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I've got a '50s house with stucco and a few minor issues. One is this damage in the front, where the lathe is exposed. Do I need to paper and wire over this, before I can start with scratch coating? Or can I seal the wood some other way? It's a pretty small spot, so getting paper and wire seems overkill. Hand for scale. 
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Aug 20, 2020 01:47
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| # ? May 27, 2024 22:11 |
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Toebone posted:They make large command strips that can hold up to 16 lbs, but depending on how your shelf is shaped it might just leverage itself off. it'll just be a regular shelf, about 24" wide and 16" deep. I would just need something to fully attach the command strip to. I'm guessing drilling two holes on each side and putting in those little metal shelf pegs is more stable, but I'd prefer to do the no drilling method first. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Aug 20, 2020 |
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Aug 20, 2020 01:50
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actionjackson posted:it'll just be a regular shelf, about 24" wide and 16" deep. I would just need something to fully attach the command strip to. I'm guessing drilling two holes on each side and putting in those little metal shelf pegs is more stable, but I'd prefer to do the no drilling method first. Nothing exists which can hold the weight. You have to drill.
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Aug 20, 2020 03:58
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H110Hawk posted:Nothing exists which can hold the weight. You have to drill. I assume something like this is fine https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-mm-Nickel-Shelf-Support-Spoon-12-Pack-801984/204273810 I can get one of those pegboards with the holes in it to make sure all the holes are aligned properly.
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Aug 20, 2020 04:33
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I don't have a good idea of what kind of project you're working on, but those pegs are meant for adjustable bookshelves. The (solid wood or plywood) boards that comprise the side walls of the bookshelf have holes drilled in them at regular intervals that the pegs fit into with basically zero clearance, giving support on all sides. Pegboard is not going to be able to hold those pegs. (edit: or did you mean that you'd use the pegboard as a guide for drilling the holes for the pegs in some other material? That'd probably work) If you want a shelf with no visible support, you'll need to do a floating shelf of some kind. Generally that means a backing board that's screwed into the studs and which has rods glued into it, and then the shelf which has holes matching the rods. With good alignment, the shelf and the backing board can be made to look like a single unit.
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Aug 20, 2020 04:53
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actionjackson posted:it'll just be a regular shelf, about 24" wide and 16" deep. I would just need something to fully attach the command strip to. I'm guessing drilling two holes on each side and putting in those little metal shelf pegs is more stable, but I'd prefer to do the no drilling method first. A viable shelf you can build with tape? Get a large box of wooden matches. Throw out the matches. And use thumbtacks to stick it to the wall. Don't use the tape. All the tape is going to do is ruin you paint.
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Aug 20, 2020 05:50
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The peg board is just for getting the holes perfectly aligned and level.
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Aug 20, 2020 14:34
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lets try this again. One cannot attach a shelf without placing holes in the surface you'd like it to be on, you need a way to support both the front and back of the shelf. If you were to use any kind of velcro or glue or sticky tape kind of stuff you'll end up pulling it off the wall because you can't just support it at the fulcrum (point where it meets the wall). I guess if you really wanted you could try some good construction adhesive and see if that would hold (the issue would be keeping it up until it held). This will however cause more damage to remove than patching over a few drywall anchors / screws into a stud. You maybe could comically get this to work if you did something like this but don't it's stupid. You could try and use some of the big 3m hooks and make something like a floating shelf where there's no bracket under it. You'll need come wire cable or twine or cat hair woven into rope or whatever you have around shoudl work. Then probably a hook every 6-8" on your wall all even all the same height. then just attach a rope/twine/cathair/random audio cable to your hooks (make sure all the same length so they all carry the same weight and have a right triangle of rope to hold the shelf up (or attach the rope / cable / string to the front and back of each shelf to get the triangle) This is again more work than patching the wall.  This is a bad idea.. dont do it
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Aug 20, 2020 15:11
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Is there some industry trick to opening the bag of joint compound that doesn't send out a huge plume of dust every time you pour some out to mix?
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Aug 20, 2020 15:47
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tater_salad posted:lets try this again. yeah I gotcha, I'm just going to drill some holes for reference it's the shelf in the middle picture of this unit. I just want to raise it maybe an inch. those vertical dividers can be removed.
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Aug 20, 2020 17:02
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Wait, you have stuff on the sides of the shelf? Goddamn, just put some of those shelf pegs in the dividers and rest the shelf on those. We had a completely different idea of what you were trying to do.
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Aug 20, 2020 17:07
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Bioshuffle posted:Is there some industry trick to opening the bag of joint compound that doesn't send out a huge plume of dust every time you pour some out to mix? https://www.amazon.com/WaleTale-Vacuum-Attachment-Containment-Safety/dp/B077H5BN15 Or have someone else stand there with a hose on mist above the bag.
