cord with 4-prong. Did I appear to have done it right? Isn't Green/Yellow stripe ground/earth in your part of the world? If so I think it goes with the Green wire on the side. Your before picture shows it hanging out over there. Also without a diagram I think it's impossible to know since your old wires weren't color coded. (Though maybe that middle ribbed one is neutral, thus making it otherwise correct?) H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 21:32
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DJExile posted:Dumb rookie question! Right pipe looks like a vent to a radon mitigation system (the U shaped tube is a dead giveaway)... however I'd expect that to be showing a little more pressure differential then that. That label on it probably says something important! You'd probably be okay poking a hole there to run a dehumidifier drain, but you may want to get that radon system looked at.
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Aug 16, 2020 21:46
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resting bort face posted:Replacing 3-prong dryer cord with 4-prong. Did I appear to have done it right? Green/yellow should be going to the same place as your ground, not to the neutral.
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Aug 16, 2020 21:53
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OSU_Matthew posted:Could use some advice... I seem to have dug myself into a literal hole. The second hole suggestion is clearly the best. If only you had a mechanical hole digger to do such a thing... You could try gently towing it with your car a bit to get the purchase shifted a bit and then reverse out as normal. This depends on how strong/secure the augur attachment is and you're need to be careful not to shear or break something.
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Aug 16, 2020 22:08
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e: Nevermind, I misread your initial post. This might be a bad suggestion, but if you hook it back up to the handle assembly, could you get a jack of some sort underneath the arm assembly and jack it back out of the ground? Maybe use some 2x4's for leverage. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 22:12
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What the heck is this? .  
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Aug 16, 2020 22:17
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Where is it located? Maybe some kind of in-wall root cellar thing?
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Aug 16, 2020 22:22
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tactlessbastard posted:What the heck is this? Built-in laundry hamper
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Aug 16, 2020 22:28
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SpartanIvy posted:Where is it located? Maybe some kind of in-wall root cellar thing? In a closet. devicenull posted:Built-in laundry hamper Makes sense, thanks!
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Aug 16, 2020 22:33
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corgski posted:Green/yellow should be going to the same place as your ground, not to the neutral. This is not necessarily correct for an electric dryer. Sometimes, that green/yellow is the neutral grounding wire, and the unseen other end of it connects back to the neutral block. It's used as seen in OP's first picture with a 3-wire cord to bond the metal case of the dryer to the neutral block. With a 4-wire cable, it needs to be parked back on the neutral block as you have a dedicated EGC. Need to verify with the equipment wiring diagram, but it could be correct as OP laid out. Or you could be correct... It depends on the manufacturer. Need a cable support either way though. Edit - since I know this is bound to be counterintuitive, here's an example of Kenmore electric dryer which is this way. You can see how they demonstrate moving the green/yellow to the center terminal for a 4-wire cable. Again, OP needs to verify with the equipment wiring diagram. 
angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 22:40
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devicenull posted:Right pipe looks like a vent to a radon mitigation system (the U shaped tube is a dead giveaway)... however I'd expect that to be showing a little more pressure differential then that. That label on it probably says something important! Yeah I've got a contractor coming to (among some other things) get that looked at. We just bought the place and have a laundry list of things to get touched up. I just mainly wanna make sure running a basic drain down in there isn't gonna cause a problem. Appreciate the help 
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Aug 16, 2020 22:43
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angryrobots posted:This is not necessarily correct for an electric dryer. Sometimes, that green/yellow is the neutral grounding wire, and the unseen other end of it connects back to the neutral block. It's used as seen in OP's first picture with a 3-wire cord to bond the metal case of the dryer to the neutral block. Oh yeah, I should have included this probably  Would you clarify what a cable support is? Is it the metal bracket that came with the 4-prong cable? edit: Oh and is it bad that my cable is 250V? It says 208 or 240 only resting bort face fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 23:30
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resting bort face posted:Oh yeah, I should have included this probably Your wiring is correct per your diagram. Yes the bracket it came with is what's probably referred to as cable strain relief in your documentation. It keeps there from being tension on the terminal connections, and clamps the cable by the outer jacket so those inner colored wires aren't exposed. It's probably a kinda duck bill looking thing. They're kinda fiddly compared to a regular box connector but it will work and it does need to be installed. Your cable is rated for more voltage than it will be exposed to, all good there.
