|
that pic isn't the exact one i have either, i assume they're all the same mostly.  ive used mine for hot pot, bacon, hashbrowns, eggs, bratwurst, coffee, fajitas, all sorts of stuff and never had any issues. the fuel can does get cold but ive never noticed ice forming or the fuel flow cutting out.
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2020 21:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 16:06 |
|
|
JacquelineDempsey posted:I'm looking at doing a whole lot of car-camping soon... more out necessity than fun, since I'm homeless and jobless. +1 on the Coleman two burner propane stove. Its the standard. Its small, cheap ($45), light, packs down nice and flat, and uses propane which can be found anywhere from gas stations to grocery stores. You can even find convertors to run bigger propane tanks vs using the small green ones. Butane cans are more likely found at outdoor shops and specialty places. White gas can be found at some rural gas stations and grocery stores but also more likely to be found at outdoor stores. Having one burner is fine most times but sometimes you might need to do two things at once like boil noodles and warm up a sauce, or cook bacon and eggs separately. You can always just not use the other burner. Plus it has a big wind screen.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2020 21:52
|
|
. But autumn in southern Virginia is pretty nice, so I'm trying to look at the bright side.
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Coleman 2-burner propane stove. They're cheap and you can get the fuel anywhere. If you hit a few thrift stores, you'll probably find one, although they're like $60 at Target if you can spare the dough for a new one. PokeJoe posted:a coleman stove is great for camping and will last forever. my dad has one that's probably 40 years old and still works well. might be a bit large if you're living in your car full time and need the space though. i have one of those chinese grocery single butane burners too and i like mine a lot actually, it's not the beefiest burner but they're very size friendly. i go to the asian store regularly so i just buy the fuel there with my groceries and it's only like 6 bucks for a 4 pack of fuel cans and they last a few meals. I'm currently in the situation where I don't have a functioning stove in my kitchen (hell, I don't have a kitchen at all, until the drat inspectors sign off on the new electrical) and cooking on those is *miserable*. Your only options are "Fire" and "More Fire", and I used up two cans cooking a pot of gumbo last Friday. The only reason why I still use it is because it will support the full weight of my pans and dutch oven, while my little Snow Peak canister stove will not, and the canisters for THAT are expensive, compared to the cartridge stove. Go with the Coleman, the propane will serve you much better in the long run. Bonus points if you can find one vintage, since the newer ones invariably have fallen victim to "we gotta make this poo poo cheaper". SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Aug 14, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2020 23:32
|
|
|
JacquelineDempsey posted:I'm looking at doing a whole lot of car-camping soon... more out necessity than fun, since I'm homeless and jobless. FWIW, there are single-burner stoves that are designed to take a butane canister but have a threaded connection port and a hose that let you connect them to a 1lb propane cylinder, or if you get an adapter, a larger propane tank. They're typically more expensive than the butane-only burners, but are generally price comparable to the two-burner Coleman propane stoves. I've got two. I've been very impressed with the one from GasOne and was surprisingly disappointed with the fit and finish on the one from Camp Chef (because every other product of theirs that I've seen or own has been well built). Propane and butane have nearly identical BTUs/mass, so a dual fuel system offers a nice flexibility in switching between whatever fuel is easier to find or cheaper. That being said, a dual-fuel two-burner system is probably going to be about twice the cost of one that's propane only. I've yet to find a better place to buy small canisters of propane than Walmart, but you may have better options where you are. The best places to get butane are usually restaurant supply shops, Asian grocery stores, or bulk shops (Sam's Club, Costco, etc.), and that's typically in packs of 4 or more. Unless you want to cook over wood, which is an entirely different ordeal, your most economical fuel choice is almost certainly going to be propane in a refillable tank (typically 20 lbs, but sometimes 5s are availble, and you can find ones that are over 20 pretty easily). If you're sleeping in your van, butane is the safest to store with you, followed by 1lb propane bottles. If you're going to go with a larger propane tank, keep it outside of the vehicle while you're sleeping, if possible, because of the risk of leaks. Good luck, and hopefully you'll find work soon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2020 01:50
|
|
|
Did a first test run of the new tent today. The fly is a bit finicky but went up in about 10 mins without much trouble. It doesn't come with enough stakes though and the ones it does come with are a bit crap, so I went and picked up a set of these because MEC and Atmosphere can get hosed if they think it's reasonable to charge $2/each for a chunk of Y channel aluminum stock. I think once I have enough stakes to do the front and back vents, it'll pull the fly tight enough that there won't be any ripples like you see in the picture. One of the big complaints people have with this tent is that it doesn't pack away very small. But after looking at it I realized that it's because the poles are so long, so taking the poles out of the stuff sack, and folding the fly/tent/footprint over once more I managed to shave a full 5" off of the packed size. The poles are still kinda big but I can always just strap those to the outside of my pack or something without much hassle. Other than that, it's pretty comfortable and roomy on the inside so I'm quite happy with it. 