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Aug 20, 2020 17:16
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actionjackson posted:yeah I gotcha, I'm just going to drill some holes Yeah, or just cut a few 1/2" thick boards to the height you want the shelf to be, and tack them to the outsides of the middle space, right up against the inside of the vertical dividers.
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Aug 20, 2020 17:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Wait, you have stuff on the sides of the shelf? Goddamn, just put some of those shelf pegs in the dividers and rest the shelf on those. We had a completely different idea of what you were trying to do. yeah, sorry I should have just shown the picture first my bad so I can just remove the vertical dividers, take out the shelf, but then I still need to drill new holes for the pegs on the sides right? I'm still waiting for it to be delivered so I can take a better picture when I get it. I'm not 100% sure what holds that horizontal shelf in place in its default position. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Aug 20, 2020 |
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Aug 20, 2020 17:21
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actionjackson posted:yeah, sorry I should have just shown the picture first my bad If you're talking about removing the vertical dividers entirely, the shelf may bow downwards if you have appreciable weight on it. The lower divider doubles as a support. You will need some way to hold the shelf at your new desired height, yes. That could be pegs on the sides, or new supports you cut from some wood and paint black and then put underneath the shelf at its new height.
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Aug 20, 2020 17:26
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armorer posted:If you're talking about removing the vertical dividers entirely, the shelf may bow downwards if you have appreciable weight on it. The lower divider doubles as a support. You will need some way to hold the shelf at your new desired height, yes. That could be pegs on the sides, or new supports you cut from some wood and paint black and then put underneath the shelf at its new height. A ps4 is about 5.5 pounds. But I might just not even bother and remove the shelving completely to allow more breathing space for my receiver. This item was expensive enough where I wouldn't want to make any modifications to it outside of perhaps new holes for raising the shelf. But just because I'm curious, is there anyway to calculate how much weight a shelf of a given size supported by pegs on the end could hold? I currently have a kallax with no vertical shelf divider on the upper part to fit the receiver, and my turntable which is about 16 pounds does fine on it without causing any bowing, and the shelf is 30" wide. So I figure a 24" wide shelf holding less than half the weight should be fine. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Aug 20, 2020 |
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Aug 20, 2020 17:39
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actionjackson posted:A ps4 is about 5.5 pounds. But I might just not even bother and remove the shelving completely to allow more breathing space for my receiver. This item was expensive enough where I wouldn't want to make any modifications to it outside of perhaps new holes for raising the shelf. It totally depends on the shelf material. If it's just a few pounds it'd probably be fine. My suggestion of cutting a few 1/2" boards and rattle canning them black would allow you to do this without any modification to the unit though. Just pull the shelf, buy a few feet of 8" x 1/2" board from the hardware store, cut two pieces to the height you want the shelf, and one piece to that height minus your reciever height. Paint them black, put two on the sides, and one on top of your reciever with the shelf resting on them. Total cost of something like $10, and it would be more than sufficient.
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Aug 20, 2020 17:55
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armorer posted:It totally depends on the shelf material. If it's just a few pounds it'd probably be fine. My suggestion of cutting a few 1/2" boards and rattle canning them black would allow you to do this without any modification to the unit though. Just pull the shelf, buy a few feet of 8" x 1/2" board from the hardware store, cut two pieces to the height you want the shelf, and one piece to that height minus your reciever height. Paint them black, put two on the sides, and one on top of your reciever with the shelf resting on them. Total cost of something like $10, and it would be more than sufficient. I'm sure it's solid wood, this thing retails for $2200 (but I didn't pay anything close to that), I believe it's all walnut and oak. In case it wasn't clear, the receiver is too wide to keep the vertical dividers in. I wasn't sure if your suggestion would keep those or not.
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Aug 20, 2020 18:02
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actionjackson posted:I'm sure it's solid wood, this thing retails for $2200 (but I didn't pay anything close to that), I believe it's all walnut and oak. No I'm saying take the vertical dividers out, and cut three vertical supports of your own from some other wood. (Two may be sufficient.) Put them at the outer edges of the center space and rest the horizontal shelf on them instead of drilling holes and putting in pins.