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Aug 16, 2020 23:50
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Thanks, everyone. This has been very helpful.
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Aug 17, 2020 00:12
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Appreciate the advise everyone! Big hole update: Farm jack didn’t work as well as I’d hoped. Snapped a hazard fraught pipe wrench trying to prey it free. However my dad came over this morning, and it took about an hour of digging about 3/5 of the auger bit out by hand, an old 24” Ridgid pipe wrench with 6’ of cheater bar, and prying upwards with a 4x4 post and some blocks while working the throttle to get it free. It was my dumbassery that got the thing stuck to begin with, but stopping and starting to clear out the loose dirt and rocks by hand got the other 20 other holes drilled. I was trying to clear the hole last night by lifting the head while drilling to let the dirt and rocks spin out, and I didn’t realize how easily the drat thing could burrow in and get stuck. Working that kind of equipment is just a skillset I don’t have, and next time I need to drill holes, I’m getting something with hydraulic upforce/downforce. Or more likely finding someone who knows that they’re doing. This poo poo is too much like work. The reverse plane had gotten compacted in with clay, and it was a bigass rock that’d blocked it in. Problem is that side used to be an old alley so there’s all sorts of old trash that’d been used as backfill probably about a hundred years ago. Found bits of old ceramic, fuses, mortar, bits of the original slate roof, etc. Here’s the hole we had to dig to get the thing free: 
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Aug 17, 2020 02:23
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The grouting in my shower is starting to crack away. Do I need to scrape away the old grouting and start anew? Or can I just patch it with something? If I can patch it, what do I need to use? https://imgur.com/a/jKZEaWc
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Aug 17, 2020 03:27
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A while ago, a leg on a cheapo couch I got failed, and I've been thinking to replace my quick fix (a pile of books) with a real fix. Here's a shot of the bottom of the couch with all the legs off, and where I circled where they'd screw in:  The legs are attached with a long screw and a dowel pin. Now the problem is that wooden part broke off where the back left leg (upper left in the photo) screws in. Here's a shot of the piece after I removed it:  As far as I can tell, this piece broke off the top part, but it was attached on the left and right via staples. Here's a couple more shots with the leg:   Now my question is: what are my options, given that I have very little experience in woodworking? I can probably glue the piece back on with wood glue, but I don't have a clamp handy. I could use epoxy perhaps, but I'm not sure if it's sufficient given that this leg is weight-bearing. Perhaps I can drive long nails at an angle to attach to the top/left/right? Any suggestions would be appreciated!
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Aug 17, 2020 04:16
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I have a portable AC that currently has quite a bit of hose venting because of bedroom logistics. however, there is a forced air furnace vent. can I hook the portable AC to the forced air vent to shove the hot air into that and shorten the length and opportunity to heat the air around the hose? i realize that will vent some warm air out the other registers and I am ok with that. just trying to more efficiently cool my bedroom on the few occasions I need it.
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Aug 17, 2020 04:45
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resting bort face posted:Oh yeah, I should have included this probably Yeah it’s correct per your diagram. I’m used to equipment having a bonding jumper that gets discarded entirely for a proper grounded installation but your manufacturer always knows best. And using a 250v rated appliance cable on a 240v appliance is completely fine. Most of the flexible cable I install is 600v rated and it’s just serving 208v three phase, it just means the insulation is capable of handling that much voltage.
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Aug 17, 2020 08:58
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Got squeaky floors in the upstairs bedroom. Going to toss the old laminate and get some of that all-in-one vinyl board with the tongue and groove system and underlayment attached. What do I use to fix the subfloor to the joists? Regular wood screws??
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Aug 17, 2020 10:34
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OSU_Matthew posted:Appreciate the advise everyone! Big hole update: When it starts digging itself in without any feed, we call that "corkscrewing". I've drilled in a poo poo load of old places including inside old buildings, and yeah, back in the day people used to throw whatever the gently caress poo poo they felt like to fill in a hole.
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Aug 17, 2020 11:21
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