MustardFacial fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Aug 15, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2020 05:25
|
|
|
Any recommendations for a cooler for car camping? Yeti prices are  , even with a hefty discount through my work. I don't need anything as insanely insulated as a Yeti, just something that'll keep perishables cold for 2-3 days max.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 01:37
|
|
|
Casu Marzu posted:Any recommendations for a cooler for car camping? Yeti prices are the WalMart knockoff yetis are surpringly good and I think the one that'll hold like 4 cases of beer is only $100
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 01:44
|
|
|
Coleman makes some perfectly serviceable coolers. Just pack stuff that's already frozen/cold and avoid opening the thing a thousand times a day and you'll get a three day trip easy.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 01:58
|
|
|
The only thing I ever look for in a cooler is something at the bottom to drain it, because tipping it is mildly more 
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 02:03
|
|
|
The Coleman Marine ones for ~$50 (the white ones with metal hinges) are pretty good for the money. Costco has their Yeti knockoff on clearance right now for $100-150 if you can find. them in your local store.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 02:04
|
|
|
There are 12 volt freezers/fridges now that you can hook up to your car's cigarette lighter that will keep themselves cold indefinitely as long as they have a power source. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WYS3TR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hzioFbZB7ZYTH
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 02:05
|
|
|
Nitrousoxide posted:There are 12 volt freezers/fridges now that you can hook up to your car's cigarette lighter that will keep themselves cold indefinitely as long as they have a power source. Thermoelectic is definitely worth looking at, but are dependent on the air around them so keep that in mind.. they can only cool about 40F below ambient. But they can also warm to about 40F above ambient, so that's a cool trick. I have a little Dometic 33 liter I use on road trips and it's great, will keep medications and some fruits/drinks chilled. Then when not on road trips I bring it to work to store my lunches in my office.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 02:18
|
|
|
xzzy posted:Thermoelectic is definitely worth looking at, but are dependent on the air around them so keep that in mind.. they can only cool about 40F below ambient. But they can also warm to about 40F above ambient, so that's a cool trick. You want a traditional compressor based heat pump for your 12v fridge freezer. It'll be far more efficient
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 02:28
|
|
|
That actually is a conventional refrigeration setup, albeit a crappy one. e: oh mixed up my posters, I assume you already know that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QKj61w0Bo8
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 02:30
|
|
|
Yeah, I didn't do a deep dive or anything into finding the best 12-volt fridge. So the one I posted there may be hot garbage I don't know. definitely do your research before you go and buy something. Most of the ones I saw run the $300 range so the fact that this one was like $150 is probably a good indication it's a lower quality one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 02:52
|
|
|
Sockser posted:the WalMart knockoff yetis are surpringly good and I think the one that'll hold like 4 cases of beer is only $100 I have that, it's a LIFETIME. Their largest. Legit keeps ice for 5 days, drain is durable, seal works, latches work. I've had it for almost 2 years now. It's heavy but it's no heavier than any of the injection molded coolers, and I use it a lot of days a year. Highly recommend it imo thatguy fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Aug 16, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 04:30
|
|
|
Nitrousoxide posted:You want a traditional compressor based heat pump for your 12v fridge freezer. It'll be far more efficient There's a lot of variables, and I don't claim to be a professional refrigeration expert, but I think at small sizes (like under 20L) thermoelectic comes ahead on power draw, especially once the initial cooldown is done. They're also quieter and have less moving parts that will fail. On the other hand, the compressor types get a lot colder, scale better to large volumes, and cost less.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 04:36