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Aug 20, 2020 18:04
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armorer posted:No I'm saying take the vertical dividers out, and cut three vertical supports of your own from some other wood. (Two may be sufficient.) Put them at the outer edges of the center space and rest the horizontal shelf on them instead of drilling holes and putting in pins. Ah I see what you mean, thanks. I don't own any SERIOUS TOOLS but I can get someone to help me if I go that route 
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Aug 20, 2020 18:16
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actionjackson posted:Ah I see what you mean, thanks. I don't own any SERIOUS TOOLS but I can get someone to help me if I go that route Buy a hand saw for 10 bucks, it'll build character 🙂
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Aug 20, 2020 18:20
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Toebone posted:Buy a hand saw for 10 bucks, it'll build character 🙂 I have a mini hacksaw, I used it to modify my shower caddy
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Aug 20, 2020 18:36
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If it bows in the middle you can use a metal bar the same size as those pegs to go all the way across into the same holes the pegs are in. Buy a level, don't use pegboard.
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Aug 20, 2020 18:41
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H110Hawk posted:If it bows in the middle you can use a metal bar the same size as those pegs to go all the way across into the same holes the pegs are in. Buy a level, don't use pegboard. I have a level, but why would you not want to use the perforated pegboard? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKH_l8mqqrw
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Aug 20, 2020 18:54
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Just measure with a loving ruler for god's sake
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Aug 20, 2020 18:57
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The advantage of using the pegboard method as shown in the video you linked is that it lets you quickly drill dozens of holes with a precise spacing to each other. That isn't what you want to do: you want to drill 4 holes each a precise distance from the base of the cabinet. In the the time it will take you to cut down the pegboard and position it properly, you could just measure 4 times with a ruler.
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Aug 20, 2020 19:11
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ok thanks, sorry I'm terrible at this kind of stuff so I want whatever I'm least likely to gently caress up
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Aug 20, 2020 19:24
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I've started to work on refinishing my basement and pulled down the nasty old drop ceiling last night. While I discovered the usual odd things you'd expect to have fall on you while pulling out ceiling tiles (like every spare rivet they had), I found this mysterious construction: I wanted to make sure this isn't something I just haven't come across before. It sure doesn't look like it does anything. The rod doesn't penetrate the paneling at the far end and it is only 5/8ths so it isn't too meaty. My assumption is that it isn't anything that will make my kitchen fall on me. I don't know what was going on in this basement previously, because one of the breakers for the basement is labeled "PINBALL MACHINE." Any ideas?
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Aug 20, 2020 20:33
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Sash! posted:I've started to work on refinishing my basement and pulled down the nasty old drop ceiling last night. While I discovered the usual odd things you'd expect to have fall on you while pulling out ceiling tiles (like every spare rivet they had), I found this mysterious construction: That's where they hung their gently caress swing.
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Aug 20, 2020 20:34
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Pull Up Bar E: actually I change my answer ^^^^
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Aug 20, 2020 20:34
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:That's where they hung their gently caress swing. Hed posted:Pull Up Bar Need to start a new thread with a poll so we can all vote on this OP
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Aug 20, 2020 20:46
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tangy yet delightful posted:Need to start a new thread with a poll so we can all vote on this OP No reason it can't serve both purposes.
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Aug 20, 2020 20:53
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I mean, look at the shiny bit of metal a couple inches from the end. I bet the other end is the same way.
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Aug 20, 2020 21:02
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My initial thought was that it felt a little small to be a pull-up bar and it was enough to make think I should see what someone else thinks. Although now I'm going to refer to it as the sex swing mount.
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Aug 20, 2020 21:04
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I mean, look at the shiny bit of metal a couple inches from the end. I bet the other end is the same way. I thought that was the remnant of a sticker? Edit: Oh wait but I see OP says it's 5/8th, which is way too thin for a pull-up bar. I still think that looks like a sticker though.
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Aug 20, 2020 21:11
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Sash! posted:I've started to work on refinishing my basement and pulled down the nasty old drop ceiling last night. While I discovered the usual odd things you'd expect to have fall on you while pulling out ceiling tiles (like every spare rivet they had), I found this mysterious construction: God bless those people for not drilling big holes through the goddamn joists
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Aug 20, 2020 22:53
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pmchem posted:God bless those people for not drilling big holes through the goddamn joists Professional sex swing hangers they is.
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Aug 20, 2020 23:38
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That's exactly how I hung a pullup bar in the basement of my last place. The only downside is that I had to drill the pipe and put a pin into it so it wouldn't rotate. The end is probably shiny from some kind of strap or band put there.
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Aug 21, 2020 00:17
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pmchem posted:God bless those people for not drilling big holes through the goddamn joists They definitely weren't plumbers, then. (Even if, ironically this swing mount was used to lay pipe)
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Aug 21, 2020 00:20
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| # ? May 27, 2024 22:11 |
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That's exactly how I hung a sex swing in the basement of my last place. The only downside is that I had to drill the pipe and put a pin into it so it wouldn't rotate. The end is probably shiny from some kind of strap or band put there.
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Aug 21, 2020 07:01
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