|
|
|
I’ve had a couple of cheaper plug in coolers and they never seemed to be good at anything but keeping casseroles or some poo poo warm. I actually decided a good cooler was the last piece of car camping equipment I needed and grabbed a Canyon Outfitter 55 a couple of weeks ago. Between it and my 20l soft sided Yeti knockoff it was great for 2 people for 3 days with lots of beer. Though, I would have grabbed the Outfitter 70 if they had any in stock. The Clymb had some decent looking rotomolded coolers for around $200 when I was looking. I would have gone that route if I could wait for shipping.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 04:50
|
|
|
Casu Marzu posted:Any recommendations for a cooler for car camping? Yeti prices are Go to Costco. Their yeti knockoffs are fantastic. They had Cascade mountain tech and coho brands. Both are great for the price. I bought my 55qt coho for $120 and it's incredible. http://www.cohooutdoors.com/55QTCooler.html "Bear proof", rope handles, drain etc. The 45qt Cascade mountain tech seemed just a little too small and was more expensive. They also had a giant 80qt for $200 but that's way bigger than I need. If you don't need/want a roto molded cooler, any equivalent sized igloo or Coleman should work. In my experience, you always need more space than you think. One thing I'll suggest is an internal rack that keeps your food above the water so it doesn't get soggy. And big ice.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 04:56
|
|
|
We went to a quiet part of the neighbourhood today to practice setting up our tent. I promptly ended up busting one of the poles  Gotta order a spare, but otherwise this is looking good so far! e: okay so yeah using a rubber mallet and a bunch of wiggling I was able to get the poles unstuck again. so maybe this operation was a succes Lord Stimperor fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Aug 16, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 13:57
|
|
|
Did a 82km 51mile hike, "Karhunkierros" in northern Finland. It was the best trip so far ever  My trail runners were nagging my right ankle's tendons. I tried less or more insoles, foam on top of the shoe's tongue, different laces etc. Well I maybe found a "not the worst" solution which allowed me to complete the trip. Earlier I did not have those problems in shorter 20-40km hikes, they seem to manifest only during longer ones. Also I will stop using my silnylon tent for now. It is good in dry conditions like winter, desert etc. but not Finland it seems. We placed tents next to each other and only my silnylon tent was completely soaked both sides, even with "max ventilation" all doors and whatnot open. Other tents from regular materials were basically bone dry.. maybe some very light film of precipitation only. I weighed my tent after the trip and it was over 2,4kg, water weight alone was over 500 grams. There was no way to get the tent dry short of making a fire inside the tent and drying it that way.. I already considered hiding it in a forest near a road and picking it up later with my car instead of carrying it all the way through. If the 20D silpoly material does not work either, next stop is DCF. I want to sleep in a dry tent please. In theory polyester is hydrophobic (sheds water), while nylon is hydrophilic (sucks in water around it). Also 20D is thinner so there is less material to get wet etc... I could have filled half a water bottle alone by drying my goddamn tent 
Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Aug 16, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 19:06
|
|
|
There are different kinds of silnylon fabric including different degrees of "siliconization" for lack of a better term, and for some the waterproofness will be much less, especially at lower thread counts. In theory, a sufficiently silicone encapsulated fiber will be totally waterproof, irrespective of whether the base material itself is hydrophobic, since the silicone coating is very hydrophobic. Hydrostatic head ratings are generally available for the fabrics used in tents. Some silnylon fabrics have a hydrostatic head rating of only ~1000-1500mm, while others are in the range of 3000-5000 mm. DCF commonly used in tents ranges from ~8000-15,000mm. In general, heavy duty silnylon has been used in waterproof tents for a long time, with good success. If waterproofness is important to you, I recommend trying to obtain more information about the fabric being used, rather than just the type. A lot of these rating are manufacturer reported, so there may be inconsistencies, but generally speaking a heavier weight silnylon with hydrostatic head rating of 3000 mm or higher should be very waterproof. Silnylon with a 12000 mm raiting is fairly common on lightweight shelters, and is not nearly as waterproof. That being said, DCF is always going to absorb less water and be the "most" waterproof, especially on extended trips with lots of rain or condensation, and it is also the lightest (and by far most expensive...). It is nice to always be able to shake off water from a DCF shelter and never have it absorb any water weight. But an appropriate silnylon material should absolutely not fail badly after a few days in rain.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 20:20
|
|
|
one thing about DCF tents is that they are even less breatheable than other materials. if it's rainy and humid outside condensation on the inside can be a concern.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 20:35
|
|
|
Anyone who's made their own footprints care to weigh in on polycro vs tyvek? Main purpose is to prevent wear on the tent. I'd prefer a solution that leads to less waste over it's lifespan so I'm leaning toward the more durable tyvek solution. I also don't want to buy a big roll of something that I'm never going to use but it's got to be 90 x 70/62 inch. Is adding grommets worthwhile if I don't plan on setting up fast fly?
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 22:45
|
|
|
The Wiggly Wizard posted:Anyone who's made their own footprints care to weigh in on polycro vs tyvek? Main purpose is to prevent wear on the tent. I'd prefer a solution that leads to less waste over it's lifespan so I'm leaning toward the more durable tyvek solution. I also don't want to buy a big roll of something that I'm never going to use but it's got to be 90 x 70/62 inch. I too am very interested in this as I'm currently using a bulky blue tarp and would like something smaller. Two questions to add-on: 1) How durable is polycro on rocks? 2) If I go the Tyvek route, where do I get a small piece without having to buy a whole roll?
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2020 23:15
|
|
|
I use polycro a lot, but in conjunction with a floorless shelter and usually just to provide some basic barrier to ground moisture or dirt. It's just there to help keep my pad and sleeping bag clean and not much else. It is, emphatically, not a durable material but it's cheap and holds up well enough, even on rocks. My current sheet has been through about 14 nights and it's starting to get raggedy. I just bought a pack of it from the hardware store and when one sheet gets torn up I replace it. Irrespective of durability, I very much doubt a thin sheet of polycro is going to meaningfully affect wear on the floor of your tent. Tyvek is much thicker and more durable. I'm honestly not sure which would result in less waste, though, since they are both basically polyethylene, but tyvek uses a lot more of it. Does it use 4x more and last > 4x as long? I dunno, probably. You can order Tyvek in sizes reasonably convenient for your application, and often marketed specifically as groundsheets. Idk if this is cheaper than just buying whatever the hardware store has on sale and cutting it down, though. Honestly though, if your tent already has a floor, the simplest and easiest option is just saying gently caress it and patching any holes that appear if and when they do. Most tent floors experience minimal wear, are already made of reasonably sturdy materials, are easy to repair, and it doesn't matter if they get holes anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 01:11
|
|
|
Morbus posted:Does it use 4x more and last > 4x as long? I dunno, probably. Yeah this is what I'm trying to figure out. I'll probably go with whatever I can find closest to my size which looks like polycro from gossamer gear Morbus posted:Honestly though, if your tent already has a floor, the simplest and easiest option is just saying gently caress it and patching any holes that appear if and when they do. Most tent floors experience minimal wear, are already made of reasonably sturdy materials, are easy to repair, and it doesn't matter if they get holes anyway. I'm stuck in my ways and would like to keep my nice things nice even if it's just phony peace of mind.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 01:47
|
|
|
Has anyone used decathlon puffy jackets? I see they have both a synthetic and a down version with an 800 fill for the down and the synthetic rated down to upper 20s Fahrenheit. Both of them are $80 or less which is a astounding price for something with that fill level or temperature rating. Are they good purchases and is the synthetic and okay buy? It is a good $30 cheaper than the down version.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 02:51
|
|
|
I have no experience with that brand but in my opinion, if an 800 down option is only $30 more, buy the down. I always lean towards down for lightweight insulation layers because of their warmth, weight and packability. Go synthetic if you get wet a lot. I just bought an Eddie Bauer down jacket because it was 60% off the already marked clearance price making it $24. On this last trip it was warm enough that I didn't bring a jacket but at night I was wearing all my clothes. A puffy that weighs virtually nothing and takes up no space is great to have.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 03:11
|
|
|
Morbus posted:There are different kinds of silnylon fabric including different degrees of "siliconization" for lack of a better term, and for some the waterproofness will be much less, especially at lower thread counts. In theory, a sufficiently silicone encapsulated fiber will be totally waterproof, irrespective of whether the base material itself is hydrophobic, since the silicone coating is very hydrophobic. The tent was Tarptent Scarp 2. It is waterproof (water has never leaked through), 30D silnylon with advertised 3000mm hydrostatic head. I just don't understand how it can get so wet even when it's not raining. It's like a dish rag in humid conditions and I hate it. I want a tent which I can dry and which hopefully stays dry, doesn't absorb so much water... most of the water was on the fly and fly weight is around 950g. So the fly's weight incrased by like 30-50% just thanks to water. And such a wet tent drew in all kinds of garbage from everywhere. I was most pissed off because other tents I saw (no idea what material they were made of, but not DCF at least) were so much drier. I ended up sleeping in "laavu"'s (lean-to shelters) instead because the wood was dry We'll see how the Trekkertent Stealth in 20D silpoly of dubious quality works. I hope they use decent enough materials, at least they have been around for a long time.Finland is full of bogs, rivers, lakes, streams, generally quite flat country so it's usually quite humid even when it's not raining. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Aug 17, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 07:45
|
|
|
Ihmemies posted:The tent was Tarptent Scarp 2. It is waterproof (water has never leaked through), 30D silnylon with advertised 3000mm hydrostatic head. I just don't understand how it can get so wet even when it's not raining. It's like a dish rag in humid conditions and I hate it. I want a tent which I can dry and which hopefully stays dry, doesn't absorb so much water... most of the water was on the fly and fly weight is around 950g. So the fly's weight incrased by like 30-50% just thanks to water. And such a wet tent drew in all kinds of garbage from everywhere. I think TarpTents are all single wall tents, they will definitely suck in high humidity environments. You're probably experiencing condensation buildup in the tent as it slowly soaks up and absorbs some water. I live in a similar environment in Minnesota, lots of lakes, bogs, etc. I would never go with a single wall tent, youre just asking for trouble in my experience. Get yourself a hammock setup or a nice double wall tent. Also if I recall correctly Silnylon will absorb more water and stretch more than something like Silpoly. Try looking for a tent made out of Silpoly if you can. I dont think they are as common but they are still out there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 13:34
|
|
|
Anyone have suggestions for a jacket that isn't too bulky to wear in the winter time for North-East US? I've just been wearing my Burton coat for years, which is extremely warm and great for layering, but it's so big and bulky. Don't necessarily need something that heavy duty when I'm just driving to work or for casual hiking (2-4 hours tops) around in the winter. No one ever seems to put the temperatures for their region/use in product reviews Average Lows here in Buffalo in February are 19º according to a quick Google search (which is 5-10º higher than I would have guessed) but with windchill and such it can easily get below 0.
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Aug 17, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 13:55
|
|
|
The Wiggly Wizard posted:Anyone who's made their own footprints care to weigh in on polycro vs tyvek? Main purpose is to prevent wear on the tent. I'd prefer a solution that leads to less waste over it's lifespan so I'm leaning toward the more durable tyvek solution. I also don't want to buy a big roll of something that I'm never going to use but it's got to be 90 x 70/62 inch. You can buy Tyvek by the foot on ebay.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 14:04
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Anyone have suggestions for a jacket that isn't too bulky to wear in the winter time for North-East US? I've just been wearing my Burton coat for years, which is extremely warm and great for layering, but it's so big and bulky. Don't necessarily need something that heavy duty when I'm just driving to work or for casual hiking (2-4 hours tops) around in the winter. They're expensive, but I am a huge fan of the Arc'teryx Atom lt as a mid layer for Philadelphia/NY winters. My typical drive to work attire is a long sleeve shirt, the atom, and either a fall or lightweight winter jacket. It's not the warmest thing by itself, but it weighs extremely little and is very thin, and as a result is somehow way warmer than it has any right to be. It's also good for hiking or other outdoor activities, when you're generating some heat.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 14:05
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Anyone have suggestions for a jacket that isn't too bulky to wear in the winter time for North-East US? I've just been wearing my Burton coat for years, which is extremely warm and great for layering, but it's so big and bulky. Don't necessarily need something that heavy duty when I'm just driving to work or for casual hiking (2-4 hours tops) around in the winter. Hello buffalo friend. I don’t live there any more but grew up there. For driving to work and hiking, as long as you keep moving, you would probably be ok in something like a nano puff with a good base layer, with maybe a windbreaker to throw on as an outer layer. I like the uniqlo ul down puff as a cheap alternative. Make sure you have a warm hat, gloves, and socks, as these will affect your comfort significantly. You might also appreciate having a 3/4 length wool car coat or similar, these can also be very warm and you’ll appreciate the extra length if you’re doing something less active.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 14:20
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Anyone have suggestions for a jacket that isn't too bulky to wear in the winter time for North-East US? I've just been wearing my Burton coat for years, which is extremely warm and great for layering, but it's so big and bulky. Don't necessarily need something that heavy duty when I'm just driving to work or for casual hiking (2-4 hours tops) around in the winter. I've had decent experience with LL Bean ultralight 850 down/synthetic down jackets as mid layer. With a decent base layer and a hard shell for high wind, I've stayed warm through some pretty cold WI hikes. Those jackets aren't the cheapest, but I've found em off season on sale/ebay for a decent price.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 14:25
|
|
|
Thanks guys
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 14:30
|
|
|
I would also highly recommend getting a wool base layer as well as wool socks. Cotton just loves to absorb water so if you sweat at all while hiking you just get a layer of water that you're trying to heat up in addition to your body. Wool doesn't retain water nearly as well and it also doesn't stink up like cotton does. Make sure to get Marino wool as it is not itchy and about as soft as cotton. It's more expensive though so it may not be the sort of thing you wear everyday when driving to work, but I would definitely recommend it for hiking as a one time a week thing. A windbreaker as your outer layer, or a rain jacket, will also go a long way to keeping you nice and warm. Especially if you get a down puffy jacket you want to be super sure that that doesn't get wet in a winter rain storm or it will become completely useless.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 14:47
|
|
|
I just bought some marino wool socks and I am never going back to hiking in cotton. They're amazing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 15:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 16:06 |
|
|
My winter gear the past two years has been a north face rain coat and a rab alpha flash midlayer (the one made of Polartec Alpha, which loving owns by the way). The rain coat doesn't pack down for poo poo so I'll fix it someday but for now it works. Mostly because we don't get a true winter anymore, everything comes down as slush so I want the water resistance. I have a big stupid down coat if it ever gets below 0F. I tend to run really hot though, so less is better and it absolutely must have a full zipper so I can let in cool air in as needed.. pullovers ruin my day.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2020 15:12
|
|